350 chevy

[nipples]

Hi all!

I am the proud owner of a knocking ln65 duel cab 2.4 diesel hilux. I am thinking of swapping the knocking donk for a 350 Chevy rather than the usual v6 conversion. my problems are how do I

clear the 350 sump from the front dif
make the speedo work
wire in the 350
keep cabin equipment intact

this build needs to be road worthy and done on a budget I have enough for the conversion kit (marks adapters) and motor (fully rebuilt and 360HP worth) but very little for the final touches.

any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

thank in advance

Nipples

[khany427]

dunno how you would go engineering a 350 in a hilux, seen them in 2wds but not 4x4s... straight gas would sort it out though.
speedo will still work fine if ya runnin the original box, if ya changing it wouldnt be too much drama, just need a different end/cog put on it.
a mate of mine recently changed his hilux from petrol to diesel and he changed the whole dash cluster over to get the tacho working an maybe some other gauge?? not sure, definetly tacho anyway.
wiring it up should be pretty straight forward, all run the same bits, might just have to lengthen or shorten some wires. only wiring you would have to stuff around with would be for the coil/dizzy etc, wouldnt be much drama though. im not too sure where to start with that one but someone on here will definetly know, if not wouldnt be much for an auto elec, wouldnt take them bugga all.
not too sure what you need sump wise without seeing what sump the motor has and not seeing the car, ide imagine a standard issue 350 into hq holden sump would do the trick, if not you might have to go torana style sump. really dont know. marks adaptors would know anyway.
bare in mind that if it needs a different sump to what its already got you you will need a different oil pick up. also what side the starters on vs how much room you have on that side, you may have to swap sides. should be right though with the conversion kit.
thought about exhaust and radiator? you will have to run either block hugger headers or stock headers. and you will PROBABLY need a bigger radiator, if not will have to get the inlets an outlets changed over, to suit the chev size water hoses, and maybe swapped sides. should only be about $100 for a decent radiator joint to do it.

on another note...
seeing as your on a budget and you will no doubt need some parts, DO NOT buy pro comp stuff, mainly found on ebay through "AT racing" (sellers name) think they sell through someone else aswell now. they get cheeky and advertise brand name parts aswell, but always have the correct part number, always check the numbers, any part number starting with PC....... do not touch. they are cheap products, but are alot nastier than they are cheap, its not worth it, i know of plenty of big $$$ motors acting like grenades, and its all been due to these products. they make everthing from stroker kits, heads etc to dizzys, starters an pushrods. so be wary.
best off waiting till you can afford to get proper brand stuff. its not that much dearer.
i bought a brand new procomp dizzy for my chev, without knowing, until i pulled it out of its box. its a paper weight now lol

[nipples]

Cheers mate.

I have found out that I am going have to get a different pitman arm to clear the steering coz it's going to smash the starter under twist and your dead right either HQ or Torana 350 sump is the go for the front end.
I have sort of come to terms with the wiring and I am going to use after market tacho, water ,volt and oil gauges. as for cooling I am pretty good with a welder so I will do that job my self but the radiator in the Ute now is a 4 core stocker which MIGHT do the job if not would Holden v8 one do with a couple of fans? the major problem is engineering. the motor I am wanting to buy is a fully reconditioned unit set-up for unleaded. would i have to run cats? and marks adapters makes the headers they look bloody nice too. I can easily fit rear disks for less than $400 but I am not sure as to what else I could do. in my head it's a massive 4X4 chassis much more rigid than 2wd that is designed for heavy loads, twisting, pulling etc.. what else could be done?

here is a link to the 350 I want, http://cgi.ebay.com.au/chev-chevy-350-e ... 1167wt_911" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[nipples]

sorry torque rod is gonna smash the starter. so far i have calculated about $4980 worth of gear that's to get the motor and adapter kit including clutch kit in the ute and running. the adapter kit came in under $2000, it's cheaper than the v6.

[khany427]

im not sure about the engineering stuff, all i know is that the motor you put in the car MUST be the same age as the car or younger, you cant put an older motor in unless its dedicated lpg or ya spend big $$$s on EPA tests to prove to them that the motor is doin the correct things pollution wise.
i think all this crap is the go for any car later than a 1977 model. thats why im at a loss as to what im gunna do with the chev im putting in my 1983 fj45.
pre 77 is fine, put what ya want in them.

i know your motor is rebuilt to run unleaded an stuff but it dont matter to the government. i really dont think you will have any luck without goin lpg or big $$ tests.
best bet is to contact an engineer anyway, tell him what you got and what you wanna do and he will tell you the best route to take.

what you may want to consider is goin for an injected 5litre out of a commodore, same bellhousing as the chev, different mounts but marks will sort that out.
maybe even an tuned port injected 350.

actually one thing i did forget, get the engine number of the motor, do a check on it to find out when the motor was built (from the factory) this may involve calling the states, i dont know. but if its the same year or later than your lux you would be safe

and another thing, its either hq OR torana sump, both are totally different to each other. make sure you find out before handing over your hard earned.

ile put a link up here tomorrow of a mob that does BRAND NEW 350s for not much more than that motor, probably a better way to go if you do wanna go the chev route.

[DAZ]

I have a 350 in a hilux which is mounted on a 80 series chassie. My engineer said that if it was still on the hilux chassie i would never have got it registered. Before you do anything find/contact the engineer you want to use ask him what you can do and then you have nothing to worry about.

cheers Daz

[khany427]

thats what i thought daz... otherwise every tom dick n harry would have a 350 hilux!
not sure how the 2wds are rego'd with them though. i have a mate with a 350 hilux 2wd, ile have to ask him

[nipples]

sorry about the delay there folks but a 350 chev 4x4 hilux is easy as sh&.. marks has you well covered engineering is no problem as long as you run an 1970-1988 block and that's it no brake mods chassis mods no special exhaust mods etc etc. but the problem now is strength. the chassis can take a small nuke but the torque is gonna smash the crap out of the drive line. how would I go about beefing up the the hilux to handle 300HP. i was thinking different gear box and diffs but what type?

please any suggestions for the drive line would be very appreciated.

BTW that's from an engineers mouth NOT MINE!

[crankycruiser]

V6 4 runner box is usually the way to go in luxes with V8's and then a cruiser arse end. That should be strong enough..

Probablly make more sence to run an auto behind it tho.. Be a bit nicer of the driveline then.