Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
contactor on 3 phase drill press
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
contactor on 3 phase drill press
ok the 3 phase drill i was selling is now stuffed!
fell over and smashed the old contactor
i baught a new contactor but although been told its right for this drill it looks different and im no sparky
any one clued up on how to wire em up?
cheers in advance
fell over and smashed the old contactor
i baught a new contactor but although been told its right for this drill it looks different and im no sparky
any one clued up on how to wire em up?
cheers in advance
[color=lime][b]Im not a gyno but ill take a look at it for you![/b][/color]
You will have your red white blue incoming, and your red white blue outgoing.
These will go through the contactor on the three large terminals, usually marked L1 L2 L3 or something similar.
Doesn't matter if the power in goes into the top or bottom.
Also, you will find a small terminal probably marked A1 and A2, this is the control for the contactor.
Tell me what cables you have left and I may be able to help, but unless you are 473% sure you have it right, get a sparkie to do it.
Send it up to me and I'll fix it for you...
and keep it!
These will go through the contactor on the three large terminals, usually marked L1 L2 L3 or something similar.
Doesn't matter if the power in goes into the top or bottom.
Also, you will find a small terminal probably marked A1 and A2, this is the control for the contactor.
Tell me what cables you have left and I may be able to help, but unless you are 473% sure you have it right, get a sparkie to do it.
Send it up to me and I'll fix it for you...
and keep it!
I am a sparky
Can you tell me the issue of them looking different? Could just be the newer one is smaller.
They should both have, hopefully, a label on them that outline current rating of the contact sets so the new one should match the rating or better and have 3 normally open contact sets.
If you do not know how to wire it then please do not try as I would hate to see you injure yourself or damage your property/equipment.
A pic would be helpful.
Can you tell me the issue of them looking different? Could just be the newer one is smaller.
They should both have, hopefully, a label on them that outline current rating of the contact sets so the new one should match the rating or better and have 3 normally open contact sets.
If you do not know how to wire it then please do not try as I would hate to see you injure yourself or damage your property/equipment.
A pic would be helpful.
watch for the control voltages - some are 24v, some 240 and some 415
there is NO (normally open) and NC (normally closed).
415v is not worth playing with unless you are sure.
chers bru
there is NO (normally open) and NC (normally closed).
415v is not worth playing with unless you are sure.
chers bru
ADHD Racing would like to thank
Mrs Bru @ Sunshine Coast Developmental Physiotherapy - www.scdphysio.com.au , Ryano @ Fourbys www.generaltire.com.au Blitzkrieg Motorsport
Mrs Bru @ Sunshine Coast Developmental Physiotherapy - www.scdphysio.com.au , Ryano @ Fourbys www.generaltire.com.au Blitzkrieg Motorsport
24v switch fed with 240v would be lethal, but if you want to wire it up in that way, feel free to do the world a favour.Tojo wrote:and what difference does that make? absolutely zero difference!bru21 wrote:watch for the control voltages - some are 24v, some 240 and some 415
there is NO (normally open) and NC (normally closed).
415v is not worth playing with unless you are sure.
chers bru
Do you have any electrical knowledge/qualifications?
I am a also radio tradesman with a good amount of high power RF experience (5-50kW TV/radio transmitters) and even I wouldn't stuff around with high power electricals. It is a job for a sparkie. It has to be done right.
George Carlin, an American Comedian said; "Think of how stupid the average person is, and realise that half of them are stupider than that".
Sorry I spoke.Tojo wrote:and what difference does that make? absolutely zero difference!bru21 wrote:watch for the control voltages - some are 24v, some 240 and some 415
there is NO (normally open) and NC (normally closed).
415v is not worth playing with unless you are sure.
chers bru
ADHD Racing would like to thank
Mrs Bru @ Sunshine Coast Developmental Physiotherapy - www.scdphysio.com.au , Ryano @ Fourbys www.generaltire.com.au Blitzkrieg Motorsport
Mrs Bru @ Sunshine Coast Developmental Physiotherapy - www.scdphysio.com.au , Ryano @ Fourbys www.generaltire.com.au Blitzkrieg Motorsport
Care to explain why? I may have missed something over the last 12 years...Tojo wrote:and what difference does that make? absolutely zero difference!bru21 wrote:watch for the control voltages - some are 24v, some 240 and some 415
there is NO (normally open) and NC (normally closed).
415v is not worth playing with unless you are sure.
chers bru
Coil control voltage will depend upon what supply lead is provided, and what power socket ie, 4 pin or 5 pin.
IE. 5 core cable offering a Neutral connection can uterlize a 240Volt control coil.
IE. a 4 core cable offering no neutral will require a 415 volt control coil.
Standard type 3 phase contactors have 4 pole NO ( normally open contacts) L1,L2,L3 and 1 Auxillary contact.
The auxillary NO contact provides a hold in latch for when the start button is pushed and released, without the latching contact the drill would stop the momment the button is released.
A easier option is a 3 pole switch with built in thermal over load, that will have a adjustable Amps range to suit your drills motor full load current.
No need to worry about coil control wiring.
Most 3 phase tools use this type of motor control.
Smaller and less wiring needed.
Grant ( industrial electrician)
IE. 5 core cable offering a Neutral connection can uterlize a 240Volt control coil.
IE. a 4 core cable offering no neutral will require a 415 volt control coil.
Standard type 3 phase contactors have 4 pole NO ( normally open contacts) L1,L2,L3 and 1 Auxillary contact.
The auxillary NO contact provides a hold in latch for when the start button is pushed and released, without the latching contact the drill would stop the momment the button is released.
A easier option is a 3 pole switch with built in thermal over load, that will have a adjustable Amps range to suit your drills motor full load current.
No need to worry about coil control wiring.
Most 3 phase tools use this type of motor control.
Smaller and less wiring needed.
Grant ( industrial electrician)
GU III TD42T UFI18G Cross Country IC, 20 PSI. Neeeeeed mooooore Fueeeeeel.
think i miss took the intent of bru's post. My reply was based on his last line. To me there is zero difference between 240V or 415V when it comes to safety. Each will kill you just as easy if you make a mistake. Maybe i should have just statedlump_a_charcoal wrote:Care to explain why? I may have missed something over the last 12 years...Tojo wrote:and what difference does that make? absolutely zero difference!bru21 wrote:watch for the control voltages - some are 24v, some 240 and some 415
there is NO (normally open) and NC (normally closed).
415v is not worth playing with unless you are sure.
chers bru
"electricity is not worth playing with unless you are sure"
Anyway as familybus has said it's all sorted now!
yeah but if you can't wire 240v you sure as hell can't wire 415v.
As far as I know you can wire plug in devices - like the plug itself on 240v (even buy them at coles etc) legally without being a sparky.
240v is generally protected with RCD's and normally won't kill you whereas 415 isn't protected and will kill you. Bad wiring will generally blow a fuse / breaker etc on 240 and cause no harm to person. 415 can blow contactors across the room, cause plasma melts and 3rd degree burns etc
so yes there is a big difference.
and no you shouldn't throw stones in glass houses, swim in lightening storms or eat pork that hasn't been cooked.
As far as I know you can wire plug in devices - like the plug itself on 240v (even buy them at coles etc) legally without being a sparky.
240v is generally protected with RCD's and normally won't kill you whereas 415 isn't protected and will kill you. Bad wiring will generally blow a fuse / breaker etc on 240 and cause no harm to person. 415 can blow contactors across the room, cause plasma melts and 3rd degree burns etc
so yes there is a big difference.
and no you shouldn't throw stones in glass houses, swim in lightening storms or eat pork that hasn't been cooked.
ADHD Racing would like to thank
Mrs Bru @ Sunshine Coast Developmental Physiotherapy - www.scdphysio.com.au , Ryano @ Fourbys www.generaltire.com.au Blitzkrieg Motorsport
Mrs Bru @ Sunshine Coast Developmental Physiotherapy - www.scdphysio.com.au , Ryano @ Fourbys www.generaltire.com.au Blitzkrieg Motorsport
When I was working in Queensland I needed a Class 1 (restricted) electrical license to do "plug and cord" work - which included replacing the plug on a 240V device.bru21 wrote:As far as I know you can wire plug in devices - like the plug itself on 240v (even buy them at coles etc) legally without being a sparky.
Maybe the regulations have been relaxed? I'd be surprised...
Just because you can buy plugs and whatnot, doesn't mean that you can legally wire them up. Anyone can rock in and buy power outlets, but can't legally install them. At the very least one needs a restricted electrical licence to even look at and repair electrical items. Installation and anything above extra low voltage (50 volts AC or 110 volts DC) definitely requires a qualified electrician.
You do not need any electrical licence to replace a single phase plugtop in WA. Will post up regs when I find them, this info is about 3 years old so may have changed since then. Other states may be different.
Anyone can wire and install power/lights as they want. It becomes illegal if it gets livened up by an unlicenced person. Nothing stopping you wiring your own shed and getting a sparky to liven it up. As long as all tests are performed and the tests are ok and certified, that is all that is needed.
In saying that, I wouldn't put my licence on anyone else's work, I even test other sparky's work that is going on my compliance certificate.
Anyone can wire and install power/lights as they want. It becomes illegal if it gets livened up by an unlicenced person. Nothing stopping you wiring your own shed and getting a sparky to liven it up. As long as all tests are performed and the tests are ok and certified, that is all that is needed.
In saying that, I wouldn't put my licence on anyone else's work, I even test other sparky's work that is going on my compliance certificate.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 66 guests