Kind folks,
Battery charge light has been staying on a bit more than usual the last few days. I thought it might be bad contacts on the positive terminal, since there was corrosion there, but no think the alternator is not doing its job.
Tried to start engine tonight, and after a couple of slow turns, battery dies completely. Still 12V on the terminals according to the multimeter. Swapping to the secondary battery didn't help - same low charge. Using a portable car starter thing clamped to the terminals, car starts without a problem.
Drove off, but engine is coughing under small load. Radio cuts in and out and lights dim and die. Drive back home with lights off. Parked at home, I let the car fast idle (on the hand throttle) hoping the charge light will go off. Not much action for a while, so I tried the multimeter on the terminals with the car running fast - 9.5V!!
Another point which I'm not quite sure is significant - the car has been running on just slightly lately as well. In particular, when I turned the key off for the last time tonight the engine chugged for a good 4-5 seconds before dying. I can't quite figure this out - does this have anything to do with the regulator?
So! If I'm up for a new alternator, what are some suggestions to fit to an MQ's petrol L28? I have a pair of LightForce 170's on there now, and a UHF, but not much else. Is it worth investigating a rebuild? I'll be pulling things apart tomorrow morning, so will have a better idea of what's going on then, but are there any suggestions on where to start?
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After advice on alternator troubles on the L28
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
After advice on alternator troubles on the L28
* Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool *
The problem u just described sounds very much like the Alternator Regulator. Thats the same simptoms i had in my diesel ( and sometimes still get ) but i know the charge situation in the L28 is very different to that of the SD33. I would say its the regulator.
If u want to go as far as the alternator, take it out and apart and clean it, ive found in the past that ive had mud and sh1t in the brushes etc. that cause it not to charge. If u clean it and stick it back in then u can at laest eliminate one option.
I had my alternator rebuild when i first got the patrol and it cost me about $250.
I can sell u a good second hand one from here for heaps less than that if ya want
Regulators are worth about $90 retail price depending on brand etc.
HTH
Screwy
If u want to go as far as the alternator, take it out and apart and clean it, ive found in the past that ive had mud and sh1t in the brushes etc. that cause it not to charge. If u clean it and stick it back in then u can at laest eliminate one option.
I had my alternator rebuild when i first got the patrol and it cost me about $250.
I can sell u a good second hand one from here for heaps less than that if ya want
Regulators are worth about $90 retail price depending on brand etc.
HTH
Screwy
TUFF TRUCK TEAM OPPOSITE LOCK Proudly Sponsored By:
Opposite Lock Narellan, Lightforce Australia, Offroad Systems, Judd Panels, Townsend Signs, RDG Engineering, Central Safety Workwear
Opposite Lock Narellan, Lightforce Australia, Offroad Systems, Judd Panels, Townsend Signs, RDG Engineering, Central Safety Workwear
Okay, I have the alternator out. I think it probably had a bit of mud through it recently. I managed to get the four perimeter screws out (after just about stripping the head on one) but can't for the life of me get the nut off the pulley, so I cant get it apart. I don't have anything to bench test the unit here anyway, so I think I'll drop it off at an auto-elec to get tested.
Where is this regulator you speak of Screwy? Is it internal? I couldn't find it by tracing the wires.
What is the amp rating of the stock alternator, so I know what sort of area I'd be looking at if I need a replacement? It has Hitachi stamped on the back of it if that helps.
Where is this regulator you speak of Screwy? Is it internal? I couldn't find it by tracing the wires.
What is the amp rating of the stock alternator, so I know what sort of area I'd be looking at if I need a replacement? It has Hitachi stamped on the back of it if that helps.
* Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool *
JUst found this on another list - http://www.aea.com.au/index.htm
Check there site out as there was some good specials on the Hitachi stuff.
Check there site out as there was some good specials on the Hitachi stuff.
THOUGHT FOR THE DAY....
Twisted by Design
I recently replaced my toyota alternator with a bosch unit, after my alternator kept blowing the regulator when in the mud. It was almost a straight fit with only one bracket having to be modified and a new plug fitted. It's also an 85 amp instead of the toyota 60. The guys at Bosch recomended it for 4x4 use and said it should cope better with water/mud getting on it.
The unit was a BXU 1285 and cost me $185 wholesale, so retail should be low $200's. They are cheaper to buy parts for to if you need them then genuine items.
Might be worth looking into rather than paying for a rebuild.
The unit was a BXU 1285 and cost me $185 wholesale, so retail should be low $200's. They are cheaper to buy parts for to if you need them then genuine items.
Might be worth looking into rather than paying for a rebuild.
2012 FJ Cruiser
1984 BJ42 - Stretched and Coilovered
1977 HJ45
1984 BJ42 - Stretched and Coilovered
1977 HJ45
Thanks for the tips guys, looks like good advice.
The alternator is in at Newcastle Auto Electronics now and I'm expecting a call this arvo. They bench tested it while I was there, and the (Indian?) fellow that came out reckoned it was "going up and down like this, something not right". I wasn't real convinced by his technical description, but I hope they do it right when they strip it down this arvo.
Meanwhile, I still can't find this regulator. If I find it, what am I looking for? Just electrical mess, or is there some simple test I can do?
If I go a non-standard replacement, what sort of work on the mount are we talking? I dont have access to much metal work machinery beyond an angle grinder, and I'd like to get this sorted without too much fuss.
The alternator is in at Newcastle Auto Electronics now and I'm expecting a call this arvo. They bench tested it while I was there, and the (Indian?) fellow that came out reckoned it was "going up and down like this, something not right". I wasn't real convinced by his technical description, but I hope they do it right when they strip it down this arvo.
Meanwhile, I still can't find this regulator. If I find it, what am I looking for? Just electrical mess, or is there some simple test I can do?
If I go a non-standard replacement, what sort of work on the mount are we talking? I dont have access to much metal work machinery beyond an angle grinder, and I'd like to get this sorted without too much fuss.
* Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool *
Another update! Just received a call from the sparky. He says "yep, the alternator is shot". I tried to extract a bit more detail out of him, and he was vague but said the recitifier is blown. A replacement alternator is worth $180, which seems very reasonable to me.
Considering I'm unlikely to put too many more current draining devices on the rig, will an original do? It certainly sounds like the minimum of fuss, and the current one apparently has done >20 years.
In any case, he's getting one in this arvo, which I can pick up. I'm fairly tempted by the quick turn around, to just hand over the $180 and be done with it.
I asked whether the regulator would need checking. He reckoned seeing the alternator is dead, the regulator is probably alright, but after I bolt it all up I can bring it in and they will check. But I was thinking that if I bolt it all up and the battery charges (has 13.5-14V across terminals), then it is probably ok!
Considering I'm unlikely to put too many more current draining devices on the rig, will an original do? It certainly sounds like the minimum of fuss, and the current one apparently has done >20 years.
In any case, he's getting one in this arvo, which I can pick up. I'm fairly tempted by the quick turn around, to just hand over the $180 and be done with it.
I asked whether the regulator would need checking. He reckoned seeing the alternator is dead, the regulator is probably alright, but after I bolt it all up I can bring it in and they will check. But I was thinking that if I bolt it all up and the battery charges (has 13.5-14V across terminals), then it is probably ok!
* Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool *
Twisted by Design
i will give u a good one on the rig here for $100.
The regulator is a small box about 70mm by 60mm by about 40 mm deep that has one binacle on it that connects to the wires going to the alternator, though im not sure if the L28 has one. I know the SD33 does. But thats wat they look like anyways.
cheers,
Screwy
The regulator is a small box about 70mm by 60mm by about 40 mm deep that has one binacle on it that connects to the wires going to the alternator, though im not sure if the L28 has one. I know the SD33 does. But thats wat they look like anyways.
cheers,
Screwy
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Opposite Lock Narellan, Lightforce Australia, Offroad Systems, Judd Panels, Townsend Signs, RDG Engineering, Central Safety Workwear
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THe MQ L28's have an external regulator mounted on the drivers side just in front of the Battery it is about the sixe that Screwy stated., i had the alternator replaced on my old MQ with one off a 180B i think it was, it was a bolt on fit, though it had an internal regulator so they had to change a few wires.
Well, the alternator is finally in, and the idiot light is off for the first time in quite a while!
I say finally in because I had a few issues - so much for the simplicity of getting a replacement! First the dude at the shop said to watch these shims he's put in the mounts, and to make sure they don't fall out when I put the bolts through. I find that weird and asked why they where necessary. He quickly said, "Oh, just different sizes" and brushed it off. Ok then.
I almost left when I realised this alternator, which did look identical except for its newness (lack of mud and grot!) and different coloured insulation tape, didn't have the little radio capacitor the other one had. I went back in and asked about it. He said, "Oh, I don't think you'll need it, but I'll grab it" and fetched the old one. He wasn't real sure where it went but I suggested it probably screwed into the case and the lead clipped under the battery post to short out high frequency noise. "Yeah, probably" was his reply.
So anyway, I returned home and set about installing it. Simple job right? Nothing is ever bloody simple on old cars! The mounts on the alternator were about 3.5mm too narrow to fit on the engine! A friend suggested opening up the screws around the perimeter of the unit to help it seperate and then tighten them up. Another friend suggested grinding the mounts on the alternator down. In the end, the screws were far too tight (heads where stripping before looking like budging) so I pulled the angle grinder out.
After much swearing, grinding, smoothing, hammering, swearing and elbow grease, it went in. I wasn't sure how tight to make the belt, but I just lent fairly hard on the alternator while doing up the adjustment bolt. Belt feels snug, and I can only make it slip by pushing the alternator fins rather hard. Sound about right?
The wires down to the alternator had a double wire for the battery, a two pin plug for the field (and indicator/earth?) and another black wire. I screwed the black wire under the capacitor (after soldering it back together - another screw up!), the twin wires to the BAT post and the plug in its socket. I'm very pleased to say that after a push start, she started up, and the battery (idiot) light went off very quickly!
Anyway, sorry the drawn out story on replacing an alternator, but that's the way it goes.
I say finally in because I had a few issues - so much for the simplicity of getting a replacement! First the dude at the shop said to watch these shims he's put in the mounts, and to make sure they don't fall out when I put the bolts through. I find that weird and asked why they where necessary. He quickly said, "Oh, just different sizes" and brushed it off. Ok then.
I almost left when I realised this alternator, which did look identical except for its newness (lack of mud and grot!) and different coloured insulation tape, didn't have the little radio capacitor the other one had. I went back in and asked about it. He said, "Oh, I don't think you'll need it, but I'll grab it" and fetched the old one. He wasn't real sure where it went but I suggested it probably screwed into the case and the lead clipped under the battery post to short out high frequency noise. "Yeah, probably" was his reply.
So anyway, I returned home and set about installing it. Simple job right? Nothing is ever bloody simple on old cars! The mounts on the alternator were about 3.5mm too narrow to fit on the engine! A friend suggested opening up the screws around the perimeter of the unit to help it seperate and then tighten them up. Another friend suggested grinding the mounts on the alternator down. In the end, the screws were far too tight (heads where stripping before looking like budging) so I pulled the angle grinder out.
After much swearing, grinding, smoothing, hammering, swearing and elbow grease, it went in. I wasn't sure how tight to make the belt, but I just lent fairly hard on the alternator while doing up the adjustment bolt. Belt feels snug, and I can only make it slip by pushing the alternator fins rather hard. Sound about right?
The wires down to the alternator had a double wire for the battery, a two pin plug for the field (and indicator/earth?) and another black wire. I screwed the black wire under the capacitor (after soldering it back together - another screw up!), the twin wires to the BAT post and the plug in its socket. I'm very pleased to say that after a push start, she started up, and the battery (idiot) light went off very quickly!
Anyway, sorry the drawn out story on replacing an alternator, but that's the way it goes.
* Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool *
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