Mate just brought an old fj45 ute to do up as a hunting rig. its got the H series 3.6L diesel with the 4 speed box.
How strong were the H series motors? And I was wondering if the later model 5 speed box would mate up to the existing H series motor and transfer case. Also the speedo needle waves all over the place when driving, is this just fixed with a new speedo cable?
Is there any other common problems or issues i should be looking to sort out?
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Old fj45 questions
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
I had one of these for a short period.. Good motor for farm/hunting duties etc.
Speedo needle wiggle is a common 40 series thing. No biggie really. My speedo cable broke completely and I had no speedo at all... Replaced with new cable ($25 ebay jobbie) but this didn't help with the wiggle.
By the way, you're mate has a HJ45 not a FJ45, as it has the H diesel engine. The FJ45 has a petrol F or 2F engine.
Speedo needle wiggle is a common 40 series thing. No biggie really. My speedo cable broke completely and I had no speedo at all... Replaced with new cable ($25 ebay jobbie) but this didn't help with the wiggle.
By the way, you're mate has a HJ45 not a FJ45, as it has the H diesel engine. The FJ45 has a petrol F or 2F engine.
indubitably
rebuild the dash cluster is the way to stop the wobble. H motor sucks balls. 3 heads and 2 head gaskets in 4 years here, oh, and an injector pump, pump diaphram, and a few other expensive fixes... normally road driven, not heavily loaded, cooling system was all less than 12 months old, and working perfectly...
Spit my last breath
hmmm sounds like the H series donk is getting the flick. whats the usual engine to replace it? keeping in mind i want no electronics and want to keep the cost down.
Ill look into rebuilding the gauge cluster and also get a new cable for the speedo, Cant hurt and its only 30 bucks.
Still looking for a no bs answer to what 5speed will mate up to the new engine, let say if i replace it with a 2h diesel. Which i probs will end up getting.
Ill look into rebuilding the gauge cluster and also get a new cable for the speedo, Cant hurt and its only 30 bucks.
Still looking for a no bs answer to what 5speed will mate up to the new engine, let say if i replace it with a 2h diesel. Which i probs will end up getting.
oh yeah, forgot about your 5 speed question during my rant.Silver_pig_gq wrote:hmmm sounds like the H series donk is getting the flick. whats the usual engine to replace it? keeping in mind i want no electronics and want to keep the cost down.
Ill look into rebuilding the gauge cluster and also get a new cable for the speedo, Cant hurt and its only 30 bucks.
Still looking for a no bs answer to what 5speed will mate up to the new engine, let say if i replace it with a 2h diesel. Which i probs will end up getting.
any 5 speed from a 6 cylinder 40/60 early 75 series will bolt up.
you'll need to shorten the rear driveshaft, and lengthen the front.
Spit my last breath
would u not have dramas with the 5 speed to the h motor as gearbox mounts are different, h 4 speed is mounted on the side of bellhousing and 2h box has a x member under the middle of the box
you would be better off geting a rusty hj47 with a good 2h and swapping it all over
any early 5 speed will fit, shorten rear shaft, lenghten front and move hole in tunnell cover
best 5 speed is from a late 40x with handvrake on transfer save dramas
if not get backing plates from 75x/60x and swap to rear handbrake
most 75x parts will swap over
you would be better off geting a rusty hj47 with a good 2h and swapping it all over
any early 5 speed will fit, shorten rear shaft, lenghten front and move hole in tunnell cover
best 5 speed is from a late 40x with handvrake on transfer save dramas
if not get backing plates from 75x/60x and swap to rear handbrake
most 75x parts will swap over
Isnt the round crossmember behind the transfer going to be an issue in mounting the 5 speed in an earlier 45?
The 5 speeds are roughly 75mm longer than the 4 speed, well the 4spds out of the later 45 series anyway.
Not too familiar about earlier ones setup sorry. But you should be able to get the gearbox crossmember and make it fit fairly easy. Get one out of a later 40/45 series so you have the correct chassis width, and either a 4 speed or 5 speed as they are the same as each other.
As said before, 60 series 5spds have the gear stick roughly 75mm further backwards on the selector rail than that of the 40 series. 40s are a bit harder to find though.
Is it going to be registered or just stay on private property?
MaccA
The 5 speeds are roughly 75mm longer than the 4 speed, well the 4spds out of the later 45 series anyway.
Not too familiar about earlier ones setup sorry. But you should be able to get the gearbox crossmember and make it fit fairly easy. Get one out of a later 40/45 series so you have the correct chassis width, and either a 4 speed or 5 speed as they are the same as each other.
As said before, 60 series 5spds have the gear stick roughly 75mm further backwards on the selector rail than that of the 40 series. 40s are a bit harder to find though.
Is it going to be registered or just stay on private property?
MaccA
Im going to try and get it road registered. At the moment im thinking just fix it up enough to get a roadie with the original motor and box and once its on the road start mucking round with fixing it up.
Ive also read somewhere that instead of going to a 5speed box you can just put a set of 33inch tyres on the 4 speed. claims to drop revs by 500rpm in 4th hence reving close or lower then the 5 speed box in 5th. is this a myth? ive got a set of 33's in the shed, if its as easy as that ill put em on straight after the roadie and not even worry about the box change.
Anyone buy any chance wanna help my fix the indicators? there not work atm and when i turn parkers on the left indicator indicator thing on the dash comes (and stays) on but it dosent signal left!
Gotta love wiring in old cars, ive just about had enough....my last beast was a range rover lol
Ive also read somewhere that instead of going to a 5speed box you can just put a set of 33inch tyres on the 4 speed. claims to drop revs by 500rpm in 4th hence reving close or lower then the 5 speed box in 5th. is this a myth? ive got a set of 33's in the shed, if its as easy as that ill put em on straight after the roadie and not even worry about the box change.
Anyone buy any chance wanna help my fix the indicators? there not work atm and when i turn parkers on the left indicator indicator thing on the dash comes (and stays) on but it dosent signal left!
Gotta love wiring in old cars, ive just about had enough....my last beast was a range rover lol
Resident Terrorist
Definately get it roadied as is and mess with it later. Try the 33s before you consider the 5 speed swap since you have them. I reckon the 5 speed swap is a little over rated personally for the effort....Silver_pig_gq wrote:ive got a set of 33's in the shed, if its as easy as that ill put em on straight after the roadie and not even worry about the box change.
for what its worth, i've recently put a 5 speed in my shorty.
i had 33's and 35's on behind the 4 speed and both were okay and it cruised 'economically' at around 85-90 on the speedo, approx 100km/h. with the 5 speed though and 33's, 100 on the dial (approx 110-115km/h) and it'll still have a little bit left to pass cars easily at 110.
the 5 speed gave the old girl a breath of life and much more pleasurable to drive, as i can actually communicate with passenger now instead of screaming over 4000rpm.
with my conversion, i didn't worry about the crossmember underneath the gearbox, and instead used the original mounts on the side of the bellhousing. i figured that one gear (5th) and the extra length of the box maybe 75-100mm shouldn't be THAT excessively heavy. and the crossmember only mounted under the box a few inches back from the bellhousing mounts...so far i haven't had an issue and i didn't have to modify the chassis by drilling, cutting or welding...which is what'll get a car unstuck on roadworthy or by the fuzz.
as for the choice of 5 speed to choose...i'd go (as i've found out during another 5 speed conversion) a PRE 1990 75 series box if you can't find an orginal 40 one.
the reason being is that the location on the selector through the 'top' of the gearbox is a little futher forward than in the 60 series 5 speed (in turn resulting in less cutting of the gearbox tunnel).
the 40/60/75 5 speed's are all the same gearboxes, just the 'top' is different to suit each model (3 different types).
the post 1990 75 series gearbox has a smaller flange on the front than the rear, which is posing problems for me at the moment, so just be aware that there is something to look for. to overcome this, i'm going to use the slip yoke out of the 75 matched with my orignal tailshaft (as the splines are the same)
and the crossmember in the chassis behind the transfer isn't a problem with my 2f/5 speed combination. i wouldn't think a h or 2h block would be any longer or sit further back, as there's a firewall in the way. the crossmember is close, but nowhere near going to touch the gearbox/transfer. it will be an issue if you need to take the gearbox out while leaving the engine in, (i don't think you can even do this because of how the bellhousing/flywheel etc is configured), but i personally don't think it's a great deal more work in pulling the whole engine/box out as one, rather than having heavy things above your head loose on a hoist (such as a gearbox for example).
Tim
i had 33's and 35's on behind the 4 speed and both were okay and it cruised 'economically' at around 85-90 on the speedo, approx 100km/h. with the 5 speed though and 33's, 100 on the dial (approx 110-115km/h) and it'll still have a little bit left to pass cars easily at 110.
the 5 speed gave the old girl a breath of life and much more pleasurable to drive, as i can actually communicate with passenger now instead of screaming over 4000rpm.
with my conversion, i didn't worry about the crossmember underneath the gearbox, and instead used the original mounts on the side of the bellhousing. i figured that one gear (5th) and the extra length of the box maybe 75-100mm shouldn't be THAT excessively heavy. and the crossmember only mounted under the box a few inches back from the bellhousing mounts...so far i haven't had an issue and i didn't have to modify the chassis by drilling, cutting or welding...which is what'll get a car unstuck on roadworthy or by the fuzz.
as for the choice of 5 speed to choose...i'd go (as i've found out during another 5 speed conversion) a PRE 1990 75 series box if you can't find an orginal 40 one.
the reason being is that the location on the selector through the 'top' of the gearbox is a little futher forward than in the 60 series 5 speed (in turn resulting in less cutting of the gearbox tunnel).
the 40/60/75 5 speed's are all the same gearboxes, just the 'top' is different to suit each model (3 different types).
the post 1990 75 series gearbox has a smaller flange on the front than the rear, which is posing problems for me at the moment, so just be aware that there is something to look for. to overcome this, i'm going to use the slip yoke out of the 75 matched with my orignal tailshaft (as the splines are the same)
and the crossmember in the chassis behind the transfer isn't a problem with my 2f/5 speed combination. i wouldn't think a h or 2h block would be any longer or sit further back, as there's a firewall in the way. the crossmember is close, but nowhere near going to touch the gearbox/transfer. it will be an issue if you need to take the gearbox out while leaving the engine in, (i don't think you can even do this because of how the bellhousing/flywheel etc is configured), but i personally don't think it's a great deal more work in pulling the whole engine/box out as one, rather than having heavy things above your head loose on a hoist (such as a gearbox for example).
Tim
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 64 guests