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jessie928 wrote:how long is a piece of string? if your trashing the "biggest uni you could get" on your fisrt real outing there is a problem somewhere...., i didnt build your rig, how should i know the best way to set it up... i know someone that snapped 3 pinions and twisted 3 shafts before he conceeded he had an axle wrap problem....
so by all means put in another DC before adressing the problem, after all, its only money :)
Gee jessie Im thankful with all the help you have given ..............
The reason i asked you how was becasue you were talkin like you know so much bout setup n as far as i can work out it was setup correctly i fitted the new shaft with DC and had the truck sittin on its sprung weight i then disconnected the upper arms and jacked pinion up till the bottom uni was in an even position wen its sits at normal ride height ..........i measured betwwen the pinion flange and flange on uni till i had the same measurement ( these measurements were taken from the top and bottom sides of the shaft ) duz this seem ok or have i actually fuked up the setup of this cause like i said it drove with no vibes .........so assume i had it corrrect .................. This had the bottom uni pointin at the bottom uni on the cardin joint this is cdorrect isnt ????
And yeah its only money .........thing is 770 bucks is afair bit of money to me obviuosly not to you
Also i did not ask for this DC by name .......i only asked the company for insight in wat had to be done ......and they recomended this as they have used em is this situation many times b4 i rocked up to there door ......................
Cheers Dan
Last edited by A1 on Tue Mar 16, 2004 1:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Wendle wrote:i've been thinking about this since you rang, and it HAS to be a suspect joint. at first I thought mwyabe it was jacking up big time under torque and binding up the fornt half of the joint against the flange, but you said it had no marks on the flange? and mine (which I am assuming is the same joint) has big marks on the flange from having the truck sitting on its belly with the back tyres hanging in the air spinning pretty hard.
Thanx mate i was thinkin the same also wen you look at the casting where it has broke there seems to be 2 different colours halfway through ......but i was unsure as i havent really taken much interest in to steel casting properties b4
But i really need to solve this prob as its a daily driva n i need to get to work (so i can use the net)
A1MAV wrote:[ ..i measured betwwen the pinion flange and flange on back top side uni....(there is a small flange round the top side of the lower top uni which is actually part of the cast of the uni)( if you are aware of nissan uni's i dont think it will sound so confusin ...i think?) till i had the same measurement ( these measurements were taken from the top and bottom sides of the shaft ) duz this seem ok or have i actually fuked up the setup of this cause like i said it drove with no vibes .........so assume i had it corrrect .................. This had the bottom uni pointin at the bottom uni on the cardin joint this is correct isnt ????
edited post to try n make it not so confusing.......
Wendle wrote:wen you look at the casting where it has broke there seems to be 2 different colours halfway through
I wonder if that is important in working out if the casting is fuct? or maybe it just changed colour under fatigue before it let go?
yeah not sure ..............
the top uni on the cardin has actually snapped 1 of the 4 sides off right next to the grease nipple (can actually see the thread on the nipple ) yet it is still in tight !.........
Ive spoken to Cheezy bout maybe doin the engine lift and 1 of his tranny crossmembers which actually raise the complete crossmember 30mm yet the tranny sits bout 30mm lower ....... by movin the mounting points .........and then run standard tail shaft .............
But
this would now entail me rollin the pinion back down to get the upper and lower unis at that 5 deg mark or so of each otha ( is that right) ...... which will also mean that i would have to move my coil perches again since rotatin em to suit the otha setup aswell as also maybe the shock mounts aswell .........great .................
Ok i have the brand not sure on spellin but its a NEACTO american brand .......spoke bout the spicer brand and was told that its the next size up from a 13/30 spicer setup the ??
HE IS GUNNA SEND IT BACK TO HIS SUPPLIER TO GET CHECKED AND C BOUT MAYBE A WARRANTY CLAIM????
Do you guys out there with similiar mods to ya shortys recognise the name as being the same as wat youse r runnin ????????
spoke bout hilux cardin he said you would prob not break it the same but the centre part would fail forshore???????
So im left still confused i will prob still raise the motor and drop the tranny to get a little bit more movement in the cardin to solve any dramas incase it duz decide to bind wen the axle is at full droop horizontal..........
this could have been mentioned b4 but since all the weight was on the rear
did the drive shaft compress to far? (slip joint compressed to far causing binding) causing the failure
how much compression does the shaft have when it is just sittin on the ground? with normall load on it
Team UNDERDOG #233
WERock Australia thanks to
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Is a limiting strap a worthwhile investment .. just to stop to much vertical dropout .. (still allow a few inches of course)
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
this is the second SWB Nissan/ Mav I've seen brake a double cardinal in the last 2 weeks, and both times under the same circumstances, and both new from the same place if this is any help Dan .
A1 I wouldn't go jumping into lifting motor's etc there is no reason it shouldn't work with the setup you have. If there are no signs of binding then I would say it is a warranty issue.Surely someone watching would have noticed if you had a weird arse pinion angle and as well there would have been binding marks on the joint. I would just wait and see what the manufacturer says. You might be panicking for nothing.
From what i believe about Castings, is that the cast will have a unifom colour throughout it as its casted in a molten liquid state, WHen casted poducts fail over time, you will ormally see two different colours, one will be darker, and one will be lighter, the lighter of the colours is the fresh breakage, the darker may have had a hairline fracture, or some other casting fault,
ozy1 wrote:From what i believe about Castings, is that the cast will have a unifom colour throughout it as its casted in a molten liquid state, WHen casted poducts fail over time, you will ormally see two different colours, one will be darker, and one will be lighter, the lighter of the colours is the fresh breakage, the darker may have had a hairline fracture, or some other casting fault,
This is just what i have been told,
Ozy with that different colour tech you have just said thats exactly how it looks 1 light and 1 dark bout half way through the DC.......????
The shaft is now back at the company ready to get the cardin chopped off and sent up to queensland where there supplier is .........
I got a few pics n will get hypo to post em up soon........
Yeah TURPS thats how i got home aswell as wheelin the broken pos down to another section to watch some action (Surfection done the same )................but i was gettin some vibes with my little 29"s on it so i decided to park it at home till repaired................
..........It drove reasonable with not so much vibe with the 37"s though ......... but really dont want to stuff a tranny bearin or seal with the vibes at speed from the shaft
For anyone interested in seeing a pic of the shaft b4 i get the othas on here there is a pic that hypoo posted in the trip n tracks section under mt sugarloaf pge9 half way down ....... cant see much but gives and idea of where it went bang...........
Wendle ive since spoken to Sam (overkill engineering) and he chased up wat brand yours was (is) and its exactly the same albeit mines farked........
Sam mentioned he has done quite a few with this setup and never had no dramas and sams driveshaft guro has only ever seen 2 fuked and that was only because of binding which mine hadnt so i musta got a dodgy cardin ...........
Thanx to Sam for chasin this up 4 me much appreciated..................
And ive since found out that i will be gettin the second cardin at a very good price .....so the driveshaft company are decent even though it had nuthin to do with there workmanship.............
I think i wont be raisin the motor although i may still drop the tranny a few mm to give betta angles and more movement b4 binding in the cardin joint
Ok i have a lead on another type of cardin that im chasin up .......
But ive spoken to the driveshaft company aswell as read some of my american mags ........and im now also chasin info on 1350 spicer (dana) cardins like where i can get info on em from wat they came out in , how much movement (degrees) they have ,can handle
Duz anyone run these in there rigs and are they farkin strong ...apparently they have bigga unis than the neapco brand i was runnin......... any info ..........
Maybe a number for spicer in melbourne are hardy and dana spicer the 1 and the same as u can tell im a novice in the tail shaft game but any info will help (i hope).........
something else i seen the other cardin joint that failed in a similiar rig this arvo .......and his didnt explode the castin like mine he only blew a uni .............?????????the casting is iron not steel to apparently
My mob no. is 0409443008 if any 1 wants to give us a bell reagrdin anything cheers
Calbah ind make a rear d/c shaft for the Shorty GQ
I'd ring them and find out what d/c they use.
Or have a look at On all 4;s web site they have some
trick looking d/c shafts, he uses one on his hydralic sprung
swb 40
hey a1 ,hardy spicer is an aussie company that sell crappy unis and danna spicer are all american made gear, apparently cbc bearings have bought out hardys here in the west but dont no about on ur side.also if his supplier is in quensland it would be driveline services they should of used a drive pro uni heaps better than a neapco, also there prices on cardan joint assembled are very good.. just mt 2cents worth..
bazooked wrote:hey a1 ,hardy spicer is an aussie company that sell crappy unis and danna spicer are all american made gear, apparently cbc bearings have bought out hardys here in the west but dont no about on ur side.also if his supplier is in quensland it would be driveline services they should of used a drive pro uni heaps better than a neapco, also there prices on cardan joint assembled are very good.. just mt 2cents worth..
Funny that you say that - I'm still sore after getting a driveshaft balanced there last week
bazooked wrote:hey a1 ,hardy spicer is an aussie company that sell crappy unis and danna spicer are all american made gear, apparently cbc bearings have bought out hardys here in the west but dont no about on ur side.also if his supplier is in quensland it would be driveline services they should of used a drive pro uni heaps better than a neapco, also there prices on cardan joint assembled are very good.. just mt 2cents worth..
So bazooked u are in the tail shaft business or wat casue your spot on with his supplier
Still gettin some info regardin a new to the market double cardin that a business in sydney are now importin from the states seems like the poo .........should have some pamphlets on it this arvo .....will let yas know how i go they apparently can run at 40deg and bout 40000ft pound of torque
i now about a few things dan i have been in the tailshaft business for near on ten years here in perth workin for a company called verriers engineering..we do lots of things.. that double cardan u are on about is that the 1 with the funky cv assembly? totally different to the old style? ..so wat r they worth?
:)
.........should have some pamphlets on it this arvo .....will let yas know how i go they apparently can run at 40deg and bout 40000ft pound of torque 