!help! GU 06 3.0L engine shake diesel

[paultrol]

Hi Guys,

When I bought this car about 2 weeks ago, I notice the engine shaking at idle and every now and then I can hear like a small knocking or clanking sound near the alternator side. Once I start driving normally changing through gears it goes fine, it's only when it's idling. The idle sits around 400-500 rpm. I change the fuel filter and started adding some fuel additives such as Moreys fuel conditioner, I've also bought chemtech as well but I haven't used it. It did feel like the engine shake was going away but now its back. When I put the choke on to put the rev's up. the engine shake goes away? and the small knocking sound goes away too?

I know I shouldn't of bought the car in the state that it was. but I didn't think it was going to get any worse. i still love my new car and I intend to fix this issue.
I've checked this forum for about 2 weeks now and I couldn't get the right information I was looking for.

I'm leading towards maybe one of the injectors are dirty or going weak.
or maybe the timing is off I don't know.

any info will be greatly appreciated.



cheers,
Paul

[old lux]

Your engine is unbalanced. Sounds wierd I know. The knock you hear is more then likely injector knock. 1st place I'd look is getting the injectors done. If it was ok'd I would tell you crack the line. But being new and common rail it's not safe. Take it to a fuel Injection room and get them To look at it. Should fix your prob.

Could also be timing but because it hasn't been done it shouldn't of changed.

[christo400]

Hi paul i assume its a common rail model ? as stated above it sounds like you have a crook injector but it is possible to that it has low compression on that cylinder (i hope not for your sake )if it has sucked up some water and slightly bent a con rod its possible. there isnt much you can do yourself.if you are confident you could pull off the wiring connector to each injector one at a time with engine running to see wich one it is but this will log a fault code and bring on the ecu light. good luck

[RD]

Seen 1 doin this befor and it was th duel mass flywheel failing !

[bearbear]

your idle is to low that is all..

[GaryP]

I agree with the idle being too low. When you rev it at what revs does it stop knocking and seem to run alright.?

[christo400]

your idle is to low that is all..

hi bearbear Is the idle speed adjustable on a common rail zd30 crdi ? if so how do you increase the idle speed ?

[bearbear]

not real sure

[sswaffie]

As RD Meantioned the dual mass flywheel can give these symptons
rough idle and as soon as you give it a blip on the throttle it stops shaking
returns to idle and then starts shaking like a mo-foe, you can also hear the
clutch/flywheel rattle upon start up which is a good sign.

Is there engine light on ?

i know the older non common rail zd30's had a dashpot adjustment on the
ECU to adjust the idle , not sure on the cr model though

[nilwil]

i had the same problem with mine Dual mass flywheel and i put a solid flywheel set up in little bit noisier but its a 4 wheel drive

[RIGY60]

Sounds like the duel mass flywheel. Cheers Jeremy.

[hiy6o]

Sure does Jeremy look for a grease or fluid type leak from the bottom of the bell housing or pull back the clutch fork boot and look with a torch . when these flywheels fail they usually throw grease inside the bell housing .

[paultrol]

Hi GUys,

Thanks for all your replies really appreciate the help.

Anyways, I ended up changing the injectors for new ones, but it's still doing the engine shake.
this is not a CRD guys.

SWAFFIE
there is no engine light on, but since you mentioned this. I ended up trying to find any fault codes to the engine sensors and happen to find 2 isssues. At first I thought about doing this before I had change anything on my 4wd but I'm going to have this car for awhile so it's done about 100k's anyways so I change the injectors.
Here are the fault codes I got
fault code (0905) - Turbo pressure
Circuit malfunction, Charge Air Pressure Sensor failure

I assume this means the boost sensor connected to the intercooler has gone faulty? correct me if I'm wrong, but anyways I will have my mates 4wd that is exactly the same model and engine to test out components on the weekend.

faulty code (0703) - Pump Communication Line
(incorrect signal from the injection pump control unit)
refer to Injection Pump Control Unit
Circuit malfunction, Injection Pump Control Unit

This I have no idea and will keep searching for answers before I think about touching the Injector pump.

I notice all the replies are still heading towards the dual mass flywheel issue.
I will still bare this in mind, but if anyone can point me to the right direction as to where to start regarding these fault codes that would be greatly appreciated.
If anyone has done fault code reading and it's been accurate please share also if you have come across these faults as well.

THANKS a heap guys.

keep the posts coming

cheers,
Paul

[Dzltec]

Clear the codes and see what comes back, they may have been caused from some time back and have no relevance now.

Have you checked for grease in the bell housing, does it have loud mechanical noises at idle and then goes away once you touch the accelerator?

Andy

[paultrol]

Clear the codes and see what comes back, they may have been caused from some time back and have no relevance now.

Have you checked for grease in the bell housing, does it have loud mechanical noises at idle and then goes away once you touch the accelerator?

Andy

Hey Andy,

Coming off topic for a bit, but I bought water/oil lines and fittings from you for my turbo setup, quality stuff, cheers for that. My shorty has never been better after that.

Anyways, I cleared/erased the codes and got (0505) which is no fault code at all. I just checked the Bell housing and I didn't notice any grease from the last time checked and now. It's abit dark at the moment so I will check it again.
Also, that clanking noise on idle went away after I changed the injectors, whether it fixed it or not as I haven't driven the car since the injectors have been replaced. When I start the car up, it takes about a minute or so until the engine starts shaking again, best describing this shake I would say it seems like it jerks every 3-5 seconds, if you look at the actuator on the turbo, when it's about to jerk the actuator moves up then back down again once it stops jerking. When I do touch the accelarator it does go away, but you can still notice the engine shaking, just seems like its shaking/jerking a lot faster because of the higher rev point.

any ideas? feels like I'm back to where I started again.

thanks for the help.

Paul

[sswaffie]

Make sure who ever scanning the car has a bosch KTS scan tool as some
other brands can give you all weired and wacky faults , and as Andy has
meantioned clear codes and go from there .dont stress about pump comm
error by all means dont replace pump untill needed ie fault regarding wiz
sensor ( fuel solenoid / Spill valve ) its common that EGR alloy pipe leaks
hot exhaust gasses and wrecks wires on this solenoid ! Lap surfaces on alloy
pipe to make surface flat again to fix problem , or block egr at valve.


Google idle adjustment zd30 and you should find it on the patrol forum
there is a dashpot adjustment on the ecu this may help your problem of
idle . Injectors at 100 000 klms i would highly doubt any problems there but
a look under a microscope would be better confirmation , these are set with
flow not pressure from factory (Bosch)

[itchyvet]

Have seen this problem previously on my son in law's DX 3 litre Patrol.
In fact he voiced his concern to the Nissan dealers when he took it in for servicing.
They couldn't find the fault. DUH ? Not a suprise.
The following weekend we found the fault after the flywheel collapsed. Dual mass flywheel.
It's amazing that Nissan dealerships are unable to identify this fault as it's very common amongst it's stable of Patrols.
My advice would be to cease spending further money on items that are not connected with the fault, and verify whether in fact it is the dual mass flywheel/clutch assembly, then either replace with original new, or solid mass flywheel and new clutch.

There is much debate on the issue of dual mass flywheels and replacing thereof with solid. I won't go into that suffice to say, I'm sorry that I replaced my dual mass with a solid, altered completetly the driving characteristics of the vehicle, and in hind sight, would have gone down the road of factory original dual mass.

Oh well, different strokes for different folks. Hey ?

[roberts]

Have seen this problem previously on my son in law's DX 3 litre Patrol.
In fact he voiced his concern to the Nissan dealers when he took it in for servicing.
They couldn't find the fault. DUH ? Not a suprise.
The following weekend we found the fault after the flywheel collapsed. Dual mass flywheel.
It's amazing that Nissan dealerships are unable to identify this fault as it's very common amongst it's stable of Patrols.
My advice would be to cease spending further money on items that are not connected with the fault, and verify whether in fact it is the dual mass flywheel/clutch assembly, then either replace with original new, or solid mass flywheel and new clutch.

There is much debate on the issue of dual mass flywheels and replacing thereof with solid. I won't go into that suffice to say, I'm sorry that I replaced my dual mass with a solid, altered completetly the driving characteristics of the vehicle, and in hind sight, would have gone down the road of factory original dual mass.

Oh well, different strokes for different folks. Hey ?

hahah you thought your gearbox would get pulled out at a service to check flywheel specs, oh hang on you where serious

[camo shorty]

i worked at a nissan dealer for a while we had a few problems with the turbos on that model. they would carbon up in the variable veins adn stop boost actuator working, cause overboosting and would lodge a fault code. we replace the turbo with an upgraded one with no coolant line going to it and plugged off the coolant ports on the engine. (the cooling lines have nothing to do with the internals its just what nissan sent us for a replacement you could probably stip the turbo down and clean it out ) also if you havent changed your air filter or it has got a bit dusty your air flow meter might have failed...

[bowtie landie]

Sure does Jeremy look for a grease or fluid type leak from the bottom of the bell housing or pull back the clutch fork boot and look with a torch . when these flywheels fail they usually throw grease inside the bell housing .

x2

- it doesn't take much to look & see - and it is more than likely the problem