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80 series vibration ???? help
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
80 series vibration ???? help
my boss has an 80 serries shat box 40th ann model 4.5 petrol auto 1.5" lift and 32" tyres he is winghing about a vibration at around 60 kph under light load in overdrive and 3rd gear and wanth to see if you guys have any idea's on the problem
If it's a driveline vibration - get under and check it all out - somethings loose - or his uni's are on the way out. - especially seeing it's at a certain speed and dissapears.
If it's in the steering - get the tyres balanced and change the Steering dampner(go OME- they work very well on 80's).
I have an 80 - with Splits and it virabates it's nuts off from 100km/h thru to 110km/h then dissapears - damn splits!!!
After re reading your post - he shouldn't be in overdrive at 60kph. Lucky to be out of second gear. probably loading up the auto and wearing the mounts out.
If it's in the steering - get the tyres balanced and change the Steering dampner(go OME- they work very well on 80's).
I have an 80 - with Splits and it virabates it's nuts off from 100km/h thru to 110km/h then dissapears - damn splits!!!
After re reading your post - he shouldn't be in overdrive at 60kph. Lucky to be out of second gear. probably loading up the auto and wearing the mounts out.
80 Series Turbo - the Toy car...
XR6 Turbo - the work car...
XW wagon - the dogs car...
XR6 Turbo - the work car...
XW wagon - the dogs car...
the tyres have been balanced
it has been run with the center diff lock on and ether t/shaft out
it does have a nolethane caster corection kit and that took some of it out
but it is still there
the tailshafts and uni joints are ok the conveter shop said that the spigot might be bent if the gear box was removed , pulled the box sent the converter to be tested it is aok
we cant get rid of it and he is driving me crazy with it (not working)
anymore suggestions would help me thanks guys
it has been run with the center diff lock on and ether t/shaft out
it does have a nolethane caster corection kit and that took some of it out
but it is still there
the tailshafts and uni joints are ok the conveter shop said that the spigot might be bent if the gear box was removed , pulled the box sent the converter to be tested it is aok
we cant get rid of it and he is driving me crazy with it (not working)
anymore suggestions would help me thanks guys
Splits BJ - on the front ATM as one of my "Quality A/T's" decided to tear a chunk out of the edge and have steel belts showing - so no go at getting that back on a rim.
Check the Wanted for my ad........
As for the 80 - Check the front/rear diffs for bends/warp - axle warp etc.. check the bearings, check the rotors and calipers, check the oil level, check your flywheel as well (some have had slipping probs and this will not help).
Pay $100 - put in on a dyno - get it to vibrate and see where it is - many eys make fast work. Be spewing $$$ wise if it's bearings...
Many k's on it? Tell your dad to fix it!!!! he he!!
Check the Wanted for my ad........
As for the 80 - Check the front/rear diffs for bends/warp - axle warp etc.. check the bearings, check the rotors and calipers, check the oil level, check your flywheel as well (some have had slipping probs and this will not help).
Pay $100 - put in on a dyno - get it to vibrate and see where it is - many eys make fast work. Be spewing $$$ wise if it's bearings...
Many k's on it? Tell your dad to fix it!!!! he he!!
80 Series Turbo - the Toy car...
XR6 Turbo - the work car...
XW wagon - the dogs car...
XR6 Turbo - the work car...
XW wagon - the dogs car...
I got an 91' 80 diesle gxl manual as well, and mine has a 3 inch kings spring lift and 33-12.5-15's on.
I had a vibration after fitting new tyres a 12 months ago...the 80 suffers a little in the suspension department and vibes the whole truck if you have crap tyres....expecially noticable going round corners..at high way speeds.
Failing that, Lock in the center lock and drop the front shaft, because as you said...
This strongly indicates a front shaft wear in uni's or slip joint which is see'ing the shaft get out of round or out of balance at speed..
also..if someone has had the shafts out at some time...just double check the phasing of the uni joints incase someone has put them in 180 degrees out..this will throw the balancing of the shaft out too..
Hope this helps
I had a vibration after fitting new tyres a 12 months ago...the 80 suffers a little in the suspension department and vibes the whole truck if you have crap tyres....expecially noticable going round corners..at high way speeds.
Failing that, Lock in the center lock and drop the front shaft, because as you said...
it does have a nolethane caster corection kit and that took some of it out
This strongly indicates a front shaft wear in uni's or slip joint which is see'ing the shaft get out of round or out of balance at speed..
also..if someone has had the shafts out at some time...just double check the phasing of the uni joints incase someone has put them in 180 degrees out..this will throw the balancing of the shaft out too..
Hope this helps
45 series ute - 308 -gas -35's- lifted -no flex..But i got air lockers !
2006 VX v8 4.7 Landcruiser, bog stock. It's black so its cool !
2006 VX v8 4.7 Landcruiser, bog stock. It's black so its cool !
Re: 80 series vibration ???? help
bazuky wrote:my boss has an 80 serries shat box 40th ann model 4.5 petrol auto 1.5" lift and 32" tyres he is winghing about a vibration at around 60 kph under light load in overdrive and 3rd gear and wanth to see if you guys have any idea's on the problem
I have some thing similar, i have exactly the model in auto with a 4 inch lift and castor correction and it vibrates to the shit house and i can understand your boss complaining. I get the vibratin at 40kms/h then at 60kms/h then really badly at 100kms/h. I have installed the centre diff lock button (which i recommend if you take either of the drive shafts out as you will burn out the cetnre viscous coupling) and i dropped the front tail shaft and the problem pretty much went away.
I put the front tail shaft back in put the truck on 4 axle stands and put it in gear. i found that the front tail shaft not had a wobble in it, looks like the lift has caused some sort of binding in the uni joints in the front tailshaft. I have had a new front tail shaft made up from my old one and the double cardin joint out of a hilux ( cost about $100 for the joint and $165 for the work on it ) I am just going though some teething problems getting it back in as the stud pattern is different on the double cardin compared with the stud pattern on the landcruiser transfer case flange. I will have to let you know how i go over the weekend with it.
I have a feeling the transfer case has some part to play in all of this. As i have got the front tailshaft out for the moment and i can still feel a little vibration at about 80 while i have the centre diff lock on. Then again i am not really sure this model was supposed to be running at those speeds with it on in the first place or they would have put the button in there!
Let me know if you find anything
Chris
did you find any tailshaft wobble at all??
if not i may be barking up the wrong tree all together.
May be it is coming from the transfer case? and not the drive shaft after all.
Some Toyota dealer must have come across this problem at some stage?
Anyway once i get this tail shaft in i will let you know, having a few dramas modifying the flage to accept the new tail shaft
Chris
if not i may be barking up the wrong tree all together.
May be it is coming from the transfer case? and not the drive shaft after all.
Some Toyota dealer must have come across this problem at some stage?
Anyway once i get this tail shaft in i will let you know, having a few dramas modifying the flage to accept the new tail shaft
Chris
Well i have ( with a bit of help, thanks Zoli ) got the new front drive shaft in the 80 . It not has a double cardin joint up near the transfer case and the front diff has had the castors corrected with a new slightly dropped bracket for the front castor hole. This has pretty much got rid of 95% of the vibration from my truck.
It was a bit painfull as we had to cut off the studs from the transfer flange and drill new 10mm holes though the flange as the double cardin has a different hole spacing to the stud pattern. We then replaced the studs with 10mm high tensile bolts about 25mm long and then chamfer the nut to slide it behind, you need the chamfer for the protector plate between the transfer case and the flange as without it the nuts dont fit.
However there is still a bit of vibration when you power off fairly heavily at around 80 to 100, but nothin like it was, But i have to say that it is a big impovement on what it was like. At least i can now drive around at normal speeds without big vibrations.
I must point out that i didnt get much vibration after i removed the front drive shaft and engaged the central diff lock ( running in 2wd ). If you have vibration even in 2wd this i would doubt would help. You may like to check your wheel bearings, make sure they are tight ( one of my front ones was loose ). But if you still get vibration only running the rear tail shaft and you some how fix the problem let me know what you did i would be interested.
It is atleast now at a very barable level.
chris
It was a bit painfull as we had to cut off the studs from the transfer flange and drill new 10mm holes though the flange as the double cardin has a different hole spacing to the stud pattern. We then replaced the studs with 10mm high tensile bolts about 25mm long and then chamfer the nut to slide it behind, you need the chamfer for the protector plate between the transfer case and the flange as without it the nuts dont fit.
However there is still a bit of vibration when you power off fairly heavily at around 80 to 100, but nothin like it was, But i have to say that it is a big impovement on what it was like. At least i can now drive around at normal speeds without big vibrations.
I must point out that i didnt get much vibration after i removed the front drive shaft and engaged the central diff lock ( running in 2wd ). If you have vibration even in 2wd this i would doubt would help. You may like to check your wheel bearings, make sure they are tight ( one of my front ones was loose ). But if you still get vibration only running the rear tail shaft and you some how fix the problem let me know what you did i would be interested.
It is atleast now at a very barable level.
chris
I'm still wondering ifthe vibration is coming from the coils. Maybe a bit of harmonic vibration to the running of the car.
The other thing it could be that the rear tail shaft is slightly out of balance or a bit worn on the spline. maybe even a slightly worn uni will do that.
I've had all 3 of the above
Cheers
Zol
The other thing it could be that the rear tail shaft is slightly out of balance or a bit worn on the spline. maybe even a slightly worn uni will do that.
I've had all 3 of the above
Cheers
Zol
nah i dont think so
i can still feel alot of harsh vibration throught the transfer case lever but no longer through the truck since i put the double cardin in. Alteast most of it has gone.
I agree there may be somevibrations resonating from teh springs but this is fairly minor in comparison to the main vibrations i am feeling from the transfer.
chris
i can still feel alot of harsh vibration throught the transfer case lever but no longer through the truck since i put the double cardin in. Alteast most of it has gone.
I agree there may be somevibrations resonating from teh springs but this is fairly minor in comparison to the main vibrations i am feeling from the transfer.
chris
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