I added two 0.5mm shims, one either side. I *may* have put them in the wrong place, but it will still work. If i have them in the wrong spot, let me know, i didnt remove anything from the diff, just added the 2 shims.
Im hoping that someone might get some help from this post!
Ok, first up i have the centre held in a bench vice. I have punch marked the bearing adjustment nuts so that the bearings will be exactly as they were before I touched anything. as well as the bearing clamp.
Remove the locking tab. From my punch mark, the bearing adjustment nuts took 4 full turns to remove.
Once adjusting nuts are removed, remove the two bearing clamps. The centre is now able to be lifted out
The ring gear bolts now need to be removed, they are tight! I clamped the centre into a bench vice and used soft copper jaws
Now the ring gear can be removed, Then turn the centre over, and there are three phillips head screws to remove. They are also tight, I used an impact driver to remove
The centre can now split open, and the clutch packs and sun gears can be accessed
I then turned over the centre on the bench (put hand over so everything doesnt drop out while turning over) then carefully let the contents of the centre come out onto the bench. I made sure everything stayed in order, and this is important
I then removed the top shim/spacer to create a template for the shims. I cut my own shims, but i would reccomend just buying the shims you want, much easier
Once shims were cut, (now this is where i may have put them in the wrong place) I put a shim on either side, of the centres contents. So my first shim was the first thing to go back into the empty centre, and 2nd shim was the last thing to go in before closing back up. Pic shows all of the contents of the diff placed back in, in the correct order, then my shim last to go on.
I then closed it up, and there was a gap, (there was a gap before i put any shims in also, once the three phillips screws were removed it 'sprung' open) and with the assistance of three g-clamps i closed it up the gap and placed in the three screws. I didnt want to close the gap with the screws as i didnt want to risk damaging the heads because it was pretty tight.
I then put the ring gear back on, in the exact position it came off. and used blue loctite threadlocker. I torqued the bolts up to 150NM
Now the centre can go back in, and fit the bearing outer race, and the bearing clamp finger tight.
Then screw the bearing adjusting nuts back in, the same amount of turns (using punch) they took to remove, mine took 4, and line up the punch marks (ensure you put everything back into the same side it come off).
Then do up the clamp bolts and fit the locking tab.
Done!
Any critisism is welcome. If i should have done something a different way, let me know.
Mike
preety much saved me having to do a write up a while ago hehe, and i agree buying them save alot of hassle, i used hobzees shims .7mm, i brought 4 but could only fit 1 in 1 side, it made it like a locker. Your write up should be a sticky in like a D.I.Y section of the forum as it will really help alot of those D.I.Yers (like myself) 
