If bearing puller tools remove bearings, what pushes them in

Post by **TheOtherLeft** » Tue Jun 21, 2011 9:56 pm

If you use a bearing puller to remove a bearing from a pulley, what do you use to push a new bearing in if you don't have a press?

Post by **atari4x4** » Tue Jun 21, 2011 10:23 pm

vice & a couple of sockets

Post by **metak** » Tue Jun 21, 2011 10:27 pm

an oven and a freezer heat the bearing chill the other component eg pinion and it will fall all the way home if done correctly

Post by **toaddog** » Tue Jun 21, 2011 11:59 pm

A press of course

Post by **Willy Hilux** » Wed Jun 22, 2011 12:57 am

a FBH, but make sure you square it up first..

Post by **V.W.Dave** » Wed Jun 22, 2011 12:41 pm

All depends on the aplocation. All the answers above will work at the designated job. You also have race drivers, g clamps, pullers, use the old bearing and a hammer and and and and. Just needto find the way that works fir what you are doing

Post by **DamTriton** » Wed Jun 22, 2011 2:15 pm

metak wrote:an oven and a freezer heat the bearing chill the other component eg pinion and it will fall all the way home if done correctly

Not always...

"heat the outer and cool the inner"

For a wheelbearing into a hub you would heat the hub and cool the bearing.

If you are going to tap the bearing in, use a piece of wood between the bearing and hammer. This prevents the metal to metal scouring that may occur if you get the bearing off square to the hole it is going into, ie the wood takes the worst of the ding than the metal-metal contact..

Post by **80's_delirious** » Wed Jun 22, 2011 7:22 pm

metak wrote:an oven and a freezer heat the bearing chill the other component eg pinion and it will fall all the way home if done correctly

make sure you do it when the missus aint home

dirty gear oil in the freezer would go down a treat

Post by **chris_stoffa** » Wed Jun 22, 2011 7:57 pm

A "Bearing Pusher Tool "

Post by **tehekho** » Wed Jun 22, 2011 8:03 pm

80's_delirious wrote:
metak wrote:an oven and a freezer heat the bearing chill the other component eg pinion and it will fall all the way home if done correctly
make sure you do it when the missus aint home dirty gear oil in the freezer would go down a treat

Don't have a missus

Post by **DUDELUX** » Wed Jun 22, 2011 9:12 pm

I use the timber offcut and hammer method, as posted above.

Post by **Yo_jono** » Thu Jun 23, 2011 11:55 am

Can you give it too someone with a press?

Post by **TheOtherLeft** » Thu Jun 23, 2011 4:32 pm

Yo_jono wrote:Can you give it too someone with a press?

I'm just thinking of some more self-sufficient options.

Post by **chunderlicious** » Thu Jun 23, 2011 8:04 pm

best bet (depending on tolerances) is heat whatever is being fitted over something and cool whatever is fitting inside something. the tighter the tolerance the more heat and cooling required (to a point obviously). then BFH and a punch, remember, mild steel, copper, brass, plastics, timber punch on bearing cups wont cause damage within reason, problems occur when people use hardened punches on bearings.

and a press isnt the best idea alot of the time, can cause alot of damage and scoring etc. if things arent lined up well. with a hammer and punch it will stop moving, with a press itll just gouge it out till it fits.

Post by **GUtripper** » Thu Jun 23, 2011 10:44 pm

A block of hardwood and a hammer may do the trick to place the new bearing home..... in the past I've also used the old (ie removed/replaced) bearing in place of a peice of wood. Saves scoring the new bearing with hammer marks.

Post by **brooksy** » Fri Jun 24, 2011 8:18 pm

A very important thing that has been missed is in the case of say a bearing going onto a shaft you need to "ONLY" be hitting the inner race, the opposite if bearing is being knocked into a bore or housing - the outer race only.
Many bearings have been fubar'd due to dolly, punch, etc being concentrated on the incorrect part of the bearing.
Also try stay away from wood as it can splinter &/or bounce, best dolly is a soft metal such as bronze, brass, copper & aluminium. You will also get a more positive force/blow & take less effort compared to wood.

brooksy

Post by **Northside 4x4** » Fri Jun 24, 2011 9:16 pm

An alloy race set is the best.

As its much softer than the bearing race you have a zero percent chance of damaging the race.

It also allows a large contact surface on the convex race to aid in aliment.

I often find I use this combined with a copper faced hammer alot more than a press as it is much quicker.

Post by **TheOtherLeft** » Fri Jun 24, 2011 9:27 pm

Northside 4x4 wrote:An alloy race set is the best.

As its much softer than the bearing race you have a zero percent chance of damaging the race.

It also allows a large contact surface on the convex race to aid in aliment.

I often find I use this combined with a copper faced hammer alot more than a press as it is much quicker.

What's an alloy race set? My googling came up with alloy wheels.

Post by **thehanko** » Sat Jun 25, 2011 1:57 pm

TheOtherLeft wrote:
Northside 4x4 wrote:An alloy race set is the best.

As its much softer than the bearing race you have a zero percent chance of damaging the race.

It also allows a large contact surface on the convex race to aid in aliment.

I often find I use this combined with a copper faced hammer alot more than a press as it is much quicker.
What's an alloy race set? My googling came up with alloy wheels.

needed to add bearing into your search

http://automotivebearinghuttop.co.cc/be ... r-10pc-set

Post by **MICK77** » Sat Jun 25, 2011 1:59 pm

brooksy wrote:A very important thing that has been missed is in the case of say a bearing going onto a shaft you need to "ONLY" be hitting the inner race, the opposite if bearing is being knocked into a bore or housing - the outer race only.
Many bearings have been fubar'd due to dolly, punch, etc being concentrated on the incorrect part of the bearing.
Also try stay away from wood as it can splinter &/or bounce, best dolly is a soft metal such as bronze, brass, copper & aluminium. You will also get a more positive force/blow & take less effort compared to wood.

brooksy

This is great info.
I have seen many bearing failures due do incorrect installation.

Cheers,

Micko

Post by **dogbreath_48** » Sun Jun 26, 2011 1:37 am

Bearings installed with a press is the best option IMO, assuming everything is properly square, lubed and properly prepared (smooth).

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If bearing puller tools remove bearings, what pushes them in

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