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reduction gears

Tech Talk for Nissan owners.

Moderators: toaddog, V8Patrol

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reduction gears

Post by jacka »

Is there a crawler gear kit available for the 3.0 GU patrol. If so approx how much does it cost?
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Post by ozy1 »

im pretty sure all the GU transfers are the same, if not similar, try
Yeah, there are kits avaliable,

try:
http://www.macquarie4x4.com.au/
http://www.overkill4x4.com/
http://www.mannellmotors.com.au/
http://www.cheezyracing.com.au/
http://www.marks4wd.com/index.html
http://www.bigballsoffroad.com/
http://www.rockhopper.com.au

and heaps of others
they will all be able to organise this for you!
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Post by bazzle »

About $1300 plus fitting etc from the above..........
Ring and ask........

Bazzle :P
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Post by roly »

I've had my rockhopper for over 15 months


makes it a totally different truck offroad

however sometimes i wish i had a dual setup as it only does 25kmh on the limiter in 4th which is too slow for touring
08 340kw HSV Maloo 6.2L
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Post by turps »

roly wrote:I've had my rockhopper for over 15 months


makes it a totally different truck offroad

however sometimes i wish i had a dual setup as it only does 25kmh on the limiter in 4th which is too slow for touring


Hows that go for wheel speed in a bog hole are other boggy situation where you need good wheel speed to clear the tyres. Is it fast enough for most situations??

Turps
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Post by bazzle »

Then I use 1st or 2nd high

Bazzle
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Transfer gears

Post by davejb »

Turps I've had similar thougths to you about that. I think for a lot of the Vic. muddy areas a reduction somewhere between standard and the current aftermarket ratios would be ideal. There are times when you would like one gear lower than 1st Low.

Dave
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Post by turps »

bazzle wrote:Then I use 1st or 2nd high

Bazzle


Problem is I dont have the instant power at the moment to get first gear spining properly. Thats why I had to winch yesterday going thru the bogs on Vic Range.
Might just get the 4.6's and a turbo and then think about it. Mind you could of used them on 'the steps' where the ledge got me, car just wasnt slow enough in 1st low with 35's and 4.1's to get the car moving.
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Post by sparky »

turps wrote:
bazzle wrote:Then I use 1st or 2nd high

Bazzle


Problem is I dont have the instant power at the moment to get first gear spining properly. Thats why I had to winch yesterday going thru the bogs on Vic Range.
Might just get the 4.6's and a turbo and then think about it. Mind you could of used them on 'the steps' where the ledge got me, car just wasnt slow enough in 1st low with 35's and 4.1's to get the car moving.


if you had another 300kw you still wouldn't have got through that bog hole carl
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Post by GUJohnno »

turps wrote:
bazzle wrote:Then I use 1st or 2nd high

Bazzle


Problem is I dont have the instant power at the moment to get first gear spining properly. Thats why I had to winch yesterday going thru the bogs on Vic Range.
Might just get the 4.6's and a turbo and then think about it. Mind you could of used them on 'the steps' where the ledge got me, car just wasnt slow enough in 1st low with 35's and 4.1's to get the car moving.

Same here. I got up tho. On the TD-6 the diff ratio's are 3.9's so gearing is totaly stuffed with the 35's.
How much is the fitting of the gears??
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Post by bogged »

I dont think rockhoppers are the winner...

You lose your normal low range which is handy...
change the 3.9's to 4.3s.
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Post by roly »

bogged wrote:I dont think rockhoppers are the winner...

You lose your normal low range which is handy...
change the 3.9's to 4.3s.


well i run 4.375 bruce, thats factory ratio on a 3.0

anything else on high range and with 35's means i wont get my 180kmh ish speeds :(
08 340kw HSV Maloo 6.2L
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Melbourne Again
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Post by roly »

turps wrote:
roly wrote:I've had my rockhopper for over 15 months


makes it a totally different truck offroad

however sometimes i wish i had a dual setup as it only does 25kmh on the limiter in 4th which is too slow for touring


Hows that go for wheel speed in a bog hole are other boggy situation where you need good wheel speed to clear the tyres. Is it fast enough for most situations??

Turps


its more for when travelling and you need LR for a section and then you need to stop to change into HR for a bit and then back to LR

dont get me wrong, i wouldnt swap the rockhopper for quids, even with the dtronic and a 3" i'm pushing 140kw and 420+nm and still need LR grunt
08 340kw HSV Maloo 6.2L
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Melbourne Again
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Post by turps »

sparky wrote:
turps wrote:
bazzle wrote:Then I use 1st or 2nd high

Bazzle


Problem is I dont have the instant power at the moment to get first gear spining properly. Thats why I had to winch yesterday going thru the bogs on Vic Range.
Might just get the 4.6's and a turbo and then think about it. Mind you could of used them on 'the steps' where the ledge got me, car just wasnt slow enough in 1st low with 35's and 4.1's to get the car moving.


if you had another 300kw you still wouldn't have got through that bog hole carl


This may be true but it would have been much more fun to watch.
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Post by ozy1 »

My old man has the Rockhopper in his 2.8L Turbo GU, and before off road it was shit, now its a fucking weapon, cause even in boost your still going werry slow, if i had the money id have it in my TD42 GQ anyday,
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Post by bogged »

ozy1 wrote:My old man has the Rockhopper in his 2.8L Turbo GU, and before off road it was shit, now its a ***** weapon, cause even in boost your still going werry slow, if i had the money id have it in my TD42 GQ anyday,


I just think twin cases would be better, you have normal low, and then LOW LOW..

YMMV
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Post by M&M Custom Engineerin »

twin cases require driveshaft mods, crossmember mods etc etc, something alot people overlook.
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Post by Butt Craic »

M&M Custom Engineering wrote:twin cases require driveshaft mods, crossmember mods etc etc, something alot people overlook.


Also transmission tunnel modifications, the cost of the second transfer case on top of the cost of the adapter . . . .

True the twin cases is a good option (considering it for my ute at the moment to overcome exactly the compromises that everyone is talking about) but it works out at somewhere between 2 and 3 times the cost of just sticking in the reduction gears.
I'm not very good looking, so I guess I better be useful . . .
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Post by bogged »

M&M Custom Engineering wrote:twin cases require driveshaft mods, crossmember mods etc etc, something alot people overlook.



knew about the shaft mods, didnt about cross member, but obvious when someone mentions it.

how would LWB go with twin case, would it become like a short wheelbase with issues and viabrations.. :cry:
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Post by turps »

bogged wrote:
M&M Custom Engineering wrote:twin cases require driveshaft mods, crossmember mods etc etc, something alot people overlook.



knew about the shaft mods, didnt about cross member, but obvious when someone mentions it.

how would LWB go with twin case, would it become like a short wheelbase with issues and viabrations.. :cry:


It shouldnt make a big differance as with the extra case it is only about 9" longer (not 100% - but no doubt someone will clear it up). Where as a SWB is about 93" wb and a LWB is about 118" or somthing similar so the rear shaft is still long enough, to not get stupid angles where you have to stuff around with cardin joints etc.
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Post by duncan »

Im running 35s and have just put 4.6s in its great i have my low range back to stock set up but now i want to go 38s if i put in low range gears how is it going to effect my being able to spin the 38s to clean them only running a stock 4.2 diesal with extractors but want low range for rocks
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Post by Butt Craic »

38's, 4.6s and standard low range on the rocks is not a great combo - I am with that setup now and say a quick prayer for my clutch every time I head out at the moment.

You should still have no problems spinning tyres with the reduction gears in, you would just be doing it in 3rd, 4th or 5th instead of 1st or second.

Not sure, but wouldn't have thought that you would have enough power to spin 38's in high 1st or 2nd which is the other option.
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Post by duncan »

What suspension and body lift are you running have you trimed the guards and what rims are you running at the momment im running a 4inch suspension lift 3 1/2 body lift and have trimmed both the front and rear pannels running standard 15x8 rims with beadlocks just want to no what im up for once i fit the tyres .Have already told the wife im getting gears straight away to make it driveable of road
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Post by Butt Craic »

7" of spring lift and 2" of body lift on a GU ute. There's 3-4"s chopped out of the rear of the front guards and about 4 hours on the heat gun to stretch the factory flares over the enlarged guards.

There is no rubbing on the rear as the tray was designed to accomodate with 38.5 x 11 Boggers - they actually tuck up between the chassis rails and the tray at full flex.

The Boggers are on custom offset 16 x 8 rims with internal beadlocks. I can't remeber what the offset was . . . I found someone else's that worked and just got a set made up to match.

I have run 42" Swampers and probably need to extend the bumpstops a little further to restrict some of the up travel. As soon as I've paid for a new set of road tyres, the Boggers will be going and I'm buying a set of the 42"s now that I'm not living in Vic anymore. As to whether or not the twin cases happens before or after the 42's will depend on how maxed out my cards are at the time.
I'm not very good looking, so I guess I better be useful . . .
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