Ok before I get flamed I flicked through some pages and did some searching and couldn't find what I want
What have people go for their 3-4' lifts on 100 series land cruisers
I am eyeing up a stage 5 kit from superior engineering but I know that there are some things within that I would change.
Do you need the extend control arms for the rear, the people I go wheeling with haven't bothered and so I am just wondering I know a caster correct on the front is a must have for steering issues
and if anyone can recommend some good shocks it would be good and I only have experience with Old Man Emu and would like to broden my horizons
I would like a bolt on upgrade where possible as I just don't have the time to play with anything else.. unfortunately...
sorry that this topic is probably repeated for the 100th time
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100 series lift.
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
Re: 100 series lift.
The hungys have plenty of guard clearance and room for bigger tires with minimal lift. I have run up to 7" lift on mine with 38s. IT was too big to be enjoyable to drive at that height. BEst advice I can give is don't go over about 4" lift. You can still run 36s with that lift and minimal rubbing on front (plastic front mud guard needs trimming).. I currently run 36s and 4 " lift with no rubbing at all when flexed up. ALthough my front diff Is moved forward 60mm now so mud flap trimming isn't even in the equation.
castor plates are a good option for price but if have the money get super flex arms, I have seen these work well and are great as they are practically bolt on if that's what your after.
You don't need to touch the rear at all just add taller coils and shocks. I have never put rear arms in even with 7 coils and tail shaft vib was hardly noticeable. ALthough some cases may differ. JUst lift it to where you want and see if there is much vibration, if so then go out and get rear control arms that you can adjust.
castor plates are a good option for price but if have the money get super flex arms, I have seen these work well and are great as they are practically bolt on if that's what your after.
You don't need to touch the rear at all just add taller coils and shocks. I have never put rear arms in even with 7 coils and tail shaft vib was hardly noticeable. ALthough some cases may differ. JUst lift it to where you want and see if there is much vibration, if so then go out and get rear control arms that you can adjust.
Re: 100 series lift.
Camos wrote:The hungys have plenty of guard clearance and room for bigger tires with minimal lift. I have run up to 7" lift on mine with 38s. IT was too big to be enjoyable to drive at that height. BEst advice I can give is don't go over about 4" lift. You can still run 36s with that lift and minimal rubbing on front (plastic front mud guard needs trimming).. I currently run 36s and 4 " lift with no rubbing at all when flexed up. ALthough my front diff Is moved forward 60mm now so mud flap trimming isn't even in the equation.
castor plates are a good option for price but if have the money get super flex arms, I have seen these work well and are great as they are practically bolt on if that's what your after.
You don't need to touch the rear at all just add taller coils and shocks. I have never put rear arms in even with 7 coils and tail shaft vib was hardly noticeable. ALthough some cases may differ. JUst lift it to where you want and see if there is much vibration, if so then go out and get rear control arms that you can adjust.
cheers man
yeah it has 33s at the moment and they scrub a little but i think that is because they are wide
Re: 100 series lift.
is yours a 105series? solid axle front, not IFS?
I lifted my 105 2" and run 35x12.5" MTZs on 1" offset 16x8" rims.
it rubbed badly on the front guards, I couldnt get into my driveway without mods.
I relocated the front diff 18mm forward at the chassis mounts, trimmed the plastic inner guards and also had to hammer a seam on the body flat.
the 1" offset rims caused a lot of the rubbing issues, I still need to trim the guards a touch. The front left rubs on the washer bottle off road.
The rear was OK, I removed the factory mudflaps and the plastic caps on the side steps.
Even with 4" lift, I would still get rubbing offroad as the suspension articulates through full range of travel.
I lifted my 105 2" and run 35x12.5" MTZs on 1" offset 16x8" rims.
it rubbed badly on the front guards, I couldnt get into my driveway without mods.
I relocated the front diff 18mm forward at the chassis mounts, trimmed the plastic inner guards and also had to hammer a seam on the body flat.
the 1" offset rims caused a lot of the rubbing issues, I still need to trim the guards a touch. The front left rubs on the washer bottle off road.
The rear was OK, I removed the factory mudflaps and the plastic caps on the side steps.
Even with 4" lift, I would still get rubbing offroad as the suspension articulates through full range of travel.
RN wrote:pussy is out, its the log for me... Thank you Jesus.
Re: 100 series lift.
yeah it is a solid axel, after the surf i wouldn't settle for less80's_delirious wrote:is yours a 105series? solid axle front, not IFS?
I lifted my 105 2" and run 35x12.5" MTZs on 1" offset 16x8" rims.
it rubbed badly on the front guards, I couldnt get into my driveway without mods.
I relocated the front diff 18mm forward at the chassis mounts, trimmed the plastic inner guards and also had to hammer a seam on the body flat.
the 1" offset rims caused a lot of the rubbing issues, I still need to trim the guards a touch. The front left rubs on the washer bottle off road.
The rear was OK, I removed the factory mudflaps and the plastic caps on the side steps.
Even with 4" lift, I would still get rubbing offroad as the suspension articulates through full range of travel.
yeah i know i will get scrubbing but that is part of changing the car from factory
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