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i am having some dramas with the mav, and i have been told that my body mount rubbers are shaggis. so, i put it to the community. are they? and i have read alot about this cracked floorpan mounting where the body mounts are. and i have noticed some (well what i think is cracking) but i am unsure. so i put it to you, do they just need replacing, or is there something more serious. the mav has 260K or so on the clock.
Bingham wrote:At dennis fergo's funeral will they be saying what a great bloke!
sprungupcruiser wrote:you're like the herpes of the fabrication business.
and finaly, the rubber boot around my clutch is torn, is this a proble that i shuld sort out, or is there something behid it that still keeps the shit out?
And finaly, i recently purchased some Superious GQ +10mm Lower rear control arms for my lift, and it looks as though one of the bushes has popped out. is this the case? and is it easy to fix, or will i have to take it back to superior?
Bingham wrote:At dennis fergo's funeral will they be saying what a great bloke!
sprungupcruiser wrote:you're like the herpes of the fabrication business.
It wouldn't hurt to replace the boot, it wouldn't cost much.
I'd take the arms back to superior. Superior in my opinion seem to think they are king shit so I'd take them back and show them how good they really are.
Those bushes in the lower rear arms are pressed in - theres no way they should move like that, especially not the whole steel sleeve.
Did you end up getting a lift kit? If so, did you get adjustable sway bars? Also, have you checked that the lower rear arms are orientated the right way, as the ends are slightly off-set (hard to see it, but they are).
coxy321 wrote:Those bushes in the lower rear arms are pressed in - theres no way they should move like that, especially not the whole steel sleeve.
Did you end up getting a lift kit? If so, did you get adjustable sway bars? Also, have you checked that the lower rear arms are orientated the right way, as the ends are slightly off-set (hard to see it, but they are).
yeah, i got a 3" flexi kit. it rocks. and thats what i thought about the bush. will get it back there asap. and yes, they are orientated corectly, as i matched them to the originals before fitment. and i have adjustable panhards and draglink. so, its not comming from there. i also had my steering alligned, and the shaked i had were gone, but are now back GRRRRRRRRRR. new everything inder there, and all the wheels are balanced.
cheers
jbates58
Bingham wrote:At dennis fergo's funeral will they be saying what a great bloke!
sprungupcruiser wrote:you're like the herpes of the fabrication business.
castor bushes in he arms. and i had no shakes, then after an offroad session, they came back. and its hot the wheel balance, as i took my 31's and changed them there, and then changed back to them.
Bingham wrote:At dennis fergo's funeral will they be saying what a great bloke!
sprungupcruiser wrote:you're like the herpes of the fabrication business.
You might find (as 99% of us do) that after going offroad and squashing/bending/hammering on bushes, this is when they're going to fail or go out of whack.
Were the castor bushes rubber or nolathane type ones? And are you still running swaybars?
With that loose rear arm bush, you might have to remove it and then hit the arm sleeve with a big prick punch arount the sleeve so it binds on the bush, or the other option would be to seat the bush back into its spot then put 2-3 spot welds on each end. Both of those methods you can do yourself.
The other option is to call up Superior and ask them whats going on, as your issue is very uncommon.
Clutch fork boot - replace it asap! A $50 boot now will save you a lot of heartache and money down the track. Post up the actual cost of the boot for us, cause mine has just developed a hairline crack.
coxy321 wrote:Those bushes in the lower rear arms are pressed in - theres no way they should move like that, especially not the whole steel
When I did the diff swap in the back of mine I got a Local 4x4 suspension shop too fit brand new bushing top and bottom in my 4-link. First drive after was a 3 course comp. 2 on saturday, 1 on Sunday. I had a look after track 2 on the sunday, EVERY Bush and sleeve was out of the arm.
Spoke too the shop and they said that ANY aftermarket bush will do it. Genuine is the only ones they reckon.
the bushes in the arms are genuine nissan (well acording to superior) and all the bushes in my rig are genuine rubber (exgept the castor bushes) which are the rubber peddars bushes.
Bingham wrote:At dennis fergo's funeral will they be saying what a great bloke!
sprungupcruiser wrote:you're like the herpes of the fabrication business.
coxy321 wrote:Those bushes in the lower rear arms are pressed in - theres no way they should move like that, especially not the whole steel
When I did the diff swap in the back of mine I got a Local 4x4 suspension shop too fit brand new bushing top and bottom in my 4-link. First drive after was a 3 course comp. 2 on saturday, 1 on Sunday. I had a look after track 2 on the sunday, EVERY Bush and sleeve was out of the arm.
Spoke too the shop and they said that ANY aftermarket bush will do it. Genuine is the only ones they reckon.
Noted. For the price of genuine one's though, i can't see why people wouldn't get them. The aftermarket ones could be sorted with a few tack welds too though.
jbates58 wrote:the bushes in the arms are genuine nissan (well acording to superior) and all the bushes in my rig are genuine rubber (exgept the castor bushes) which are the rubber peddars bushes.
This is why you have the shakes.... pedders rubber bushes.. i have proved this over time by using them, then always getting a refund as they know the problem.. The rubber is softer than a gen nissan bush. i do not use pedders rubber bushes anymore...
As for the superior arms, i have seen a few sets do this with genuine nissan rubber bushes, as mentioned above we usually just tak weld them in place.
cheers mark.
Mud4b/ OPT, Cheap rates, Not cheap work. Search Opt- option offroad on facebook. Call or Sms 0439609525.. Sunshine coast, Eudlo, 4554.
Are the 2 deg pedders caster bushes no good?
Coz I’m running 3.5'' flexy lift set up and have 2 deg pedders rubber caster bushes. Everything was all good for about 6 months an now I’m chasing the shaking problem.
I’ve just had a list of things done, adjustable draglink, wheel bearings, swivel hub bearings, wheel alignment, and wheel balance. And still got the shakes……
So if the pedders bushes are no good are there any way of seeing this on the vehicle.
my truck had the shakes i lost it the moment i put balanced alloys on for the road. Im just upgrading my lift from 2 inch to 4 How high can you go before you have to mess with the castor bushes?
backtracker wrote:my truck had the shakes i lost it the moment i put balanced alloys on for the road. Im just upgrading my lift from 2 inch to 4 How high can you go before you have to mess with the castor bushes?
Personally, i'd look at castor correction with anything over 2". For four inches, castor correction is a MUST. Look into the different options for castor correction before you go throwing cash anywhere as some options are FAR better than others.
