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Surfection wrote:I'm not going to say that in most cases for most people Black Pipe won't do the job. However in my experience the strength difference between this and CDS or CDW tube is massive. Using a Protools or JD bender pictured below you could really tell the difference between bending the 2 different types of material in the same (3.2mm) wall thickness. I had a 1.5 mtr handle on my bender and could bend Black Pipe one handed with no real thought to where my hand was on the handle, by simple walking back with my body weight on the handle. With CDW or CDS it took both hands right at the end of the handle and most of the strength that my massive 68kg body weight could use to pull with. You also got less spring back with the tube than you did with the pipe, and the tube being better quality material was far kinder to the dies.
I would highly reccomend spending the extra $$$ and contacting Performance Metals or another specialist steel supplier to use quality tube, not pipe. It will pay for itself in the long run if you plan on keeping the car and driving it hard, it may also save your life.
Both myself and a good mate of mine own jd benders,i have only bent seam NB in my bender and it took my whole body weight(64kgs) and both hands on the end of the extension to bend it,not sure how youve done it with 1 arm.Maybe your handle is longer im not sure,we are using the standard handle and extension that came with the bender.
Cheers for the suggestion zoltan,ill have a look into it tomorrow
DIRTY ROCK STAR wrote:
im going to google a borneo sucker fish.
sounds like the code name for dudelux when he cross dresses and smokes pencil.
Why use weld in bungs and not just tap or machine the threads in? I have seen plenty of weld in bungs break welds and come out. Just a thought. I tapped my 1 1/4 UNF threads into my ends. My material was about 46od and 26id.
ive been thinking about that also as bein an option. it will just be a pain in the ass for the 8LH threads i have. could maybe get a tap or machine em LH in the lathe but it all takes time.
sierra truggy,37 sticky treps,propane,6.5s and disconnect,lux diffs with spools,16" fox shox,hydro steer.
nastytroll wrote:Why use weld in bungs and not just tap or machine the threads in? I have seen plenty of weld in bungs break welds and come out. Just a thought. I tapped my 1 1/4 UNF threads into my ends. My material was about 46od and 26id.
because thats how they come in the package ive got
Also i dont think my welds will break,if they do ive got alot bigger things to worry about than some link ends EG Engine,gearbox and transfer would fall out if my welds failed
DIRTY ROCK STAR wrote:
im going to google a borneo sucker fish.
sounds like the code name for dudelux when he cross dresses and smokes pencil.
nastytroll wrote:Why use weld in bungs and not just tap or machine the threads in? I have seen plenty of weld in bungs break welds and come out. Just a thought. I tapped my 1 1/4 UNF threads into my ends. My material was about 46od and 26id.
because thats how they come in the package ive got
Also i dont think my welds will break,if they do ive got alot bigger things to worry about than some link ends EG Engine,gearbox and transfer would fall out if my welds failed
I'd imagine your links will be under a fair bit more stress that your mounts. I and everyone I know over-engineers these to hell and back, as a byproduct of the area that they need to be bolted to...
That said, a good weld isn't hard, and excellent weld is....
ferog wrote:I've had worse smelling fingers though.
Yeah understand what your saying mate,id imagine though that with the amount of torque twist in an ls1 that the engine mounts will have a fairly high stress load.
Im a 2nd class welder almost a 1st class soon so they should be right
DIRTY ROCK STAR wrote:
im going to google a borneo sucker fish.
sounds like the code name for dudelux when he cross dresses and smokes pencil.
georgey wrote:Yeah understand what your saying mate,id imagine though that with the amount of torque twist in an ls1 that the engine mounts will have a fairly high stress load.
Mulitply that engine mount stress load by your t/case ratio, your diff ratio, the difference in separation (approx 300%) between engine mounts and link mounts, and the leverage factor of your tyres. That's the torque your link mounts and rod ends are seeing
The torque numbers that get transferred out of an axle housing and into the chassis tend to be pretty big.
Watch some King of the hammers and look at some of the big dollar trucks that have bung welds fail. There were a few at tuff truck this year too.
If I was going to weld bungs in I would want it to be long on the internal spigot and plug weld the inside end through a 12mm or so hole that has a big champher and a full V prep at the shoulder on the end of the link pipe. That will take any side movement out and stop the weld area fatiguing. It also means that the welded spots at the rear of the bung will have to pull through the link material if the end weld or all the welds let go from the link, so effectively pinning the bung.
I am currently using 45/25 hollow bar to suit 1.25" joints. 29.5mm is the tapping drill size but I have a lathe so I just bore it out & then tap the ends in the lathe.
With your heims I would just find hollow bar to suit & do the same.
If you are local to me I am happy to do it for you.
georgey wrote:Thanks for the offer brooksy but im in newcastle.
I have access to a lathe but ill have to go and buy the right tap.
Thanks for the info mate
cut the thread with the lathe?
D22 Navara....hydro coilovers, hydro steer, 42's...
76 Landcruiser tow rig
georgey wrote:Thanks for the offer brooksy but im in newcastle.
I have access to a lathe but ill have to go and buy the right tap.
Thanks for the info mate
cut the thread with the lathe?
Seemed pretty obvious to me...
Unless it doesn't have a feed?
ferog wrote:I've had worse smelling fingers though.
Doing internal threads isn't easy without experience, correct tooling (internal threading boring bar), threading tips, lathe in good enough condition with backlash, etc.
I have seen some major FU's even by tradesman in my time in workshops.
Buying a tap (long series) & preferably spiral tap makes for a cost effect purchase & an easier job using tailstock & live centre.
Havent learnt how cut threads yet.
Im a welder not a fitter lol havent had alot of experience with lathes and what i have done is only drilling,boring and making things to exact sizes.
DIRTY ROCK STAR wrote:
im going to google a borneo sucker fish.
sounds like the code name for dudelux when he cross dresses and smokes pencil.
$64 for lh set
$64 for normal set + freight on them all
dunno if theyd be good quality or not. i myself have recently bought heims with weld in bungs and was hoping i could go this option. even chased up hollow bar through my old work to suit so now i dunno what to do
sierra truggy,37 sticky treps,propane,6.5s and disconnect,lux diffs with spools,16" fox shox,hydro steer.
How much did 16 heims with postage set you back mate?Pm me if you dont want to say.
Just wondering if its cheaper buying 16 from the staes without bungs or 16 here.Price here from locktup is $1300 for 16 heims,jam nut and weld in bungs.Little bit less without the bungs.
cheers
DIRTY ROCK STAR wrote:
im going to google a borneo sucker fish.
sounds like the code name for dudelux when he cross dresses and smokes pencil.
georgey wrote:How much did 16 heims with postage set you back mate?Pm me if you dont want to say.
Just wondering if its cheaper buying 16 from the staes without bungs or 16 here.Price here from locktup is $1300 for 16 heims,jam nut and weld in bungs.Little bit less without the bungs.
cheers
its cheaper to go to wreckers and use patrol susp bush's, but thats me lol
the wrecker option where i am is no good.i got mine with the dollar at about $1.03ish
i got 16x3/4 joints with weld in bungs and misalignment spacers for $ 520 to the door
in the past i have bought 6.5 gears,cromo cvs,locrights,wheel spacers,airshocks etc off them and have never had a trouble.longest order has been 2 weeks.Sean is great if you have any questions too
sierra truggy,37 sticky treps,propane,6.5s and disconnect,lux diffs with spools,16" fox shox,hydro steer.
