also, anyone in brissy got a few 2nd hand ones they wanna part with???
and sam, i already know what your gonna say
, and it'll happen sooner rather than later now 
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Vitara CV's
Vitara CV's
so, after breaking my cv today, i wanna learn to change em myself (cause it's gonna be a regular occurance), so does anyone know a good site with how to's on how to change em out??? or could describe it here for me.
also, anyone in brissy got a few 2nd hand ones they wanna part with???
and sam, i already know what your gonna say , and it'll happen sooner rather than later now
also, anyone in brissy got a few 2nd hand ones they wanna part with???
and sam, i already know what your gonna say
, and it'll happen sooner rather than later now Suzuki Viagra wrote:Left or right?
If it's passenger front I have one if you have a slab. I can show you how to fix it.... hmmm... price might be a slab on fixing it for you too - it's really half a slab but you still owe me for fitting your body lift.
It's not really hard.
think its drivers side inner, not definite though, whats a good way to test em to check which one it is?
payment in slabs sounds good
mudfkr wrote:Antt,
There's a guy in the USA thats currently developing a bigger CV for Vit's that s a sh!t load stronger than std ones, if your interested I'll dig up some info and his contact details for you.
Shane
if you can find the details it'd be good. i don't want to spend heaps of $$$ on flash cv's, cause it'll take money away from the sas fund
CJ,
you beat me to it
Antt
He was quoting around US $150 per side from memory check it out...
http://www.zukiworld.com/cgi/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=suzuki_talk;action=display;num=1076295676
Shane
you beat me to it
Antt
He was quoting around US $150 per side from memory check it out...
http://www.zukiworld.com/cgi/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=suzuki_talk;action=display;num=1076295676
Shane
mudfkr wrote:CJ,
you beat me to it
Antt
He was quoting around US $150 per side from memory check it out...
http://www.zukiworld.com/cgi/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=suzuki_talk;action=display;num=1076295676
Shane
That isn't too bad for price, but the pain would be doing both at once and then finding that the diff housing now breaks first
Stephen broke his front diff housing once (in reverse), and broke a few axle shafts in the back of his old vitara with a lockright. Both me and my brother drove our vitara's hard, but never ever broke a cv...
Did you specifically notice when it broke, or are you just noticing it while you're driving around??
Any lockers on yours?
Did you specifically notice when it broke, or are you just noticing it while you're driving around??
Any lockers on yours?
My tires were rubbing in the front, so I trimmed the hood, and now they're fine...
mtzook wrote:Stephen broke his front diff housing once (in reverse), and broke a few axle shafts in the back of his old vitara with a lockright. Both me and my brother drove our vitara's hard, but never ever broke a cv...
Did you specifically notice when it broke, or are you just noticing it while you're driving around??
Any lockers on yours?
we noticed it pretty much straigth away, i think it did it when it started to bounce on the rock ledges coming up carnage canyone. i backed off pretty quickly (i think) cause i know they're pissweak when turning 32's, but obviously not quick enough. i've got a rear lockright in mine.
my mate got some video of it happening, so i'll have to watch that and see if i can figure out when it happend
Suzuki Viagra wrote:Still have a W/T axle on the floor here
So how close of a fit would the wide track be under the front of an 89 Vit ? As in the width ? Thats what I am thinking long term for my project rig..
05 Patrol GU ST Ute
3" lift, 3" exhaust, custom Garrett BB Turbo and top mount.. and electric mirrors !
3" lift, 3" exhaust, custom Garrett BB Turbo and top mount.. and electric mirrors !
I've looked and it looks nice and close to me..... like identically close.
The issues as I see it are - strength (not really an issue on 31"s or so - sierra guys do it all the time).
Narrower - well it's the same width as a sierra. Decent offset rims will return axle width to standard.
How to attach it? Leaf isn substantially easier than coil. Coil is better. Your choice.
There are probably better diff options but then you need to replace both diffs which makes a much bigger job.
Of course you can get overkill to make one of his custom ones - dunno the cost - maybe we can find out hey?
The issues as I see it are - strength (not really an issue on 31"s or so - sierra guys do it all the time).
Narrower - well it's the same width as a sierra. Decent offset rims will return axle width to standard.
How to attach it? Leaf isn substantially easier than coil. Coil is better. Your choice.
There are probably better diff options but then you need to replace both diffs which makes a much bigger job.
Of course you can get overkill to make one of his custom ones - dunno the cost - maybe we can find out hey?
Dana 30 I believe is 55.8" wide compared to Vitara 55" wide. Yukon do 4.56 and 4.88 ratio's, you really need 5.12 minimum. Dana's would be good with the 5 x 5.5 stud patern. But by the time you chop, get and axle re splined, gears f & R to match, locker I recon suzana would not be much difference either way.
stephen wrote:Dana 30 I believe is 55.8" wide compared to Vitara 55" wide. Yukon do 4.56 and 4.88 ratio's, you really need 5.12 minimum. Dana's would be good with the 5 x 5.5 stud patern. But by the time you chop, get and axle re splined, gears f & R to match, locker I recon suzana would not be much difference either way.
Most if the dana 30's will actually be a 5 on 4.5 wont they ?? (like the TJ ones) same as a ford 5 stud passanger car stufd pattern ..
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
Most people tend to think it is the CV that will blow first, but the real weak link in most indi front ends is the double offset joint (diff end) due to the fact that the joint has to not only take an angular load but also extend in length. This tends to place the top of the cup under considerable load and is usually the first point to crack. This can give similar symptoms, clicking on turning, etc., to a blown CV.
I would suggest that 2 mins under the vehicle having a GOOD look and feel for cracks along the length of the DOJ (especially the ridges at the lip of the cup corresponding to the area the balls track down), or leaks of grease around the area, torn boots (fried joint), etc.
I would suggest that 2 mins under the vehicle having a GOOD look and feel for cracks along the length of the DOJ (especially the ridges at the lip of the cup corresponding to the area the balls track down), or leaks of grease around the area, torn boots (fried joint), etc.
George Carlin, an American Comedian said; "Think of how stupid the average person is, and realise that half of them are stupider than that".
well, finally had a good look under it, drivers side inner is buggered, i can move the shaft in between the two cv's about an inch in every direction.
i got this off zukiworld, so i'm gonna do it myself
That's the same side I nuked, it's an easy
fix, remove lockout hub, tire/wheel, brake
caliper (hang on a wire) and the tie rod from
the knuckle. This isn't all nessisary, but it will
make your first time easier.
Make sure you support the trucklet with jack stands,
use a floor jack to support the A-arm and lift a little.
Now remove the clip from the axle stub, actually
do this before the tierod (easier) then the two
strut bolts on the bottom of the strut and remove,
collaps the strut and wire out of the way.
now with a large screw driver or pry bar, pop the axle
out of the housing, don't get too far in there as there
is a surface seal that you want to keep, it should come
right out as the rotor and hub assembly rolls out, now
slide the shaft out of the rotor hub assembly, you could
just clean and replace the nuked cage, or replace the
whole axle shaft, your option, but at least take this thing
apart so you know what it's like inside, you might get some
spares from the breakers so you have them with you on
your trips.
i got this off zukiworld, so i'm gonna do it myself
That's the same side I nuked, it's an easy
fix, remove lockout hub, tire/wheel, brake
caliper (hang on a wire) and the tie rod from
the knuckle. This isn't all nessisary, but it will
make your first time easier.
Make sure you support the trucklet with jack stands,
use a floor jack to support the A-arm and lift a little.
Now remove the clip from the axle stub, actually
do this before the tierod (easier) then the two
strut bolts on the bottom of the strut and remove,
collaps the strut and wire out of the way.
now with a large screw driver or pry bar, pop the axle
out of the housing, don't get too far in there as there
is a surface seal that you want to keep, it should come
right out as the rotor and hub assembly rolls out, now
slide the shaft out of the rotor hub assembly, you could
just clean and replace the nuked cage, or replace the
whole axle shaft, your option, but at least take this thing
apart so you know what it's like inside, you might get some
spares from the breakers so you have them with you on
your trips.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 80 guests