GQ Suspension....which way to go???

[collins110]

i recently upgraded to a GQ and trying to do some research into suspension options.

now what i want:

- It will be used for winch competitions but also have fairly decent flex
- Suitable to drive onroad
-Low Centre of gravity but still having decent ground clearance.
-Running 35x12.5x16’s

what iv somewhat figured is the ultimate option would be coil over’s with hydraulic rams so in situations the height of the suspension can be altered in cab like Mad Fabs GU. But at the moment id rather not get into hydro/air setups (later down the track maybe). so ideas of what the best option is would be great. Dont mind doing inner guard chops but want to stay away from body lifts.

any info would be helpfull
thanks

[MEGATROL]

i have a GQ ute and run in winch comps up here in central qld, i run 4" coils and 6" shocks with coil retainers with 37" tyres, i do have a 2" body lift but if i was to build anutha truck id do without it, but this set up is simple and works great offroad.

main thing is to get ur suspension geomitry back to normal, and to do this i run superior 4" drop boxes to correct the castor, and slightly longer lower arms on the rear but still a standard 5 link setup, but will soon be upgrading to a set of superior long arms to improve the back end for climbing.

compaird to some of the setups that other blokes i race with mine is a reasonably simple and cheap setup yet still verry practicle and easily driven on road with as good a handeling you will get with a lifted truck. id spend more money on other bits for ur truck like a kickass winch and engine peformance and the like.

but thats just my opinion but goodluck with wateva way you choose.

Pickels

[collins110]

cool thanks thats exactly what i needed to know. just another question: what brand of coils and shocks do you run?

thanks

[collins110]

yeah im actually pulling out the motor next week. what im going to do:

-Larger re-bore, larger pistons, different cam, valves, port and polished head, carby work, dyno tuning and eventually turbo and inter-cooled.

fingers crossed ill have it in and running in two weeks.

[Suspension Stuff]

https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au/shop ... ts_id=1080" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
That link explains what you need, what you might want and why.
I will get SRC shocks.

[collins110]

https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au/shop ... ts_id=1080
That link explains what you need, what you might want and why.
I will get SRC shocks.

thanks for going to the trouble of posting that link. i should have mentioned that id be sourcing these items individually and making many items that is in that kit. Plus considering using King shocks or maybe fox shocks...

[Suspension Stuff]

Ok, I will put a bit more effort into it.

CENTRE OF GRAVITY
Move front upper shock mount up so you can run bigger shocks without needing bigger bump stops.
Move the rear lower shock mount up to the diff, move the upper mount twice as far so you don't have to raise bump stops.
Body lift is required to fit the tyres into the guards.
Drop boxes as previously said, keeps your arms as level as possible.

FLEXY COILS
https://www.suspensionstuff.com.au/shop ... ts_id=2882" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; These coils are guaranteed not to sag even with competition use. 3 inches better flex then a normal coil so you can keep the centre of gravity low. We have them in a 2" and every half inch up to a 6" lift. Normal and extra heavy rear.

SHOCKS
SRC shocks are better then Fox.
Kings are bigger and better then SRC but some still prefer the SRC and Kings are twice the price.

I am going to be trialing Bilstein remote reservoir in the Patrol but I won't know the longevity on a Patrol for at least a year.

Shocks are really important in my opinion. A fast motor won't help much if you can't keep the tyres on the ground.

SWAY BAR
You will be more capable if you fit a custom rear sway bar, something that won't limit your flex and something that won't get knocked off in the rocks. Some use heavier duty rear coils which we do provide but your capablity and ride quality will suffer.

WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION
I would try to keep all the weight between the front and rear tyres.
I am mid mounting my radiator, batteries, winch, fuel. Chopping the chassis and everything off behind the rear panhard rod.

[Suspension Stuff]

If you want to get fancy, level out your panhard rods and drag link or double triangulated 4 link or A-Frame.
Longer level lower trailng arms do make a decent difference.

[RIPNMUD]

I PUT A 6IN LIFT IN MINE ALL IRONMAN AND HAVE BEEN DRIVING FOR ABOUT 6 MONTHS ON ROAD AND HARD OFFROAD WORK ALMOST EVERY WEEKEND AND HAVE BEEN EXTREAMLY IMPRESSED WITH IT AND IT WAS MUCH CHEAPER THAN ANY OTHER BRAND

[turps]

I PUT A 6IN LIFT IN MINE ALL IRONMAN AND HAVE BEEN DRIVING FOR ABOUT 6 MONTHS ON ROAD AND HARD OFFROAD WORK ALMOST EVERY WEEKEND AND HAVE BEEN EXTREAMLY IMPRESSED WITH IT AND IT WAS MUCH CHEAPER THAN ANY OTHER BRAND

What is actually in your Ironman setup. If its just 6inch coils and shocks. I would have a guess that your car actually handles like crap compared to something properly sorted. If it has other mods, such as drop boxes. Then it may handle a little better other than top heavy. If it also has longer lower control arms. Then I would say it would handle and put power to the ground nice for still running basic shocks.

[teemothy]

I would have a guess that your car actually handles like crap compared to something properly sorted

From your post I would have a guess that you are a f#@kwit who likes to add his two cents when it wasn't even asked for.....How do u know it isn't properly sorted, the guy did say he was impressed with it....

Best Regards

[bigzook1]

keep ur suspension standard buddy. ive got 36x12.5s on my gq wagon. cut the guards to make them fit, good shocks and ur laughin. you would b amazed at how much safer it feels on side angels even compared to a 2 inch lift that i did have in it. and the standard springs are the best ride on the road to

[turps]

I would have a guess that your car actually handles like crap compared to something properly sorted

From your post I would have a guess that you are a f#@kwit who likes to add his two cents when it wasn't even asked for.....How do u know it isn't properly sorted, the guy did say he was impressed with it....

Best Regards

Just found there listing for a 6" lift and i stand by what i type.
http://www.ironman4x4.com/html/nissan/94.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Now for a very budget setup that might work. Bit like I was very happy with my OME coils and Koni shocks. It worked for me, but after driving some cars with better setups. I found mine suxed. And that wasnt a sorted set up either, the owner was still making changes.

Anyway looking at the kit, I am sure it will bind and have massive bump steer. As the rear lower arms are still short, the front radius arms are still steep and binding on the pin which just chews out bushes. It still uses the std sway bar, which seemed to make no to little difference in most patrols I have driven. After market sway bars actually feel like there doing something.
The brake lines and panhard rods look good.

Over all I think this person wants to much out of there car. A winch challenge car handles well at speed. From memory the Madfab GU is for going slow and aint going to be allowed to drive on road anyway.

Is that a better explanation f#@kwit.
I still standby my comment that this susp kit is now where near what this guy wants as far as performance goes.

[pigletracing]

has anyone asked what comps & what class he intends to go in. I have read threw ,but might have mised it.

I have a production class GQ with a TJM GOLD 5" lift kit, adjustable panhard rods,gearbox spacers,longer breaklines,I didnt go the drop boxes but opted for drop arms instead (but drop boxes are about $1000 cheaper) I run 35" tyres on 10" rims with internal beadlocks & very minamul scrub issues.

These NEW TJM GOLD SERIES shocks have H/D German valving I took part in some of the R&D testing for 2 years in events around AUS ,heres some footage
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cf475_Yy3F4" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. they are a shock that have been build to sit beside the likes of KONI, they are a fully re-buildable shock with a 3 year warrenty they RRP @ $169 each & FORUM MEMBERS get a discount that takes them under $120 each, these are a shock that your mum & dad would put on to tour AUS but you could hard core comp on weekends.

TJM SUSPENSION & DIFF LOCKS ARE COVERED BY WARRENTY EVEN WHEN USED IN COMPS ON COMP RIGS.

I GIVE ALL FORUM MEMBERS HUGE DISCOUNTS (forum pricing) ON ALL TJM PRODUCT

call piggy at TJM COOPERS PLAINS 07-32778255 or pm me for pricing (heres an eg:- rooftop tents for that cape trip normaly $1595, forum price = $1274.)

[MEGATROL]

i agree with turps that iornman kit will work and would probly be ok for a weekender but as said at speed or any bumps for that matter the front diff will try and do a 180' kickflip and try and tear the front arms out, in my opinion and experiance as i have had castor plates they are the worst invention especially for racing, i swear by drop boxes and to answer ur question collins110 i run lovells coils, there ok but there are defantly better brands out there, like its been said the dobinson flexicoils seem to have a good rep goi for them and as for shocks i run toughdog bigbores in the front and there probly abt a year old and are nearly stuffed so wont be getting them again and the rear i run "powerdown" truck shocks, good length shock about $190 each there built for running in semis and trucks im on my 2nd set in 5 years, wich im happy with possibly not the best breed of shock out there but they work well for me and are reliable.

Pickels

[OUTLAW565]

Give Shane at suspension stuff a call.