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So it's time to replace my '94 Feroza's motor, it's buggered beyond repair. Anyway, so I have an Applause motor ready to go in and have read up on what parts need to be swapped over for it to fit in the Feroza. Intake, sump, pickup etc...
I made some progress this afternoon with removing the 'black box' intake side, the air con, exhaust headers and that long water pipe going along the motor. The headers and aircon are going to stay in the car, and I have secured them. I'm going to attack the other side tomorrow and noticed the wire harness going all around the motor and tucking underneath the intake and over the alternator, looks like it will be a PITA!!
So I was wondering if people who have experience with removing the motor could share any handy tips
I've done the job three times so far.....
The total time should be about 3-4 hours if you are alone....
Hardest part is when you remove the gearbox from the engine.....
The easiest way is to take the whole engine out as one piece and then use the parts you need in the new engine.
You have a lot of freedom and space when working outside the engine bay.
I never took parts of inside the engine bay, always took it out as one piece......
To be able to remove it you should remove watercooler and pipes from and to it, the a/c lines, the air intake, harness, and gearbox.
As for the harness just unplug whatever you can see.... the harness stays in the engine bay, nothing comes out with the motor.....
Must be about 4 plugs at the injectors, one at the throttle, some lines from and to the valves at the rear of the engine bay, two-tree at the rear of the engine (distributor) two in the starter, two for the a/c, and about three for oil and water gauges.... maybe one or two more I'm forgetting now....
If you need any specific pictures say what and I'll probably be able to find some if I search in my albums.....
Just fitting the HD-EG Tomaso in place of a Feroza? All is going well, read a lot about what I should change, retain or swap over. Shannon from NSW has been really helpful in providing lots of support , he is a great young guy, look forward to hearing more about any other Feroza engine swaps also. My email is: hanniver@ncable.net.au
Have 2 Ferozas, keen vehicle modder, do most repairs myself, 62years young, got the Feroza Bug....
I found it easier by undoing the gearbox mounts to allow the gearbox to lift up a bit while pulling the motor up and forward.
Keep the tips coming though, I'm sure it'll be handy for other newbies
Now the challenge of putting the new motor in... was thinking I could move the transmission back, putting the motor in and then moving the gearbox forward. It might be easier this way, because have to mate up the splines.
mrpham wrote:
Now the challenge of putting the new motor in... was thinking I could move the transmission back, putting the motor in and then moving the gearbox forward. It might be easier this way, because have to mate up the splines.
If you lift the rear of the vehicle, and put a gear in the gearbox lets say 4th gear, when turning the wheels by hand the pline axle of the gearbox will rotate giving you a better chance of an easy fit.
Mitsos wrote:
If you lift the rear of the vehicle, and put a gear in the gearbox lets say 4th gear, when turning the wheels by hand the pline axle of the gearbox will rotate giving you a better chance of an easy fit.
The Applause motor doesn't have the oil cooler, so it's recommended to swap it over to the Applause block. Unfortunately you need a very deep socket to be able to reach the nut to remove it....
I was told by the Daihatsu wreckers that I could use the Applause distributor and simply just swap over the distributor cap from the Feroza motor, but this simply isn't true. The rotor buttons are different and the caps aren't interchangeable. Unfortunately my Feroza's distributor is no good....
There are two options:
use the Applause distributor - apparently these are better then the Feroza one, but it's a tighter fit because the leads come out a straight angle. So it will be a pain to access in the future
purchase a Feroza distributor - this is will fit right in an the leads come out at a 90 degree angle so clearance is good, but they aren't as good as the Applause one and are apparently prone to causing pining??
Stick with the Applause dizzy. in my experience, they seem to give less problems with pinging and are easily obtainable form wreckers for much cheaper. Yes, it IS a PITA to change the cap, but it's not impossible and once you've done it once or twice, you get the hang of it.
AJFeroza wrote:Stick with the Applause dizzy. in my experience, they seem to give less problems with pinging and are easily obtainable form wreckers for much cheaper. Yes, it IS a PITA to change the cap, but it's not impossible and once you've done it once or twice, you get the hang of it.
Thanks mate!
Will give that a go then, will save me a bunch of money too.
I was also thinking of ordering a new O-Ring for the distributor, the one that goes over the main shaft bit.
The only significant difference is the Feroza has 90 Degree lead exits which makes it easier to fit.
Mechanicallyl the distributors are identical, Applauses may give less trouuble as the are in many cases newer..... but theres' no reason not to use the Feroza
distributor.
I'd never use one of either without stripping it down and regreaing the advance mechanism bearing - a know problem for both types.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
MightyMouse wrote:Feroza cap will go onto Applause distributor.
The only significant difference is the Feroza has 90 Degree lead exits which makes it easier to fit.
Mechanicallyl the distributors are identical, Applauses may give less trouuble as the are in many cases newer..... but theres' no reason not to use the Feroza
distributor.
I'd never use one of either without stripping it down and regreaing the advance mechanism bearing - a know problem for both types.
Hey mate.
Thanks for the info, I swapped my Feroza cap over the Applause dizzy today and if fits up perfectly. But when spinning the shaft, it makes a light/scraping noise at intervals. Is this just because the contacts on the rotor and cap aren't right for each other, but will eventually work it self out?
Just going to take it day at a time with this one mate - I've run HD's on HC Gear quite a bit in the past - but this was with HC Cam and in a charade, so rev happy was the aim of the game...
Will eventually run it on an aftermarket computer....
ferog wrote:I've had worse smelling fingers though.
The plate that the inductive pickup sits on is supported by a large bearing in the distributor housing.
This is necessary so the mechanism can vacuum advance.
Over the years the grease in this bearing gets hard and attracts crud - meaning the advance doens't work properly.
All thats usually needed is a strip down, clean and re grease. Not rocket science but you do have to take the top half of the distributor apart - so don't dive in unless you have some time and patience.
mark all the bits locations so they all go back as required and if you take the inductive pickup of its plate make sure you get the clearance right when you put it back.
Too narrow and it will rub and damage itself, too wide and it can be hard to start .
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
I just finished doing this applause motor into feroza over the weekend.
As for the engine, almost NOTHING is the same between the 2 motors.
The only thing that I can think of that I didn't have to swap apart from the block and head was the little single male spade temp sensor on the back of the head.
Items that you may not have thought of that do have to be swapped are:
* Thermostat Housing
* Housing that top radiator house goes onto at back of head
* dipstick
* 2 pin sensor on back of head
* waterpump
* Spigot bearing (Applause motor doesn't have one) You can get this from any bearing shop. I think it was a 6901 (cost me $5.00)
* And all the stuff already mentioned.
* Doesn't sound like too much but it is a time consuming thing to do especially as you want to clean everything as you go.
I toyed with the idea of leaving the applause inlet manifold on but I'm really glad i didn't as it would've been heaps more of a headache. TPS connector was different and vacuum hose outlets on throttle body were different.
When i finished bolting everything up and plugging everything in, I turned the key for abour 4 seconds and it started and ran beautifully!
