fitting a Pertronix to a GQ

[RN]

Any good ignition workshop should be able to fit them. They come with instructions. Source it from overseas like other members then approach the workshop.

[SiNH]

Any chance of someone posting a picture of how the 1762LS Pertronix looks installed?

I am going to give this a try myself since the 1762LS doesnt require any grinding and cutting.

But to confirm can someone who has fitted the 1762LS tell me if I am not correct?

I wasnt planning on removing anything except the distributor cap, points and condensor to do this, the distributor never leaves the car right?

NOTE: I just found out what points and condensor looked like within 15mins ago LOL

So yeah if someone could be so kind to confirm the above and most of all provide a picture of the final product I would greatly appreciate it.

[Mowie]

I am going to give this a try myself since the 1762LS doesnt require any grinding and cutting.

But to confirm can someone who has fitted the 1762LS tell me if I am not correct?

No grinding or cutting, points come out, 1762LS drops in.
You will need to remove some of the wires associated with a points setup out of the dizzy. I taped my up so I can go back to a points setup with out fuss if the need ever came up.

Only pic I've got is of a dizzy with the points taken out.
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[SiNH]

Excellent, thank you for the picture.

So just to confirm, all those black earth wires there, you just folded them up and taped them off ( except for the short earth that screws into the Pertronix base plate ) so its as easy as undoing the tape and revert to the points and condensor setup again?

None of these black wires are actually used right? except the short one to provide a earth to the base plate?

Just wanted to make sure since Ive ordered mine but it hasnt arrived yet.

[Mowie]

None of the wires are used, the earth wire is not needed in a non points setup.

I removed that and keep it with my spare points, the rest are taped up outside and cable tied to the new wires for the Lobe sensor.

The ruber gromit where the wires come in to the dizzy I made an inscision in to remove the existing wires and replaced with the new.

Hope this helps.

[borisr33]

I have just fitted the 1762LS to my car but i can't get the bloody thing to run right!

I'm wondering if anyone knows what the gap between the module and the lobe should be?

I have wired the red wire from the module to the white with black trace wire on the ballast resistor and the black wire from the module to the neg on the coil.

The tacho just jumps around like crazy and it will only run for a few seconds and conk out, timing just seems to be way out. Have tired to start and adjust timing at the same time but still no luck.

Any help would be appreciated

[-ET 4wd-]

As far as im aware the red wire goes to the positive side of the coil and the black wire goes to the neg side of the coil as i think the instructions say?

Not sure on this myself? Mine is wired with the red wire to the 12v side of the ballast and the black wire hooked up to the black wire that goes to the dizzy from the original points?
Mine runs but the coil gets DAMN hot and it misses between about 3500 and 5500.
Can some one help me with the correct wiring, and if there is a 'air gap' for the black box to the shaft what is it?

Thanks for any help in advance

EDIT: Just rang the bloke here at Outlaw Speed Shop and he said to run the RED wire to the 12v side of the BALLAST and run the BLACK wire to the NEGATIVE side of the coil.......does this sound right?

Steve.

[dibbo]

i have a 1762ls that i have purchased on ebay and i went to fit it but it doesn't seem to line up i can't see what holes are supposed to line up and there is a little lug that it hits could someone offer some advise or even better show me a picture of one fitted

[Freakazoid]

I've had mine in for 6 years now, starting to give some hassles. They don't seem to last forever. On my Lux I also had one die on me after about 7 years.

The resistor as far as I remember must not be in circuit and you have to unplug the points and condenser. They run rough when the gap between pick-up and magnets are too large, so try and get as small as possible. Sometimes they rub on the plate that separates points from rotor and they stick a bit, messing with timing. I put a little grease there.

Mine is giving me hassles and it seems that the current remedy is to open the dizzy and close it and it runs Ok for a week. Then starts missing badly and I open it up and it runs fine again. Can't figure out the failure mode.

They do seem to help with economy and a bit smoother torque curve.

[brad-chevlux]

So you've all fitted an electronic conversion but still use a 9V low out put coil?

seems a little defeating to leave low out put coil in the system.
With a good 12V high out put coil there would be no need to start using modified rotors or caps as well. In fact you can even open the plug gap up by 0.1 to 0.2 mm

[ORSM4B]

l just fitted my unit and had to file back the collet at the top and after install the tacho jumps around and has a miss when free reving it,,,,,,,changed coils cause i have an efi coil and it is a 3ohm coil and i still have the same problem and mine is doing it on gas and petrol but to me its an electrical problem but cant work out what it is.......HELP PLEASE.....

Cheers Chris

[ORSM4B]

ive worked out something it's not firing number 4 cyl as the exhuast was colder on that pot, so them tested the lead and no spark, so got another lead and again no spark out of number 4 out of the cap.....struggling here need a fix as going away for chrissy

Cheers Chris

[ORSM4B]

Worked out the problem was with the magnetic pickup, they left one magnet out so it thought i had a 5cyl engine,,,bloody Yanks lol

Cheers Chris