Hey everyone,
i have a 3.2 V6 Petrol Holden rodeo and its got 160 000 kms on the clock and ive read somewhere before that its due for the timing belt to be changed.
for your average joe im not bad with my hands, ill do fan belts, filters, alternators, free wheeling hubs, anything inside doors or dash, fuel pumps etc but im a bit of a virgin to engine work.
with a gergories manual would it be too hard to change the timing belt? is there anything else i should change at the same time? or am i better off paying the cash and getting someone to do it?
Thanks for all your help.
James
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Holden Rodeo 3.2 V6 Petrol Timing betl
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Holden Rodeo 3.2 V6 Petrol Timing betl
Last edited by nethergate on Thu Jun 10, 2010 8:56 am, edited 1 time in total.
tyres arent floaties
belt
yeah get in there and do it i say. you will find that if u want to change the
coolant at the same time pull the radiator out that will give u more room to work ,and u can see stuff better and give it a clean while its out. when its apart check the ideler pullys by spinning them and listening for exesive noise, and water pump for leaks. and have look at the cam and crank seals for leaking oil. and you can get a kit from the parts shop that has the belt and pullys in it, if yours are crook. now the new belt shoud have yellow lines that line up with the cam pullys. just make shure the cams dont move. the crank will stay put just watch the top end. the tensioner is hydrolic, when u remove it it will go to its full lenth and u need a vice to push it back slowley and put a small alen key or similer through it,cheak its not leaking oil too. when its all back togeather turn it over by hand to make shure it dont bind up. and away u go.
your greg book will probley say all this and more so iv wasted my time but hope this helps and i know i cant spell but u can deal wiyh that.
coolant at the same time pull the radiator out that will give u more room to work ,and u can see stuff better and give it a clean while its out. when its apart check the ideler pullys by spinning them and listening for exesive noise, and water pump for leaks. and have look at the cam and crank seals for leaking oil. and you can get a kit from the parts shop that has the belt and pullys in it, if yours are crook. now the new belt shoud have yellow lines that line up with the cam pullys. just make shure the cams dont move. the crank will stay put just watch the top end. the tensioner is hydrolic, when u remove it it will go to its full lenth and u need a vice to push it back slowley and put a small alen key or similer through it,cheak its not leaking oil too. when its all back togeather turn it over by hand to make shure it dont bind up. and away u go.
your greg book will probley say all this and more so iv wasted my time but hope this helps and i know i cant spell but u can deal wiyh that.
nah you havent wasted your time as i wont buy the book if i dont get the guts to try it, ive read around a few threads and got advice off a few people and everyone has said its do-able so im waiting for a week where i dont need to drive to work friday and monday so if i can get a start on it friday night and then if i cant get it going ill tow it to the mechanic and he can finish it monday.
Thanks for all the advice man, im hoping the more i get the guts to try things the more and more ill learn, just a bit dicy being my daily driver.
Thanks for all the advice man, im hoping the more i get the guts to try things the more and more ill learn, just a bit dicy being my daily driver.
tyres arent floaties
just do it
yeah good on ya mate i think you will be right.
good idear giveing your self a long weekend to do it just incace it all gos
pear shaped but.
good idear giveing your self a long weekend to do it just incace it all gos
pear shaped but.
Re:
Arr it's the 3.2 now not the 3.6...nethergate wrote:sorry dude i dont think so
Go hard or go home!!!
MU build here
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