1st question:
Has anyone seen it done before?
2nd question:
am I pushing shit up hill attempting it?
Reasoning:
I dont want the car to be any higher than it is...but I dont want the dramas of toothpick diffs when I go for more power
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Spring Under and Bundy Diffs on a zook
Spring Under and Bundy Diffs on a zook
GZ20 Soarer - 2JZ and T78
RJ70 Bundera - Sold
SJ Sierra - 31" MT117, 2.5" Springs, Shackles, Dual Lockrites, 2" BL and much more
RJ70 Bundera - Sold
SJ Sierra - 31" MT117, 2.5" Springs, Shackles, Dual Lockrites, 2" BL and much more
Haven't seen it personally with bundy diffs but they are essentially Hilux diffs which has been done. good alternative due to the slightly narrower track, means you don't have to have crazy wide flares. 
Keep in mind Bundy diffs have a rear drag link and high pinion centre which may cause sump clearance issues. to do it your going to need to spring it over or you'll have to use Hilux knuckles to get the high steer and you'll have to extend your bump stops to stop the steering rods hitting the chassis on compression. or use 40 series cruiser steering arms and go low steer which you then run the risk of bending on rocks etc.
If your going to use Bundy diffs may as well go coils, Bundy chassis is only about 30mm wider than a zook, diffs already have the coil hats on them.
5 link the arse and use the standard front radius arms, use the bundy steering box too, then you've got power steer.
Done properly you'll have a capable rig that will handle and flex and can be registered on 33" tyres
Keep in mind Bundy diffs have a rear drag link and high pinion centre which may cause sump clearance issues. to do it your going to need to spring it over or you'll have to use Hilux knuckles to get the high steer and you'll have to extend your bump stops to stop the steering rods hitting the chassis on compression. or use 40 series cruiser steering arms and go low steer which you then run the risk of bending on rocks etc.
If your going to use Bundy diffs may as well go coils, Bundy chassis is only about 30mm wider than a zook, diffs already have the coil hats on them.
5 link the arse and use the standard front radius arms, use the bundy steering box too, then you've got power steer.
Done properly you'll have a capable rig that will handle and flex and can be registered on 33" tyres
as much as id love to keep coils it is waaayyy past my skillset...I dont want power steer as its just another thing to fuck up in the bush
id never get it registered with coils in SA either...our rules are rediculous
the 40 series cruiser arms sound good...what drag link would I use then?
The bundy one, the sierra one or a custom job?
Id also like to mention that im a povo mortgaged up homeowner so i would like to do it on the cheap
I am not scared of doing a 2" engine lift either if needed
id never get it registered with coils in SA either...our rules are rediculous
the 40 series cruiser arms sound good...what drag link would I use then?
The bundy one, the sierra one or a custom job?
Id also like to mention that im a povo mortgaged up homeowner so i would like to do it on the cheap
I am not scared of doing a 2" engine lift either if needed
GZ20 Soarer - 2JZ and T78
RJ70 Bundera - Sold
SJ Sierra - 31" MT117, 2.5" Springs, Shackles, Dual Lockrites, 2" BL and much more
RJ70 Bundera - Sold
SJ Sierra - 31" MT117, 2.5" Springs, Shackles, Dual Lockrites, 2" BL and much more
I agree with grimbo...put some chromos through your current diffs assuming you have widetrack diffs.
you are looking at under $900 shipped for front and rear chromos for WT diffs and they bolt in. Can't get any easier and will be strong enough for most engines you put in a zook.
you are looking at under $900 shipped for front and rear chromos for WT diffs and they bolt in. Can't get any easier and will be strong enough for most engines you put in a zook.
Work - KPD4X4.COM - KPD Industries Australian Distributor of Diesel Power Modules - Germany.
Play - dank's zook
Play - dank's zook
The Bundera one would go close to being right, but as it'll be the first thing you hit I'd probably contact Superior or somebody who can make one to the length you need from Cromo, or you could sleave yours with heavy walled pipe.MR 1JZ wrote:
the 40 series cruiser arms sound good...what drag link would I use then?
The bundy one, the sierra one or a custom job?
Depending one what your trying to achive in the end it may not be that cheap, if your only running 31-33" tyres the CV's may survive with a zook engine (depending on how you drive) but if you add serious power then just like the standard fare you're going to have to go Cromoly CV's or get good at changing themMR 1JZ wrote: Id also like to mention that im a povo mortgaged up homeowner so i would like to do it on the cheap
Or if it's simply width and strength your after as Grimbo said, trail tough axles/CV's and some offset rims will be the way to go.
Re: Spring Under and Bundy Diffs on a zook
MR 1JZ wrote:I dont want the car to be any higher than it is...but I dont want the dramas of toothpick diffs when I go for more power
How much power?
Wheeling on completely wicked angles, without even looking stable.
MR 1JZ wrote:I was thinking an SR20 with a t28 turbo...so around 200rwkw but I can't really entertain that idea in zook diffs
Probably a bit too much for a Sierra drivetrain if its going to be 4wdriven
Check out oozuk's build thread, he's getting aroun 140ish HP (around 110ish kW) I think it was at the wheels. He reckons its got ample go, and he still managed to kill a few bits and pieces in 2 trips out.
Just remember they are light, so power to weight ratio is achievable with somewhat less crazyness...lol. Also remember they get a bit scary at really high speed
Wheeling on completely wicked angles, without even looking stable.
webbers are only good for one thing & that's doing roast chooks & lamb...MR 1JZ wrote:Yeh I tend to go overboard with grunt on most of my car projects...will have to return to my original idea of the 8v vit motor and a weber I think
---------===== LOWRANGE JUNKIE =====---------
atari4x4 build up ~ MT/R 31's, calmini, body lift, j20a, 5.12 r&p + other stuff ~
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 6&t=162392" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
atari4x4 build up ~ MT/R 31's, calmini, body lift, j20a, 5.12 r&p + other stuff ~
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 6&t=162392" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
The SR thing has crossed my mind a couple times (I have one sitting in my shed) but then I figured it'd probably turn into another car sitting unfinished in my driveway 
75 series diffs have got the 9-1/4" centres. (leaf sprung)zook4fun wrote:what about 75 cruiser diffs, same size front as a lux and pretty sure its a bolt up or very close.
The pumpkin is way to big for a zook. and would never go in without a spring over Plus maybe 1.5 inches to clear the pumpkin.
78/79 series have got the hilux style diff but are still high pinion and are essentially the same Bundera, but with better brakes and the slightly larger 80 series CV's
All 70 series landcruisers since 1991 (the introduction of the 1HZ motor) have the smaller high pinion front diff.
Steve.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 80 guests