1Kz-TE conversion into a 1982 4x4 single cab

[aussiebloke_83]

gday guys.

i am new to to the whole forum thing so i amn ot sure on how this all works just yet?

but any way, i am in need of some serious advise.

i have just finished getting me lux all straighten and resprayed. was wanting something decent to place in it. so i thought i would buy a 1kz-te and place it in there. now i am in need of some tech advise if so one else has done a conversion of the 1kz-te, i would be most pleased to hear from you?

cheers guy

[ferrit]

What do you want to know?

Its not a cheap conversion- Dont expect change from $10K to do it right. Easiest way to get EVERYTHING you need is be patient and track down a halfcut from japan of a KZN130 surf. I bought one through rolin imports, cost me $6200 delivered to Adelaide from their warehouse in Brisbane.

I got a 1993 KZN130 surf half cut with 90,000kms on the clock.

You will need:

Better radiator: The stock brass one is definately a jap spec one and will struggle to keep a 1KZ-TE cool in Aussie climates. I wedged a KZN165 hilux (2000 model) into mine, but without a body lift it hangs bout 2" below the chassis... need to build a bash plate for that soon!)
Solid fly wheel and new clutch: The Surfs run a dual mass flywheel, which is generally good for around 100-120K kms, then they fail. Cant be machined and cost a motza. Got a solid flywheel and clutch to suit for $1000 from ABS brakes.
Bigger fuel lines: The factory turbo vehicles run a 12mm feed/ 8mm return fuel line, the non turbo 2.8D i had uses 8/8mm, and fuel starvation CAN be an issue... Mines a pig to start cold because I didnt replace the fuel line. Get some bundy line and beg/borrow/steal a bender and flare tool and just replicate the feed line in 12mm. Look at possibly getting a surf pickup for the tank too.

IF you intend to keep the old gear drive transfer (surfs have an electric one) then you'll need an adaptor plate. I used an Advance Adaptors one from Marks and ive been EXTREMELY unimpressed with it. Straight out of the box, the seals supplied didnt fit, and even with new ones from CBC im still getting transfer issues through from gearbox to transfer. Go the Marlin ones from Locktup- same price.

This is specific to an LN106 hilux (1992), but to get the 1KZ into mine, i had to move my engine mounts BACK around 57mm, the further back you can get the engine, the better as radiator -> fan clearance on mine is very tight. You may need to dick around with the crossmember to get the engine right back, or fabricate your own to suit.

Wiring is the fun bit- you can probably isolate out and transfer the engine control wiring into your truck, with the 106 series truck, i just swapped the whole loom and then changed the fuel and LH indicator circuits to suit the hilux rear body wiring. ECU needs a pick up from a speedo , NOT the speedo drive on the gearbox, so you might have to make an electronic speedo fit if yours is a cable drive one.

Last thing is exhaust- Get a custom dump pipe made up for it, and 3" mandrel. really helps the truck breathe well, and its the only way your going to get the engines exhaust to clear the solid axle.

On clearance- Ive still got ongoing issues with Sump-> Diff clearance. Its clearanced itself, but not a good situation really. Only three real options to fix this:

1) Weld on bump stop extensions to stop the axle being able to rise as far under full compression
2) Fabricate your own sump to suit
3) Track down a sump from a 'never ever delivered in australia, and rare in new zealand' 1KZ-TE Powered 70 series with the factory solid axle. Last time i checked, i knew of ONE in a wreckers in adelaide, but he wouldnt break up the motor to sell the sump.

[aussiebloke_83]

gday guys

thank you ferrit that is some usefull advice

donner surf
i have a 1994 hilux surf lined up. has the 1kz-te engine, 5 speed manual gear box and transfer case, all the running gear, wiring loom, ecu,

engine clearances
the big thing i was worried about is whether the engine is actually going to physically fit in the engine bay. was hopeing that some one had some photos or even a video of that engine fitting in an early model hilux? does doin a suspemsion lift help with these clearance issues. sump to diff?

engine location
i am hopeing that the location on the engine is not goin to be to much of a hassel. as i had some advice from a guy that has done afew conversions and he said that i dont have to move the orginal engine mounts. as i am able to make adaptors to suit the required location and i am able to move it up to 100mm in any direction without having any troubles with roadworthy. so hopefuly that is not an issue.

wiring
will be a slight issue but not overly to major as the 1982 hilux does not have many electronics to wire up so most of the wrirng will be by passed hopefully. the speedo and tacko is the only thing i will be worried about. i have both wiring looms ( from the surf and the 1982 hilux) so hopefully with some assistance from an auto elec it should be all good. all the elctrics from the surf will be used from, the key barrel to the starter motor to the battery terminals.

running gear
was really wanting to use the whole running gear off the surf apart from the indepent suspension. i do like the less maintence and less hassel of having solid axles front and rear. so the trasfer issue should not be there really. will just have to get some custom drive shaft made to suit the new lenght required. so will still be able to use all the electics for the surf one for the tranfer. is that what you ment by? will just have to do alot of double cheaking with engine location and gear knob location, and making sure that everything is square. using the surf transfer will if give me many issue chossing between 2 and 4 wheel drive. is it still a manual stick shift system or is it elctronic? as i have notice there is a button on the side of the 4wd stick, what is that for?

plumping
beakes and fuel lines will be needing all new one any way as there is none on the 1982 hilux and would like to replace the one off the surf with new ones. so going larger is the way to go hey?

exhaust
will definatly be goin to get a 3 inch straight throu mandrel system. what does the dump pipe actually do?


clutch
what is the difference between the dual mass flywheel and a solid flywheel and clutch like you got?

thankyou again ferrit for some insights. hope you can asnwer more of those questions.

[brad 93hilux]

The engine will fit in the engine bay..

Just a word of advice with your posting, try to set the writing out a little clearer.
In your section you have running gear, alot of the words/ sentences are jumbled up into one huge paragraph, this is very hard to understand...

In regards to the question about the transfer, you can run the surf electronic transfer but the reason ferret has got the adaptor and has put a gear drive transfer is so he can run crawler gears.

The dump pipe is the down pipe that comes off the turbo and runs down the firewall to the exhaust.

Duel mass flywheel AFAIK is a two piece fly wheel, and as listed by ferret, will need to be changed.

EDIT: i would probably check with a engineer about making adaptors on the engine mounts, this does not sound right. It would be always trying to twist them and i could not see them lasting long (correct me if i am wrong )

Hope that helps
Brad

[aussiebloke_83]

gday guys.

thank you brad.

sorry if my word are not making sense. not a great communicater. more handy with my hands. hehe. i will try and make my sentences more clearer.

in regards to the electronic transfer, i will not be wanting to place rock crawler gears on mine.

you said that i will have to charge the Duel mass flywheel. what is the advantages of having a solid one? is it stronger? is it much work to change? can you give me some more advice in which products to look into? what is the best, the worst?

sorry if i seem like i am being annoying, just would like to get all the facts so i can get the best product when i am finished the overhaul. the last few hiluxs i have had, i have always had to replace the clutch. not wanting this problem. would like to get it right the first go.

the main use i will be using the hilux for is work, i am a tradie and would normal either be towing a trailer or having the back of the ute loaded with gear. always travelling about 500 klms to 1000 klms a week.

in regards to the engine mounts. i have not doubled checked with the qld transport but that is one of the many things on my list to do.

was wondering, do you guys know of any one making a 6 spped gear box that suits the 1kz-te.a mate has a new ranger, and it has a 6 speed manual gear box. it drives really nice and was wondering if they made one for this engine?


cheers guys

[thrashlux]

i have put a 1KZ into a 92 lux and i had to fab engine mounts to make it fit it sat too far forward on the std 3l mounts

your truck is a 82 single cab but you fail to mention if its 4 or 5 speed
if its 4 speed you will need new driveshafts and crossmember

it will be quite a tight fit as the engine bay is a fair bit shorter than all the other models you may need to do something with the fan ie front mount an elec fan
best just to put it in sit it back in the engine bay as far as you can then fab up all the mounts
i made new mounts for the engine that bolted to the original chassis mounts so no chassis welding was required

wiring
you have to options
1) fit the entire loom from the donor truck including instrument cluster
-this will not be easy as your dash and truck is very different to the doner truck

2) fit a custom loom made just to run the engine
-this is what i did it has its own fuse box just for the engine leaving all the rest of the wiring stock this way you run your original cable speedo and dash you can run a 4cl petrol tacho even an after market one if you like

if you like i can make you a loom like this
where are you located?
i could make your mounts as well and have them engineered in qld

6 speed
i think you could use the six speed man from a late model prado but i think you will get a rude shock at the price when you find one

jonathan

[brad 93hilux]

Fly wheel- words above from ferret sum it up
"The Surfs run a dual mass flywheel, which is generally good for around 100,000-120,000 kms, then they fail. Cant be machined and cost a motza."

[xr393]

I've done this conversion in my 82 ln46. I used a kzn130 motor, gearbox and loom. The radiator came out of a hj75 with a 3f fan on the stock fan hub trimmed to clear.
The engine mounts where just cut off and rewelded back on to suit. The gearbox mount is for an auto kzn130 with the bolt on mount modified to suit.
I got a auto sparky to do the loom for me, he kept my original loom and used the surf loom for the motor and transfer case.
Hope some of this helps. It's not a cheap conversion but i'm more than happy with it.

[ferrit]

Fly wheel- words above from ferret sum it up
"The Surfs run a dual mass flywheel, which is generally good for around 100,000-120,000 kms, then they fail. Cant be machined and cost a motza."

Pretty much this- The good thing is that unlike the 3.0L patrols, the surf dual mass flywheel isnt fluid filled, its got springs in it. What generally happens is the springs fail, break and then the rattle drives you up the wall for a bit, then the flywheel fails and the centre bit no longer turns with the outer bit!

a 95 series prado flywheel will fit too if you want to go the 2nd hand route, then use a prado clutch.

The kit i fitted was a Clutch Pro Kit, bought through ABS brake service. Rang em up, told them i had a KZN130 surf with a dud dual mass, wanted to go to a solid flywheel and they got the right kit in. Was just under $1000 for flywheel and cluch. The flywheel is a monster though- its AS thick as the dual mass, and solid steel- 37kg. we fitted it BEFORE it went into the car and it took three of us to get it on- two to hold it up either side of the block and a third to knock it on with a rubber mallet. I'd hate to have to do it underneath a vehicle!

Transfer:
The only issue with using the electronic transfer case is you need to "Fool" the transfer computer into thinking the front diff is actually engaged- Surfs run the ADD system, which disconects one side of the front diff with a vaccum system, and has two sensors on it- One to tell when the diff is actually engaged and one that i believe is an oil temp sensor for the front diff. The transfer computer gets a signal from the 4wd button, checks to see if the diff oil is within temp spec (really cold climates would suffer i guess) and tells the front diff to engage- you'll find the vaccum solenoids for this on the surf under the brake booster. The diff sensor then tells the computer that the diff is locked in, and the computer then uses the shift motor on the transfer to engage 4wd within the transfer.

Its a really complicated system that meant you didnt have to get out and lock the hubs in.

Dump Pipe:
The stock cast dump pipe off the back of the turbo is REALLY restrictive. As in taking a leaf blower and putting a garden hose adaptor on it levels of restrictive. It hinders the turbo flow, so it takes longer for the turbo to spool up and it doesnt spool up as low in the rev range. Theres a few options to fix it- EngTek make a dump pipe for a KZN130, but theyre asking $500+ for one now i believe, and its probably not suitable for your application- Surfs are all IFS and the off the shelf dump pipes are designed for that, not solid axles.

The way i went about doing it was i got the exhaust shop to make me one when they did the full exhaust- the got a flange to suit the CT-12b turbo from Pacemaker ($40) and then welded up a dump to suit the hilux, then bolted teh 3" exhaust to the back of it. cost me $1040 for the dump pipe, flange, 3" mandrel, flex joint, 4 flange joints and a high flow muffler.

Suspension:
A lift helps a bit, as in it stops it knocking EVERY time you go over a bump, but it will still impact when you totally bottom the front end out- i did most of my sump damage in the sand dunes. Took out the steering damper too.... As said earlier, replacement sump or bump stop extensions are the only real options. The L series sumps will NOT fit the KZ series block.

Wiring:
A stand alone loom is a good solution, but be aware- the surf runs an electronic speedo pick up and electronic speedo on the dash, and the ECU requires a signal from the dash speedo to acurately determine the fueling and injection timing and engine running- I ran mine with it unplugged (was too short with the hilux transfer!) and the black smoke the 1KZ made put the old 2.8D to shame!

There is also an air temp sensor in the top cover of the airbox thats required to run the engine properly. Off the top of my head, the ecu gets feeds from:

Crank Angle Sensor
Water Temp Sensor
Fuel Temp Sensor
Mass Air Pressure Sensor (Boost pressure)
Barometer (in ECU itself)
Air Inlet Temp sensor
Speed Sensor
Injector pump has at least 2 other sensors too.
First gear lockout- The ECU reduces fueling to keep the torque down in first gear so you dont shred the R151F gearbox too fast.

The only issues ive had with mine since the conversion was the original surf radiator and fan couldnt keep her cool on really hot days, so i fitted a 10 blade fan from a 2000 3.0D hilux and a radiator from a 2001 3.0TD hilux. I also destroyed my R151F by tearing the input gears apart on the freeway in 5th, so an R150F from an aussie spec hilux is under it now. Theres the fluid transfer issue because of the marks adaptor plate between gearbox and transfer, and my air temp sensor fell out once and let a heap of dust past the filter. its glued in with RTV silicone now!

[thrashlux]

Transfer:
The only issue with using the electronic transfer case is you need to "Fool" the transfer computer into thinking the front diff is actually engaged- Surfs run the ADD system, which disconects one side of the front diff with a vaccum system, and has two sensors on it- One to tell when the diff is actually engaged and one that i believe is an oil temp sensor for the front diff. The transfer computer gets a signal from the 4wd button, checks to see if the diff oil is within temp spec (really cold climates would suffer i guess) and tells the front diff to engage- you'll find the vaccum solenoids for this on the surf under the brake booster. The diff sensor then tells the computer that the diff is locked in, and the computer then uses the shift motor on the transfer to engage 4wd within the transfer.

Its a really complicated system that meant you didnt have to get out and lock the hubs in.

when i use the elec transfer case i make my own control box that has no electronics all it has a is a couple of relays and an engage disengage switch that directly drives the actuator
it is completely simple and standalone with no spooky electronics

Wiring:
A stand alone loom is a good solution, but be aware- the surf runs an electronic speedo pick up and electronic speedo on the dash, and the ECU requires a signal from the dash speedo to acurately determine the fueling and injection timing and engine running- I ran mine with it unplugged (was too short with the hilux transfer!) and the black smoke the 1KZ made put the old 2.8D to shame!

There is also an air temp sensor in the top cover of the airbox thats required to run the engine properly. Off the top of my head, the ecu gets feeds from:

Crank Angle Sensor
Water Temp Sensor
Fuel Temp Sensor
Mass Air Pressure Sensor (Boost pressure)
Barometer (in ECU itself)
Air Inlet Temp sensor
Speed Sensor
Injector pump has at least 2 other sensors too.
First gear lockout- The ECU reduces fueling to keep the torque down in first gear so you dont shred the R151F gearbox too fast.

when using the standalone loom you dont need to run the electronic speedo
i obtain the speed signal from the reed switch (factory fitted to ln and rn 46) in the cable drive speedos much less hassle and keeps everything original
all the sensors mentioned are also incorporated in the standalone loom

[aussiebloke_83]

gday guys.

thank you for all the advice.

all of these tech tips are really making me scaried about doin this conversaion. but i am still goin to do it, and finish my ideas. really want to do it, to be the only one of these in my area.

thrashlux.
do you have an email address so i can in contact with in regards to some of the mounts and wiring looms you were talkin about. i am liking that idea of having the two different looms, one for the engine, and another for all the factor wiring. with the wiring i have a decent auto elec that has done afew wiring things for us, so would more then likle ask him to give me a hand doin that. you asked if it was a 4 or 5 speed. i am not 100% sure but can guess it was a factory 4 speed manual. where did you get your engine mount engineered? i am located on the sunshine coast, north bris, qld.

xr393.
would you be able to post me some pics of the engine bay. and if you dont mind sharin how much it cost you for the conversaion?
what sort of fuel mileage do you get out of it?
what size are the tyres you are running?

ferrit.
where did you get your gear box from?
how much did it cost?
was it recon one?
did you need to trade your one it?

cheers.
really like how helpfully you guys are being. thank you

[ferrit]

ferrit.
where did you get your gear box from?
how much did it cost?
was it recon one?
did you need to trade your one it?

I got my SECOND box from Oriental 4wd Wreckers in Adelaide, Cost Me $1200 with 110,000kms on the clock, 2nd hand from a wreck, and i couldnt trade my old one in.


Those,

From there went all the way through the gearbox and destroyed pretty much everything. I got $100 for the cases and other bits from a gearbox rebuilder for box of metal.

[xr393]

Yeah no probs.
Give us a couple of days and i'll get back to you.

[coilylux]

I have done the same conversion but into a LN106

i used a KZN130 half cut

i 100% removed the LN106 wiring and dash
used the dash and wiring from the half cut
i made a extension lead from the passenger side to the drivers side so the rear lights and fuel sender would work....

to fit the motor in i cut the engine mounts off the chassis and bolted them to the motor, i placed the motor in place mount the X member to the transfer then onto the chassis then marked out where the engine mounts sat pulled everything out and welded..

i wanted to use the gear driven transfer so i bought the 4.7 gears, adapter, top shift conversion and creepy twin sticks from locktup. the tail shaft between the transfer and the center bearing had to be shortened and the front one had to be lengthen.. when am out wheeling its sooooo awesome... sometimes i forget that am driving the lux

to keep it cool i used the KZN130 radiator got the auto cooler removed from the bottom tank.. works fine even towing my buggy with the aircon on...
to keep the auto temps under control i bought a B&M mega cooler its got a fan on the back that kicks in at 80deg thats mounted under the tray and using full synthetic oil that has helped a LOT!!! the hottest i can get it now is 100deg....

ive got a intercooler, dp chip and a 3in exhaust the car flys now... sitting on the hwy with buggy in tow cruises at 120 and on the hume hwy it gets out of overdrive once...

i did all the work my self it cost me appox $7000.. the half cost me $3500 alone with 10000kms on the clock


very happy with it!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[aussiebloke_83]

hey guys.

i have been a busy boy with gettin the engine and gear box all squared up and welded in. i have got it all sorted and am about half way just need to weld up the front engine mounts and i will be all good.

just wondering if anyone has a good engineer in north brisbane/ sunshine coast qld area? able to come out and have a look at what i have done and even give me some advise in how things should be done, would also be good.

afew other items i have been wondering about,

does anyone know some one good to get some drive shafts, either alter mine or get some new ones made?

diff clearance, is there a min travel distance i have to have, distance between diff to sump? i know that i will have to do some custom bump stops, but was wondering if there is a ruleing in the qld regulation?

is it hard to place a/c into the ln46 as it doesnt have a/c?

is it hard to place power steering into the ln 46 as it doesnt have power steering?

i also have some pics to show what i have done. how do i add them onto my post.

cheers guys.

[bj on roids]

hey guys.

i have been a busy boy with gettin the engine and gear box all squared up and welded in. i have got it all sorted and am about half way just need to weld up the front engine mounts and i will be all good.

just wondering if anyone has a good engineer in north brisbane/ sunshine coast qld area? able to come out and have a look at what i have done and even give me some advise in how things should be done, would also be good.

afew other items i have been wondering about,

does anyone know some one good to get some drive shafts, either alter mine or get some new ones made?

diff clearance, is there a min travel distance i have to have, distance between diff to sump? i know that i will have to do some custom bump stops, but was wondering if there is a ruleing in the qld regulation?

is it hard to place a/c into the ln46 as it doesnt have a/c?

is it hard to place power steering into the ln 46 as it doesnt have power steering?

i also have some pics to show what i have done. how do i add them onto my post.

cheers guys.

For the pics you can start a photobucket account, load the pics there and post the image tags here.

http://www.photobucket.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[xr393]

Hey mate, glad to see you're going ahead with the conversion.
Here are those pics you wanted (sorry about the delay, i got side tracked by a few things)





With the tyres i run 10r 33's for on the road and Krawlers 35's for the fun stuff. With 4.88 gears in the diffs i find it works quite well for on road performance with the 33's and in low range the off idle torque of the 1kz works really well with the 35's.
Like everyone else, I could do this conversion now alot cheaper than what it has cost me but a ball park figure is $8000.
I've got no idea on economy because i've never worried about it so i can't help you there.
Good luck with the build

Steve