3RZFE into ln106 hilux conversion

[soulja-on]

Hi guys well the time has come for a bit more GO in my d/c 4wd.
To replace the sloowww 2.8 diesel I have purchased a 2004 3rzfe engine complete with all accessories the bellhousing to mate up to my g series box and the clutch setup and slave cylinder also the complete loom and ecu plus one oxygen sensor.

Im hoping someone can help me out as i plan to do this conversion myself in 2 months time.
I have searched the web for information on this conversion into my ln106 but have not answered many Q's i have.

1.Does the engine straight bolt onto my chassis, if not what mods need to be made? how do i go about it?
2.Has anyone done the wiring side of things especially for the diesel engine that was in it? ( I plan to take out whats not needed from the interior wiring and buy a second hand v6 surf gauge cluster if it makes it easier)
3. Fuel wise im using a v6 surf tank with internal pump but can i use the diesel lines for any of my supply or return, what other parts would be needed in the supply route to the engine.
4.Oxy sensors, do i need 1 or 2? Engine bay wiring can anyone give me a partial or complete rundown?

Im a diesel mechanic so i like to think i have some [nouse] for the conversion however electrics can some times turn things to pickle lol.

Anyones help much appreciated

[dillza_69]

All your questions are answered in a topic titled "Definitive guide to 3rz conversion" try searching for it (I cant seem to find it, searched through google and it returned a result but came up with not found error)

I did a 3rz conversion on my 89 d/c. I also bought a v6 fuel tank but mine was out of a 4runner, it didn't fit, would only fit a single cab.(back part of tank fouled on floor pan) Might pay to check before you start. If yours is the same you can either use a tank out of a d/c hilux that had a 3rz( need to move rear mounts back as tank is longer) or you can keep existing tank and run a lift pump surge tank setup

I found the wiring easy, im a sparky by trade. If you have a little electrical knowledge you will be able to do it yourself.

Another bit of advice is to keep the complete intake assembly as factory as possible, from airbox to throttle body.


3RZ standard alternator wiring

Red wire: "ignition on" 12V power – 12V when the ignition s/w is activated, fused at 10A – don't give this constant power
Small white wire: 12V battery power, direct connection to battery + terminal, fused at 7.5-10A.
Yellow wire: ground signal for "charge warning lamp". This provides a ground signal for a lamp in case of alternator failure.


PLUG A (26 pin) - Connect to Computer Untouched
> PLUG B (16 pin) - Connect to Computer Untouched
>
> PLUG C (22 pin) - Connect to Computer - With the Following Additions
> (from
> the original body harness)
>
> ESSENTIAL:

> C1 Yellow +ve Constant 12V+ from a
> fused battery source - input

> C11 Pink & Black +ve Starter motor
> trigger from ign switch - input

> C12 Red & Blue +ve Supplied from EFI
> relay - input

> C14 Green & Yellow -ve Trigger for fuel
> pump relay - output


> NON ESSENTIAL:
> C4 Green & White Connect to stop
> light switch - input
> C5 Violet & Green -ve Check engine light -
> output
> C8 Red & White Tacho - output
> C9 Green & Orange Vehicle Speed Sensor - input
> C13 Green & Black 4WD Switch - input
>
> PLUG D (13 pin) - Supply the following sources into the loom
>
> ESSENTIAL:
> D1 Top Row Red & Blue +ve Supply to
> airflow meter from EFI relay - input

> D2 Bottom Row Black & Brown +ve Supply to ignition
> coil from EFI relay - input

> D6 Bottom Row Brown -ve Earthed to chassis -
> input
>
> PLUG E - Engine Diagnosis Port

[yamaha__308]

It's all here:

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 8&t=162017" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

(For reference, you gotta grab the new address format and replace the topic number to get the old threads. I think the search indexing hasn't finished yet)

I've just finished my conversion into a LN65 (test drive tonight!) I'll post up the things I did different.

[soulja-on]

Hi guys thanks for the help im trying to get as much knowledge and parts as possible and this is all bloody gold as far as im concerned. I will check out the link you gave and see if i come up with any other concerns.
Its exciting thinking of my hilux will drive like, and then the extra power ,wish i could start the conversion now.

[soulja-on]

Ok guys is it possible to use my diesel lines anywhere or should i just purchase and bend up my own. we have flaring kits at work. what fuel filters should i look for anyones ideas?

Also what about my gauges i dont want to have guages that dont work so will a different gauge cluster fit into my dash console to suit the tacho and speed and warning lights etc?

Again thanks for your guys help.

[zookisteve]

how much you selling the 2.8 for?

[yamaha__308]

Ok guys is it possible to use my diesel lines anywhere or should i just purchase and bend up my own. we have flaring kits at work. what fuel filters should i look for anyones ideas?

Also what about my gauges i dont want to have guages that dont work so will a different gauge cluster fit into my dash console to suit the tacho and speed and warning lights etc?

Again thanks for your guys help.

I used the steel diesel lines with injection hose going from the tank to steel lines and steel line to filter and fuel rail. Used a VN fuel filter because the 3RZ one was too exxy.

Diesel tacho wont work with the 3RZ. Pretty sure petrol dash will work with a resistor mod. Also not sure about the fuel gauge with the V6 tank pickup. The plugs are different (3 and 2 pin) so I'm going to test it and see if I can rig something up.

A 3RZ dash would look good, then you can also get the VSS working.


It's an easy conversion. This was my first one and the only traps I found were the negative trigger for the fuel pump and inlet/drain of the fuel rail. There's a few pictures and stuff in my build up thread.

[soulja-on]

[quote="zookisteve"]how much you selling the 2.8 for?[/quote]

heya mate i live in New Zealand so id hate to think of shipping costs.

[soulja-on]

[quote="yamaha__308"][quote="soulja-on"]Ok guys is it possible to use my diesel lines anywhere or should i just purchase and bend up my own. we have flaring kits at work. what fuel filters should i look for anyones ideas?

Also what about my gauges i dont want to have guages that dont work so will a different gauge cluster fit into my dash console to suit the tacho and speed and warning lights etc?

Again thanks for your guys help.[/quote]

I used the steel diesel lines with injection hose going from the tank to steel lines and steel line to filter and fuel rail. Used a VN fuel filter because the 3RZ one was too exxy.

Diesel tacho wont work with the 3RZ. Pretty sure petrol dash will work with a resistor mod. Also not sure about the fuel gauge with the V6 tank pickup. The plugs are different (3 and 2 pin) so I'm going to test it and see if I can rig something up.

A 3RZ dash would look good, then you can also get the VSS working.


It's an easy conversion. This was my first one and the only traps I found were the negative trigger for the fuel pump and inlet/drain of the fuel rail. There's a few pictures and stuff in my build up thread.[/quote]


Thats cool man this will be my first as well i have no doubt i will be going through your conversion for useful tips mate. Great work on yours i hope to have a positive outlook as well.

[sloshy]

On a side note the 2.8 alternator plug will go straight in to the 3rz alternator, you just have to extend the wires as its on the other side and the temp sensor will plug straight in too.

[soulja-on]

[quote="sloshy"]On a side note the 2.8 alternator plug will go straight in to the 3rz alternator, you just have to extend the wires as its on the other side and the temp sensor will plug straight in too.[/quote]

Cool cheers mate, i only have the temp sender wire as the plug and sender for the 3rzfe engine was taxed.
The 3rz alternator plug is still in it with just the wires cut so that should help hugely.

Can anyone tell me if my current diesel fuse box will do the job? can i reuse some relays or is it best to buy new ones?

Thanks guys

[yamaha__308]

On a side note the 2.8 alternator plug will go straight in to the 3rz alternator, you just have to extend the wires as its on the other side and the temp sensor will plug straight in too.

Cool cheers mate, i only have the temp sender wire as the plug and sender for the 3rzfe engine was taxed.
The 3rz alternator plug is still in it with just the wires cut so that should help hugely.

Can anyone tell me if my current diesel fuse box will do the job? can i reuse some relays or is it best to buy new ones?

Thanks guys

I used the old fuse box, just added two new relays for ECU and fuel pump and mounted new blade fuses in the box in the spare spots. I would buy new relays. The temp sender works in the old gauge, tested it tonight.

[soulja-on]

From the diesel wiring can anyone break it down a bit and tell me what needs to be stripped out colurs etc. Ive read that once you strip the glow plug and general diesel stuff out it leaves no very much wiring at all.
Do i need a cat converter?

Hey i read somewhere else that you could weld a plate onto the chassis mounts and sit the engine onto it then drill holes and bolt, Im guessing that the best way and safest would be to cut the cahssis mounts and weld in new place as ive been told previously.
I think i might be making out in my mind that its harder than it really is.

[yamaha__308]

There is a LOT of wiring for the glow circuits. Have you got a workshop manual? You'll need one. Go through the wiring diagrams and trace all the glow plug related wires and rip it all out. The only old wiring you need on the passenger side loom is coolant temp wire, heater fan power, wiper motor wiring, ignition on wire.. (think thats it..)
Strip the passenger loom and add all the inputs (and output) to the ECU to this loom.

I swapped my battery and fuse box to the passenger side because that's where the engine loom, alternator, ECU mounting ended up. I extended the loom across the rad support to the new fuse box. Ran the VN airbox where the battery was.

I used the glow plug lamp (also found on passenger side loom) for the check engine light. Hooked the oil pressure light to the oil pressure sender wire into the ECU. I'll update with wiring colours when I get home, not sure of the differences between Gen 2 and Gen 3 wiring though. I have a grubby cheat sheet with all my markups.

Here 3RZ's don't use a cat converter, not sure what NZ is like.

Engine mounts are easy. Get the engine out, cut em off, bolt to 3RZ, chuck in the 3RZ, bolt the gearbox up with the crossmember. Then get the engine height & angle right, tack them in, take the engine out and burn them in. The top of the power steering reservoir should be level, not the rocker cover. Tilt the engine back about 4 degrees.

While the engines out, take the handbrake wheel housing off, it's not going to fit, or it's going to get melted. Use a V6 one instead.

[soulja-on]

[quote="yamaha__308"]There is a LOT of wiring for the glow circuits. Have you got a workshop manual? You'll need one. Go through the wiring diagrams and trace all the glow plug related wires and rip it all out. The only old wiring you need on the passenger side loom is coolant temp wire, heater fan power, wiper motor wiring, ignition on wire.. (think thats it..)
Strip the passenger loom and add all the inputs (and output) to the ECU to this loom.

I swapped my battery and fuse box to the passenger side because that's where the engine loom, alternator, ECU mounting ended up. I extended the loom across the rad support to the new fuse box. Ran the VN airbox where the battery was.

I used the glow plug lamp (also found on passenger side loom) for the check engine light. Hooked the oil pressure light to the oil pressure sender wire into the ECU. I'll update with wiring colours when I get home, not sure of the differences between Gen 2 and Gen 3 wiring though. I have a grubby cheat sheet with all my markups.

Here 3RZ's don't use a cat converter, not sure what NZ is like.

Engine mounts are easy. Get the engine out, cut em off, bolt to 3RZ, chuck in the 3RZ, bolt the gearbox up with the crossmember. Then get the engine height & angle right, tack them in, take the engine out and burn them in. The top of the power steering reservoir should be level, not the rocker cover. Tilt the engine back about 4 degrees.

While the engines out, take the handbrake wheel housing off, it's not going to fit, or it's going to get melted. Use a V6 one instead.[/quote]


Choice one mate your a huge help glad i asked here to start off with. Thats awesome so most of the wiring can be culled out of there , your knowledge is unbeatable, i hope the difference in wiring is not too much different for the 04 3rz engine. what tacho are you using also the speedo what avenue did you take?
I looked at your build and man your a thourough worker, your lux is looking bloody good. I have all the stock intake so theres no probs there. I plan to use a similar if not exact set up for the engine wiring and fuse box setup it looks like it was meant to be.. Do you still have the interior fuse box installed ?

Cheers again mate

[soulja-on]

hey guys well i was thinking about my R150 trans in the shed and thought if i used that instead of the g series box what would i need to change. The bellhousing? Slave cylinder? Is the trans longer, if i was to ( assuming i have the right bellhousing ) bolt the" R "trans to the engine then look at where to weld my mounts to the chassis after bolting the trans mount to the crossmember where the "g" box was, would this work, could it possibly eliminate the need to grind off the chassis mounts?

Im only asking to see if anyone has done this, plus i thought the "R" box would be stronger behind the 3rz. MMMM...... will i need to change the clutch set up that i already have?????

Also guys do i need to use a charcoal canister? does not having one cause problems or less power?

[yamaha__308]

Choice one mate your a huge help glad i asked here to start off with. Thats awesome so most of the wiring can be culled out of there , your knowledge is unbeatable, i hope the difference in wiring is not too much different for the 04 3rz engine. what tacho are you using also the speedo what avenue did you take?
I looked at your build and man your a thourough worker, your lux is looking bloody good. I have all the stock intake so theres no probs there. I plan to use a similar if not exact set up for the engine wiring and fuse box setup it looks like it was meant to be.. Do you still have the interior fuse box installed ?

Cheers again mate

Thanks, no worries mate!

I haven't got a tacho hooked up, diesel one won't work. I don't really want a ricer one, so if do get one, I'll be doing a complete dash. Speedo is stock.

Interior fuse box was untouched, still required for the body electrics. Nothing was removed from the drivers side loom, just extended.

[yamaha__308]

hey guys well i was thinking about my R150 trans in the shed and thought if i used that instead of the g series box what would i need to change. The bellhousing? Slave cylinder? Is the trans longer, if i was to ( assuming i have the right bellhousing ) bolt the" R "trans to the engine then look at where to weld my mounts to the chassis after bolting the trans mount to the crossmember where the "g" box was, would this work, could it possibly eliminate the need to grind off the chassis mounts?

Im only asking to see if anyone has done this, plus i thought the "R" box would be stronger behind the 3rz. MMMM...... will i need to change the clutch set up that i already have?????

Also guys do i need to use a charcoal canister? does not having one cause problems or less power?

Not sure on length differences, but you would need a different bellhousing. You would also need to use the chain driven transfer with the R series box, unless you bought the adaptor from TG or similar to run the gear driven case. Clutch stays with the 3RZ. Not sure you get away with not moving engine mounts.
The R series is stronger, but if you drive accordingly, the G52 has held up to even 1UZ's.

Charcoal canister is to collect fuel vapours when the engine is off and then sucks the vapours in through the intake. Nothing to do with power, just emissions regulations.

[yamaha__308]

Oil pressure sender is on Plug D, 13 pin, blue and white.
Coolant temp sender is yellow and red

[soulja-on]

Not sure on length differences, but you would need a different bellhousing. You would also need to use the chain driven transfer with the R series box, unless you bought the adaptor from TG or similar to run the gear driven case. Clutch stays with the 3RZ. Not sure you get away with not moving engine mounts.
The R series is stronger, but if you drive accordingly, the G52 has held up to even 1UZ's.

Charcoal canister is to collect fuel vapours when the engine is off and then sucks the vapours in through the intake. Nothing to do with power, just emissions regulations.[/quote]

Sweet thanks i noticed you didnt run the charcoal canister and it saves me one less thing to buy.

The R trans i have already has the t/case on the back looks to be electronically activated too. Im only asking because the g box is starting to feel a little graunchy in some gears and well the r box is sitting there. I think i read somewhere of a 2tr-fe bellhousing will mate the r box up. I might just see if i buy this b/housing for $30 how i feel at the time as to whether i change boxes or not.

hey on my wiring loom theres the plugs which connect to the ECU and then theres another 2 connectors branching off about 150mm back from the ecu connectors, any idea what these would be for? I Think i should download a wiring diagram to help and save pestering you guys.

I will undoubtedly post my conversion and pics. Im trying to sway the boss(mrs) into allowing me to start it earlier than sept. I just wanna get in and do it!!! lol.

Thanks Yamaha_308

[soulja-on]

[quote="yamaha__308"]Oil pressure sender is on Plug D, 13 pin, blue and white.
Coolant temp sender is yellow and red[/quote]

Ha you just answered my question then mate. So those 2 connectors pretty much provide the 2 you have just said and thats it?

What about the stop light circuit can you just cut them and leave it out?

Oh mate did you sort your gauge cluster out i was askin around for the rzn149 guage cluster and the best i could get was $150 NZD. But im not sure if it will fit would prefer to see it and measure up you know.

[yamaha__308]

Sweet thanks i noticed you didnt run the charcoal canister and it saves me one less thing to buy.

The R trans i have already has the t/case on the back looks to be electronically activated too. Im only asking because the g box is starting to feel a little graunchy in some gears and well the r box is sitting there. I think i read somewhere of a 2lt-fe bellhousing will mate the r box up. I might just see if i buy this b/housing for $30 how i feel at the time as to whether i change boxes or not.

hey on my wiring loom theres the plugs which connect to the ECU and then theres another 2 connectors branching off about 150mm back from the ecu connectors, any idea what these would be for? I Think i should download a wiring diagram to help and save pestering you guys.

I will undoubtedly post my conversion and pics. Im trying to sway the boss(mrs) into allowing me to start it earlier than sept. I just wanna get in and do it!!! lol.

Thanks Yamaha_308

I will be running a charcoal canister to meet with the emissions regs to get it plated. Which means running a new fuel hose for the vent..

There is a plug for the VSS on the loom, this is unused. Are you talking about this one or AFM plug or the air mixture dial?

Ha you just answered my question then mate. So those 2 connectors pretty much provide the 2 you have just said and thats it?

What about the stop light circuit can you just cut them and leave it out?

Oh mate did you sort your gauge cluster out i was askin around for the rzn149 guage cluster and the best i could get was $150 NZD. But im not sure if it will fit would prefer to see it and measure up you know.

Nah those aren't connectors, they are inputs into the 3rz body loom from the ECU loom. The old body loom plug connects to Plug D. Cut this plug off and solder your existing oil pressure signal wire and coolant temp signal wire, along with the inputs stated above.

It'll make sense when you start. Get wiring diagrams for the 106, you shouldn't need wiring diagrams for the 3RZ.

[soulja-on]

I will be running a charcoal canister to meet with the emissions regs to get it plated. Which means running a new fuel hose for the vent..

There is a plug for the VSS on the loom, this is unused. Are you talking about this one or AFM plug or the air mixture dial?

I get ya mate, are you going to find a different canister? I wouldnt have a clue how much it would cost for the factory one

The 2 connectors One is a 13hole connector with 10 wires/holes being used, the other is a 7 hole connector with 5 wires/holes being used. Not sure what they are for?

[color=#00BF00]What about the stop light circuit can you just cut them and leave it out?[/color]

Oh mate did you sort your gauge cluster out i was askin around for the rzn149 guage cluster and the best i could get was $150 NZD. But im not sure if it will fit would prefer to see it and measure up you know.
[/quote]

Nah those aren't connectors, they are inputs into the 3rz body loom from the ECU loom. The old body loom plug connects to Plug D. Cut this plug off and solder your existing oil pressure signal wire and coolant temp signal wire, along with the inputs stated above.

It'll make sense when you start. Get wiring diagrams for the 106, you shouldn't need wiring diagrams for the 3RZ.[/quote]

Yea mate i have my truck manual there, wicked thats my plan good idea to cut off and resolder.

[404HZS]

i am currently putting a 3rz into my LN130 surf with the R150f in it. Using the 2TR bellhousing it will bolt to the gearbox and uses the standard 3RZ clutch assembly.

Not sure on engine mounts tho. Mine have to go back 75mm despite being told it was only 30mm. So i am going to be designing some new mounts to weld to the chassis in the right spot. Yours will most likely be different again as the G series box crossmember location is probably different to the R series location. I think its time to get a tape measure and a Pen & Paper

[soulja-on]

[quote="404HZS"]i am currently putting a 3rz into my LN130 surf with the R150f in it. Using the 2TR bellhousing it will bolt to the gearbox and uses the standard 3RZ clutch assembly.

Not sure on engine mounts tho. Mine have to go back 75mm despite being told it was only 30mm. So i am going to be designing some new mounts to weld to the chassis in the right spot. Yours will most likely be different again as the G series box crossmember location is probably different to the R series location. I think its time to get a tape measure and a Pen & Paper [/quote]

Wicked mate hows the conversion going for you have you hit any snags?
Well i got off my a$$ and went and measured them up and their pretty much the same length from output flange to where the trans /bellhousing meet. also measued the trans mount to trans /bellhousing and again roughly the same( by rough its about +/- 5mm ).
Whats the width of the 2tr bellhousing?price? also can i keep the slave cylinder from the g/w sries set up?

Thanks for your input too "404HZS"

[YN67highlux]

youre probally better off trying to get the whole charcol canister assy. then you can hook up the purge sensor. heres a pic of it if ya dont know what im talking about. cost me 80 bucks for this setup and a complete airbox with afm from wreckers.

[yamaha__308]

I get ya mate, are you going to find a different canister?

I'm going to use a V6 canister but need to find a purge valve.

The 2 connectors One is a 13hole connector with 10 wires/holes being used,

the other is a 7 hole connector with 5 wires/holes being used. Not sure what they are for?

The 13 pin plug connects to the old body loom, this is the plug I cut off and added the inputs into the loom and took the oil pressure and coolant temp outputs from.

The 7 pin is for the diagnostics, leave it as is.

What about the stop light circuit can you just cut them and leave it out?

You can leave the stop light switch out, but I think the ECU uses this to give better throttle response (?) when you get back on the gas.

Oh mate did you sort your gauge cluster out i was askin around for the rzn149 guage cluster and the best i could get was $150 NZD. But im not sure if it will fit would prefer to see it and measure up you know.
I am still using the diesel dash.

[yamaha__308]

The purge valve is there to shut the line off to prevent fuel being sucked up by manifold vacuum, right?

Where does this get wired in?

[YN67highlux]

yep sure is. the ill have a look tomorrow pretty sure the red and blue goes to main relay and black white goes to ecu witch is -triggered...

[404HZS]

Wicked mate hows the conversion going for you have you hit any snags?
Thanks for your input too "404HZS"

the only snag i have hit so far is the engine mounts needing to come back so far. I'm designing some new stronger ones to mount on the chassis further back. The factory diesel mounts are small.
other than that reasonably straight forward but not as easy as a hilux it seems.
I am also going to be running an aftermarket standalone ECU & wideband controller in preparation for turbo so this makes it not a plug and play set-up.