60 series big h4 globes blowing dash tail fuse

[rohan9376]

have a 60 series cruiser , fitted driving lights , also fitted 100/130 globes to h4 head lamps at the same time, ran the driving lights of the high beam wire thought that would be ok through a relay , kept blowing fuse dash tail fuse ,so i ran the driving lights straight from battery well away from orig head light loom , separate switch not of the high beam switch , well guess what still blowing the fuse , obviously the 100/130 globes are drawing to much current if i disconnect the rh head lamp wont blow the fuse , connect it boom , the relay i am using is a dual coil new era relay gt falcon , type ,5 pin , its only using one side of this relay , one side is spare , can i use the spare perhaps to hook up to maybe low beam wire ?? any suggestions ????? without doing major bypass surgery

[DamTriton]

130w at 13V = 10 amps, x2 would be a 20 amp draw, more on cold start.

40 amp fuse + relay + wiring appropriate at a minimum.

Have you accidentally wired it so both hi/lo beams are on at once?

[rohan9376]

130w at 13V = 10 amps, x2 would be a 20 amp draw, more on cold start.

40 amp fuse + relay + wiring appropriate at a minimum.

Have you accidentally wired it so both hi/lo beams are on at once?

no the wires and pluga are back to standard , tested with test llight ,,,just changed globes h4 7inch from 55./60 to 100/130 no relay

[rohan9376]

130w at 13V = 10 amps, x2 would be a 20 amp draw, more on cold start.

40 amp fuse + relay + wiring appropriate at a minimum.

Have you accidentally wired it so both hi/lo beams are on at once?

no the wires and pluga are back to standard , tested with test llight ,,,just changed globes h4 7inch from 55./60 to 100/130 no relay

note when i check low beam plugs with test light two wires live on low beam 3 wires live on hi beam , negative switched ? positive switched ?

[rumpig89]

130w at 13V = 10 amps, x2 would be a 20 amp draw, more on cold start.

40 amp fuse + relay + wiring appropriate at a minimum.

Have you accidentally wired it so both hi/lo beams are on at once?

no the wires and pluga are back to standard , tested with test llight ,,,just changed globes h4 7inch from 55./60 to 100/130 no relay

note when i check low beam plugs with test light two wires live on low beam 3 wires live on hi beam , negative switched ? positive switched ?

what do u have at the plug when lights off? I assume u are testing between neg on battery and each pin on plug?

The with 130W high beams on as someone already said you are drawing a heap of power... way to much for the standard wiring too.

The driving lights should be run off a relay that is contolled by high beam and a switch as you said u did originally. Then i would also install another relay (two circuit new era type are good) to run the headlights.

ill get on paint and sketch a quick circuit if this helps..

[rohan9376]

130w at 13V = 10 amps, x2 would be a 20 amp draw, more on cold start.

40 amp fuse + relay + wiring appropriate at a minimum.

Have you accidentally wired it so both hi/lo beams are on at once?

no the wires and pluga are back to standard , tested with test llight ,,,just changed globes h4 7inch from 55./60 to 100/130 no relay

note when i check low beam plugs with test light two wires live on low beam 3 wires live on hi beam , negative switched ? positive switched ?

what do u have at the plug when lights off? I assume u are testing between neg on battery and each pin on plug?

The with 130W high beams on as someone already said you are drawing a heap of power... way to much for the standard wiring too.

The driving lights should be run off a relay that is contolled by high beam and a switch as you said u did originally. Then i would also install another relay (two circuit new era type are good) to run the headlights.

ill get on paint and sketch a quick circuit if this helps..

what i did was have the driving lights direct to battery / and a switch on the dash / via dual coil relay new era , these lights are totally separate from the head light high beam and head lamp loom , it seems as mentioned previous in the thread that the low and high was coming on at once so on the passenger side had a better look pulling the wires out of the harness that was the case . three wires had rubbed through together , i rectified this and now not blowing any fuses on the dash light, still with the 100/130 globes inn , seams ok ,however as you said i will need to run the head lamps through a relay , working now but i am sure ill burn something long term,,, might start with some new h4 plugs for the back of head lamp , find the wires say half way up the loom for low high beam and run through another relay same new era i have here , i am tempted to cheat and just pump the high beam wire through relay ??think i will get away with that ??? thanks for reply

[rumpig89]

yeh i would splice into the headlight harness on whichever side is easiest to get at and closest to the battery you are going to be powering the lights from - prob drivers side easiest. You dont necessarily have to 'cut' the wiring out... i would just make sure nothing is ever going to short out and tape it up leaving it there.

then wire it up like in paint diagram below:



hopefully u can get the idea from it. This could be done with single relays but since u are talking about the new era style so i drew it that way - think they are the terminal numbers from memory... the new era relays also have the fuse so you will not have to put inline fuses etc in..

There is only one headlight drawn there... i would personally run the wiring from the relay to each headlight individually but this is prob overkill.

The biggest thing is to make sure the wiring from battery to relay 'B' to light and also the neg is sufficient for the size light - this is to eliminate voltage drop at the lights and get the best from your high wattage lights! 4mm should be good for these i reckon. Run a separate 4mm to each relay from the battery, rather then looping between relays, for best results.

If you run a wire in to work out lengths from relay to lights you can easily make a neat wiring harness (single wires grouped and taped, then split tubing slid over works well - rather then buying 3core) that you will never have to look at again, especially with those relays they seem to last forever.

good luck with it. sorry i just wrote this as it came to mind so perhaps doesnt make much sense. let me know if anything needs explaining...

[rohan9376]

yeh i would splice into the headlight harness on whichever side is easiest to get at and closest to the battery you are going to be powering the lights from - prob drivers side easiest. You dont necessarily have to 'cut' the wiring out... i would just make sure nothing is ever going to short out and tape it up leaving it there.

then wire it up like in paint diagram below:



hopefully u can get the idea from it. This could be done with single relays but since u are talking about the new era style so i drew it that way - think they are the terminal numbers from memory... the new era relays also have the fuse so you will not have to put inline fuses etc in..

There is only one headlight drawn there... i would personally run the wiring from the relay to each headlight individually but this is prob overkill.

The biggest thing is to make sure the wiring from battery to relay 'B' to light and also the neg is sufficient for the size light - this is to eliminate voltage drop at the lights and get the best from your high wattage lights! 4mm should be good for these i reckon. Run a separate 4mm to each relay from the battery, rather then looping between relays, for best results.

If you run a wire in to work out lengths from relay to lights you can easily make a neat wiring harness (single wires grouped and taped, then split tubing slid over works well - rather then buying 3core) that you will never have to look at again, especially with those relays they seem to last forever.

good luck with it. sorry i just wrote this as it came to mind so perhaps doesnt make much sense. let me know if anything needs explaining...

hey that makes it easy many thanks thats awesome info

[bazzle]

Just get an ARB moo2 loom for the headlights and an Moo1 for the driving.
Plug and play.

Bazzle

[rohan9376]

yeh i would splice into the headlight harness on whichever side is easiest to get at and closest to the battery you are going to be powering the lights from - prob drivers side easiest. You dont necessarily have to 'cut' the wiring out... i would just make sure nothing is ever going to short out and tape it up leaving it there.

then wire it up like in paint diagram below:



hopefully u can get the idea from it. This could be done with single relays but since u are talking about the new era style so i drew it that way - think they are the terminal numbers from memory... the new era relays also have the fuse so you will not have to put inline fuses etc in..

There is only one headlight drawn there... i would personally run the wiring from the relay to each headlight individually but this is prob overkill.

The biggest thing is to make sure the wiring from battery to relay 'B' to light and also the neg is sufficient for the size light - this is to eliminate voltage drop at the lights and get the best from your high wattage lights! 4mm should be good for these i reckon. Run a separate 4mm to each relay from the battery, rather then looping between relays, for best results.

If you run a wire in to work out lengths from relay to lights you can easily make a neat wiring harness (single wires grouped and taped, then split tubing slid over works well - rather then buying 3core) that you will never have to look at again, especially with those relays they seem to last forever.

good luck with it. sorry i just wrote this as it came to mind so perhaps doesnt make much sense. let me know if anything needs explaining...

hey that makes it easy many thanks thats awesome info

a follow up question to anyone that can help,,, finnaly motivated to finish the job , ordered some ceramic h4 globe holders via ebay , now with the ignition turned off there is no power to head lamps , turn ignition on no power to head lamps , turn lights on low beam both bottom plugs have power high beam on of course top one goes on , do i have negative switched or positive switched headlamps i thought one of these wires on the headlight plug would be earth ??? seems 2 wires have power from the plug give low beam does negative switching mean like handbrake switch. wiper motor etc always power there ??? any help appreciate