HOT TD42

[Dirty]

Thats interesting about the filter diaphragm. I will certainly give that a go, and going to a decent filter with a 2 or 4 micron filter definitely is a good idea even if it doesnt solve the heating issues.

It isn't the filter itself that is crap, it is the manual hand pump on the top that allows air in. Most Nissan workshops will confirm this sucks air after a while, sometime you can just tighten up the screw on the top, but eventually it will need to be replaced.

Get a CAV filter unit with hand pump. Problem solved and filters are cheap and plentiful for ever after.

- David.

[Wozza244]

Ok sounds like a plan. I got the radiator delivered today, somewhere between china and here they threw it around a bit too much!! The box was damaged alot when it turned up, but i remained positive till i opened it..... Massive dent into the fins and bent cores in about 10mm, and the top mount has been bent, which must have been from a heavy drop from a fair height!!! They said they would replace it right away. Thats great but i need it now!!
The radiator isnt the best quality and it definitely looks like a kids metalwork project slapped together, but it looks strong and they havent skimped on any welds, it looks pretty well solid. Looks like another 2 weeks wait till i get to fit it and the new water pump. Stay tuned.

[thehanko]

Ok sounds like a plan. I got the radiator delivered today, somewhere between china and here they threw it around a bit too much!! The box was damaged alot when it turned up, but i remained positive till i opened it..... Massive dent into the fins and bent cores in about 10mm, and the top mount has been bent, which must have been from a heavy drop from a fair height!!! They said they would replace it right away. Thats great but i need it now!!
The radiator isnt the best quality and it definitely looks like a kids metalwork project slapped together, but it looks strong and they havent skimped on any welds, it looks pretty well solid. Looks like another 2 weeks wait till i get to fit it and the new water pump. Stay tuned.

im sure your used to looking at your temp guage, but keep a real good eye on the chinese rad in a 4wd, as mine cracked on me when 3 weeks old, bottom pipe split at the solder line then eventually basically fell out - no impact just vibration in the vic high country - massive head ache getting back to civilisation and a bottle of chemiweld.

seriously it might have been ok on a civic but not on a 4wd.

mine was through nationwide radiators - when the chinese one was a fail they warrented it and i put the money towards a new core - best copper core they could get (copper is still better efficiency than alloy and doesn't fatigue from vibration like alloy) cost about $480ish i think instead of the $350 for the chinese junk.

that was in a hilux but the re core was phenominally effective, more copper, more core and less money than a pwr etc by about 60%. (it weighed 40% more than the chinese one - thats alot more cooling ability)

I just looked them up as the job they did on the recore is awsome - the owner was very informative and seemed to know his stuff - worth a chat to see if they have an upgrade core available for the patrol.
0388457008

[Wozza244]

Thanks for the info there Hanko, it did look really well built but i guess time will tell. A custom one as you said might be the go, but i really hope this radiator does fix the problem.

[heathgu]

What sort of front mount intercooler are you running???

If it is a high fin pitch core it could be block alot of air entering your radiator. I would be look here myself. As it seem you have tried everything else.
Most well design front mount will only add 4-7degree to your radiator temps.

Just an idea.

Cheers Heath

[Wozza244]

Not sure on the brand of IC, but it is well manufactured and i can see through the fins fairly well.
The bigger alloy radiator has dropped the temps a bit with normal driving up hills, i havent loaded it up yet, nor has the daytime temps been really high.
The waterpump was fine, but i put the new one on anyway.
Next step after all this engineering drama is the CAV filter, whether it needs it or not, im doing it.
When i took it in for its last dyno tune, he offered it to me for i think $550 fitted. From memory it was a Water Watch brand. That or i might just call them direct, buy and fit it myself.

[Wozza244]

Quick update, radiator has helped alot. Running about 80deg at 110kmh on a 34 degree day down the highway unloaded. Its doing good, still gets up there a bit when loaded and boosting but it cools off really quickly unlike before when it spiked up near 95 it took forever to cool it down.

[Wozza244]

The problem with the TD42 is the hand primer on the filter is shit and the diaphragm after not much time allows air to pass though it. The TD42 pump uses the incoming fuel to advance its timing and as the demand for fuel goes up more air gets sucked in through the diaphragm and this air doesn't allow the pump to advance correctly.
- David.

I ran this by my diesel guy last week, he says its rubbish because they dont advance. Well on my 95 TD42 they dont anyway, they are just mechanical injection and that hand primer wont do anything to affect the pump at all. The only thing that advances the revs is when the air con is running. If the hand primer is leaking air, it will shudder on startup while it re primes itself and thats about it.

[chunks]

Most people on here have a fair bit of mechanical aptitude and know how to flush a cooling system, for those that don't, read on.
Drain coolant - Remove radiator cap from cold engine. If there's no tap on your radiator, pull the bottom hose off and allow to drain. when empty, replace hose/shut tap. Buy a descaling agent/radiator cleaner. Put it in the radiator, if it's a concentrate, use demineralised water. Follow instructions. Some say to run the car for a few minutes, some say a few hours. Considering you're driving the car for no other reason other than to get it warm, drive it to your local parts shop. Ask them for a thermostat and gasket to suit your engine, some high quality coolant, not the fluro water that's 3.99, pay for it (that last part is important, don't forget it) Go with a reputable brand of thermostat, or genuine if you can.
Allow engine to cool. Remove radiator cap and following the draining procedure or any other specific instructions on the scaling agent you've used. Close tap/replace hose. Remove the thermostat housing and replace the thermostat. Fill radiator with coolant, start engine and keep pouring coolant in till she can take no more. .

Adding a radiator flush and just draining the cooling system is not a coolant flush. You need to thoroughly flush the block, heater core and radiator both ways with clean water to get every last trace of the old coolant/contamination out. You also should mix coolant concentrate in a ratio of between 33-50% with water, not just fill the system to the brim with coolant.

I wouldn't mind trying some of this in my TD42 even though it doesn't get hot http://liquidintelligence115.com.au/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; We use all their other products in our workshop and they work well.

[Wozza244]

Wouldnt mind trying this stuff, i will see how i got into summer and then make a decision.

[Northside 4x4]

The coolant bypass setup in the thermostat housing needs modifying.

There is a thread about it on the patrol forums.

Basically, the bypass doesnt shut off until about 105deg with the standard thermostat. Meaning by the time it shuts off, the temp is racing out of control.
The easy fix is to fit a thermostat that opens further for a lower temperature rating.

Apart from that, engine oil cooler helps dramatically. Especially on engines that have the standard intake manifold.
#1 and #6 piston run the hottest due to poor airflow to these cylinders.
So the coolant hits the head and cops the full brunt of the heat, then when its almost out cops another huge temp increase from hot #6 cylinder.

[thehanko]

Ive wondered about fitting an oil cooler, for when towing big loads, to help reduce the strain on what is a marginal cooling system.

Has anyone fitted one to a td42 manual?

Ive always wondered where you fit them into the system?

[Northside 4x4]

I have fitted hundreds over the years.

The kit I sell has a fitting that screws in under the front oil filter and feeds/returns oil from the cooler mounted in the front of the vehicle.

You will see, 20-30deg temp drops in average oil temp even with a relatively small oil cooler fitted.

[thehanko]

does this do much to help remove overall temperature from the engine? or simply keeps you oil in a better operating range?

What are they worth?

Thanks
Ben

[Northside 4x4]

does this do much to help remove overall temperature from the engine? or simply keeps you oil in a better operating range?

What are they worth?

Thanks
Ben

It does quite a bit for lowering coolant temp yes.

As they have an internal oil/water heat exchanger, every degree the oil temp drops, its one less degree the coolant has to pull out of it.

[Wozza244]

Well, 5 months down the track and the big fancy 3 core chinese aluminium radiator from ebay has started to leak, im going to throw some stop leak in it and see how i go, but im going to get a custom copper one built i think. Terrain tamer has one and its alumimium too, for $941 which i thought was a bit steep.
Ah well i still have my little copper one spare, i will just chuck it in the back on my trip to the high country next month. It handles anything but highway speeds with hills thrown in, so im certain i can adjust my driving style for one trip.

[Tazz]

I think the problem there could be "chinese radiator" not that it's alloy.

My dad was having the typical TD42 warmth problems in his GU wagon - particually when towing. 18 months ago we dropped a PWR alloy radiator in as he was just about to head of travelling.

They have one done 50,000ks since leaving through Vic, SA, WA, NT, QLD and are now cruising back down the NSW east coast. The whole time they've been fairly loaded up - 18ft dual axle offroad van, mountain bikes, fold up boat, outboard motor, recovery gear, draws, fridge, 3 spare 33's on 15x10 steelies etc etc. Since fitting the PWR radiator dad says the temp gauge has not risen above 1/2.

They have crossed the nullabor, headed up the west coast line to darwin, gibb river rd, kimberley etc and not even the longest hill or dragging the van through sandy tracks in low range has seen the temp move - he as was a little concerned that the alloy mite crack with all the corrugated roads, but has not had any probs whatsoever and says it still looks like new and there is no sign of any cracking on the mounts.

The PWR one was bloody expensive at the time, but needless to say dad is wrapped with it and glad he spent the extra on it....some food for thought maybe.

[Wozza244]

I think the problem there could be "chinese radiator" not that it's alloy.

My dad was having the typical TD42 warmth problems in his GU wagon - particually when towing. 18 months ago we dropped a PWR alloy radiator in as he was just about to head of travelling.

They have one done 50,000ks since leaving through Vic, SA, WA, NT, QLD and are now cruising back down the NSW east coast. The whole time they've been fairly loaded up - 18ft dual axle offroad van, mountain bikes, fold up boat, outboard motor, recovery gear, draws, fridge, 3 spare 33's on 15x10 steelies etc etc. Since fitting the PWR radiator dad says the temp gauge has not risen above 1/2.

They have crossed the nullabor, headed up the west coast line to darwin, gibb river rd, kimberley etc and not even the longest hill or dragging the van through sandy tracks in low range has seen the temp move - he as was a little concerned that the alloy mite crack with all the corrugated roads, but has not had any probs whatsoever and says it still looks like new and there is no sign of any cracking on the mounts.

The PWR one was bloody expensive at the time, but needless to say dad is wrapped with it and glad he spent the extra on it....some food for thought maybe.

Yeah your not wrong Tazz, i sent them an email and they are happy to replace it, one is on its way to me now. The quality is poor on some parts of the radiator, yet other parts on it are really well made. Definitely cant complain about the customer service though, the contacted me within minutes of sending an angry email and had the problem sorted straight away.
Good luck with tuff truck this year mate, im bloody rostered on that weekend!

[Tazz]

Good to hear they are shooting you out a new one - that is good service. Hopefully you get more than 5mths out of this one hey :-)

[Jimbo]

How's the cooling going?

Having similar troubles with the Tb42 so i bought a china spec rad and a new clutch fan hub. All good until highway speed like yours. For some reason the fan is kicking in very late. I pulled it apart and found very little oil inside. I have now topped it up with a tube of silicon oil from Toyota but need a hot day to trial it all.

As a test i fit a seized fan hub and temps never went above 87 degrees in summer with the china rad.

[Wozza244]

Very good service Tazz!!

Its been good since the big alloy rad but still gets up to 100 on a hill loaded. I think it might be a case of adjusting my driving style to suit.