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Shocks on a leaf sprung vehicle
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Shocks on a leaf sprung vehicle
G'day all, one question, how important are the shocks in a leaf spring system, I've been told by some that they make bugger all difference, but then again, others have said otherwise. Added to that, is it really worth paying more for say, Pro Comp, Bilstein or Konis? Assuming we have good quality springs too.
TIA.
TIA.
Yeah them too. Just asking as I'm browsing around for new suspension for my HJ 47 - a couple of the shocks are shot as well as the bushes, so only a little more effort, I might as well replace the lot. Anyway, I seen the 82 series Konis, pretty expensive but Konis are brilliant, are they not? It would most likely be coupled with EFS springs, as I've heard good stuff about them and I've found an excellent price on these. so much choice it's confusing.bazzle wrote:They make a big difference.
What about OME?
Try taking your car for a drive without shocks you'll probably roll it. Lovells are a good cheaper shock if your don't want to blow the budget IMHO EFS springs are pretty good - I've had a set in my 60 for about 5 years, they are a little hard maybe take a leaf out all the way around.
I'm not quitting drinking, I'm retiring at the top of my game - sporting comeback likely.
Shocks are dampners, they dampen the spring. Leaf springs are self dampening to some degree, but leaf springs with shocks are much better. You see 6x4 box trailers have no shocks cause it realy don't matter that much on a trailer of that size. I drove an old lux around for 3 months with a snaped rear shock and didn't realy notice much difference. But if it were coil sprung it would of been a death trap.
By the best you can afford.
By the best you can afford.
Turn up th wick ya sook
This is something I thought about recently.bad_religion_au wrote:I had a good set of Koni's at one point in the 40.
i snapped a front shock offroad.
pulled both fronts to get me home.
forgot that i had no front shocks for 3 months...
read into it what you will...
As others noted, inter-leaf friction has a significant damping effect, and I've also read that friction in the shackle contributes too - so I imagine that a well-lubricated leaf pack (i.e. decent inter-leaf friction pads, and whatever else they do) and some quality greasable shackles will significantly reduce the damping (and possibly the effective spring rate?)
I believe this is typically done in an effort to improve articulation. Has anybody done this, and then found that their shock absorbers are not longer good enough for the "new" spring pack?
What have people experienced?
Now THERE'S an interesting question. Gut feeling is spring rate would be unaffected...-Scott- wrote:...significantly reduce the damping (and possibly the effective spring rate?)
My name is Rob.
His name is Robert Paulson. His name is Robert Paulson. His name is Robert Paulson. His name is Robert Paulson.
This is legal advice.
His name is Robert Paulson. His name is Robert Paulson. His name is Robert Paulson. His name is Robert Paulson.
This is legal advice.
Fair call - that's my gut feeling too. But if (that's the big if) "freeing up" the leaves allow them to "flex more", why did they "flex less" when they're not nice and slippy? I have a theory, if anybody is interested in discussing it...RO8M wrote:Now THERE'S an interesting question. Gut feeling is spring rate would be unaffected...-Scott- wrote:...significantly reduce the damping (and possibly the effective spring rate?)
With a lubed spring pack, if the same applied force produces more spring compression hasn't the spring rate decreased? F=k*x. Under static conditions, with sufficient "settling" allowed, there probably wouldn't be a significant difference. But what's happening under dynamic conditions - as you're bouncing along that creek bed?
Big if. Does the lube job really make a difference, or is it a perception?
i had no shocks in the front of my old mk patrol for 6 months and didnt make any difference but when a mate had no shocks in the back of a 60series it bounced around all over the joint, as for u buying shocks i'd probly just buy somthing that is a litle better then ya average shock but dont go spending a fortune
matching spring rates and shock valvings important too- overdampening is just as bad as underdampening.
Ive got matched OME Nitrochargers and OME Dakar packs in the lux, and they work very, very well together- When the coils go into it i'll probably stick with OME matched to the springs (Prado rear end, 79 series front end)
Ive got matched OME Nitrochargers and OME Dakar packs in the lux, and they work very, very well together- When the coils go into it i'll probably stick with OME matched to the springs (Prado rear end, 79 series front end)
2005 HDJ100 Manual, ARB bar, XD9000 winch, ARB rooftop tent + awning, Drawers, Engel, 2" OME lift, 285/75R16 KM2's, iCom, HID XGT's.
shocks
Why don't you like the dobinsons shocks ? Unless your after some really long travel gear they should be more than enough, and if you did ever have any worries at least your only a walk away from the manufacturer.
My rig built by Agro Automotive http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=127032
DILLIGAF RACING
Thanks to- Advance custom concrete, Dobinsons suspension, Maxxis tyres.
DILLIGAF RACING
Thanks to- Advance custom concrete, Dobinsons suspension, Maxxis tyres.
Re: shocks
Just keeping my options open mate, I do have a qoute from Dobinsons sitting here.bad mudda wrote:Why don't you like the dobinsons shocks ? Unless your after some really long travel gear they should be more than enough, and if you did ever have any worries at least your only a walk away from the manufacturer.
shocks
I drove my 60 without shocks when i first put my new springs in and it was an abortion to drive.
Youve only got to stick ya head out the window and have a look at the tyre when you hit a pothole or rough patch and you'll know what they have shocks for.
I borrowed a pair of toughdog big bores for the front untill i got new ones and that made it worse to drive than with none. The rear had a mind of its own...ducking and weaving and BOUNCING all over the road.
Now i have Pro-comps in the rear and still have the toughdogs in the front and ive come to the conclusion that the big bore toughdogs arent meant for 60 series (probably why they arent an option from an suspension co for a 60) as the foul on the spring pack at the bottom and even on the number 1 setting its still rigid as hell.
Pro-comp shocks are good value for money.
Youve only got to stick ya head out the window and have a look at the tyre when you hit a pothole or rough patch and you'll know what they have shocks for.
I borrowed a pair of toughdog big bores for the front untill i got new ones and that made it worse to drive than with none. The rear had a mind of its own...ducking and weaving and BOUNCING all over the road.
Now i have Pro-comps in the rear and still have the toughdogs in the front and ive come to the conclusion that the big bore toughdogs arent meant for 60 series (probably why they arent an option from an suspension co for a 60) as the foul on the spring pack at the bottom and even on the number 1 setting its still rigid as hell.
Pro-comp shocks are good value for money.
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61 Series..12HT..SOA..37"claws.
61 Series..12HT..SOA..37"claws.
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