Worn trunion bearings?

[Rota]

Hi guys,

First of all i have searched and i cant find any info on this.

I bought a 2004 79 series coil front diff the other weekend and as i was pulling it apart i noticed the long side CV slid straight out without lining up the flats first.

Has anyone seen this before? Does it pose a problem at all?

Cheers for any help


**Edited to get back onto the original question**

[Shadow]

Hi guys,

First of all i have searched and i cant find any info on this.

I bought a 2004 79 series coil front diff the other weekend and as i was pulling it apart i noticed the long side CV slid straight out without lossening the trunion bearings first.

I have pulled apart a couple of diffs and usually the truning bearings needed to be fully undone and then the cv rotated to line up the flats and then removed.

Has anyone seen this before? i plan to put new bearings and seals through it anyway but im not sure if that will fix it?

The trunion bearing caps only had very thin shims in them too.

Cheers for any help

you do not need to touch the swivel hub bearings at all

Should just line up the flats on the CV top and bottom and it will slide out.

if you have to touch the swivel hub bearings to get the cv out, your either doing it wrong, or theres something wrong!

I have rebuilt a 60 series, 80 series, hilux(84?) and 45 series front ends and never had to undo the swivel bearings to get the cv out.

[Rota]

I should have also said that i didnt need to line up the flats to remove this cv either.

Any thoughts?

[dogbreath_48]

I should have also said that i didnt need to line up the flats to remove this cv either.

Any thoughts?

I'm not 100% familiar with the 79 swivel housings, but on an early 75 lining up the flats is only required to get the CV out of the swivel ball, not the swivel housing itself - worn bearings wouldn't make a difference. By trunion bearings, do you mean kingpin bearings?

[Rota]

yeah the kingpin bearings, the bearings above and below the actual CV.

Usually ive had to loosen the kingpin/ nuckle bearings off and then rotate the cv to the flat points to pull out the cv/axle.

But on this diff the whole cv/axle came out without loosening the bearings or rotating the cv to the right point.

[McLarryBob]

I don't see how loosening the kingpin bearings would make it any easier to get the CV out. It's not like they make the opening any bigger...

Maybe the CV is a cheap after market one made a tiny bit smaller to cut costs?

[Ashley_bmx]

I don't see how loosening the kingpin bearings would make it any easier to get the CV out. It's not like they make the opening any bigger...

Maybe the CV is a cheap after market one made a tiny bit smaller to cut costs?

You have to take the king pins out. The bearings are recessed into the top of the knuckle end. And the king pins locate and retain the bearings. You should not be able to take the cv out without removing the king pins. All i can think of is that it has sheered off the king pin ends.

[Shadow]

I don't see how loosening the kingpin bearings would make it any easier to get the CV out. It's not like they make the opening any bigger...

Maybe the CV is a cheap after market one made a tiny bit smaller to cut costs?

You have to take the king pins out. The bearings are recessed into the top of the knuckle end. And the king pins locate and retain the bearings. You should not be able to take the cv out without removing the king pins. All i can think of is that it has sheered off the king pin ends.

bullshit

[Rota]

I don't see how loosening the kingpin bearings would make it any easier to get the CV out. It's not like they make the opening any bigger...

Maybe the CV is a cheap after market one made a tiny bit smaller to cut costs?

You have to take the king pins out. The bearings are recessed into the top of the knuckle end. And the king pins locate and retain the bearings. You should not be able to take the cv out without removing the king pins. All i can think of is that it has sheered off the king pin ends.

bullshit

Taken from the "how to change a hilux CV" thread in the hilux bible:

Remove the bolts and the seals around the back of the swivel housing
take hub off and then remove the C clip that is on the end of the axle
take off the top steering arm off the swivel.
Lossen the bottom foru bolts on the swivel king pin.
Then simply remove the whole rotor/caliper,swivel housing in one piece. To do this you need to slightly lift and pull the top out wards, as it comes off over the top you need to go down wards with it so that the bottom king pin and bearing comes out of its hole/race.
Once you have this bit off just sit it to the side on top of the wheel, you don`t have to touch the wheel bearing or the brakes this way. Then you are left with the CV hanging out of the housing.

and


1. Remove tyre.
2. Remove 10mm bolts from locking hub.
3. Remove Circlip from the end of the birfield
4. Remove the 12mm Nuts and use a Brass drift and knock out the cone locks. (the rest of the free wheeling hub will come off)
5. Undo the two 17mm Bolts on the back of the Brake caliper and slide the caliper of the disk.
6. Using a 54mm socket ( or as i do a Big screw Driver and a hammer) remove the two locking nuts from the Stub axle. (Note, there is a flat washer that has little tabs that will be bent over onto the nuts, this stops them from working loose, you need to unfold the tab before you can undo the nuts)
7. Remove the whole hub (the front bearing is not retained, so don't let it drop in the dirt, the rear bearing is retained and will not fall out)
8. Undo the 14mm bolts that hold the Stub axle on (the disk brake cover will also fall away when you undo these bolts)
9.You will then see the Birfield (the birfield has two flats that are machined on them, these need to be rotated around until they are at the top and the bottom) when the two flats are lined up, the birfield with a bit of help will come straight out.
10. Replace the Busted or worn out Cv with a new or good secondhand one ( or if funds permits a Longfield). You only need to replace the CV the AXLE will still be ok. To remove the CV from the axle use a piece of pipe, slide the axle into the pipe and bang it on the ground. The cv will pop off, there is a sping clip that usually needs to be replaced when you remove the CV from the axle.
11. Instilation is the opposite. Just pack the CV with grease and put it all back together.



Theres a couple different ways of doing it that might be adding to the confusion.
I was pretty sure i had to undo the nuckle bearings first to pull out my CV but ive pulled my diffs apart to rebuild them so the nuckle bearings had to be undone ayway.
Sorry for the confusion

Anyway non of this is helping hahaha. I think ill just order a rebuild kit and give that a run and maybe check the diameter of the cvs and nuckles at the same time.

I was hoping the 79 series was a bit different in a way that would explain it.

[McLarryBob]

I don't see how loosening the kingpin bearings would make it any easier to get the CV out. It's not like they make the opening any bigger...

Maybe the CV is a cheap after market one made a tiny bit smaller to cut costs?

You have to take the king pins out. The bearings are recessed into the top of the knuckle end. And the king pins locate and retain the bearings. You should not be able to take the cv out without removing the king pins. All i can think of is that it has sheered off the king pin ends.

bullshit

Which bit?
Are you saying the king pin protrudes into the swivel housing area where the CV sits as well and prevents the CV from coming out? If this is what you're saying than I think you're wrong.


The kingpin shims keep the knuckle aligned to the diff housing (as well as bearing pre-load) and the spindle keeps the CV central to the knuckle. So hopefully your whole axle, CV, swivel hub and spindle are aligned - the flat sides of the CV are narrow enough to fit through the hole in the swivel hub so I don't see how loosening and removing the king pins is going to help getting the CV and axle out...

This is my experience with the 80 series diff which is very similar to the 79 series. I have not seen a diff where this is necessary but am happy to be shown one.

[dogbreath_48]

In the quotes you've posted, the first example does away with disassembling the hub/spindle and removes the entire housing, fully assembled.

[Rota]

In the quotes you've posted, the first example does away with disassembling the hub/spindle and removes the entire housing, fully assembled.

Hahaha yeah i just noticed that too.

I might have my shit mixed up here as when ive pulled apart my diffs its usually to rebuild them so all the nuckles and that needed to come apart anyway.

It does make sense that the nuckle bearings shouldnt effect the removal of the cv when the cv is rotated to the flats.


It looks like it wont be a problem anyway, if the spindle does all the allignment of the cv then the cv just sliding out once the spindle is undone wouldnt be an issue. Right?

[crankycruiser]

I call bullshit also. I've never seen a 79 / 80/105 housing that has needed the king pins loosened to remove the cv. Ur doing something wrong.
This is from personal experience too. not something i "read" on the internet......

[lshobie]

ill second the bullshit, check my video - that should clear it up

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NlcVwWAAHw8" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

or check my other vids for the tear down.

cheers!

[dogbreath_48]

It looks like it wont be a problem anyway, if the spindle does all the allignment of the cv then the cv just sliding out once the spindle is undone wouldnt be an issue. Right?

Right, except that the alignment of the CV/axleshaft within the inner axle seal is by the kingpin shims (which also set the swivel housing preload). The spindle does indeed support the CV, though. Most people, including at least some toyota dealers, just put the shims back in the way they came out (adding/removing even amounts top and bottom if preload needs to be increased or decreased). If you have inner axle seals which leak inseccently you may want to look at re-doing the shims and replacing the brass bush within the spindle (or yours might have needle rollers?). Theres a few ways of doing the alignment, heres one way:

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-Stu