Need help finding some diff replacement tech.

[V.W.Dave]

I have spent some time looking through the net to find as much info as I can about replacing the diffs under a Disco1 with the Patrol front and 80 rear. I keep finding people talking about it but no real tech or Pictures.
I signed up and spend about 45 mins searching and looking through ALRO but I have to say that is by far the most confusing hard to navigate forum I have ever been on. Any way I couldn't find anything other then people saying they have done it and how the 80 rear is best for the offset. But ones again no real write up on how people have done it.
Searching on outers I have found some but not a lot.

If any of you know of a thread on here or any other site please let me know or if you have some info.

I am wanting to do this conversion as I have all the bits to do it and I want the gearing/width and stronger diffs. I know I will be loosing clearance.

I have the diffs and a chassis sitting in my shed so i wanted to make it all on that chassis then simply put it all on my disco or one that I get in the near future.

Thanks in advance

[6.5 rangie]

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tuto ... atrol+diff" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. thats all i found in the 10 seconds i could be bothered searching. Pretty sure there threads on this in here and Aulro

[V.W.Dave]

Hajj I found that one and it dose have some good stuff but it's like every other one I found in that it goes from I am going to put the diff in too it's in here is the picture of it already in.

[cloughy]

Most people can't be assed doing a full on step by step

Its easy, just grab the diff's, the mig and make a start, all the information is in those threads, if you really need the step by step, maybe the job is a little much

[440 BB]

front is mostly bolt in.
take the rover control arms/diff/steering rod off.
bolt the patrol trailing arms diff and patrol springs in, drill the patrol spring perch to take a shocky, make a panhard and steering rod to suit (have heard the d2 steering rod is correct but cant confirm that) the rover panhard rod fits snugly into the patrol one. buy the correct conversion uni joint/conversion flange. i think the control arms may need to be spaced out slightly to get enough clearance on the shaft.

[V.W.Dave]

Most people can't be assed doing a full on step by step

Its easy, just grab the diff's, the mig and make a start, all the information is in those threads, if you really need the step by step, maybe the job is a little much

I shouldn't have any problems at all in doing it. I am just one of those people that likes to read and or see it a few times to see what or how other people have gone wrong and or done something a little different that made it better. I just want to make sure I don't loose any flex.
One of the things I was hoping to find was If any one had changed the front end completely into a a frame or 4 link set up. Or has that wheel already been invented and failed?
Are people just using the stock patrol control arms or are they using the 5* bushings or are they using the longtravel ones? If anyone did how did it turn out?
Has anyone moved the contr arms onto the top of the diff for better clearance?
Is the patrol rear diff a total no go because of it's offset?
Is every one just cutting off the mounts off the rear disco diff and welding them in the exact same place of have people played with the angles and found something better.

These are the reasons I want to see as many threads as possible before I start cutting things up.

I am sorry for not clearly asking for exactly what I was after.

[PacMan]

Hi Dave

You will loose flex in the front because the bolts on the Nissan radius arms are to far apart.
But just put a x-link on the diff and you will have more flex than a Rover ever had.
A superflex arm will do the job too but i think a x-link with lockout pin is just heaps better.
I moved the diff 15mm to the front with washers on the end of the radius arms to get more clearance.

You can't move the radius arms to the top - just have a look - there is no space.

The missing offset of the Nissan rear diff is not the only problem.
The a-frame mount will end up very high - maybe that will lift your car in the back at acceleration.

And yes, just cut the brackets off your Rover diffs and weld them back on. On the front diff, you have to build two brackets for the bump stop.
My rear diff is pointing more upwards than the Rover one because i use a double cardan drive shaft out of 60 series.

For the steering you can use the swan neck style ball joint from a Defender/Range Rover and the steering rod of a Discovery.
This parts have the right length together and fit in the Nissan diff.

The only matching ratio is 4.11. Nissan have it in the GQ/GU for the front and Toyota has 4.11 in Land Cruisers up to 1988.
After 1988 they changed to 4.1.
You should get an old style rear diff out of a LC 80 series up to ~1992.
They have a smaller breaks for 15" rims and the diff centre out of a LC up to 1988 just bolts in.

Or put a Nissan centre in the Toyota diff.
I want to do that one day - a Nissan high pinion front diff in the 80 series rear housing.

Hope that helps a bit.

Chris

[defmec]

with the cost of nissan upgraded axels and cv,s costing $2000 as well as hubs . wouldn't it be a better approach to go with the rovertracks 30 spline toyo conversion . then you would have a higher clearance and stronger cv,s and axles with less fab for the transport department to pick on

[V.W.Dave]

Hi Dave

You will loose flex in the front because the bolts on the Nissan radius arms are to far apart.
But just put a x-link on the diff and you will have more flex than a Rover ever had.
A superflex arm will do the job too but i think a x-link with lockout pin is just heaps better.
I moved the diff 15mm to the front with washers on the end of the radius arms to get more clearance.

You can't move the radius arms to the top - just have a look - there is no space.

The missing offset of the Nissan rear diff is not the only problem.
The a-frame mount will end up very high - maybe that will lift your car in the back at acceleration.
And yes, just cut the brackets off your Rover diffs and weld them back on. On the front diff, you have to build two brackets for the bump stop.
My rear diff is pointing more upwards than the Rover one because i use a double cardan drive shaft out of 60 series.
For the steering you can use the swan neck style ball joint from a Defender/Range Rover and the steering rod of a Discovery.
This parts have the right length together and fit in the Nissan diff.
The only matching ratio is 4.11. Nissan have it in the GQ/GU for the front and Toyota has 4.11 in Land Cruisers up to 1988.
After 1988 they changed to 4.1.
You should get an old style rear diff out of a LC 80 series up to ~1992.
They have a smaller breaks for 15" rims and the diff centre out of a LC up to 1988 just bolts in.
Or put a Nissan centre in the Toyota diff.
I want to do that one day - a Nissan high pinion front diff in the 80 series rear housing.
Hope that helps a bit.
Chris

Thanks mate yes that dose help out. Do you have any pictures of the X-Link set up with or without the pin?
I have a bunch of 60 cruiser diffs here all with 4.11 diffs and patrol diffs with the 4.11s so that part is more then covered.
Have you had any problems with the double cardan in the rear? Is yours a daily driver?

with the cost of nissan upgraded axels and cv,s costing $2000 as well as hubs . wouldn't it be a better approach to go with the rovertracks 30 spline toyo conversion . then you would have a higher clearance and stronger cv,s and axles with less fab for the transport department to pick on

I am not after a huge upgrade in strength I am more after the gearing. I am only looking to run 33s at the most 35s. This is not going to be a big time off roader but it will be capable enough to keep up with a patrol or 80 with the same size tires. the other reason I am looking into this is I have the a few patrol diffs here and already have four 4.11 cruiser diff centers here all I need is a housing and axils. I also have a disco chassis and 2 front/3 rear disco diffs to cut up and use for mock up.

From the little I have read into the Hilux center into the rover diffs It will cost $1700 before shipping for the front and $500 for the rear. Then I have to go get diff centers to add to that.

One of the other reasons I want to go to the other diffs is the 6 stud wheel pattern as I want to to some big outback tracks with mates and its better to all have the same bolt pattern for the group.

[V.W.Dave]

I know what a X-link is and I have messed around with them but how did you attach the setup made for the patrol to the chassis of the Landy?

I also have a few sets of 60 diffs sitting here. I have been reading a lot of people have used them in the past. They are about 2" narrower but if I want in the future they are easlity and cheaper to upgraded. (not a priority right now) As I have said I am really after the 4.11 gears and the 6 stud diffs.
Using the 60 diffs do people use the arms and mounts off the landy front diff for the 60s?

[discothrasher]

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tuto ... atrol+diff. thats all i found in the 10 seconds i could be bothered searching. Pretty sure there threads on this in here and Aulro

i have the 80 series , gq diff replacement in my rangie ,go with the above picturial it is very easy and basic swap be done on a saturday arvo easily

also leave the 80 series hand break sytem there and get rid of the stupid land rover one at least if you break a diff or axel gearbox/transfer case you can hold yourself on a side of a hill

[GRIMACE]

IMHO the Nissan arms even with an xlink will only flex to about the same of the standard rover setup.
If your just chasing gearing then i'd look at simply replacing the CWP with a readily available 4.11 from Ashcroft transmissions.
Or go one step better and do the entire toy conversion.
Nissan diffs are huge, your going to get hung up on the simplest of things and wish you had 3" bigger tyres.

[zuffen]

I have Patrol diffs front and back (I run a Patrol transfer) but use all Rover arms both back and front.

Works well and wasn't hard to do..

[PacMan]

Thanks mate yes that dose help out. Do you have any pictures of the X-Link set up with or without the pin?
I have a bunch of 60 cruiser diffs here all with 4.11 diffs and patrol diffs with the 4.11s so that part is more then covered.
Have you had any problems with the double cardan in the rear? Is yours a daily driver?

Hi Dave,

I am just on the way to put the x-link in.
And my rear double cardan is not in too because i just finished my dual transfer case and have to put the drive shaft in now.
It is a weekend car most the time.

I have Patrol diffs front and back (I run a Patrol transfer) but use all Rover arms both back and front.

Works well and wasn't hard to do..

Hello Zuffen

How did you got the radius arms over the diff?
I tried it but it looked like the diff housing is just to big.
Especially on the driver side.

Thanks
Chris

[PacMan]

IMHO the Nissan arms even with an xlink will only flex to about the same of the standard rover setup...

Hi Grimace

Did you checked that out?
I seen Patrols with a xlink and they flexed very well with the right springs in the rear.

Chris

[zuffen]

Chris,

I use 6degree arms from the UK and they are mounted under the diff.

I used the rear mounting hole on the Patrol bracket and made an extension for the front bolt.

The drivers arm is at a slightly steeper angle due to the diff being larger that side but it all works nicley, flexes like a Rangie and is bulletproof (well compared to RR gear).

[Ice]

Rod... i think your loud pedal is more than any rangie wet dream has every dreamed about


actually id guess that the wet spot on the ground around most rovers is due to the lound pedal in yours

ok ill go back to the yota tech now but for on topic yota or nissan diffs are do able...

[mick&shon]

mate i have a gq and 80s diff out rangie ill sell you or you take the whole thing cheers

[PacMan]

Chris,

I use 6degree arms from the UK and they are mounted under the diff.

I used the rear mounting hole on the Patrol bracket and made an extension for the front bolt.

The drivers arm is at a slightly steeper angle due to the diff being larger that side but it all works nicley, flexes like a Rangie and is bulletproof (well compared to RR gear).

Thanks for all your info Zuffen!!!
I very much appreciated that.

Chris

[440 BB]

could you throw up some quick pics zuffen, sounds easy enough for good reward

[GRIMACE]

IMHO the Nissan arms even with an xlink will only flex to about the same of the standard rover setup...

Hi Grimace

Did you checked that out?
I seen Patrols with a xlink and they flexed very well with the right springs in the rear.

Chris

Yeah I guess it was a bit harsh. I basically meant that for the cost and the added hassles the very minor gain (if any) over a well set up rover radius arm simply isn't worth it IMHO.
Given strength is not Dave main concern, I honestly believe he can make do with what he has got.

Add a couple of zip ties and some hose clamps and maybe some tie wire and it will be perfect!!!

Chris,

I use 6degree arms from the UK and they are mounted under the diff.

I used the rear mounting hole on the Patrol bracket and made an extension for the front bolt.

The drivers arm is at a slightly steeper angle due to the diff being larger that side but it all works nicely, flexes like a Rangie and is bulletproof (well compared to RR gear).

Just out of curiousity, are these arms by QT?

[zuffen]

Yeah, QT 6degree arms.

The car is in storage at my FIL's (ran out of room at home!) and I'll try and get some photos in the next week and post em up.

[440 BB]

how much lift are you running mate, although the arms would hang down a bit, is there any reason you couldnt use the standard arms and correct caster withe the mounting

[zuffen]

I had the QT arms as I purchased them before I decided to swap diffs.

No reason why you couldn't use the standard arms and sort the castor and pinion angle out during fabrication.

I run around 4"of lift but in all honesty I've never measured it.

I run 220lb 17"King springs each end and the car weighs 1950kg, so tht may give you some idea.

[440 BB]

thanks mate

[V.W.Dave]

Yeah, QT 6degree arms.

The car is in storage at my FIL's (ran out of room at home!) and I'll try and get some photos in the next week and post em up.

Hey mate did you end up taking any pictures???

[V.W.Dave]

Yeah, QT 6degree arms.

The car is in storage at my FIL's (ran out of room at home!) and I'll try and get some photos in the next week and post em up.

Hey mate did you end up taking any pictures???

[zuffen]

Not yet. I haven't seen the car in 3 months!

I'm planning on getting it out next weekend so my 16 year old on his "L" cna drive before he gets his licence.

He can't drive it after he's on "P's" as its supercharged so I'll try and get some photos then and post them up.

[440 BB]

whats everyone using for brake lines? are you just using one of the standard rover lines to both patrol front calipers or one rover to each partol caliper?

[V.W.Dave]

whats everyone using for brake lines? are you just using one of the standard rover lines to both patrol front calipers or one rover to each partol caliper?

From what i have found/read on here and a few other sights people have done it both ways but more commonly they use the Rover set up with a line running to each side.

Its kind of strange that you bumped this thread i was about to.

I have been working in a Offroad workshop for the last few months and have put drop box's on a few Patrols over the last few weeks and was just wondering if anyone has made a set of these for a Disco front end?

Also looking at the rear end. With a 4" lift on 80 rear end it will almost be at the limits of flex on the factory A-arm. If I was to keep the same separation and north/south axis but move the mount up on the diff would this help? (Was that as clear as mud?)