80 series ABS Brakes

[nic80]

Hi All.

I have a 97 model 40th aniv. 80 Series with a 6" lift, 35" tyres.
(also fitted the brake proportioning valve bracket from Superior Eng)
I had fitted the part time conversion kit from Marks.
As soon as the kit was fitted, the ABS warning light comes on in the dash.
I have disconnected the ABS sensor off the front hub as directed by the guys who fitted the part time kit.

The Brakes are now Dangerous! They Just wont pull the truck up...

How do I get around this problem?

Thanks

[80's_delirious]

did you say something?







boobies

[popeyehj60]

was this happening before the part time kit and the abs plug was touched

[nic80]

No Mate I havent been back over the see them yet.

It has only Happened since the part Time Kit was Installed.

[oldmate]

the abs needs the wheel sensors to work. To retain the stock setup you'd have to run with the hubs locked all the time.

Only way around it is a custom setup so that the abs senses wheel speed off the hub, and not the cv shaft.

[nic80]

So is there a way that I cant get rid of the ABS and Just have Standard Brakes? Still unsure the best way to fix the problem

[oldmate]

Pull the ABS fuse. If the lights stays on, remove the light.

[popeyehj60]

Abs shouldnt affect the brake operation under normal conditions.
might pay to go over the front axle again and check the callipers, brake lines, wheel bearings etc

[Spartacus]

have you pulled the abs relay thing out and cleaned it?

my ABS would run continuosly after the car was turned off.

[fancyman]

I have the same 80 series. i replaced my pads my master cyclinder in front of booster, but the brakes still dont pull it up, and now the brake light comes on the dash, anyone know what i can do.

[Simo63]

The brakes won't be much different in operation with or without the ABS sensors (aside from the obvious ability to lock them up). Assuming that the brakes worked fine before the lift, it sounds to me like your problem is a lot to do with the brake proportioning system. I know you said you used the superior eng brake proportioning braket but you need to make sure there is real brake pressure getting to the rear calipers otherwise your brake performance will be severely hampered.

Like I said, assuming that the brakes were all good before the lift and that the lines aren't stretched or kinked, then this is the place I would start to look first.

Good luck.

[Jonno308]

I'd rather drive the 80 without ABS. I'ts more dangerous than safe off road. My 80 gave me shits trying to stop out on the tracks when in high range. I know the ABS turns off when in low but I wanted it off in high too.

[Simo63]

I'd rather drive the 80 without ABS. I'ts more dangerous than safe off road. My 80 gave me shits trying to stop out on the tracks when in high range. I know the ABS turns off when in low but I wanted it off in high too.

Mate I know what you mean .. ABS combined with a lifted 80 on muddies in a greasy track is bad news.

But the good news is Jonno that the fix is easy ... so easy even a nuffy like me has managed to do it with my 94 ABS 80 series. All you need to do is buy the centre diff lock switch (as the wiring is behind the dashboard) and plug it in. So you can now select centre diff lock when in high range AND the ABS will turn off .

The other thing you should now do is disconnect the switch at the rear of the transfer that automatically selects diff lock when low range is selected. I did this so I can back my boat or caravan around the yard in low range without the centre diff lock being engaged. It's been a few years since I did mine but from memory the switch is at the back of transfer box up the top. I'm sure there is a thread about it either here or on LCOOL. Search is your friend.

Once you do that you now have full control over when the centre diff lock and ABS are engaged

Cheers
Simo

[nic80]

Ok.........

So after a new master cylinder being fitted, full brake system flush and the removal of the ABS fuse, The brakes are no different at all. The Pedal will come up after giving it a good pump before you want to slow the cars down.

Would it be worth removing the ABS system completley and just plumbing the brake lines seperatley to the front and the back of the car?

Thanks.

[Jonno308]

That does'nt sound like an ABS problem. If your's is a drum rear, I'd say its a wheel cylinder thats gone. If it's discs, I reckon its the LSPV on the RHS chassis rail above the rear diff. I had the same problem with mine once I lifted it. I Replaced mine and bent the rod a bit and it worked fine.

[Simo63]

Ok.........

So after a new master cylinder being fitted, full brake system flush and the removal of the ABS fuse, The brakes are no different at all. The Pedal will come up after giving it a good pump before you want to slow the cars down.

Would it be worth removing the ABS system completley and just plumbing the brake lines seperatley to the front and the back of the car?

Thanks.

No don't remove the ABS system, your car will then be illegally modified and if you have an accident you might be in deep shit.

Like I said before it sounds to me like your brake proportioning valve and rod setup isn't working or adjusted correctly after the lift.

Stop spending money replacing parts that are probably perfectly serviceable and look there first.