Help me choose a Pajero.

[young-gun]

I am looking at a few Pajeros in Melbourne.
I have listed them in order that I like them.
Anyone see anything "unusual"?
Any tips?

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/pri ... 0&__Nne=15" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/pri ... 0&__Nne=15" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/pri ... 0&__Nne=15" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I want it to last about 3 years I guess. Some 4x4 work, but mostly normal dirt road driving.
Any tips on the fuel economy I should expect?
cheers

[pickle]

For me the NJ does the trick. Although I think he might be telling porkies when he says it hasn't been offroad.
The NL are great units although from the sounds of it the LPG had been on it for over ten years (tank being tested). LPG systems on Pajeros should only be injected for efficiency otherwise they can give you a lot of greif. Also low slung LPG tank hinders when offroad.
NH looks ok but simply is the older vehicle out of the three.

NJ with extractors should get you around 15's in town and maybe 12' s out on the road.
LPG in the NL will be around 20 - 22 around town. Maybe 18's on the road.
Dave

[scorpion 42]

I am looking at a few Pajeros in Melbourne.
I have listed them in order that I like them.
Anyone see anything "unusual"?
Any tips?

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/pri ... 0&__Nne=15" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/pri ... 0&__Nne=15" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/pri ... 0&__Nne=15" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I want it to last about 3 years I guess. Some 4x4 work, but mostly normal dirt road driving.
Any tips on the fuel economy I should expect?
cheers

Do yourself a favour and stay well clear of the 3.5 GDI as they are real temperamental and a nightmare when you get a bit of dirt in the fuel system, they have to many filters and if neglected, then they are a real pig and the timing belt and adjuster should have been changed at 70, 000 miles, they are a real flying machine and it has a 5 speed overdrive tiptronic box, but the real trouble, with these pajero's is this, they have NO service history, because the Japs, when they export them, dont include the service history or owners manuel or any paper work for that matter, so your buying blind, but its a personal thing with these beasts, there you go and by the way, they are really way over priced over there in Aus, for the 3.5 here in the UK I wouldn't give him more than £3,000 and the other two, maybe about the first one, £ 1,000, the second, 1,300.

[-Scott-]

We don't have the GDI in Aus, and none of those vehicles are "grey imports", so there's no reason for them to not have a service history.

They all have approximately the same km, which I find a little suspicious, but I'm a cynic.

The NH lists ABS and rear LSD. Here in Aus, ABS in the NH came with a rear diff lock and electric adjustable suspension. I can see what appears to the the sticker for LSD in the driver's footwell, but can't see the ABS hardware under the bonnet - so I'd guess it doesn't have ABS. I can't see ABS hardware in the NL engine bay, and I'm not sure it was even available, but it could be installed somewhere else.

I think pickle's got the right advice - I think the NJ represents the best buy there, although I'd have a good long look at the NL too. Five years newer, still reasonable km, and I would prefer the 3.5 SOHC if I could get it. But I don't know it's worth double the price.

Be aware that all three vehicles are approaching a timing belt change at 200k km (every 100k).

[young-gun]

For me the NJ does the trick. Although I think he might be telling porkies when he says it hasn't been offroad.
The NL are great units although from the sounds of it the LPG had been on it for over ten years (tank being tested). Also low slung LPG tank hinders when offroad.
NH looks ok but simply is the older vehicle out of the three.
NJ with extractors should get you around 15's in town and maybe 12' s out on the road.
Dave

Thanks for the info about the LPG and low tank.
I am leaning toward the NH mainly as its got all I want (except LPG) and cheap.
Will get a Stateroads vehicle inspection done on it first tho.

12l/100km I guess is ok.

[young-gun]

\and none of those vehicles are "grey imports", so there's no reason for them to not have a service history.
The NH lists ABS and rear LSD. - so I'd guess it doesn't have ABS.
I would prefer the 3.5 SOHC if I could get it. But I don't know it's worth double the price.
Be aware that all three vehicles are approaching a timing belt change at 200k km (every 100k).

Thats what I was thinking about the "grey imports".

The ABS could be an add on or a "typo". Possibly an honest mistake.

3.5 vs 3.0; much difference in performance? Still cruise at 110kmh in the 3.0 easy enough?

Is the timing belt a hard fix? I just fitted a new compressor to a Ford EL in about 40 mins (piece of pi#$ to do).
Guy at shop said about $570 for them to do it (kit only $250).

cheers

[date]

I have a 2000 NL Escape with 216000 km on the clock. It runs on gas. Driven with light foot, it gives about 16 L/100 km on gas and about 12 on petrol, but it rarely gets any of that.

At 180000 km, you are coming up (if not already well overdue) for a timing belt change - 2000 km. That can be costly unless you do it yourself, but even then you are looking at about $200 for parts. Also, the spark plugs will be due for a change. They are expensive. I got mine from the US for a fraction of the price.

If you go for LPG, I recommend that you replace the high tension leads and plugs, because the LPG charge requires a higher voltage to get the spark to jump across the right place. The HT leads are ridiculously thin and you cannot do much about them other than replace them. If you get new plugs, go at least on grade colder if you have gas, because the gas burns hotter than petrol - the plug gap gradually opens up and eventually instead of the recommended 1.1 mm, you have 1.5 or more.

Regarding what to look for, the higher spec NL models had ABS as standard. I paid extra for it with my Escape model.

Otherwise, the normal things to look for - past service history (if you believe that stuff), signs of crash damage, look underneath at the bash platges to see if they have been bashed or even bashed out again (as is mine). They are a good vehicle. Look after them and they look after you.

[young-gun]

At 180000 km, you are coming up (if not already well overdue) for a timing belt change - 2000 km. That can be costly unless you do it yourself,. Also, the spark plugs will be due for a change. They are expensive.

Yeah he said the timing belt was done at 90,000 so about $250 for the parts.
Should be able to do it myself (with a mate to help if needed).

Where did you get the spark plugs?
Going to get a comprehensive check done on it, so that guy will know how good it really is.
cheers

[date]

I bought my parts from http://www.rockauto.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; They have a range of parts for all vehicles sold in the US & Canada, so you have to be careful about what you are buying. From memory, the freight on the last parcels cost me more than the parts I bought, but it was still much much cheaper than buying here.

I run almost exclusively on LPG, and LPG has slightly different requirements than petrol. I bought NGK plugs because that is what was originally in the car from new. if you are looking for the cooler grade plugs, be careful and read from the plug manufacturer's websites about the heat ranges of the plugs. Some plug manufacturers have the heat range ascending for colder plugs whereas others have it the other way eg some have ????7?? plug is colder than a ????6?? plug. The plugs I bought are not available in Australia - as far as I could find out anyway. I could have got the next range hotter and indeed was using them without too much trouble, but since they are there for 100000 km, I try to get the most suitable for the job.

I closed the plug gap down to 0.9 mm because the cenrtal probe in the NGK plugs is very skinny. I expect that the central electrode may erode away quickly, hence I start with a tight gap and let it wear into what the car really needs. The original plugs had over 1.6 mm gap when I pulled them out (100000 km). The originals were o.6 mm dia and the new plugs (NGK Iridium IX Model No BKR7EIX) are 0.4 mm dia. That is thin. The idea is that you get a better spark from a pointed probe than a flat probe. I certainly felt the difference when they were put in - better pickup, smoother running. My main concern is "How long are they going to last?" I bought new High Tension leads as well, but they came from a different supplier and hence were a different consignment. The freight was nearly doubled because of this. It is fairly easy to track teh consignment and see where they are. It took about 1 week to get the parts.

You may consider replacing the water pump whilst you are doing the timing belt. If the pump goes at a later time, you have to strip it down that far to get to the pump, so maybe do it anyway. You can get water pumps from ebay for about the same price as from Rockauto.

If you are buying a NJ model, it may have the 3.5 L DOHC engine. Apparently, these are a bit of a mongrel to work on (getting the cams to stay still whilst you slip the belt on). I know that even on the SOHC engine, the driver's side cam wants to slip off position as you fiddle the belt around under idler pulleys and over the water pump. The DOHC engine puts out a bit more power, but at higher revs.

If you are still choosing between the NL & the NJ, I would push for the younger model because it has all the latest goodies in it as standard, whereas the earlier model may have missed out on a few. The exceed model certainly had a lot of goodies on it.

Email me if you have further questions.

[young-gun]

I bought my parts from http://www.rockauto.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; the freight on the last parcels cost me more than the parts I bought,

You may consider replacing the water pump whilst you are doing the timing belt. If the pump goes at a later time, you have to strip it down that far to get to the pump, so maybe do it anyway. You can get water pumps from ebay for about the same price as from Rockauto.

If you are still choosing between the NL & the NJ, I would push for the younger model because it has all the latest goodies in it as standard, whereas the earlier model may have missed out on a few. The exceed model certainly had a lot of goodies on it.
Email me if you have further questions.

1: thanks for the link. I get that buying scuba gear and electronics out of new york. Still save a bundle tho.
2: thanks, good idea.
3: Drove the 91 model today and it does go good. Seats are a little dirty but the overall condition of the vehicle is good. Air con does not work so not sure if its just gas or the compressor.
4: No thats enough, thanks. Have a good one.

[date]

Young-gun: Sorry, I forgot to add about Rockauto that the Pajero you are after is called a Montero in the US. I did a lot of research about differing models and so far, the parts I ordered were the right parts. Use the pictures to check on what you are ordering.

Regarding the choice between the NJ and the NL, I would opt for the NL if you can afford it - simply because it is so much younger than the NJ. Also, the NL has a body lift as standard ( to accomodate the larger manual transmission I have been told). The NL has a lot of other features eg twin airbags and almost certainly ABS.

Good luck with your bargain hunt

[young-gun]

called a Montero in the US.
I would opt for the NL if you can afford it
Good luck with your bargain hunt

1: cheers for that info.
2: Nice car but its on gas and it could be a great car or a bomb.
3: not a bargain hunt but just a hunt for a cheapish reliable car for 2 years whilst working out bush. Prob wont be doing too many miles but need the reliability.

Thanks mate.

[-Scott-]

The NJ is a 3 litre, not the DOHC 3.5, so that's not an issue.

The NL 3.5 is approved for LPG by Mitsubishi, unlike the 12V 3.0. So that's not an issue either.

[young-gun]

The NL 3.5 is approved for LPG by Mitsubishi, unlike the 12V 3.0. So that's not an issue either.

Good to know, cheers.