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Weld on beadlock kit
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Weld on beadlock kit
How much are people paying to get their beadlock inner ring welded to their rims? it's something i'd rather not DIY, then have to stuff about with tires constantly going down.
just trying to pin down an estimate on what it'll cost to get some beadlocks (not just the cost of the weld on kit, been looking at roctoy's)
just trying to pin down an estimate on what it'll cost to get some beadlocks (not just the cost of the weld on kit, been looking at roctoy's)
Spit my last breath
Depend if you want it welded up well or just welded on. The inner ring can be welded on slightly of center, this will cause the wheel to be out balance. The ring can distort slightly causing high spots. Would also be prefable to keep the weld size even for strength and balance of wheel. The weld on rings are sometimes made up of two halves welded together, these can be pretty badly alligned sometimes. These will need to be cut and rewelded.
Yes you can just weld them on and get a reasonable result but with a little of time of care the wheel ends up fairly well balanced and less likely leak. Would consider these points before going with the cheapest quote.
Yes you can just weld them on and get a reasonable result but with a little of time of care the wheel ends up fairly well balanced and less likely leak. Would consider these points before going with the cheapest quote.
Anything is possible, it just comes down to time and money.
Ferals build www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic164570.php
Ferals build www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic164570.php
Ive seen hundreds of these leak over my years and most were done by guys that beileived It cant really be stuffed up.UNLUCKY wrote:cant really stuff it up, just keep welding till it builds up, than grind back smooth.
i normally do it for a bottle of rum, mates rates.
You should be able to weld the rings on with one continuous run and not have to grind it back at all. But if you cant weld to save your life than dont bother at all.
With a beadlock ring like Roctoys there is very little chance of ever welding them off centre thay are a one piece inner ring and cut to the same diameter as the rim. As long as the ring has been tac welded in enough places before starting to weld warping should not really be an issue. Also Who Balances mechanical beadlocks? They are not for onroad use.AFeral wrote:Depend if you want it welded up well or just welded on. The inner ring can be welded on slightly of center, this will cause the wheel to be out balance. The ring can distort slightly causing high spots. Would also be prefable to keep the weld size even for strength and balance of wheel. The weld on rings are sometimes made up of two halves welded together, these can be pretty badly alligned sometimes. These will need to be cut and rewelded.
Yes you can just weld them on and get a reasonable result but with a little of time of care the wheel ends up fairly well balanced and less likely leak. Would consider these points before going with the cheapest quote.
i have seen a few leak, but mainly due to not having a coning ring. all the ones i've done/made havn't had any drama's with the beadlock, only one rim leaked from the value hole that wasn't cleaned up before welding.RUFF wrote:Ive seen hundreds of these leak over my years and most were done by guys that beileived It cant really be stuffed up.UNLUCKY wrote:cant really stuff it up, just keep welding till it builds up, than grind back smooth.
i normally do it for a bottle of rum, mates rates.
You should be able to weld the rings on with one continuous run and not have to grind it back at all. But if you cant weld to save your life than dont bother at all.
Correct there not for road use, having ridden in a fourby with badly fitted beadlocks. Was unpleasant at 80km cruising between sections of bush. So why not fit them accuratly as possible ?RUFF wrote:With a beadlock ring like Roctoys there is very little chance of ever welding them off centre thay are a one piece inner ring and cut to the same diameter as the rim. As long as the ring has been tac welded in enough places before starting to weld warping should not really be an issue. Also Who Balances mechanical beadlocks? They are not for onroad use.AFeral wrote:Depend if you want it welded up well or just welded on. The inner ring can be welded on slightly of center, this will cause the wheel to be out balance. The ring can distort slightly causing high spots. Would also be prefable to keep the weld size even for strength and balance of wheel. The weld on rings are sometimes made up of two halves welded together, these can be pretty badly alligned sometimes. These will need to be cut and rewelded.
Yes you can just weld them on and get a reasonable result but with a little of time of care the wheel ends up fairly well balanced and less likely leak. Would consider these points before going with the cheapest quote.
Have not fitted a pair of Roctoys rings, they do look nice though.
Anything is possible, it just comes down to time and money.
Ferals build www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic164570.php
Ferals build www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic164570.php
thank you, that quote is heaps cheaper than i expected! i was budgeting around 200+ to get 4 welded on. good news.ajsr wrote:I paid a wheel works to weld my beadlocks on, they all leaked to some degee. a smear of urathane on the face fixed all the problems and they have been good since
paid $30 each to weld
now the question is, do i get the offset changed at the same time (i know it's got nothing to do with fitting the inner lock ring, but while they're at the wheel works, why not)
Spit my last breath
be careful how you are getting the offset changed because you will not be able to sucessfuly use weld on beadlocks on rims that have been flipped.bad_religion_au wrote:thank you, that quote is heaps cheaper than i expected! i was budgeting around 200+ to get 4 welded on. good news.ajsr wrote:I paid a wheel works to weld my beadlocks on, they all leaked to some degee. a smear of urathane on the face fixed all the problems and they have been good since
paid $30 each to weld
now the question is, do i get the offset changed at the same time (i know it's got nothing to do with fitting the inner lock ring, but while they're at the wheel works, why not)
Outers & Arms up stickers coming soon you hungry bitches!
http://www.myultimate4wd.com
http://www.myultimate4wd.com
GRIMACE wrote:How I miss the days of care free wheelin with the crews!
not being smart, just curious, why is that??Roctoy Designfab wrote:be careful how you are getting the offset changed because you will not be able to sucessfuly use weld on beadlocks on rims that have been flipped.bad_religion_au wrote:thank you, that quote is heaps cheaper than i expected! i was budgeting around 200+ to get 4 welded on. good news.ajsr wrote:I paid a wheel works to weld my beadlocks on, they all leaked to some degee. a smear of urathane on the face fixed all the problems and they have been good since
paid $30 each to weld
now the question is, do i get the offset changed at the same time (i know it's got nothing to do with fitting the inner lock ring, but while they're at the wheel works, why not)
without looking at a steel rim, arent 4x4 rims JJ so the same on both edges?
pretty sure the inner edge of the rim is different. i know alot of guys get their rims flipped as the inner edge (then becoming the outer) apparently holds the bead better. roctoy would know better than me tho !80's_delirious wrote:not being smart, just curious, why is that??Roctoy Designfab wrote:be careful how you are getting the offset changed because you will not be able to sucessfuly use weld on beadlocks on rims that have been flipped.bad_religion_au wrote:thank you, that quote is heaps cheaper than i expected! i was budgeting around 200+ to get 4 welded on. good news.ajsr wrote:I paid a wheel works to weld my beadlocks on, they all leaked to some degee. a smear of urathane on the face fixed all the problems and they have been good since
paid $30 each to weld
now the question is, do i get the offset changed at the same time (i know it's got nothing to do with fitting the inner lock ring, but while they're at the wheel works, why not)
without looking at a steel rim, arent 4x4 rims JJ so the same on both edges?
Spit my last breath
yep, i was going to make sure they weren't getting flipped if i was getting the offset changed.Roctoy Designfab wrote:be careful how you are getting the offset changed because you will not be able to sucessfuly use weld on beadlocks on rims that have been flipped.bad_religion_au wrote:thank you, that quote is heaps cheaper than i expected! i was budgeting around 200+ to get 4 welded on. good news.ajsr wrote:I paid a wheel works to weld my beadlocks on, they all leaked to some degee. a smear of urathane on the face fixed all the problems and they have been good since
paid $30 each to weld
now the question is, do i get the offset changed at the same time (i know it's got nothing to do with fitting the inner lock ring, but while they're at the wheel works, why not)
Spit my last breath
Steve, you can only really put weights on the inside of the rim for balancing once you've fully welded a ring to the outside.
As for why you can't really beadlock (well this way anyway) a rim that's been flipped?
Normally when you air down and lose the bead off the rim, it's on the outside edge. The surface area where the tire sits, on this side, is between 15 & 20mm wide (basically the width of the bead of the tire.)
The width of the surface area on the inside is around twice this. So you mechanically beadlock the outside to stop this from happening.
Once you flip the rims and re-weld them with the bigger offset, if you beadlock the outside of the wheel, you would be wasting your time as you will just continually drop the bead off the other side.(now on the inside of the truck)
You could just lock the inside of the wheels, but this would probably foul with the brake callipers and would just look wierd...
I hope that explained it ok.
As for why you can't really beadlock (well this way anyway) a rim that's been flipped?
Normally when you air down and lose the bead off the rim, it's on the outside edge. The surface area where the tire sits, on this side, is between 15 & 20mm wide (basically the width of the bead of the tire.)
The width of the surface area on the inside is around twice this. So you mechanically beadlock the outside to stop this from happening.
Once you flip the rims and re-weld them with the bigger offset, if you beadlock the outside of the wheel, you would be wasting your time as you will just continually drop the bead off the other side.(now on the inside of the truck)
You could just lock the inside of the wheels, but this would probably foul with the brake callipers and would just look wierd...
I hope that explained it ok.
Last edited by Roctoy on Thu Apr 29, 2010 8:07 am, edited 1 time in total.
Outers & Arms up stickers coming soon you hungry bitches!
http://www.myultimate4wd.com
http://www.myultimate4wd.com
GRIMACE wrote:How I miss the days of care free wheelin with the crews!
what about hammer on weights on the inside and stick on weights behind the beadlock on the outside ?Roctoy Designfab wrote:Steve, you can only really put weights on the inside of the rim for balancing once you've fully welded a ring to the outside.
As for why you can't really beadlock (well this way anyway) a rim that's been flipped?
Normally when you air down and lose the bead off the rim, it's on the outside edge. The surface area where the tire sits, on this side, is between 15 & 20mm wide (basically the width of the bead of the tire.)
The width of the surface area on the inside is around twice this. So you mechanically beadlock the outside to stop this from happening.
Once you flip the rims and re-weld them with the bigger offset, if you beadlock the outside of the wheel, you would be wasting your time as you will just continually drop the bead off the other side.(now on the inside of the truck)
You could just lock the inside of the wheels, but this would probably foul with the brake callipers and would just look wierd...
I hope that explained it ok.
Trying to finish the Zook
OOZUK buildup
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=80949
***KING OF BLING***
OOZUK buildup
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=80949
***KING OF BLING***
yeah there are a couple of companies in Australia selling ballancing compounds, not sure on how successful they actually are though.noodle wrote:Have a look at some of the rigs the USA guys build up. When using beadlocks they will often put a bag of ball bearings inside the tyre so that it balances itself. They claim to get good results. (not condoning reccomending this method its just something ive seen)
Cheers
Chris
Outers & Arms up stickers coming soon you hungry bitches!
http://www.myultimate4wd.com
http://www.myultimate4wd.com
GRIMACE wrote:How I miss the days of care free wheelin with the crews!
I just fitted up my Roctoy beadlocks.. they look sik.. havent driven on them as yet, but I used a bit of sika on the bead to help prevent leaks...
also my old locks, we balanced them by using stick on weights and also we put nuts on the rear of the lock bolts where more weight was required.. worked pretty good!
also my old locks, we balanced them by using stick on weights and also we put nuts on the rear of the lock bolts where more weight was required.. worked pretty good!
80 xtra cab
Supercharged LS1, Locked n shit
80 Wagon, TD Tourer, locked, Interco 35s, G turbo
Supercharged LS1, Locked n shit
80 Wagon, TD Tourer, locked, Interco 35s, G turbo
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