Hi fellas, just want to know if theres any defender drivers out there running a 2.5-3 inch coil lift and no castor bushes. ive justed fitted 2 inch coils and going to add a 1 inch spacer. got a set of sam's bushes and want to definatley use these in stead of castor bushes. at the moment with the new coils the ride and handiling is awesome.
My Questions are, and I have used the search menu!
Are you using longer front shocks, if so any vibrations or problems with the front drive shaft when under flex? Would i need a doulble cardin front? ( I noticed while fitting the front coils that the font drive shaft (transfer case end) was binding at full droop and sam's bushes aren't even in yet.
Is the series 2 double cardin front a straight bolt up into the defender?
do the front arms have to be cranked, or is rotating the swivel hubs enough?
have you kicked the rear shock mount if so, by how much and by what method? ( have seen a pic of the rangie spare kicker but not sure how thick the material is )
any other findings/ ideas would be great.
Cheers Drew.
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Defender Questions?
Moderator: Micka
Defender Questions?
MOVE OVER, HERE COMES ROVER!!!
I have 90mm spacers, and will soon go to 100mm+ springs and loose the spacers. The UJ at the transfer case was binding, so I installed a Disco double cardon shaft. Just a bolt on, but you need the new drive flange.
I am so far happy with the caster without any form of correction. Atm I have drilled bushes in the front, and will install Sam's as soon as the snow melts. Currently stock shocks sitting on the spacers, have 14" travel Bilstein 7100 remote resevoir ready to go in. 12" variety of the same shock installed in the rear with custom mounts. I have restricted uptravel w 90mm in rear and slightly less in front. Runs on SuperSwamper Q78's (35.5 x 10.8 true) on Wolfs and with 39mm spacers each side.
Rear will get OME 981's as per Erez' recommendation. Equipe bent and reinforced trailing arms on their way.
Full Maxi lockers, shafts, CV's and flanges. Remember to get longer brake lines!
I am so far happy with the caster without any form of correction. Atm I have drilled bushes in the front, and will install Sam's as soon as the snow melts. Currently stock shocks sitting on the spacers, have 14" travel Bilstein 7100 remote resevoir ready to go in. 12" variety of the same shock installed in the rear with custom mounts. I have restricted uptravel w 90mm in rear and slightly less in front. Runs on SuperSwamper Q78's (35.5 x 10.8 true) on Wolfs and with 39mm spacers each side.
Rear will get OME 981's as per Erez' recommendation. Equipe bent and reinforced trailing arms on their way.
Full Maxi lockers, shafts, CV's and flanges. Remember to get longer brake lines!
Rangerover 4.6 HSE '96
Still stockish, but with plans
Defender 110 CSW Td5 '01
Full exo cage, all MDE axles, on 9.00x16 Michelins
Still stockish, but with plans
Defender 110 CSW Td5 '01
Full exo cage, all MDE axles, on 9.00x16 Michelins
Cheers fellas, yeah it drives like a dreem at the moment castor not a problem at all but i haven't added the coil spacers yet so will see how it goes, just a little worried about that binding thing! so whats a disco front shaft and new drive flange worth, any one know where to get one in brisbane?
Hey wilsby, they sound like some BIG ASS spacers you got there!!
Drew.
Hey wilsby, they sound like some BIG ASS spacers you got there!!
Drew.
MOVE OVER, HERE COMES ROVER!!!
German aluminum spacers bought from Bronco in the UK. You bolt them to existing studs with special nuts, and use new studs in the spacers to fit the wheels. 33 mm thick spacers, plus 6mm cheapos that I just put on the bolts.
Rangerover 4.6 HSE '96
Still stockish, but with plans
Defender 110 CSW Td5 '01
Full exo cage, all MDE axles, on 9.00x16 Michelins
Still stockish, but with plans
Defender 110 CSW Td5 '01
Full exo cage, all MDE axles, on 9.00x16 Michelins
wilsby wrote:Runs on SuperSwamper Q78's (35.5 x 10.8 true) on Wolfs and with 39mm spacers each side.
Rear will get OME 981's as per Erez' recommendation. Equipe bent and reinforced trailing arms on their way.
Full Maxi lockers, shafts, CV's and flanges. Remember to get longer brake lines!
Dude, i think we need some pics!!!
110 Tuff - I am looking at similar mods for my defender. Its a 90 with stock suspension, alloys with 235/85's.
Everything I read tells me that the handling on and off road is improved greatly with an OME kit but my biggest concern is chewing out driveshafts/uni's.
I dont want to fit massive rubber and am happy just stepping up to 255/85s.
Anyone done the basic 2" lift springs and shocks [ARB] and ghad priobs with vibrations/uni's?
Can I just get these tyres and add to current set up? ANyone with a 90 or 110 running the 2" lift or 255's would be great to hear from you.
Thks!
Everything I read tells me that the handling on and off road is improved greatly with an OME kit but my biggest concern is chewing out driveshafts/uni's.
I dont want to fit massive rubber and am happy just stepping up to 255/85s.
Anyone done the basic 2" lift springs and shocks [ARB] and ghad priobs with vibrations/uni's?
Can I just get these tyres and add to current set up? ANyone with a 90 or 110 running the 2" lift or 255's would be great to hear from you.
Thks!
2008 Disco 3 TDV6
2003 Defender 90
1988 Rangie Hiline
1985 Rangie 4.2
2003 Defender 90
1988 Rangie Hiline
1985 Rangie 4.2
TRying to upload a pic for the first time.....now the second.....
Last edited by def-90 on Sun Mar 21, 2004 12:55 am, edited 1 time in total.
2008 Disco 3 TDV6
2003 Defender 90
1988 Rangie Hiline
1985 Rangie 4.2
2003 Defender 90
1988 Rangie Hiline
1985 Rangie 4.2
good to see yet another defender has joined the forum. ive just done my springs 2 inch over standard. i used a cross country brand spring ( aka King springs ) i run 235 x 85's on disco rims. the ride improvement is tremendous and it drives realy well. i didn't use castor corection bushes as they rob cross axle flex and instead have gone for a set of Strange rovers Hoely Bushes.
At present i have no problems with uni's etc. I am about to fit longer front 80 series toy OME shocks for more travel on the front. When i was measuring my droop and disconecting the front shocks i noticed that on full droop the front drive shaft seemed to be binding at the transfer case end. so im still looking in to a disco series 2 double cardin front replacement.
My father has the same truck as mine but runs 255 x 75 on disco rims. they work fine apart from some minor rubbing on the front radius arms. He runs stock suspension on his truck.
If you don't want any more travel on the front, just stick with the 2 inch lift and bigger tyres.
drew.
At present i have no problems with uni's etc. I am about to fit longer front 80 series toy OME shocks for more travel on the front. When i was measuring my droop and disconecting the front shocks i noticed that on full droop the front drive shaft seemed to be binding at the transfer case end. so im still looking in to a disco series 2 double cardin front replacement.
My father has the same truck as mine but runs 255 x 75 on disco rims. they work fine apart from some minor rubbing on the front radius arms. He runs stock suspension on his truck.
If you don't want any more travel on the front, just stick with the 2 inch lift and bigger tyres.
drew.
MOVE OVER, HERE COMES ROVER!!!
G'day def-90.
Most nearly all of this has been covered in previous threads, but yep, running 255/85/16's with Rangie Spares 'purple' springs which are 17" free length (mine actually measured 17.2"), 220lb/in springs in the front, (2" longer than stock, which are 14.8-15.2" free length, 225lb/in)
This gave me 50mm actual increase in clearance between the bump stops.
Removed the anti-roll bars, fitted 80 Series 'Cruiser Koni's.
No drive shaft vibes, no castor correction, although one day when the front end is apart I will slot and rotate the swivel housings to fix it. Maybe. If I get time.
Doing this fixes the 'dragster' look of a stock 130.
Rick.
Most nearly all of this has been covered in previous threads, but yep, running 255/85/16's with Rangie Spares 'purple' springs which are 17" free length (mine actually measured 17.2"), 220lb/in springs in the front, (2" longer than stock, which are 14.8-15.2" free length, 225lb/in)
This gave me 50mm actual increase in clearance between the bump stops.
Removed the anti-roll bars, fitted 80 Series 'Cruiser Koni's.
No drive shaft vibes, no castor correction, although one day when the front end is apart I will slot and rotate the swivel housings to fix it. Maybe. If I get time.
Doing this fixes the 'dragster' look of a stock 130.
Rick.
Hi guys,
With a standard 2" lift such as OME/ToughDog/etc. there is no need for castor correction and no need for a CV joint in the front drive shaft.
When the articulation is larger than the 2" you will need a CV joint otherwise you'll get a lot of wear on the U joint.
I distinguish between the lift and the articulation. Nowadays there are kits that with the same lift give you a much larger articulation and with those you WILL need to change the U joint to a CV joint.
With 2" lift there is no problem using 255/85/16 - if this is the target then you don't need to lift the truck higher.
At the moment I have 2.5" Heibach coil springs in the front + 1.5" spacer and 10" shocks. I have stock bushings and it still gives good travel. I'm planning on changing to 14" shocks outside the spring with Sam's slotted bushes.
In the rear in my softtop 110 I have OME 980 which give me a full 4" lift. I changed the upper and lower mounts completely and I have 14" fox shocks with a reservoir. Inside the springs I installed cones.
def-90 - you can go with the complete OME setup, they are very comfortable, the truck will not vibrate, but you will not get more articulation than stock suspensions.
Erez
With a standard 2" lift such as OME/ToughDog/etc. there is no need for castor correction and no need for a CV joint in the front drive shaft.
When the articulation is larger than the 2" you will need a CV joint otherwise you'll get a lot of wear on the U joint.
I distinguish between the lift and the articulation. Nowadays there are kits that with the same lift give you a much larger articulation and with those you WILL need to change the U joint to a CV joint.
With 2" lift there is no problem using 255/85/16 - if this is the target then you don't need to lift the truck higher.
At the moment I have 2.5" Heibach coil springs in the front + 1.5" spacer and 10" shocks. I have stock bushings and it still gives good travel. I'm planning on changing to 14" shocks outside the spring with Sam's slotted bushes.
In the rear in my softtop 110 I have OME 980 which give me a full 4" lift. I changed the upper and lower mounts completely and I have 14" fox shocks with a reservoir. Inside the springs I installed cones.
def-90 - you can go with the complete OME setup, they are very comfortable, the truck will not vibrate, but you will not get more articulation than stock suspensions.
Erez
No..... it's not a jeep
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