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part time 4wd conversion kit
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
part time 4wd conversion kit
considering doing this to my 80. what are the pros and cons. i am travelling to brisbane end of june so was going to look for 1. what are the best brands to get.
Your model 80 will need to have the difflock button for it to work. Or you will have to install 1 yourself (post 91). Marks adapter do the viscous differential. Comes with instructions and is pretty easy to install. Basic hand tools and a tension wrench. You can get a kit with viscous and hubs and spacer. But hubs are AVM's. Geniune toyota aisin ones are the best. If your 80 is post 94 you will need to use the axle spacer aswell.
Pro's and cons are. Fuel eco is the same. The front feels a bit loser (lighter steering). And no more wear and tear on the front diff and axles. Once you rebuild your diff and change your cv's and axle they will stay new for aaaages as they dont spin anymore unless your offroad. Which is 1 of the 80 series main bad points being full time 4x4 from factory. Also eliminates any noises and vibrations caused from the front.
Pro's and cons are. Fuel eco is the same. The front feels a bit loser (lighter steering). And no more wear and tear on the front diff and axles. Once you rebuild your diff and change your cv's and axle they will stay new for aaaages as they dont spin anymore unless your offroad. Which is 1 of the 80 series main bad points being full time 4x4 from factory. Also eliminates any noises and vibrations caused from the front.
i have a 93 as well and put a marks adaptor kit in mine cost 530 for full kit hubs and everything. Id agree with the big boy. No fuel savings and lighter / looser steering a rtc steering dampner might be a fix for this?
Ended up putting this in myself and it took me 6 hours just for box as i have no experience doing transfers. Instructions supplied were pretty good and you will need the spacers which if you get the hubs with the kit are included.
2 helpfull tips take your time there are wires that run on top of transfer and love to fall in i took mine apart 3 times because of this and use plenty of the black instant gasket and let it cure overnight before adding oil.
Drive it straight away and it will more than likely develop leaks like mine has
Ended up putting this in myself and it took me 6 hours just for box as i have no experience doing transfers. Instructions supplied were pretty good and you will need the spacers which if you get the hubs with the kit are included.
2 helpfull tips take your time there are wires that run on top of transfer and love to fall in i took mine apart 3 times because of this and use plenty of the black instant gasket and let it cure overnight before adding oil.
Drive it straight away and it will more than likely develop leaks like mine has
sounds like u used crap sealant, i always just fit mine straight up then fill it up, diffs, geabox's and what not.. never had leaks...howsie wrote:
Drive it straight away and it will more than likely develop leaks like mine has
If your doing it for fuel savings, then its probably not worth it.
If your doing it cos u break cv's and want to be able to put it in 2wd easily or you are trying to get rid of drive line vib's then its worth it.... or ya may just wanna do skids
80 xtra cab
Supercharged LS1, Locked n shit
80 Wagon, TD Tourer, locked, Interco 35s, G turbo
Supercharged LS1, Locked n shit
80 Wagon, TD Tourer, locked, Interco 35s, G turbo
then go for it, mine was done mainly so the front driveshaft stopped grinding when backing off. (spline was worn and car is lifted 5 inches).
Oh and yeah tyres last heaps longer obviously depending on what im doing offroad. 4 wheel burnouts on rocks dont help but with 31's atm its not too expensive.
Sometime soon i will take it apart again and redo it all with about double the amount of gasket goop than i used last time, or maybe just making sure its a good coverage of gasket goop might be better as too much will probably end up in transfer.
Oh and yeah tyres last heaps longer obviously depending on what im doing offroad. 4 wheel burnouts on rocks dont help but with 31's atm its not too expensive.
no was good sealant but it is possible i didn't get a good spread as mentioned i took it apart a few times to get wires and suck out that had fallen in.sounds like u used crap sealant, i always just fit mine straight up then fill it up, diffs, gearbox's and what not.. never had leaks...
If your doing it for fuel savings, then its probably not worth it.
If your doing it cos u break cv's and want to be able to put it in 2wd easily or you are trying to get rid of drive line vib's then its worth it.... or ya may just wanna do skids Twisted Evil
Sometime soon i will take it apart again and redo it all with about double the amount of gasket goop than i used last time, or maybe just making sure its a good coverage of gasket goop might be better as too much will probably end up in transfer.
Defiately worth the effort did mine 18 months ago and did find a little better fuel consumption but would take a lot of driving to see the benifits! If you buy the Marks kit or the similar one's that use AVM hubs sell the hubs off while they are new and get genuine Toyota ones as I have replaced two so far and there's is nothing worse than trying to replace a hub half way up a hill!!!
the AVM hubs are known to be shit... BUT i ran 38's with lockers for 5 years and i didnt break a hub until i put the V8 in.....firestonecruiser wrote:cheers guys sounds like the hubs are shit, would it be better to get kit without hubs and buy the genuine toyota onesa seperately
if ya after some yoto ones, then solid axle hilux ones will fit.. if its the pre 94? with the shorter CV stub they will go straight on... if its the later model with the longer CV stub then u will need to cut 5mm off the end of the cv and machine a new ring around the end of the stub (can do it easy with a grinder)
80 xtra cab
Supercharged LS1, Locked n shit
80 Wagon, TD Tourer, locked, Interco 35s, G turbo
Supercharged LS1, Locked n shit
80 Wagon, TD Tourer, locked, Interco 35s, G turbo
A few mates have had a part time kit installed.
One had the avm hubs, did both hubs hub on a hill when the front lifted and landed. He has since fitted genuine from wreckers and haven't had a problem. The other had a kit from 4wdrive systems with a copy of genuine hubs, they don't seem the same sort of quality as the real ones but will find out with time.
Both mates said the best thing was the reduced backlash and lighter steering. A lot easier to drive around town and you can now do skids. No real fuel economy gains.
One had the avm hubs, did both hubs hub on a hill when the front lifted and landed. He has since fitted genuine from wreckers and haven't had a problem. The other had a kit from 4wdrive systems with a copy of genuine hubs, they don't seem the same sort of quality as the real ones but will find out with time.
Both mates said the best thing was the reduced backlash and lighter steering. A lot easier to drive around town and you can now do skids. No real fuel economy gains.
according to there web page another switch has to be installed to activate 4wdin high range. in the f&q section the centre diff lock button is used, press this engage hubs in put in low range, next question says another switch to be installed to get 4wd in high range doesnt make sense to me so may have to wait till i get over there and talk to them. who stocks them in the ipswich area of brisbane.
Shouldnt need any aditional switches, it should work exactly the same as standard, only difference being High 2wd instead of Constant 4wd.crankycruiser wrote:doesnt make any sence to me at all..
i know u have to put a CDL switch in if u dont have one, but thats the only time that i can think of that u would need to put another switch in
Only thing your statement raises is, if you dont have a Centre Diff Lock switch standard, you most likely dont need one as it would engage mechanically standard. Therefor not having an electric actuator.
I dont think any of the constant 4wd's are mechanically operated to select between Constant 4wd(or 2wd) and high range 4. Only between High Range and Low Range.
MaccA
Maybe their web page is a bit vague. If you have a CDL switch then that is all you need. Isn't it just the viscous centre diff models which are the ones mostly with ABS that require the switch as they don't have one.
Mine is simple being a 90 model with standard CDL switch.
CDL switch off = transfer shifter to engage 2WD hi or 2WD low.
CDL switch on = transfer shifter to engage 4WD hi or 4WD low (after locking hubs of course)
Mine is simple being a 90 model with standard CDL switch.
CDL switch off = transfer shifter to engage 2WD hi or 2WD low.
CDL switch on = transfer shifter to engage 4WD hi or 4WD low (after locking hubs of course)
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