85 n/t sierra RUF?

[:)lUkE:)]

I have done some searching but cannot find any narrow track RUF info

Can you do a re-drill RUF on a N/T using stock rear springs? or do the mounts need to be moved

currently i have 2 inch shackles on stock springs and running 31's but am looking for more flex so i am looking for some feed back

[zukmeista]

Yes you can, but that is a dodgy way of doing RUF. To do it right you need to increase the distance between the spring mounts to the same/ similar on the rear.Look at this link for the correct way to do it. http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... ic&t=21321

[MazdaSpater]

I did a little chassis extension, and made a tiny set of missing links that sit the shackle 35-40mm foward. They were only meant to test the theory, if it is too loose I will move the factory mounts foward.
With nylon bobbins between chassis and top of MLs it give some adjustment to the spring and diff angle so it might be worth considering though.

I have pics and will put them in the buildup thread once I get it going, send me a PM if you need them sooner. Definately worth doing though, I have only gone to the shops and back, so much smoother.

[Gwagensteve]

Yes you can

Are you sure? The NT spring hanger is much smaller than the WT hanger and has much less room to redrill the spring bush bolt hole.

I suppose it's possible, but it's even more hack than "normal" 1/2 RUF.

Steve.

[:)lUkE:)]

Yes you can

Are you sure? The NT spring hanger is much smaller than the WT hanger and has much less room to redrill the spring bush bolt hole.

I suppose it's possible, but it's even more hack than "normal" 1/2 RUF.

Steve.

Thats what i thought, i had a look at the hanger and it seems pretty small to be re drilling it?

Its not that i dont have the skill to do the rail extension as i am a panel beater, its that Im happy with my wheel placement at the moment as i have no firewall clearence issues and i am already slightly hitting the headlight bucket on full compression, so i dont really wanna move the diff forward but i would like the front to flex more (on a budget).

i have considered cutting the rear mount off and moving it backward but the rails really drop down alot lower where the i would be moving it to but i spose this is not a problem as it would just lift the front a little, right?

[Gwagensteve]

It would lift the front a tiny bit and increase caster, but that's what I'd be doing if you don't want the wheelbase extension.

Steve.

[:)lUkE:)]

so would that counteract the caster problem caused by the shackles?

[Gwagensteve]

Yes, but that just means your shackles are too long or your shackle hanger is in the wrong place. RUF, regardless of how it is done, is a balance of shackle length, bumpstop height, caster, and chassis extension/spring hanger setback.

It's not totally trial and error, but there's a bit of figuring out. You're looking for the flattest possible shackle angle that doesn't invert, with the shortest possible shackle that allows full droop.

Steve.

[ricky1970]

I done my NT last weekend. Half heartly looked at the re-drill on the rear mount, then gave up on it. Added 50mm to the front of the chassis (30 would have been ok), used the stock rear mount, front mount moved forward 30mm, std rear springs (4 leaf), +20mm (90mm) shackles, moved the bumpstops froward and the lower shock mount back a bit. Diff went forward 25-30mm.

It has 30mm bumpstop spacers with commo shocks. Springs are a bit saged and sit pretty flat. Has about 1" bumpstop clearance after i pulled a feaf out. Ride and steers better, has a bit more body roll and flexes a whole lot better than before.