Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
problem with wiring stereo..
Moderator: -Scott-
Okay, two "diagrams" (aka "scrawls") depending on whether the convertor has a trigger or not.
Maybe Macca or somebody could take a look and see if he thinks what I have done to maintain memory is okay - I am using one of the existing (low current) 12V continuous wires PLUS the convertor to supply the continous power to the stereo.
The result of this is:
- when the key is on ACC, you have heaps of power coming from your new 12V source - up to 20A.
- when the ignition is off, you still have some power available using the old 12V convertor that's in the car (mainly for the stereo memory). This was not enough to run the stereo but it might be enough to run the CB - you'll have to suck it and see. If not, turning the key to ACC gives you the juice.
...
The FAT wires on the left represent existing wiring in the car.
The wires to the stereo should have fuses in them as part of the stereo's wiring loom, same deal with the CB. Power the CB from the same point as the yellow wire to the stereo.
The whole system, 12V and 24V, should have a common ground.
Guys, if I have fugged up let me know and I'll edit the pics; I'd hate to leave crap on the board for some future sucker to find.
Jason
Maybe Macca or somebody could take a look and see if he thinks what I have done to maintain memory is okay - I am using one of the existing (low current) 12V continuous wires PLUS the convertor to supply the continous power to the stereo.
The result of this is:
- when the key is on ACC, you have heaps of power coming from your new 12V source - up to 20A.
- when the ignition is off, you still have some power available using the old 12V convertor that's in the car (mainly for the stereo memory). This was not enough to run the stereo but it might be enough to run the CB - you'll have to suck it and see. If not, turning the key to ACC gives you the juice.
...
The FAT wires on the left represent existing wiring in the car.
The wires to the stereo should have fuses in them as part of the stereo's wiring loom, same deal with the CB. Power the CB from the same point as the yellow wire to the stereo.
The whole system, 12V and 24V, should have a common ground.
Guys, if I have fugged up let me know and I'll edit the pics; I'd hate to leave crap on the board for some future sucker to find.
Jason
This is not legal advice.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests