Here was the outcome
http://neuralfibre.com/paul/reviews/easy-trailer-review
No - it wont' carry your 4wd, but it will carry the parts
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
Paul
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Sounds like more trouble than it's worth...me3@neuralfibre.com wrote: *The jockey wheel they supply didn’t do what I wanted, so I sourced a lightweight folding one locally from Repco.
*The lights supplied are conventional bulb types. I threw them in the bin and bought better sealed LED lights from eBay.
*I fitted a set of low profile LED clearance lights
*The wiring supplied uses the trailer as an earth – a likely problem spot. As such I used some of my own wire to run a full earth,
*The trailer comes in lots of bits, with a lot of bolts. Plan on 4-6 hours to assemble it for a first time user.
*The studs on the hubs weren’t drilled particularly square,
*I added an extra brace for the spare wheel to stop it twisting when stood on. I also added a swing up Jockey wheel and extra tie down points.
Explains a lot.me3@neuralfibre.com wrote: *I like the price.
See that's the angle I got from some of the trailer companies. "More steel is good".mhgill wrote:Agreed. "they dont make em like they used to"bigbluemav wrote:I bought mine 2nd hand. I reckon that's the BEST way to buy trailers.
That thing you bought looks a toy. sorry.
His expectations were not high to start with. He was only replacing an XF falcon ute. Its got be be at least better than that.want33s wrote:Sounds like more trouble than it's worth...me3@neuralfibre.com wrote: *The jockey wheel they supply didn’t do what I wanted, so I sourced a lightweight folding one locally from Repco.
*The lights supplied are conventional bulb types. I threw them in the bin and bought better sealed LED lights from eBay.
*I fitted a set of low profile LED clearance lights
*The wiring supplied uses the trailer as an earth – a likely problem spot. As such I used some of my own wire to run a full earth,
*The trailer comes in lots of bits, with a lot of bolts. Plan on 4-6 hours to assemble it for a first time user.
*The studs on the hubs weren’t drilled particularly square,
*I added an extra brace for the spare wheel to stop it twisting when stood on. I also added a swing up Jockey wheel and extra tie down points.
true but the reduced kilos in trailer weight doesn't mean you can just up the payload. the trailer and axles still have to support it all yes... I think the trailer looks good. it wouldn't be bad if made as a 4x4 trailer too.me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:See that's the angle I got from some of the trailer companies. "More steel is good".mhgill wrote:Agreed. "they dont make em like they used to"bigbluemav wrote:I bought mine 2nd hand. I reckon that's the BEST way to buy trailers.
That thing you bought looks a toy. sorry.
It's interesting that trucking companies are using alloy wheels to save weight, so they can increase payload.
To me, weight is everything. Flexible, lightweight is far better than rigid and heavy. Some manufacturers get it, others don't. If 750kg is the max, then its the max. I already have a 3200kg registered dual axle trailer.
The only other reason people like heavy is that it handles corrosion better. Personally, I would prefer to put a protection in it so it doesn't corrode, rather than carry 200+ kg of steel on the hope that it be thick enough the rust won't matter. Every kg off the trailer is a kg I can add to the payload.
So when it comes to making parts for the cruiser, the same logic applies. Is this lightweight and flexible, like the chassis. Will is have good fatigue resistance, does it flex evenly etc.
Paul
If weight is everything why on earth did you buy a hunjy?me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:See that's the angle I got from some of the trailer companies. "More steel is good".mhgill wrote:Agreed. "they dont make em like they used to"bigbluemav wrote:I bought mine 2nd hand. I reckon that's the BEST way to buy trailers.
That thing you bought looks a toy. sorry.
It's interesting that trucking companies are using alloy wheels to save weight, so they can increase payload.
To me, weight is everything. Flexible, lightweight is far better than rigid and heavy. Some manufacturers get it, others don't. If 750kg is the max, then its the max. I already have a 3200kg registered dual axle trailer.
The only other reason people like heavy is that it handles corrosion better. Personally, I would prefer to put a protection in it so it doesn't corrode, rather than carry 200+ kg of steel on the hope that it be thick enough the rust won't matter. Every kg off the trailer is a kg I can add to the payload.
So when it comes to making parts for the cruiser, the same logic applies. Is this lightweight and flexible, like the chassis. Will is have good fatigue resistance, does it flex evenly etc.
Paul
Cheaper and lighter is a couple of those push bike safety flags you can get from toy stores. Mount on a spring and hinge system one on each corner. I always threatened to do this to myself before the days of reverse cameras or I used to stand up in the seat and look back to pick up the eges of the tailgate.I’ll need a reversing camera to see the thing.
Have you ever lifted a 10 stud alloy then a 10 stud steel disc wheel...??? Alloy is for aesthetics, they are heavier than steel...me3@neuralfibre.com wrote: It's interesting that trucking companies are using alloy wheels to save weight, so they can increase payload.
yeah .. but you only need 1Bluefreak wrote:Have you ever lifted a 10 stud alloy then a 10 stud steel disc wheel...??? Alloy is for aesthetics, they are heavier than steel...me3@neuralfibre.com wrote: It's interesting that trucking companies are using alloy wheels to save weight, so they can increase payload.
?? in a standard set up you need per side per axle per axle unless you are running super singles but they are rare and I cant remember ever seeing alloys in a super single set up...... and of course the steer axle but they are far narrower than a super single rimlove_mud wrote:yeah .. but you only need 1Bluefreak wrote:Have you ever lifted a 10 stud alloy then a 10 stud steel disc wheel...??? Alloy is for aesthetics, they are heavier than steel...me3@neuralfibre.com wrote: It's interesting that trucking companies are using alloy wheels to save weight, so they can increase payload.
super singles ( from my very limited experiance) almost always run alloys ..Tiny wrote:?? in a standard set up you need per side per axle per axle unless you are running super singles but they are rare and I cant remember ever seeing alloys in a super single set up...... and of course the steer axle but they are far narrower than a super single rimlove_mud wrote:yeah .. but you only need 1Bluefreak wrote:Have you ever lifted a 10 stud alloy then a 10 stud steel disc wheel...??? Alloy is for aesthetics, they are heavier than steel...me3@neuralfibre.com wrote: It's interesting that trucking companies are using alloy wheels to save weight, so they can increase payload.
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