deisel kill switch

Post by **Articulator** » Mon May 10, 2010 10:43 pm

can anybody tell me how to wire up a kill switch on a sd33 mq patrol. According to ccda specs it must kill everything on comp truck.
cheers

Post by **GeeC** » Tue May 11, 2010 11:16 pm

If you are talking about killing everything, does that mean you want a battery disconnect switch?

Post by **Articulator** » Thu May 13, 2010 9:59 am

thats right have got earth running through kill switch with ignition on turn switch off kills everything when motor running does not

Post by **GeeC** » Thu May 13, 2010 12:54 pm

I see your problem now - the alternator is still in circuit supplying power.
You need to break that as well, or at least power to the fuel stop solenoid.

Maybe you need the switch between the battery positive and all the other wiring that is connected there, exept for the cable from the alternator, which should continue to go directly to the battery.

Post by **macca81** » Thu May 13, 2010 2:58 pm

sd33 is totally mechanical, to kill it you either need to stop the fuel or the air... to kill the fuel you need to do that mechanically, with the actuator on the drivers side of the engine, just behind the injector pump. there is a rod attached to an arm on a fist sized squareish thingy, the arm needs to be pulled back to the firewall...

hard to describe, im going on by memory from my old MQ, ill see if i can find a pic....

Post by **Articulator** » Thu May 13, 2010 10:44 pm

have cut all 7 wires to the injector pump control unit 1 at a time with engine running and kill switch turned off but it still runs even with 7 cut wires

Post by **GeeC** » Fri May 14, 2010 8:23 am

If the fuel stop is mechanical as macca81 said, the only way I can see you doing it, is to install an electrical solenoid valve in the fuel line to the pump.
If you ran the negative from the solenoid valve directly to the battery negative terminal (ie not to the chassis), then you should be able to leave the battery disconnect in the negative as it is.
Take the solenoid positive supply from an ignition fuse.

Post by **mickyd555** » Sat May 15, 2010 6:43 am

Articulator wrote:have cut all 7 wires to the injector pump control unit 1 at a time with engine running and kill switch turned off but it still runs even with 7 cut wires

typical nissan - unstoppable

Post by **macca81** » Wed May 19, 2010 10:36 pm

GeeC wrote:If the fuel stop is mechanical as macca81 said, the only way I can see you doing it, is to install an electrical solenoid valve in the fuel line to the pump.
If you ran the negative from the solenoid valve directly to the battery negative terminal (ie not to the chassis), then you should be able to leave the battery disconnect in the negative as it is.
Take the solenoid positive supply from an ignition fuse.

yup, a normally-closed solenoid on the fuel line, so that when it has power it is open and when power is cut it shuts off the fuel and thus kills the engine.

Post by **Articulator** » Wed May 19, 2010 10:48 pm

hey guys. stupid question.if you put a fuel cut solenoid in wouldnt the motor keep running until it ran out of fuel.

Post by **GeeC** » Wed May 19, 2010 11:16 pm

To stop a diesel engine, you have to stop the fuel (air ir diesel).

Apparently you currently have a mechanical fuel stop.
It sounds like you need an electric one.

On a TD42, the fuel stop solenoid is integrated in the back of the pump.

Post by **bigoll** » Fri May 21, 2010 8:15 am

having the same trouble with my truck (td42). i have the isolator switch on the earth side of battery and thought i could shut power to main fuel pump solinoid via a relay but it turns out i am energizing the whole car when switching the isolator off. can this be the same fault getting back feed through shut off solinoid, can a diode be used to stop this?

Post by **GeeC** » Fri May 21, 2010 10:59 am

I'd be guessing that with the isolating switch in the battery negative, you are only isolating the battery.
The alternator is still providing power.

Articulator (OP) had said that his switch in the battery negative killed everything, so I was hoping that an electric solenoid run from the ignition circuit would also be de-energised, but it now doesn't look like it.

So, I think you will have to;
1. Relocate the isolating switch to the battery positive, but arranged so that the alternator is still connected to the battery and everything else is run from the switch, or
2. Use a dual gang switch, in the current postion, with the additional contacts in the circuit to the fuel stop solenoid.

Post by **bigoll** » Fri May 21, 2010 2:40 pm

hi GeeC, i have done as was suggested in coment 1, after trying the diode(didn't work) moved the isolator to positive side charge wire to battery all other electrics to othe side of isolator and it works a treat shuts down on key and isolator. cheers

Post by **gudge** » Sun May 23, 2010 1:58 pm

Got an idea from a mate today. If I had a 2pole isolater could I switch the earth on one set of terminals and run the ignition wire from the key barrel through the other set of terminals?

Post by **the_king** » Wed Jul 07, 2010 4:50 pm

I put a switch with an inline fuse straight into the fusebox to a fuse labeled somthing along the lines of engine(?)
It kills the car straight up as i discovered going through freshwater track when I put my foot through the wiring lol.
I don't know if this would work on yours or not. Mines a 1hz Cruiser.

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