Dif truss - strength w/o welding

[Zookrider]

Hi all, My kingpin angles were competely off and the dude says that its cause the axles are bent.
So I have taken off my spare set and cleaned them up good, but then realised how thin the metal is (apart from the tubes on either side). I don't want to weld scaffolding to them anymore incase I blow through or bend them. I see Calmini do trusses for my rig, no doubt exy and I'm not sure they will work. Anyone tried them or found your own solution? If I can find the right pipe that fits snuggy over the tube section, then I could build my own.

Also, I have found the fill/drain pugs to be a nightmare to get out, anyone found an alternate bit of threaded goodness that fits and you use real tools (like a spanner) to use on it? I'm just using the sqaure drive, and it's eating the plugs more than removing them!

[V.W.Dave]

What angle is off? if its your camber then it could be the king pin bearings are shot but if not you need to find a new diff or completely re-engineer yours. If you get some 50/50mm medium wall box and cut it do fit then weld it on. Just gusset the top then you will not loose ground clearance. If your running BIG tyres then I would suggest doing both sides.
If its your caster then the King pin angle is off because you have over lifted you zook without or without correctly clocking your swivel housings. Here is how we did mine.
[quote="Black Bull"]
Anyways, so now the front springs and diff positions were finalized it's time to clock the knuckles, -15 castor is never good

First we had to get it sitting where it should be, no engine in it atm so we had to improvise


Springs sitting exactly where we want them


Cut through the welds on the knuckles and ground a nice "V"


Heat the outer Tubes to release the knuckle so it can be rotated

The black lines show how far we rotated it

Then I got comfortable

And started Welding

Also added some Gussets

As for your drain plugs.
Take your drain plug or the filler plug (they are the same size) to a parts dealer and ask for a different style with the same size threads. Or you can weld a small net to the plug. The downfall to this is as a drian plug on a diff the nut will hang down an scrape/catch on things.
Or you can replace the bad one you have with a new one with the square drive and stop over tightening it. Just about every person I know over tightens there drain plugs. To add to that if you are just shoving a 3/8 drive or 1/2 drive into it and turning away there in lies your problem they are metric square drives on zooks. You need to look into getting the correct tool to do the job and it will limit the damage you do to the drain plug each time you take it in and out. From memory they are 10mm and or 14mm square drives

[Zookrider]

Thanks for the reply Dave! They bend inwards, so think of the diff as bending up at the wheels. Tell me if this is BS, but the Caster issue was solved differently by the guy I bought my first rig from, he moved the diff forwards up the spring for the front, and backwards for the rear by about 1.5" or so, with a 2" shackle lift and HD leafs. Does that make sense?
I assume it's so it reaches a point on the spring's curve to 'improve' the castor. Also gives a little longer wheelbase.

Now with this Box section, are you saying to weld it across the top of the thicker tube sections on bothe ends and then make a gusset to go inbetween, over the pumpkin without thouching it? Cause that was kinda my original plan.
It just shocked me the small gauge in the pumpkin walls, maybe some armour and skid plate for them is not a bad idea afterall. Any1 punctured a hole in one of these diffs?

My plan is to beef up the diffs from the chick cruiser I bought (they've had a better life and I assume they're straight), and do a complete rebuild on them before swapping them in.

[Neofitou]

sound like you bent the axel housing not the axels. I bannanad one pretty good once, I couldnt get the axels out without a winch and an axe,

Get a new housing, and weld in a brace.
You shouldnt blow holes unless yove got way too much power set on your welder.
Then just transfer the third member, axels etc into the new stonger one.

[lay80n]

When you weld on the truss, make sure you stagger your welds. Tack the truss on, then weld a few inches, diagonally switch sides, weld a few inches. Etc Etc This helps stop the diff housing pulling from teh heat expansion of the metal. The other option is to brace the housing in a jig with axle bars and pucks.

Layto....

[Zookrider]

Thanks for the comments, Yer I agree with the logic, but my welding is not that crash hot, especially stick. You should see the job I did on my bullbar mounting. Not going anywhere, but UGLY.

I got a quote for $266 per for these badboys! so $532 and a spanner, job is done. Reinforce, skid and armour.

[Turbo Tonka]

or for about $20 in steel tops you will have enough to make your own. your welding being ugly on there doesnt really matter aslong as it holds.its not like its your spring perches your trying to hold on mate. or cut em to shape,clean up ya housing and get a mate/shop to stitch em on for ya for a cashie.

just seems like a hole lot of money to me

[lay80n]

I agree with Appsie ^^^^^^^.


Layto....

[Zookrider]

ok, you've twisted my arm. I'll start by seeing if I can engineer me a bolt on truss, Easier to manage weld pull than making a jig for the whole thing, can lay some fat beads, and if I stuff up I still have a fine diff, (and a Homer scultpure). The Calmini jobby looks a bit over done for my tastes anyhow. Then if it is too much hasstle then I'll just bite the bullet and let the sparks fly.

[Neofitou]

I (or many others) could do it for you for way cheaper, and not big overkill mud scoops.
Why not come to the Feb meeting and discuss..

[Rotazuk]

Scratch that , I seem to remember machining down the 413 tube to fit inside the vitara housing .

Chris

[alien]

dont forget most of the time when a sierra diff housing bends, it bends between the spring perch and the hub... mine are gussetted all the way along regardless, but both times i've bent a housing its been right on the end of the tube.

[Zookrider]

dont forget most of the time when a sierra diff housing bends, it bends between the spring perch and the hub... mine are gussetted all the way along regardless, but both times i've bent a housing its been right on the end of the tube.

Ahhhhhh, that seems to be a good point! So the design of my custom bolt on diff girdle should extend all the way to the other side of the perchs as well. I've got something in my head, it's growing, but not a tumor. I think I need to stare at the diffs for an extended period of time, thinking, with rocky music playing <only funny if you watch The Big Bang Thoery>.

Neo, I'll try to make the meeting! My Paj club membership lapst anyhow.