Weekender diff and spring mods

[V.W.Dave]

I have a 95 disco 300 tdi. Current mods are 2" lifted springs, rancho shocks, no sway bars (scary on corners) defender diffs & axils, custom exhaust 265/75-16 tyres, some do-dads inside and plenty of weekender scratches and missing plastic trims.

First question or should I say problem I am having is. Every time I take it bush the top of the rear springs come out of their cradle and end up rubbing on the tyre. Is this common? Can I weld a small peice of 5mm thick plate to extend the edge of the cup down further? If possible I would like to keep the top of the spring not captive.

Second question I have is about running a welded diff. Before anyone jumps up and down and tells me how bad it is to drive with a welded diff I have had one in the back of my hilux and Zook for over 5 years so I know how bad they drive on the road and I know all the bad tyre wear things. The question I have is more directed at the affect it will have on the transfercase. I have never had a transfer with a diff in it before. I have 2 spare diffs so my plan was to weld up one of them and take it with me on big trips. Swop it in once I am where I going drive it like I stole it in the bush then when I am done ( before driving home) swop back in the open diff. Would it be ok or a very bad idea? ( I am going to be putting patrol/80 diffs in it in a few months so I am not looking for long jevady out of the diffs.)

[GRIMACE]

I have a 95 disco 300 tdi. Current mods are 2" lifted springs, rancho shocks, no sway bars (scary on corners) defender diffs & axils, custom exhaust 265/75-16 tyres, some do-dads inside and plenty of weekender scratches and missing plastic trims.

First question or should I say problem I am having is. Every time I take it bush the top of the rear springs come out of their cradle and end up rubbing on the tyre. Is this common? Can I weld a small peice of 5mm thick plate to extend the edge of the cup down further? If possible I would like to keep the top of the spring not captive.

A trio of hose clamps work for me.

Second question I have is about running a welded diff. Before anyone jumps up and down and tells me how bad it is to drive with a welded diff I have had one in the back of my hilux and Zook for over 5 years so I know how bad they drive on the road and I know all the bad tyre wear things. The question I have is more directed at the affect it will have on the transfercase. I have never had a transfer with a diff in it before. I have 2 spare diffs so my plan was to weld up one of them and take it with me on big trips. Swop it in once I am where I going drive it like I stole it in the bush then when I am done ( before driving home) swop back in the open diff. Would it be ok or a very bad idea? ( I am going to be putting patrol/80 diffs in it in a few months so I am not looking for long jevady out of the diffs.)

That's a lot of repeating work for a locker, just drive it unlocked and enjoy the challenge or leave the Welded centre in it.
I would be concerned about the axle strength with a welded center thou. Can't see em lasting long at all

[V.W.Dave]

Can you show me a picture of this hose clamp idea?

[GRIMACE]

Can you show me a picture of this hose clamp idea?

It makes the top of the spring captive, so may not be what you are after.


It's booty fab, but it works for me. I generally leave a very tiny bit of slack in the hose clamps.
There are many dislocation cones out there, you could google them and make a copy if that is what you would prefer.

edit: p.s. carry spare hose clamps as I have had one fail on me before

[def90]

either what grimace said, but i have had more luck with big dog zippy ties as the my hose clamps havent liked the rotational forces on them causing them to split a corner then tear on me quicker then big zippy ties which are more flexible. or dislocation cones on the bottom and tie in the top, take the bottome base plate off where the coil seats and dogy fab up a triangle/cone/whatever to above the height you are dislocating to make it re-seat

[def90]

or u can do as suggested and wled some plate to extend the outer lip of the upper perch, make it flush though so it doesn't rub on yo tyres, prolly the easiest fix for theshort term

[V.W.Dave]

I love it you Rover boys are as dodgy as us zook guys hahahaha ZIP TIES to hold springs Screw clamp retainers hahahahah I love it.

[tehekho]

I love it you Rover boys are as dodgy as us zook guys hahahaha ZIP TIES to hold springs Screw clamp retainers hahahahah I love it.

It's not dodgy if it works!

[ISUZUROVER]

If you really want to run a welded diff, then I have a much easier option for you. Simply remove one axle/halfshaft when on the road and replace it with a plank drive flange (basically an axle with the axle chopped off).

It is only 5 bolts, you don't even need to drain the oil. (landie axles are fully floating)

A mate did this for a while as an interim measure until his lockers arrived.

[V.W.Dave]

If you really want to run a welded diff, then I have a much easier option for you. Simply remove one axle/halfshaft when on the road and replace it with a plank drive flange (basically an axle with the axle chopped off).

It is only 5 bolts, you don't even need to drain the oil. (landie axles are fully floating)

A mate did this for a while as an interim measure until his lockers arrived.

hmmm very good idea. I could put a short side in the long side as well. ( I have like 4 sets of axils.)

[ISUZUROVER]

If you really want to run a welded diff, then I have a much easier option for you. Simply remove one axle/halfshaft when on the road and replace it with a plank drive flange (basically an axle with the axle chopped off).

It is only 5 bolts, you don't even need to drain the oil. (landie axles are fully floating)

A mate did this for a while as an interim measure until his lockers arrived.

hmmm very good idea. I could put a short side in the long side as well. ( I have like 4 sets of axils.)

Good idea, but the force of the unsupported axle may eventually strip out the threads in the hub???

[TimRover]

To retain the springs we use exhaust clamps if you can get them in there, they don't break

[frantic]

Have a look at gwyn lewis or the terrafirma copy for a rear spring guide/hook. http://www.gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/page68.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
He actually raises the shock mounts so you can get the travel of around a 4in lift with ONLY a 2 in lift and better centre of gravity.
http://www.gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/page56a.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
The new ome shock are 60070L from memory they changed the codes, these are used for patrol 3+in lifted from OME/ARB