I've got a 1988 HJ75 ute and there are a few gremlins with the sub tank. I know there is fuel in the tank but its just not getting it to the engine. I've replaced all the fuel lines back from the solenoid, cleaned and serviced the sender unit and filter that are in the tank, and have even had the broken solenoid replaced. The only thing i can think of is that the solenoid has been wired in incorrectly because when i press the button to swap tanks, nothing happens. My question then is does anyone have any ideas as to what the problem could be as I'm completely stumped? If anyone has a wiring diagram for the solenoid could they post it because I'll have a look at that before I ring up the auto elecs who replaced the solenoid.
Cheers in advance
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HJ75 rear tank problems
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
go here and if its the same type of solonoid open up and save the picture then you can open it and enlarge to read properly.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/POLLAK-F ... ccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/POLLAK-F ... ccessories
test your wiring and run a jump wire (temporary) to see if that brings it to life. I had trouble with the fuses in my 75, they would just get sh1tty contact over time and the headlights in particular would be the most obvious to notice. I found out 12v at the accessory doesn't mean it is getting 12v when running. Maybe something to check out.
Don't take life too seriously...it isn't permanent.
I've noticed my headlights are like this aswell. Maybe I might get the multimeter out and see what the go is. What do you mean by a jump wire?BadMav wrote:test your wiring and run a jump wire (temporary) to see if that brings it to life. I had trouble with the fuses in my 75, they would just get sh1tty contact over time and the headlights in particular would be the most obvious to notice. I found out 12v at the accessory doesn't mean it is getting 12v when running. Maybe something to check out.
A jump wire is just a separate wire run straight off the battery. Just to test it though.
Test for OHMS as well as voltage. That should show up a bad connection/earth. Test OHMS or microOHMS across the fuses too.
75 series headlights are positive common and the negative is switched. Mine was anyway. Something to keep in mind.
Test for OHMS as well as voltage. That should show up a bad connection/earth. Test OHMS or microOHMS across the fuses too.
75 series headlights are positive common and the negative is switched. Mine was anyway. Something to keep in mind.
Don't take life too seriously...it isn't permanent.
Right so I went investigating today with the multimeter a found that there is power going to the solenoid and power at the switch so I'm guessing the problem isn't there. The lowest ohms that my multimeter can read is the 200 scale so I checked with that and was getting around 130 
so I'm not sure that is right. I know that with the 80 series tanks the main has to be empty before the sub can be used so I'm wondering if this is the case with the 75 as well? Although the 80s tanks are joined whereas the 75s are separate.
so I'm not sure that is right. I know that with the 80 series tanks the main has to be empty before the sub can be used so I'm wondering if this is the case with the 75 as well? Although the 80s tanks are joined whereas the 75s are separate.Who is online
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