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contactor on 3 phase drill press

General Tech Talk

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contactor on 3 phase drill press

Post by familybus »

ok the 3 phase drill i was selling is now stuffed!
fell over and smashed the old contactor

i baught a new contactor but although been told its right for this drill it looks different and im no sparky

any one clued up on how to wire em up?

cheers in advance
[color=lime][b]Im not a gyno but ill take a look at it for you![/b][/color]
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Post by rubykanubi »

Get an electrician to it.
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Post by Bartso »

agreed get a sparky, it is simple enough to do but if not done right you could be in trouble
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Post by krusty182 »

post up some good pics of the two contactors and we should be able to work it out.
---> insert witty remark here <---
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Post by hiluxmad »

3 phase = get a sparky
my 2c
too much risk for my liking
Keep it shiny side up!
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Post by lump_a_charcoal »

You will have your red white blue incoming, and your red white blue outgoing.

These will go through the contactor on the three large terminals, usually marked L1 L2 L3 or something similar.

Doesn't matter if the power in goes into the top or bottom.

Also, you will find a small terminal probably marked A1 and A2, this is the control for the contactor.

Tell me what cables you have left and I may be able to help, but unless you are 473% sure you have it right, get a sparkie to do it.

Send it up to me and I'll fix it for you...


































and keep it!
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Post by familybus »

lump_a_charcoal wrote: Send it up to me and I'll fix it for you...





and keep it!
no probs for a delivery fee of $450 :D
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Post by hj 45 »

A simple job, but get an electrician, there's a reason why we're licensed to do this stuff.
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Post by cooki_monsta »

hj 45 wrote:A simple job, but get an electrician, there's a reason why we're licensed to do this stuff.
Agreed! Simple once you know what yourdoing
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Post by Havabigjuan »

I am a sparky

Can you tell me the issue of them looking different? Could just be the newer one is smaller.

They should both have, hopefully, a label on them that outline current rating of the contact sets so the new one should match the rating or better and have 3 normally open contact sets.

If you do not know how to wire it then please do not try as I would hate to see you injure yourself or damage your property/equipment.

A pic would be helpful.
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Post by bru21 »

watch for the control voltages - some are 24v, some 240 and some 415

there is NO (normally open) and NC (normally closed).

415v is not worth playing with unless you are sure.

chers bru
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Post by Tojo »

bru21 wrote:watch for the control voltages - some are 24v, some 240 and some 415

there is NO (normally open) and NC (normally closed).

415v is not worth playing with unless you are sure.

chers bru
and what difference does that make? absolutely zero difference!
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Post by DamTriton »

Tojo wrote:
bru21 wrote:watch for the control voltages - some are 24v, some 240 and some 415

there is NO (normally open) and NC (normally closed).

415v is not worth playing with unless you are sure.

chers bru
and what difference does that make? absolutely zero difference!
24v switch fed with 240v would be lethal, but if you want to wire it up in that way, feel free to do the world a favour. :roll: :?

Do you have any electrical knowledge/qualifications?

I am a also radio tradesman with a good amount of high power RF experience (5-50kW TV/radio transmitters) and even I wouldn't stuff around with high power electricals. It is a job for a sparkie. It has to be done right.
George Carlin, an American Comedian said; "Think of how stupid the average person is, and realise that half of them are stupider than that".
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Post by familybus »

its all good i booked a sparky for next week to sort it out! cheers every one ;)
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Post by lump_a_charcoal »

Is it easily portable?

If you can, bring it out to Cranebrook on monday sometime and I could do it for you (unless it is hard wired)...
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Post by bru21 »

Tojo wrote:
bru21 wrote:watch for the control voltages - some are 24v, some 240 and some 415

there is NO (normally open) and NC (normally closed).

415v is not worth playing with unless you are sure.

chers bru
and what difference does that make? absolutely zero difference!
Sorry I spoke.
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Post by lump_a_charcoal »

Tojo wrote:
bru21 wrote:watch for the control voltages - some are 24v, some 240 and some 415

there is NO (normally open) and NC (normally closed).

415v is not worth playing with unless you are sure.

chers bru
and what difference does that make? absolutely zero difference!
Care to explain why? I may have missed something over the last 12 years...
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Post by GUEEY »

Coil control voltage will depend upon what supply lead is provided, and what power socket ie, 4 pin or 5 pin.
IE. 5 core cable offering a Neutral connection can uterlize a 240Volt control coil.
IE. a 4 core cable offering no neutral will require a 415 volt control coil.
Standard type 3 phase contactors have 4 pole NO ( normally open contacts) L1,L2,L3 and 1 Auxillary contact.
The auxillary NO contact provides a hold in latch for when the start button is pushed and released, without the latching contact the drill would stop the momment the button is released.

A easier option is a 3 pole switch with built in thermal over load, that will have a adjustable Amps range to suit your drills motor full load current.
No need to worry about coil control wiring.
Most 3 phase tools use this type of motor control.
Smaller and less wiring needed.

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Post by Tojo »

lump_a_charcoal wrote:
Tojo wrote:
bru21 wrote:watch for the control voltages - some are 24v, some 240 and some 415

there is NO (normally open) and NC (normally closed).

415v is not worth playing with unless you are sure.

chers bru
and what difference does that make? absolutely zero difference!
Care to explain why? I may have missed something over the last 12 years...
think i miss took the intent of bru's post. My reply was based on his last line. To me there is zero difference between 240V or 415V when it comes to safety. Each will kill you just as easy if you make a mistake. Maybe i should have just stated

"electricity is not worth playing with unless you are sure"

Anyway as familybus has said it's all sorted now!
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Post by bru21 »

yeah but if you can't wire 240v you sure as hell can't wire 415v.

As far as I know you can wire plug in devices - like the plug itself on 240v (even buy them at coles etc) legally without being a sparky.

240v is generally protected with RCD's and normally won't kill you whereas 415 isn't protected and will kill you. Bad wiring will generally blow a fuse / breaker etc on 240 and cause no harm to person. 415 can blow contactors across the room, cause plasma melts and 3rd degree burns etc

so yes there is a big difference.


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Post by -Scott- »

bru21 wrote:As far as I know you can wire plug in devices - like the plug itself on 240v (even buy them at coles etc) legally without being a sparky.
When I was working in Queensland I needed a Class 1 (restricted) electrical license to do "plug and cord" work - which included replacing the plug on a 240V device.

Maybe the regulations have been relaxed? I'd be surprised...
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Post by lump_a_charcoal »

Don't think they have changed - If it is electrical work, you need a sparkie. Simple.
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Post by hj 45 »

Just because you can buy plugs and whatnot, doesn't mean that you can legally wire them up. Anyone can rock in and buy power outlets, but can't legally install them. At the very least one needs a restricted electrical licence to even look at and repair electrical items. Installation and anything above extra low voltage (50 volts AC or 110 volts DC) definitely requires a qualified electrician.
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Post by bru21 »

Ok - I'm wrong. It is generallly assumed though. Don't know many folk that haven't wired up their own plugs etc
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Post by nabstud »

You do not need any electrical licence to replace a single phase plugtop in WA. Will post up regs when I find them, this info is about 3 years old so may have changed since then. Other states may be different.

Anyone can wire and install power/lights as they want. It becomes illegal if it gets livened up by an unlicenced person. Nothing stopping you wiring your own shed and getting a sparky to liven it up. As long as all tests are performed and the tests are ok and certified, that is all that is needed.

In saying that, I wouldn't put my licence on anyone else's work, I even test other sparky's work that is going on my compliance certificate.
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