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Carling Switch illumination problem
Moderator: -Scott-
Carling Switch illumination problem
Iv just installed two momentary in cab winch switches and they are 5 pin Carling's.
Now here is my problem ,
when one switch is activated for use , both upper lights on both switches come on at the same time.
But the switch being used is doing its job, and the other lights up at the same time even though is not activated
If I remove the switching/ignition wire on one then it wont happen , but yet the one that doesn't have the the switching/ignition wire wont work
btw, the dashlight illuminates the way it's supposed to .
Has anyone else had this problem
Now here is my problem ,
when one switch is activated for use , both upper lights on both switches come on at the same time.
But the switch being used is doing its job, and the other lights up at the same time even though is not activated
If I remove the switching/ignition wire on one then it wont happen , but yet the one that doesn't have the the switching/ignition wire wont work
btw, the dashlight illuminates the way it's supposed to .
Has anyone else had this problem
Re: Carling Switch illumination problem
Got a wiring diagram for the switches ?
Could be that the illumination is independent, so that you can basically pass 12v through it off anything or if it is load dependent, so that the illumination is powered by the load. If that makes sense to you ?
Could be that the illumination is independent, so that you can basically pass 12v through it off anything or if it is load dependent, so that the illumination is powered by the load. If that makes sense to you ?
04 Ford Courier TD
Bye, bye Sierra... :'(
Bye, bye Sierra... :'(
Re: Carling Switch illumination problem
I bought mine from Vanline. Select the rocker switches icon and the wiring diagrams should open up in a PDF file with all the options. What's the product number of the switch you are using and I might be able to help you out. I just finished wiring mine up using an ON/OFF/ON momentary rocker switch #40291RR. It had 10 terminals. I used actuator (switch cover) #421038
1: Winch in. This wire I split. 1 wire to the winch. The other through a diode (one way valve) to run the LED indicator. (terminal 8)
2: 12v (24v) power in.
3: Winch out. This wire I also split. 1 wire to the winch. The other through a seperate diode (one way valve) to run the same LED indicator. (terminal 8)
The diodes stop power backfeeding through the other wire to the winch.
4: Not used
5: Not used
6: Not used
7: LED1 earth
8: LED1 power in (from diodes off terminal 1 and 3. This will light up when switch is activated)
9: LED2 earth
10: LED2 Headlight wire (this lights the LED that I can't see as well as it's at the bottom of the actuator (switch cover). This means it appears more dull so was good for a headlight as when the main LED lights up when switch is on, the light appears brighter.)
When I press forward, the main LED comes on, winch goes out. When I press back, main LED comes on, winch comes in. When I turn headlights on, I get a pale light comming from behind the actuator (switch cover).
I understand you stated the switch you have has only 5 terminals but the numbers seem to be the same (eg: terminal 2 is power in, 3 is power out etc.) LED's work depending on how you wire them up. You can piggy back the power out of the switch to the accesory and run it when the switch is activated or you can wire it up to the headlight so it lights up when the headlights are on.
These switches can be bloody confusing at times but look great and work well. I have 10 of them in my truck so If you have no idea what I'm talking about, take a photo of the switch and terminals on the back.
I am keen to see where you have gone wrong here.
How do you plan on having this wired? I have power coming direct from the battery to an isolation switch. When swith is turned on, the forward/reverse switch is powered.
From what I read in your first post, you have the power to the forward reverse switch coming from the ignition. Personally I'd have this run off a relay but that's me. But as I said, take a photo and tell us what you wish to do and if they're clear enough I should be able to tell you what to stick where.
(Sorry if i sound like I'm talking to a 5 yr old but this stuff is really easy to get confused with)
1: Winch in. This wire I split. 1 wire to the winch. The other through a diode (one way valve) to run the LED indicator. (terminal 8)
2: 12v (24v) power in.
3: Winch out. This wire I also split. 1 wire to the winch. The other through a seperate diode (one way valve) to run the same LED indicator. (terminal 8)
The diodes stop power backfeeding through the other wire to the winch.
4: Not used
5: Not used
6: Not used
7: LED1 earth
8: LED1 power in (from diodes off terminal 1 and 3. This will light up when switch is activated)
9: LED2 earth
10: LED2 Headlight wire (this lights the LED that I can't see as well as it's at the bottom of the actuator (switch cover). This means it appears more dull so was good for a headlight as when the main LED lights up when switch is on, the light appears brighter.)
When I press forward, the main LED comes on, winch goes out. When I press back, main LED comes on, winch comes in. When I turn headlights on, I get a pale light comming from behind the actuator (switch cover).
I understand you stated the switch you have has only 5 terminals but the numbers seem to be the same (eg: terminal 2 is power in, 3 is power out etc.) LED's work depending on how you wire them up. You can piggy back the power out of the switch to the accesory and run it when the switch is activated or you can wire it up to the headlight so it lights up when the headlights are on.
These switches can be bloody confusing at times but look great and work well. I have 10 of them in my truck so If you have no idea what I'm talking about, take a photo of the switch and terminals on the back.
I am keen to see where you have gone wrong here.
How do you plan on having this wired? I have power coming direct from the battery to an isolation switch. When swith is turned on, the forward/reverse switch is powered.
From what I read in your first post, you have the power to the forward reverse switch coming from the ignition. Personally I'd have this run off a relay but that's me. But as I said, take a photo and tell us what you wish to do and if they're clear enough I should be able to tell you what to stick where.
(Sorry if i sound like I'm talking to a 5 yr old but this stuff is really easy to get confused with)
Dave
Re: Carling Switch illumination problem
Iv piggy backed the ignition wire to power both switches, so now im thinking about what you mentioned about back feeding.
Iv also changed my winch solenoid to an Albright , could it be back feeding from that ?
Im going to try using a diode between the two switches.
Iv also changed my winch solenoid to an Albright , could it be back feeding from that ?
Im going to try using a diode between the two switches.
Re: Carling Switch illumination problem
Im not sure about albrights. I wouldn't think it could but as I said, I don't know. I don't think the ignition wire would be the problem. It would be the wire coming out of the switch that is the problem. As I said, a photo could tell us exactly what you've done wrong
Dave
Re: Carling Switch illumination problem
problem fixed
Re: Carling Switch illumination problem
Input + and output + were the wrong way around
well dont I feel stupid:silly:
well dont I feel stupid:silly:
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