Coming out of my previous thread (http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic161550.php) I am looking at doing the 3RZ swap into my Hilux single cab (1986 YN67 Single cab manual 4Y powered). What I am aiming to achieve is the definitive guide for the conversion to help enable others contemplating the conversion.
Little info on the engine:
3RZ-FE (2.7 4cyl) - 150@4800 / 177@4000
3VZ-E (3.0 6cyl)- 150@4800 / 180@3400
Take two identical vehicles and run a 2.7 vs a 3.0 and the 3.0 will get spanked, period. The 2.7 is lighter and much more rev-happy. I do not believe that the 3.0 V6 can hang with a 2.7 I4. That is my opinion.
Some cool numbers that show why the 3RZ is the real deal:
22R: 40 HP per liter
22R-E: 47 HP per liter
3VZ-E (3.0): 50 HP per liter
5VZ-E (3.4): 54 HP per liter
22R-TE: 56 HP per liter * TURBO *
3RZ-FE (2.7): 56 HP per liter * NO TURBO *
First off is to purchase the engine. These engines both came in the Hilux and Prado in Australia and I am lead to believe that purchasing the manual version is more appropriate as otherwise the ecu needs to be changed to a manual ecu, otherwise with the auto loom you will need to short the Park safety switch with the "START" position wire (Yellow-gray) to fool the ECU into believing that you are always in Park each time the vehicle is Started.
Mounting the engine is realitivly straight forward, you can use the 2wd gearbox bell housing which also allows the use of the 3RZ clutch/flywheel to be retained, or it will also bolt up to W56/G52 fine. Can anyone confirm for me what slave cylinder needs to be used, and if the clutch line needs to be lengthened??? Once the gearbox is bolted up, grind the origional engine mounts for the existing engine off the chassis, then lower the engine/box into the bay, bolt the tailshaft/gearbox mounts into place, seat the engine mounts on the chassis making sure they are aligned and weld into place.
I believe the following needs to be made in order to finish off the conversion (please feel free to add or correct me on these):
- Dependant on snorkel location (passenger side on mine), 180 degree bend needed to point air intake towards original filter box location.
- New radiator to be fitted with drivers side inlet and passenger side outlet, diesel radiator is built larger than stock so may be worthwhile
- New exhaust/or re-welding to existing exhaust
- New power steer line to be created (can anyone confirm this???)
- External fuel pump/surge tank, or 4 Runner V6 tank apparently is appropriate.
Electrical sides of things seems to be realtivly simple, required other than what is supplied is two relays, one for fuel pump, one for EFI. I believe battery cables need to be lengthened as well, can anyone confirm?
Below is wiring that needs to be completed:
PLUG A (26 pin) - Connect to Computer Untouched
> PLUG B (16 pin) - Connect to Computer Untouched
>
> PLUG C (22 pin) - Connect to Computer - With the Following Additions
> (from
> the original body harness)
>
> ESSENTIAL:
> C1 Yellow +ve Constant 12V+ from a
> fused battery source - input
> C11 Pink & Black +ve Starter motor
> trigger ie. ign switch - input
> C12 Red & Blue +ve Supplied from EFI
> relay - input
> C14 Green & Yellow -ve Trigger for fuel
> pump relay - output
> 2 x 4 Pole Relays (EFI & Fuel Pump)
>
> NON ESSENTIAL:
> C4 Green & White Connect to stop
> light switch - input
> C5 Violet & Green -ve Check engine light -
> output
> C8 Red & White Tacho - output
> C9 Green & Orange Vehicle Speed Sensor - input
> C13 Green & Black 4WD Switch - input
>
> PLUG D (13 pin) - Supply the following sources into the loom
>
> ESSENTIAL:
> D1 Top Row Red & Blue +ve Supply to
> airflow meter from EFI relay - input
> D2 Bottom Row Black & Brown +ve Supply to ignition
> coil from EFI relay - input
> D6 Bottom Row Brown -ve Earthed to chassis -
> input
>
> PLUG E - Engine Diagnosis Port
Some various information in regards to 3RZ:
berad wrote:cam will be a no no, the ecu wont take it, i tried many things with my 2wd 3rz, the stock computer wont cope with it.
the 3rz coils have built in ignitors hence the 3 wires instead of the 2.
The crank angle sensor is magnetic NOT hall effect
Cam angle sensor is used as HOME but not needed.
The cas is a 34 tooth wheel, but in the trigger setup it needs to be put in as 68 tooth
Some good links to peruse on the subject:
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic143978-0-asc-0.php
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic113500.php
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.ph ... hlight=3rz
Now I am sure there is a wealth of other information out there that I have missed perusing around, even if they are small things please post them up here so that I know for my conversion, and others for theres.