buying a sierra

[loosecanon]

Hi all,

Im a Cruiser man, but am looking into building a sierra as my next project for the missus, it needs to be register'd or just about to be, but have been reading about these for a couple of days at work now. so my question is:

what is the sort after model, (if you could have youre pick again what model) what are the common mod's for the model, and what are the problems to look for?
i guess if you were to look for another sierra what is preferred.

this is for the missus, so it can't be to crazy, even though i want it to be resonable capable for when i drive it, but my cook doesn't want it to be lyk my truck were i keep getting pulled over and live in the shed,

P.S. yea i have searched for threads but nothing has come up yet so if you just want to add a thread that would be ample. oh and price would be $4000 -$7000 but money isn't a massive issue at this point.

Loose

[v840]

Read on McDuff: http://carl.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopi ... =7&t=48714" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

It comes down to legalities, what you want out of the vehicle, and how many pics of the wife you post.

Aim for a widetrack and stay away from coilys if you want to mod it, and get the most rust free example you can find. But mainly, read the bible, soooo much info there. Then come back with specific questions and we'll help you out.

[loosecanon]

quick reply!!!!!!!!

so wide track and leaf!! ok didn't pick that, is there a reason for not going coil?? and while youre on here whats this RUF thing i keep reading about. yea i had a flick through the bible, but wanted or suzie fans opinion's cause sometime the papper does lie, you guys are the one who have lived and breathed and want to learn from you mistakes if i can.

cheers

[tags]

hey man RUF is rear springs up front the point of this is well the rear springs are longer and will able to to have more flex ..if ur going to plan of doing RUF do it with hilux leafs or soemthing like that ..like the others have said there is a lot of info so keep the Qs comin ..also reasion for not going coily zook is well its harder to get bits for suspension wise ..also u could always keep leaf sprung zook and turn it into a colily .later ..but thats alot of work ..all depends what u want to do with it ..zooks will basicly go anywhere u want anyways ..

[loosecanon]

ok cheers yea that would make sense with the ruf, now with the hilux leafs is there a particular model hilux that is best to use?? i always thought suzie owners always put hilux diff's in, but if i get the Wide Track maybe that wouldn't matter? (im guessing change of diffs is for width just the same as my 40) you guys seem to be able to put anything under it... now two more questions to keep you thinking,

i notice alot of people using earlier models as apposed to early 90's, is there a preference on the year? they seem to be much the same,
and engines from what i can see 1.6 vitara engine, how does the 1.3 power along? any other common conversions,

like i said im looking for a great play toy, my cook (missus) is getting pretty into cars after watching me build my 45 so sky is the limit if i convince her, but needs to be stable on the road, i don't want to put her or anyone else in danger, she already scares me enough hahaha.

sorry to ask so many q's but i only get time at work so i don't get a huge amount of time read full link's so a bit of direction from you guys will save me days

cheers
loose

[GRPABT1]

Hilux diffs aren't needed for the level of modification you'd be after. Just a quality 2 inch spring lift (with or without ruf depending on your effort level), 2 inch body lift and maybe some guard work depending on the tyre size you want. Then add some transfer gears to suit the tyre's and a locker or two and your missus will be driving past your forty.
Look into an engine swap either vitara 1.6 or GTi 1.3 if you plan to do much highway or daily driving.

But get her to drive it stock standard first as a worked sierra can often be more capable than the average driver off road.

[loosecanon]

driven past my 40 haha!!! she has to learn how to drive yet (propely anyway) ok standard WT are not bad stock then.
I guess the only question now is is there a prefered model, ( year, engine ect ect) as ive been looking around and have got most of the money together now, plus it's christmas soon,

cheers
loose

[loosecanon]

oh sh*t is there a way i can delete the previous message my cook will read it and see that i said she can't drive and im in for it tonight!!! ahahahaha

[supazuk]

i would actually buy a narrow track sierra because it is cheap to stick WT diffs in and
then it will flex great. NT sierras are heaps cheaper as well.
if you can find a 1.0 or 1.3 LWB NT sierra with a few cheap mods it will out-wheel most cars.

[loosecanon]

ok so start with a NT, is this cost worthy to do the conversion at a later date? and are the easy enough to come by WT diffs? so year isn't a paticular preferance, and im guessing the 1.3 is the prefered engine, unless it has common breakages?

im working on convincing he missus on cutting it to a ute. wish me luck

[supazuk]

ok so start with a NT, is this cost worthy to do the conversion at a later date? and are the easy enough to come by WT diffs? so year isn't a paticular preferance, and im guessing the 1.3 is the prefered engine, unless it has common breakages?

im working on convincing he missus on cutting it to a ute. wish me luck

buy a ute then.

a pair of wt diffs should cost around $500 with the drag link. both the 1.0 and 1.3 are great motors
as long as the gearing is correct.
i tow a lot of weight with a 1.3 with no dramas.

[loosecanon]

don't get me wrong, but i don't realy like the look of that ute, i'd rather put my bender to use and do a cut and build the tray, which yes i could i could do to the ute, but to be honest i haven't seen on for sale before, so im not sure i would go chasing one, but then again i still gotta convice the cook first, as she wants the short wheel base.

[V.W.Dave]

WT leafy, 2" lift, 2"BL, 31s as little rust as possible Look to pay around $4500 for a really well built in good nic . You can find stocks for as little as $500 without rego. Just be sure to check rust spots like around doors, around tailgate seal, floors under seats, around front window. If you find one with EFI look to pay an extra $800 to $1200 but well worth every cent if it was done correctly. 1.3GTI engines are better then the carbys but not great. look for a vitara or balino 1.6.

Every one is going to have different ideas as we all use them differently.

[loosecanon]

so you think go the WT first up. i had a read of the process to Swap a NT to a WT in the bible, sounds easy enough, so why by a NT? is there any benifit of it?
yea ive been looking around at the engine conversions, there are a lot to choose from,

so next question is what are the problems to look for when buying, obviously rust ect. ect. but what the common spots, and common problems that are easy to miss. E.G. the old 40 series are very common to rust the cross member under the radiator support, and if you didn't know to look, its easy to miss.

cheers to you all for youre help, oh and ill ask the cook if im aloud to post a pick for youre rewards.

Loose

[Gwagensteve]

If you are looking at a hardtop, look for cracks and rust repairs at the base of the A pillars, around the windscreen and around the gutters.

If you are looking at a soft top, look for rust around the windscreen, the the floor in the footwells and the floor around the rear wheel arches, and in the cowl. Rust in the cowl is a fair show stopper - the other places aren't such a big deal to fix.

To check the cowl, check for visible rust (or evidence of a recent repair) around the windscreen hinges. The best way to check though is to fold the windscreen. The rust often starts under the windscreen frame once the foam seal between the two gets wet and degrades.

Cutting down SWB soft tops into traybacks is dumb. There is no real advantage and lots of disadvantages, mostly that the load area gets high increasing the centre of gravity, load area is smaller, and then result usually look s like a bit of a bastardised mess. If you are willing to stretch the wheelbase substantially at the same time it might end up looking more balanced and climbing better, but it will still have a higher centre of gravity than a standard styleside and that's a bad idea.

I don't know how handy you are with a welder and fabrication, but here's some thoughts about the WT v NT thing.

If you buy a narrow track, you have to find a pair of WT axles, and move the spring perches in. That's not always easy as it also involves sorting some brake lines, drag link etc. (WT drag links are extra hard to find)

If you buy a WT, you can move the spring perches inwards to match NT width in (about) a busy weekend's worth of work, and apart from a longer U bolt for the driver's side front, you don't have to buy anything - all the advantages of the NT without having to pay potentially a king's ransom for two diff housings and four axles, which is all you really need (as diff centres interchange)

Personally, I prefer LWB Sierras, but It's not that much of an issue. for the LWB to be a significant advantage, you have to be driving very steep tracks and/or want to run strange engine/gearbox combinations.

I'd just buy a 1988-1995 WT Swb soft top and do a nice basic build. I wouldn't even bother with swapping the spring spacing to narrow track unless you were planning really big tyres, as the difference in travel isn't all that much.

As for the engine side of it, make sure the stock engine is healthy and well tuned, and then to start with sort the gearing to suit tyre size. a bigger engine won't really compensate for bad gearing. then you can assess the need for a replacement motor as a separate issue instead of hoping it will fix other (gearing) problems.

Steve.

[V.W.Dave]

N/T with W/T diffs will have a "little" more flex then a W/T but that is only because the springs are a little more inbord. You will find N/T are a little cheaper. Other then that the W/T is a better choice all around. They are younger and in that less likly to have as much rust. In the future if you end up putting Hilux or other diffs under it its less work to move the springs hangers around. You dont have to find W/T diffs to go under it as they will already be there. In age they engine if a stocko will be newer. The W/T already has the flairs to cover 31s W/T you have to get them or make them.
Honestly in all likelyhood they are the same thing just one is older then the other. For the right price either of them are awsome little rides.

As I have already said if I was looking for a daily driver I would be looking for a 95ish W/T on 31s with 2"bl 2"springs and Efi, I wouldnt pay more then $5000 but would be looking to pick one up around $4000

If your interested I know where there is a very well built LWB try back 2"BL, RUF, with Efi, hilux diffs, 4.88 ratios, 33s BFG muds, 6.5-1s transfer gearing with Auto trans all enganeered and bluesliped going for $5500 on the central coast of NSW. Its in mickey mouse condition and If i had the money I would jump on it but I am strapped with my build.

[GRPABT1]

The springs are inboard in line with the chassis rail on the NT hence when you change to WT diffs they can flex easier due to more leverage and also have more tyre clearance before hitting the spring.

But IMO the difference in driveline parts makes it not worth it, especially for a first vehicle. If you plan on doing alot of work and motor swaps, re-welding spring perches on the WT diffs to suit NT spacing etc then yeah got for NT. But I thought this was for your wife? You starting to think about trading the 40?

[Ridge]

If the car is going to be a daily driver, and be used in the bush occasionally don't go crazy with mods.
When you do get one drive it stock for awhile. See where you can go, then mod it to get you further.

Coilys are more comfortable as a dd. The only difference between them and the leafys is
you can't get chromo axles and cvs or front lockers. The stock coily transfer is chain driven so you cant get gears,
but you can easily swap a leafy transfer case in.

[supazuk]

hay Gwagensteve, drag links, both nt and wt, are available new for around $115 delivered,

[V.W.Dave]

hay Gwagensteve, drag links, both nt and wt, are available new for around $115 delivered,

Where from Shep?

[loosecanon]

cheers guys

thanks heaps for the advise, it's exactly what i was looking for, well im chasing a WT 1.3ltr. and i think the first things i will be looking at will be, gears, 31"tyres and suspension, and take it from there.

one last silly question, anyway to tell a WT from a NT just by looking (say if it was driving past)

Thanks heaps fellaz i guys this is why i keep coming back to this site.

loose

[Ridge]

WTs have the metal flares, and the spring mounts are out-boarded from the chassis a little.
NTs have a rubber flare and the spring mounts are inline with the chassis rails

[supazuk]

hay Gwagensteve, drag links, both nt and wt, are available new for around $115 delivered,

Where from Shep?

bottom of the page
http://www.bbmmotorsports.com.au/sierra_2.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

i was wrong on the price. its $93 for the drag link and $135 for a tie rod.

[weaves]

one last silly question, anyway to tell a WT from a NT just by looking (say if it was driving past)

At a quick glance i would say colour coded flares are WT, black plastic ones are NT.

Also the indicator on the front clip is a give away, if its back toward the door its WT, and if the indicator is at the front its NT.

weaves

[Gwagensteve]

hay Gwagensteve, drag links, both nt and wt, are available new for around $115 delivered,

Where from Shep?

bottom of the page
http://www.bbmmotorsports.com.au/sierra_2.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I was wrong on the price. its $93 for the drag link and $135 for a tie rod.

Based on the prices of their other factory parts, I'd say that was non genuine. Stock drag links bend easily enough, I'm not sure I'd trust a non genuine one.

Steve.

PS The easiest way (apart from the flares) to pick a NT sierra are the round dash vents. Not the best photos, but you get the idea.

NT Dash:



WT Dash (This one has been painted black)

[supazuk]

hay Gwagensteve, drag links, both nt and wt, are available new for around $115 delivered,

Where from Shep?

bottom of the page
http://www.bbmmotorsports.com.au/sierra_2.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I was wrong on the price. its $93 for the drag link and $135 for a tie rod.

Based on the prices of their other factory parts, I'd say that was non genuine. Stock drag links bend easily enough, I'm not sure I'd trust a non genuine one.

Steve.

PS The easiest way (apart from the flares) to pick a NT sierra are the round dash vents. Not the best photos, but you get the idea.

NT Dash:


WT Dash (This one has been painted black)

maruti so is suzuki. i will bet its the same as what ya get from suzuki.

[GRPABT1]

I bent my stock drag link and now run a BBM one which seems to be holding up better than the stock one.

[boosted brick]

Thats a decent price for a drag link, i payed $115 for my new one plus $176 for a tierod.

IMHO, ive not owned my sierra for very long but it was bloody capable stock.. My springs were pretty shagged, but they offerd alot of flex. I took it wheeling with a lifted, locked MQ on 35s, and for the most part i could go where he went. The overall lack of height held me back in the end but it was still very capable. With set of 2 inch springs, and extended shackles i gained 4.5inchs worth of lift, goes great now!!

[loosecanon]

hey bosted brick what have you got, is it NT or WT? what did you pay?

[boosted brick]

Its a 91 WT.. Payed $2700, needed a new set of headlights for roadworthy. Only mods were 2inch bodylift and bucket seats. The lack of rust is what made me go with it, some others i looked at were better equiped but rusty.