HOT TD42

[Wozza244]

TD42 in 95 Coil Cab TD05 turbo with front mount intercooler, Air Con.

EGT's are fine nothing unusual.

Its getting hot on normal days around say 25 degrees when i load it up driving up hills or if i have gear on the back when its labouring a bit.
Its not using a drop of coolant, the coolant has been replaced 2000km ago.

Last 2 hot days here i have had to pull over every 15 min and let it cool down a bit, i even splashed water in through the grill to help today in 41 degrees to help get it off cooking.

I have to drive under 100 with no air con on or it will heat all the way to the top of the standard gauge.

The only thing i can think to start with is piss the intercooler off the front.

Any ideas?

[blackmav]

So you have the cooler then AC then radiator?
On my last Patrol ute the Ac got relocated to under the tray with a thermo.
Some pics here, now my brothers ute.
http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/members- ... ndex2.html
The IC will only drop the temps, mine was the same set up as yours and doing the same thing. But before the IC went on the egts were worse, so the fact the air was being heated before the rad it was a benifit.

Moving the Ac condensor definatly helped.

Viscus fan?

My current ute is doning the same as well but is not Intercooled and has the Ac in the factory position.
I am just about to put new fluid in the fan when it cools down somemore(Edit, done. ALot more silicon stuff went back in than came out, so fingers crossed.)

[Wozza244]

So you have the cooler then AC then radiator?
My current ute is doning the same as well but is not Intercooled and has the Ac in the factory position.
I am just about to put new fluid in the fan when it cools down somemore(Edit, done. ALot more silicon stuff went back in than came out, so fingers crossed.)

Yes IC, condenser, rad. The air con going definately makes it heat quicker, but it will still do it if its off also.

I dont know anything about these Viscous fans, where do i buy the fluid from?

Should i hear it "kick in" or anything like that?
Cheers mate

[blackmav]

Next time it gets hot, pull over, switch it off and see how much resistance there is when turning your fan by hand.
If theres little or none it needs a rebuild, mine took about 25 mins this arvo.

http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/diy-modi ... eco-55192/

[84mksd33t]

I really think a sticky is in order with a list of things to try/reasons TD42T's get hot.
I really, really think one is needed.

[MEGATROL]

take your raator out and take it into a radiator place and ask them to remove both tanks and clean the inside of the core and solder the tanks back on. should cost about $120.

i did this to mine and it runs like a dream now and also like its been said go onto ebay and get a new viscous fan hub. i wouldnt bother rebuilding it as they are pretty cheap to replace compaired to a cracked head or rebuilt motor

MEGATROL

[Jake GQ..]

i had overheating isues with my tb42 and the viscus cluch fan was stuffed so i put a new one on and about three months later did a head gasket. thought i should take it to a mechanic, and he told me the cluck fan was stuffed. as the story goes (apparently) it is much better to put more fluid in them by taping a hole in them and then pluging it so we did it to my old genuine one and it went fine for about 12 months, 'just sold the engine recently to do a diesel conversion'. just something to think about. good luck

[BIG BETTSY]

ive had this problem as well if you have a body lift it will also make it run warmer as the fan is now not in the center of the radiator shroud and wont be working efficiently also you buy the oil from toyota as they to have this problem it will be about 10.50 a tube best off buying 2 of them unbolt the fan then the 4 bolts holding the clutch together pour oil in bolt back together the only problem you then have is this locks the fan up and you may get a weird fan noise from the engine bay

[Wozza244]

Ok had to dig this thread back up. Over winter i havent had a problem, till now. I went away on a trip all loaded up with camping gear, quad bike etc out western NSW and the daytime temps were only about 25, but driving at the posted speed limit of 110km/h it was getting right up about to touch the red, so i backed it off to 100 and it was off the red but still hot.

Since i posted this thread i have got a brand new fan, viscous fan hub, thermostat, rad cap and a brand new radiator. The rad is only standard, as my old plastic tanked one broke and i needed an overnight replacement, which we could only source the 2 core, its small anyway with copper tanks. At the time i needed my ute to get to work and this was the only option i was left with, as the big 5 core im sure it was going to be a week wait on it.

The new gear did help, but marginally and now we have been getting high 20 degree temps the old rig is heating back up. If its doing this already, its going to cook again in summer.

The next option is to replace the water pump and maybe an alloy radiator from PWR or ADC? But i dont want to spend $1000 on an alloy job and find im still getting hot.

Please someone shed some light here because summer is knocking at the door and its looking bleak as far as trips away are concerned, i cant even make it to my local swimming hole during summer 20 min away without driving under 70km/h and stopping atleast once and squirting water through the radiator!!!

[tehekho]

Ok had to dig this thread back up. Over winter i havent had a problem, till now. I went away on a trip all loaded up with camping gear, quad bike etc out western NSW and the daytime temps were only about 25, but driving at the posted speed limit of 110km/h it was getting right up about to touch the red, so i backed it off to 100 and it was off the red but still hot.

Since i posted this thread i have got a brand new fan, viscous fan hub, thermostat, rad cap and a brand new radiator. The rad is only standard, as my old plastic tanked one broke and i needed an overnight replacement, which we could only source the 2 core, its small anyway with copper tanks. At the time i needed my ute to get to work and this was the only option i was left with, as the big 5 core im sure it was going to be a week wait on it.

The new gear did help, but marginally and now we have been getting high 20 degree temps the old rig is heating back up. If its doing this already, its going to cook again in summer.

The next option is to replace the water pump and maybe an alloy radiator from PWR or ADC? But i dont want to spend $1000 on an alloy job and find im still getting hot.

Please someone shed some light here because summer is knocking at the door and its looking bleak as far as trips away are concerned, i cant even make it to my local swimming hole during summer 20 min away without driving under 70km/h and stopping atleast once and squirting water through the radiator!!!

Find a big cheap china radiator on ebay! Will set you back maybe $200 at the most (Mine for the charade was $79) and they're not bad in quality (Well mine is fine!)

[GUtripper]

Ok had to dig this thread back up. Over winter i havent had a problem, till now. I went away on a trip all loaded up with camping gear, quad bike etc out western NSW and the daytime temps were only about 25, but driving at the posted speed limit of 110km/h it was getting right up about to touch the red, so i backed it off to 100 and it was off the red but still hot.

Since i posted this thread i have got a brand new fan, viscous fan hub, thermostat, rad cap and a brand new radiator. The rad is only standard, as my old plastic tanked one broke and i needed an overnight replacement, which we could only source the 2 core, its small anyway with copper tanks. At the time i needed my ute to get to work and this was the only option i was left with, as the big 5 core im sure it was going to be a week wait on it.

The new gear did help, but marginally and now we have been getting high 20 degree temps the old rig is heating back up. If its doing this already, its going to cook again in summer.

The next option is to replace the water pump and maybe an alloy radiator from PWR or ADC? But i dont want to spend $1000 on an alloy job and find im still getting hot.

Please someone shed some light here because summer is knocking at the door and its looking bleak as far as trips away are concerned, i cant even make it to my local swimming hole during summer 20 min away without driving under 70km/h and stopping atleast once and squirting water through the radiator!!!

Wozza there was a thread about modding a 4.2 thermostat to improve cooling efficiency on the Patrol forum, I'll see if I can find it and paste it on here. Apparently makes a difference.

Edit:
look here:

Mods the thermostat to reduce the amount of coolant that bypasses the radiator.

http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/nissan-p ... d42-62472/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Let me know if you cant read it, and I'll post the entire thread.
Hope it helps, Cheers

[5inchgq]

Could it be an air flow problem ?? What type of bar is on the front ? Lights ? Winch ? All these things will hinder air flow through the radiator and contribute to heat problems.

[toughnut]

I was having the same problem with my old standard setup on my GU ute as well. But the problem went away when I put the bigger exhaust on and wound up the boost and fuel. The truck just seemed to run much nicer. I alos put an oil cooler on it and that helped a bit as well. I mounted the oil cooler where the intercooler would normally go under the bonet scoop.

But for me the single biggest improvement was running a second radiator on the tray. It doesn't need to be a big one. Just having the extra volume of water along with the little extra cooling went a long way to keeping temps down. Might not be the most practical thing for you though mate.

First thing that I'd try is a complete flush and a new water pump. If it wasn't doing it before and you haven't really changed too much but you've replaced all the other stuff then I'd be looking at the water pump first.

[Wozza244]

Thanks for that GUTripper, i ordered a high flow thermostat today.

I tried getting rid of the spotties to increase airflow but it didnt help at all, not one shred of difference.

The water pump seems to be flowing well with thermostat out, but i may to replace it anyway.

I suppose its a given that a 2 core radiator wont keep a 4.2 TD cool. Im not sure whether to buy an alloy job or the nissan 3 core? Money isnt a problem, but i dont want to spend over a grand on a PWR or ADC alloy radiator if i dont need to.

[Wozza244]

Just installed the new high flow thermostat. Heading away this weekend i will test it out then on a long haul.

[Hendo79]

Hey mate
I'm not sure if someone has already said it or not but fit an aftermarket temp gauge to verify exactly how hot it gets . Mine will run up to 3/4 on the gauge in summer with the air on I used to get worried but it just sits there and won't go any further so I haven't bothered .
P/S
Don't buy a cheap chinese radiator there crap I've had one and the ute ran hotter with it and then it started leaking from the crap welding and poor quality ally they use

Cheers
Hendo

[Wozza244]

Hey mate
I'm not sure if someone has already said it or not but fit an aftermarket temp gauge to verify exactly how hot it gets . Mine will run up to 3/4 on the gauge in summer with the air on I used to get worried but it just sits there and won't go any further so I haven't bothered .
P/S
Don't buy a cheap chinese radiator there crap I've had one and the ute ran hotter with it and then it started leaking from the crap welding and poor quality ally they use

Cheers
Hendo

This was my next question, i bought a universal temp gauge VDO or something but the sensor wont fit in any of the holes on my thermostat housing or anywhere! What breed gauge have others used?
EDIT: The threaded fitting fits, but the sensor is too long to go in the given space.

[Wozza244]

Would this be an example of cheap chinese crap??? Or would it be worth a shot. Comes with 12 month warranty against manufacture defects.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-CORE-alumi ... 43a90eba59" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[cliff]

OK firstly mine is not a TD its a TBe, and I had overheating problems and did everything I could think of, including thermostats, fluid changes, changed out the engine fan for twin EL Falcon fans, chocked up the back of the bonnet with 5mm washers, replaced all the hoses, and installed the largest PWR autotrans cooler you can get and it still overheated climbing hills, to the point I had to stop 3 times from Kilcoy to the fire lookout on the way to LCMP. I took it down to my local radiator bloke and he was going to dual flow it after taking the tanks of and flushing them and the entire system, $400 buck it would have cost me. He asked if I had used a genuine thermostat, answer = NO, I thought they would be to expensive. I went and bought one for under $35 and it fixed the problem. So I went back to the the radiator guy and thanked him and bought him a slab of beer. Still cheaper than the other option. I also bought a radiator cap just to be on the safe side and an aftermarket temp guage.

[Signature]

Mine currently runs two small thermo fans at the front and doesn't get hot. I'll be changing that setup out for the falcon twin thermo and shroud for personal preference though. In my experience, if you're getting hot there's a pretty basic procedure that works most of the time. It's also good preventative maintenance to keep the cooling system in check.

First and easiest - hoses. Split? cracked? worn? yes? Replace hose. I would do them all at once as if on'es old enough to fatigue the others arent far off it.

is your waterpump belt and pulley in good nick? belt tensioned and not slipping? replace belt if so. Is there any weeping from the water pump shaft? if so - replace water pump and refit - then do a descale.

Run car hot, check for holes in radiator. A pinhole may not leak until the system is pressurized. Got a Holy rad? take to radiator shop to repair/replace. I'd descale/clean the cooling system when that new radiator goes on too.

Check fans - if viscous, check that it's not worn out and if it's shrouded make sure the shroud is intact. Some vehicles rely heavily on the shroud to direct air, if it's belted, check belts and pulleys.


Thermo - start the car from cold and run it up to temp. Helps to have an aftermarket gauge to ensure you're accurate. I know for a fact that some factory gauges that whilst show a range, really only have two settings. Engine running and engine blown. If it doesn't kick in, check the wiring and earth points. If it still doesn't kick in, hardwire the fan to make sure it isn't dead. Still no good? Grab your multimeter and check that sensor from cold to hot. You can do this on car or jigger up a pot of water on the stove with a thermometer, battery and test lamp.

Most people on here have a fair bit of mechanical aptitude and know how to flush a cooling system, for those that don't, read on.
Drain coolant - Remove radiator cap from cold engine. If there's no tap on your radiator, pull the bottom hose off and allow to drain. when empty, replace hose/shut tap. Buy a descaling agent/radiator cleaner. Put it in the radiator, if it's a concentrate, use demineralised water. Follow instructions. Some say to run the car for a few minutes, some say a few hours. Considering you're driving the car for no other reason other than to get it warm, drive it to your local parts shop. Ask them for a thermostat and gasket to suit your engine, some high quality coolant, not the fluro water that's 3.99, pay for it (that last part is important, don't forget it) Go with a reputable brand of thermostat, or genuine if you can.
Allow engine to cool. Remove radiator cap and following the draining procedure or any other specific instructions on the scaling agent you've used. Close tap/replace hose. Remove the thermostat housing and replace the thermostat. Fill radiator with coolant, start engine and keep pouring coolant in till she can take no more.

This procedure hasn't let me down, I'm no mechanic though, but it's solved any cooling issue I've had to face.

Another issue is the quality of the coolant used. I've sat through my fair share of product training (I work for cummins, and we have a filtration division called fleetguard who also makes coolant) But i'm not here to sell shit so I'll leave the brands out of it.
I use a propelene glycol based coolant which whilst it works well, is a pretty damn slippery fluid, and if you've got anything seated poorly or a slightly perished O ring somewhere, it's gonna find it and leak. I think this is a good thing as it will let you know early before something gives way. A new product is being brought out which is pretty much the same thing, but is nitrite, amine and phosphate free. I'm going to give that a go when I clean my TD's system and whack the new thermos on it.

Also, unless I'm in a bind, I don't top up with water. If it's an emergency and water is all I have, I will drain it and replace with fresh coolant when I can.

You can get quite technical with coolant on trucks, start talking about DCA, doing test strips etc, but for 4wd's that's largely unnecessary.

[Signature]

I forgot radiator cap. Keep a spare - make sure it's releasing pressure at the right point. Your radiator shop can test your cap/supply a spare.

[Wozza244]

Great bit of information there, thanks!

I now have a couple of grand saved up ready to spend on cooling system.
I still have a few unanswered questions, in my above posts, what aftermarket temp gauge have you guys been using as i cant seem to find one that fits!
That radiator on ebay i linked there, would it be worth trying or should i go with an Aussie Desert Coolers or PWR Alloy Radiator?

I really want to try and get this ordered/organised this week so it turns up on my mon tues off, ready to fit.

[Signature]

I've always used an autometer or VDO gauge and their supplied fitting, blocked off the standard one and tapped a thread in to the thermostat housing. You can get little in line adapters that are like a piece of pipe with a hexagonal block, cut an inch out of your top hose and fit it. They can come with a switch, but there's no reason you couldn't tap another one in there, one for the thermo switch and another for temp sensor.

[Signature]

You could even just use a piece of thick wall steel pipe and bevel the edges so it doesn't restrict flow too much and tap the threads in that.

[Wozza244]

Did some buggerising around today, found a sender that fits and the gauge should turn up in the morning, its an electronic one. Im hoping it tells me a good story.

[kane077]

TD 42 run a bypass thermostat system. So when the thermostat opens it blocks off a bypass port in the thermostat housing. I have seen this area corrode out resulting in coolant not being forced thru radiator. 4.2 efi viscous hub and fan are a better design and larger viscous than TD42 and will bolt straight on. Also worth checking for pressurized cooling system due to leaking head gasket. My patrol had same issues when i bought it. I bought a quality radiator, water pump, genuine thermostat and the efi viscous etc and the problem is solved. Still coping well with ballbearing turbo, 20psi and larger injector pump. So to finish its either a flow issue or cooking from the inside out due to head gasket problem.

[purplebus]

Would this be an example of cheap chinese crap??? Or would it be worth a shot. Comes with 12 month warranty against manufacture defects.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-CORE-alumi ... 43a90eba59" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

we sell parts and were selling a very similiar rad to those. the first batch were perfect with no dramas. had them in mates worked 5.7 lt comp truck. the second batch i have refunded every one there coin back as they all leaked after a few months. not worth the drama if you ask me. it wont fail in your street. the suppliers have stopped selling theirs. some of the cheap rads necks are incorrect so they dont let the pressure out into the overflow bottle.
i bought apprently a triple flowed 3 core rad from aussie desert coolers for my td42t and was told " it will fix it gauranteed ". bullshit..!! no different to a standard rad. the cheap jap alloy one was better. rang them and a different guy goes we dont do a 3 core rad, it is just a big 2 core that is about the same width as a 3 core...wtf. damn thing wasnt even triple bypassed after we cut the tanks off to change it to a petty 1. rang them and naaaa ooohh well send it back and we will do it. fuk that send it from qld and hope it gets back from melb in 1 piece... cooling tubes were expanded and the motor had no problems at all. biggest waste of $800 IIRC ever.

most of my mates have pwr rads and have only had 1 drama with a core and they just sent him a new one straight away and he sent the leaking one back when the new 1 arrived. great service.
currently running a gu aftermarket alloy/plastic 4.5 lt rad and pwr fans in a custom shroud and it cools my BB chev so far. hasnt been tested towing up the beach etc but we will see.

[Dirty]

Have had this problem on last 2 trucks, and fixed it on the current after wasting a ton of $$$ on PWR radiators, water pumps, thermostats and all the crap that has been posted here.

The problem with the TD42 is the hand primer on the filter is shit and the diaphragm after not much time allows air to pass though it. The TD42 pump uses the incoming fuel to advance its timing and as the demand for fuel goes up more air gets sucked in through the diaphragm and this air doesn't allow the pump to advance correctly.

The solution is to piss the factory filter off and get a CAV unit on there and all your overheating problems will go away.

Good luck with it.

- David.

[thehanko]

I also wondered if timing might be a problem?

Not the first time I've heard about the filter causing a problem. Though when i heard it it was suggesting that a blocked filter could effect it.

Be curious if anyone else has had this effect heat?

As for chinese rads - I wont touch another one - was a hunk of shite! had 11 fins per inch instead of 15 as advertised and was significantly worse than the origional unit which was about 2 decades old - could barely drive my truck (was in a hilux).

turfed it and got my origional rad re cored with an extra core and never moved a mm on the temp guage above normal ever again.

Apparently generic rads in aus are all imported and mainly made in china / thailand, but all recores use aussie made cores.

Is getting your current rad rebuilt with the biggest baddest core you can get an option?

Have heard so many bad stories about desert cooler. Have heard a mixed bag about pwr as well though. I would be hesitant to spend so much money on one until last choice.

[Wozza244]

Thats interesting about the filter diaphragm. I will certainly give that a go, and going to a decent filter with a 2 or 4 micron filter definitely is a good idea even if it doesnt solve the heating issues.

As for the chinese radiator, i bought it last week, because of the feedback i got for ADC and PWR radiators not actually fixing the problem, i thought i would rather spend 300 than 1100 to find its not the problem. The idiots that sold it to me havent even sent it, i just got a message saying they didnt check their account, so here i have been waiting a week for it to arrive but they hadnt even sent it. Unreal.