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MEGATROL wrote:Hi now i don't run big HP only a turbo diesel but in running 37s on a gq ute for winch challenges up her in Central qld, my opinion is that a braced GQ front diff with Caloffroad CVs and axles will be stronger than a gu diff any day, i run arb airlockers in both diffs, my weak point is the free wheeling hubs, i go thru them pretty quick, i choose to leave that as the weak link as its cheap and quick to fix, instead of smashing cvs or diff centres.
Just my opinion
Cheers Pickels
Yeh that was my understanding about the full built gq diff with chromos being stronger than a stock gu diff.
I got these diffs for free so I wasn't going to turn them down as they had genuine 4.6 ratios in them. So I'm bracing the diff as its relatively not that expensive. Locker is then going in then ill see how long mine spec cvs go as I got a brand new set for $100 one off price. Then look into heat treated CVs and axles or even cals.
So as for the free wheeling hubs that is the best week point then. I was thinking of running drive plates??
Regards
Mitch
"If you are gonna live life on the edge u better have some good balance"
MEGATROL wrote:Hi now i don't run big HP only a turbo diesel but in running 37s on a gq ute for winch challenges up her in Central qld, my opinion is that a braced GQ front diff with Caloffroad CVs and axles will be stronger than a gu diff any day, i run arb airlockers in both diffs, my weak point is the free wheeling hubs, i go thru them pretty quick, i choose to leave that as the weak link as its cheap and quick to fix, instead of smashing cvs or diff centres.
Just my opinion
Cheers Pickels
Yeh that was my understanding about the full built gq diff with chromos being stronger than a stock gu diff.
Cals aren't worth the time or money. They are stronger than stock but not by much.
GUs are standing up ok but longs are cheaper, better steering angle and have a warranty and great customer service!
As for your hubs Superior Engineering make chromoly hubs.
"Mine spec" I'm unsure on quality but they are meant to cost 450 a cv and axle. A mate just did some sly work where he works. Ill just use standard ones for now until I get sick of breaking them
Regards
Mitch
"If you are gonna live life on the edge u better have some good balance"
It comes down a lot to how you drive and when you kick your front lockers in and how you use them. I raced for 2 years on the same factory CV's on my GU without breaking a single one. I was racing on 35's though. But Matt Bolger in his GU only broke CV's when he bent his front diff housing. He was racing on 36" Simex Xtreme.
You'll have plenty of people say that we weren't driving hard enough if we didn't break them but thats not true. It was more about using the tools we had (the lockers) correctly.
Don't hit the lockers when at more than half turn unless stopped and try not to use the front lockers at full lock and you'll save your CV's pretty well. Picking your lines will help you massively and having done a fair bit of Navi work for another driver will give you a great heads up.
You'll find that you'll only break a GU CV if you are running bigger than 37s and the red mist comes down and you just punch it to get over or out of something.
