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Rhs&Lhs swivel hub kingpin threads stripped
Rhs Hub studs and dowel holes mangled
Rhs locking hub flange mangled
Rhs&Lhs locking hub engagement spline ring
Lhs axle
Lhs Longfeild cv
Snapped diff housing (tore a 10mm hole in the bottom)
RHS knuckle ball lower part where the kingpin bearing cup goes has bent up enough to not let me take the cv out...
Tom I dont think you can really blame the tyres for all the damage.
The comp was just a hard mother farker.
And some of that damage was due to your heavy right foot!
Bloody hell you went quick through the mud.
Anyway if you reckon the tyres are to blame swap me for my half worn 39.5 Iroks.
Vid of the comp in question. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FWmqRWiTrFM" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Seriously mate, i was standing directly in front of ya when it bent, and although you hit a 6 ft drop off at 70 kmh, it suprised me how much it bent lol, must have been all the prior punishment i reckon
haha its what i built it for... why go easy on it?
Id rather break things and make them stronger than build something and just wheel 1/2 cocked all the time.
Im not convinced about GU fronts... i know this will stir up some of the nissan die hards but after seeing every patrol GQ/GU breaking cvs axles and diffs like nothing id rather stay with my toy gear.
Shit my longfeild broke and my standard axle is still sweet lol.
Stickys are ShortyIQ sweet, ill just have to make everything else stronger.
Anyone want to find me some d60/70 axles with all the beef and setup for highsteer Dont mind paying for it if they are going to be the dux nutz
Zoltan if you're gonna drive it like its built to take it then you better build it stronger. Put around 10k into a front Solid D60 or a Spider9 with 35spline axles and then go nuts.
Z()LTAN wrote:looking at the spider9 website they are pretty cheap, For around the 10k mark i could almost get both front and rear
Your not looking at the right Spider9 then dude. With the $ being good I priced one yesterday. $5800ish AUS Complete minus centre or Locker. Shipping is about 10% of the purchase price
Thats 6650, and we haven't priced U joints, 3rd housings, pinion supports, ring and pinions, bearings (theres a couple of hundred bucks in decent ones), ARBs, yet..... Do you need a high pinion front? the high9's are $$$$$.... I've never heard cheap and spidertax in the same sentance, but it is good stuff tho. I run the housings and drive slugs. The time is definitely right with the dollar
napsta wrote:
Thats 6650, and we haven't priced U joints, 3rd housings, pinion supports, ring and pinions, bearings (theres a couple of hundred bucks in decent ones), ARBs, yet..... Do you need a high pinion front? the high9's are $$$$$.... I've never heard cheap and spidertax in the same sentance, but it is good stuff tho. I run the housings and drive slugs. The time is definitely right with the dollar
You haven't mentioned Brake Rotor's, Cailpers, Mount's, Pad's, etc
My order/quote is $5,546.15US with out Locker, centre or U-joints. Thats Just a Front Steer diff
I thought that someone had bought the name Solid and was producing again - possibly these guys: http://spyntec.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I have seen them advertising very recently at events and in US print media.
Ballistic Fab still have them on their website: http://www.solidaxle.com/ProductCart/pc ... category=6" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I can't get on facebook atm or I'd link to the pic of the Toyota 10.5something inch rear diff that is in the back of Randy's new Bomber II, including ARB - it's sweeeet.