turbo + 1HZ: boost compensator?

[VTCRUZR]

I have a question for everyone that drives a turbo'd 1hz.

I drive a '86 HJ60 that i retrofitted a '93-94 1HZ/h55f into. i plan to turbo it this summer to use it for towing. I was also planning on fitting a injector pump boost compensator as fitted to the 1hd-t's. i assumed this would be a good thing however, turboglide says it's a BAD idea siting that "compensators are the single biggest cause of flat spotting and latter over fueling and subsequent engine damage." is this true or is it just negligence on the tuners part? I figure it would provide a more parallel fuel delivery and as long a you keep an eye on EGTs it should fine, right?

EDIT: one more thing, whats the max boost anyone has run through a 1HZ IDI head with an intercooler?

[mickbeny]

Hi all...Vtcruzr,They dont give a flat spot at all.You can actually make the bottom end power more powerfull without touching the main fuel screw.My EGT is set at about 550deg and runs hot in summer on a long steep hill.I would intercool before fitting a boost compensater.

[Simo63]

I have a question for everyone that drives a turbo'd 1hz.

I drive a '86 HJ60 that i retrofitted a '93-94 1HZ/h55f into. i plan to turbo it this summer to use it for towing. I was also planning on fitting a injector pump boost compensator as fitted to the 1hd-t's. i assumed this would be a good thing however, turboglide says it's a BAD idea siting that "compensators are the single biggest cause of flat spotting and latter over fueling and subsequent engine damage." is this true or is it just negligence on the tuners part? I figure it would provide a more parallel fuel delivery and as long a you keep an eye on EGTs it should fine, right?

EDIT: one more thing, whats the max boost anyone has run through a 1HZ IDI head with an intercooler?

Not being a turbo specialist I can't comment except to say that as far as I knew, the boost compensator was a good thing and allowed the pump to be tuned so that it has the right amount of fuel down low in the revs (so no black smoke) and allowed the pump to boost the fuel up top. Without it, I was told that you will need to run it rich down low to make sure you have enough fuel up top .. hence lots of black sooty smoke down low.

Can't see how the 300 odd engineers (yes over exaggeration I know) that designed the motor and car decided that it would be good to have a boost compensator on a factory turbo and spec it on the motor at additional cost yet a "tune up specialist" reckons he knows better?

If I knew no more about your "specialist" other than this advice, I would steer clear of him. I wouldn't let him touch the car let alone tune it. The biggest problem with performance tuning a diesel is over fuelling them ... now that destroys them (along with too much timing advance and boost ). Get yourself a pyrometer and make sure it's not getting over 550 - 600 degree max. Then look around for someone who knows what they are doing so that the motor will last longer than 12 months.

Hope this helps.
Simo

[VTCRUZR]

i consulted no "specialist", that was what turboglide said when i asked if their kit came with a boost compensator. I have decided to put together my own custom kit, and will be "tuning" it myself. So far it seems like a good idea as i thought.

any ideas about max boost?

[dumbdunce]

youy don't "need" a boost compensator. the main benefits of a boost compensator are cleaner oil and better emissions. A properly tuned pump witha boost compensator does not have a "flat spot" but they are far more difficult to tune than the regular pump.

1HZ is a fairly easy motor to custom turbo, you can stick with the factory exhaust manifold and make a short adaptor for the turbo.

"slowhilux" on this board has an intercooled 1HZ turbo with boost compensator, I think he runs about 13psi which I would consider fairly safe, however you can achieve tha same power at the same boost without a boost compensator, you will just have a puff of black smoke when you floor it, before it comes on full boost, and you will need to religiously change your oil at 5000km intervals (which is the service interval for 1HZ anyway). I'd say 15psi would be about the upper safe limit for a 1HZ, any more than that and the pumping inefficincies of the IDI head will catch up with you and you'll have to start winding the fuel back radiacally to keep the EGT's down.

I have built a few custom turbos on 1HZ 80 series, I set them up for 9 - 10psi with EGTs around 500 - 550C post turbo, and I would consider 600C a fairly safe sustained upper limit for EGT under load.

if you are handy with cutting and welding, a custom turbo on a 1HZ will cost you under $1000 total, the intercooler will probably cost more than that once you get it plumbed up but the 60 series engine bay is just made for an intercooler with plenty of space out front and plenty of metal under the headlights to cut away for 3" plumbing. "carts" off this board has a 60 series with a BIG intercooler up front, he runs 13psi on the 2H with EGTs around 500C and that truck is quicker than a stock multivalve turbo 80 series, at least to 100km/h.

summary: boost compensator: don't bother. boost: 10 - 13psi no problem. intercooler: yes, easy on a 60. custom turbo: yes, easy on a 1HZ. hint: the 300ZX 3 litre V6 turbo has a ceramic turbine, ball bearing spindle, water cooled, spools fast, has a garrett flange, is designed for around 130 - 180kW, and is around $500 from importers. you need to partially disassemble to clock the housings and re-mount the wastegate actuator, but it is a very nice match to the 1HZ. No good if you want a "new" turbo but jap import turos typically have less than 50,000km and usually come with some warranty. "Ferog" and "DX80" off this board have my custom turbos in their 1HZ 80 series, ask them about the performance and reliability of this turbo.

cheers
DD

[VTCRUZR]

thanks for the info! I might go ahead with the boost compensator, cleaner oil is good, especially with IDI and proportional fuel delivery is a good thing, but thanks for clearing up my concerns. couple more questions:

- EGT gauge: pre-turbo or post-turbo?
- anyone dyno'd their 1HZ-T? what kind of HP/Torque numbers? more interested in torque.

thanks!

[80diesel4play]

thanks for the info! I might go ahead with the boost compensator, cleaner oil is good, especially with IDI and proportional fuel delivery is a good thing, but thanks for clearing up my concerns. couple more questions:

- EGT gauge: pre-turbo or post-turbo? Pre is better but dump pipe off turbo good.
- anyone dyno'd their 1HZ-T? what kind of HP/Torque numbers? more interested in torque. Soon to be done!

thanks!

I run 9psi into mine with a 600 x 300 x75mm Intercooler, T3 rotormaster turbo and the hand built mandrel bend u bend to get the turbo happening. It feeds out at 2" into the intercooler and feeds 3" into the chopped intake manifold. Exhaust is 3" dump into the 2.5 straight through system. Power difference is major, running up around 300-400C EGT constant with 550-600C as a max (in snow!).
I have a boost compensator (not fitted up yet) but have high flowed injectors and opened up the pump to suit. I have a post up on the build in the toyota section - I want to see the torque figures as the setup hauls a55 with standard gearing and 35's. I think I'd be drifting with 32's on board!

[GQ TROL]

anyone dyno'd their 1HZ-T? what kind of HP/Torque numbers? more interested in torque.

Mate runs a turboed 1HZ in his BJ74 MWB. With 1HD-T fuel pump (with aneroid) and turbo it dynoed at 207HP at the wheels running 16-18psi boost and small top-mount DTS intercooler. Turbo has since been modified with T04-B compressor wheel, max HP and Nm probably the same but is alot more "lively" to drive.

Is competing at OBC next month, apparently arrived in Melbourne today.

[VTCRUZR]

whats the major differences between a 1HD-T pump and a 1HZ pump? I thought they were similar, the major difference being the aneroid.

[GQ TROL]

1HD-T uses 12mm plunger, 1HZ uses 11mm plunger. 1HD-T pump = lots more HP!

[Shadow]

There was a write-up on this in 4wd monthly.

They had a boost compensator added which gave a 11% power increase.

The power figures they have on thier 1hz AXT turbo'd troopy are

Pre Boost Compensator
82.6kw @ 3337RPM
491.3Nm @ 2387RPM

Post Boost Compensator
91.8Kw @ 3594 RPM
531.6Nm @ 2516RPM

So you can see that the boost compensator is probably just allowing the pump to deliver more fuel at high revs and still safely deliver the "correct" amount of fuel at low revs, giving more powwer and torque, and not wasting fuel down low.

The writter also mentioned that the car drove with less power at the bottom end (no more overfueling) and more of a slingshot effect as you move through the rev range. Also achieved 1L/100 better fuel economy.

This was the January 2006 edition of 4WD Montly.

[Shadow]

anyone dyno'd their 1HZ-T? what kind of HP/Torque numbers? more interested in torque.

Mate runs a turboed 1HZ in his BJ74 MWB. With 1HD-T fuel pump (with aneroid) and turbo it dynoed at 207HP at the wheels running 16-18psi boost and small top-mount DTS intercooler. Turbo has since been modified with T04-B compressor wheel, max HP and Nm probably the same but is alot more "lively" to drive.

Is competing at OBC next month, apparently arrived in Melbourne today.

That is a huge amount more than the 4wd monthly rig, more than 50% more power! He must be running huge boost!?!?

[GQ TROL]

That is a huge amount more than the 4wd monthly rig, more than 50% more power! He must be running huge boost!?!?

Its a comp truck dude, and the engine has had a freshen up (new balanced internals, new cam etc) before the OBC, so should be slightly more than 207HP now. Boost is ony 16-18 psi. Just wait till we give it some LPG injection...should be good for 250 - 275HP at the wheels.

[mickbeny]

Hi all...Did the test give EGT before and after??

When i got my aneroid fitted mine went heaps better,then i relized i had an overheating problem.Took my vehicle to a local turbo guru and found the EGT was to high,they lowered it to where it was before hand.The vehicle then went like before hand.The aneroid was basically a waste of money.

[Shadow]

In theory it will increase your EGT since you are able to get more fuel at high RPM, where yoiu were limited previously due to overfueling at low RPM. But this all comes down to tuning.

When you took it in the may have wound i back to a vary safe fueling setting, did they tune it on a dyno?

[mickbeny]

Hi all...Shadow,Before the aneroid was fitted,my vehicle was set at 550deg at full boost on a hill.The same guys in exactly the same situation retuned it exactly the same after the overheating problem.

Im not knocking the aneroid,but i only think its worth its money if you intend to get more preformance than just a turbo fittment.If you just want to fitt a turbo to your engine and nothing more,dont waste your money on an aneroid.If you want to hot the engine up much more than just the turbo fittment,then get an aneroid.

[Turbo 80]

Hi Mate,

Im currently running 14 PSI with water to air intercooler in Darwin. Currently installing Water methanol injection, mainly to bring EGTs down but mine never gets above 500. Reduce EGT add more fuel/boost see what happens

There is now real requirement to fit one as a GOOD tuner will tune it to keep it under the thresh hold, but if you find that you are always getting hot try going down a gear.

cheers

cosi

[KiwiBacon]

1HD-T uses 12mm plunger, 1HZ uses 11mm plunger. 1HD-T pump = lots more HP!

Some helpful guy gave me the factory injection volumes for a 1HZ and 1HD-T pump.
At max torque they're injecting basically the same amount of fuel, just the more efficient 1HD-T turns it into more power and torque.

The 1HZ runs incredibly rich in stock condition, my calcs put it richer than 18:1 at max torque, exactly how rich depends on the engines VE.
This is one of the reasons it needs frequent oil changes.

One very good reason not to put big boost into a 1HZ. It already has 22:1 compression.

[Z()LTAN]

One very good reason not to put big boost into a 1HZ. It already has 22:1 compression.

heyyy whats wrong with 25psi?