Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Basic Maintainence you should do after a trip/comp/wheeling
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Basic Maintainence you should do after a trip/comp/wheeling
Ok guys. There doesn't seem to be much on here in one place for the maintainence that you should carry out after you do a trip or comp or a weekend wheeling.
Brakes:
Remove each wheel and remove each brake caliper and take the pads out and give everything a good clean with proper "brake clean". Check the pads and rotor for wear and grease up the slide pins with anti seize and then replace the pads and calipers. Its a good idea to use a little thread lock on the bolts as well. The blue thread lock is better than the red for this. Check all your brake lines for any sign of leaks or damage. Check the flexible brake lines from your diffs to the chassis to check if there is any sign of stretching or rubbing. Stretching means they are not long enough and if they are extended then they may rub on something.
Hubs:
Check the wiper seal to see if there are any leaks. With the wheel on, hold the wheel top and bottom and give it a shake (top to bottom) and see if there is any movement in the bearings and then hold the wheel front and rear and shake it again to see if there is any movement in the steering linkages. Remove the front hubs and check for any water inside. Check to see if the bearings are greased properly and adjust the tension of the bearings if needed.
Linkages:
While you have the wheels off, have a look at all the suspension linkages including the shock mounts and steering damper. Its a good idea to remove each end of the panhard and grease up the bushes. Check all the ball joints and check your steering box for leaks. Don't forget to check the steering shaft that goes from your steering box back to the steering wheel. Also don't forget to check the radius arm chassis mounts as well.
Springs:
Springs should be in resonable shape. They last pretty well. But check the spring mounts for any cracks and any misalignment that may indicate metal fatigue. Especially in the rear chassis mounts. While you're there check for any signs of cracking or fatigue around the chassis panhard mounts as well.
Fluids:
Check all your fluid levels and change them if needed. This includes diff, transfer, gearbox, engine, clutch, brake, battery, radiator and windscreen fluids. Physically check the condition of the oil in the diffs, gearbox and transfer by undoing the drain plug enough for some oil to leak out so you can see if it milky. If it is milky then you have water in the oil. Check the engine oil for the same thing just by using the dip stick. Check your fuel filter as well to make sure you have a clean fuel system.
Breather tubes:
Check all the breather tubes for wear and tear. Make sure they aren't cracked or undone from one end. There are breather tubes on the diffs, gearbox, transfer case and fuel tanks.
Drive shafts:
Get under the car and check your drive shafts for any visual damage. Grease up your uni joints and check the mounting bolts are done up properly.
Tyres:
Check over your tyres for any damage and also check the pressures. Check over the rims and make sure there isn't any rubbish in the beads and if you have bead locks then remove them and make sure they're all clean and damage free and then refit them.
Engine:
Check all belts and plug leads (if you have them) Check injector lines and pump for any leaks. (TD 42, check thimble fliter in top of injector pump). Check viscous fan and condition of the fan itself. Check radiator hoses and any vacuum lines. Check and clean air filter and replace if neeeded.
Electrical:
Check all your wiring in the engine bay and do a check of all your lights and electrical systems. Clean connectors and spray with an inhibitor to keep them clean and ready for use.
Overall:
Give the truck a good wash and make sure you get underneath and clean off any mud. Especially if you have been around water or salt. Touch up any exposed metal areas with paint.
If you do this then your truck will last your lifetime and then some. Hope this helps.
Steve
Brakes:
Remove each wheel and remove each brake caliper and take the pads out and give everything a good clean with proper "brake clean". Check the pads and rotor for wear and grease up the slide pins with anti seize and then replace the pads and calipers. Its a good idea to use a little thread lock on the bolts as well. The blue thread lock is better than the red for this. Check all your brake lines for any sign of leaks or damage. Check the flexible brake lines from your diffs to the chassis to check if there is any sign of stretching or rubbing. Stretching means they are not long enough and if they are extended then they may rub on something.
Hubs:
Check the wiper seal to see if there are any leaks. With the wheel on, hold the wheel top and bottom and give it a shake (top to bottom) and see if there is any movement in the bearings and then hold the wheel front and rear and shake it again to see if there is any movement in the steering linkages. Remove the front hubs and check for any water inside. Check to see if the bearings are greased properly and adjust the tension of the bearings if needed.
Linkages:
While you have the wheels off, have a look at all the suspension linkages including the shock mounts and steering damper. Its a good idea to remove each end of the panhard and grease up the bushes. Check all the ball joints and check your steering box for leaks. Don't forget to check the steering shaft that goes from your steering box back to the steering wheel. Also don't forget to check the radius arm chassis mounts as well.
Springs:
Springs should be in resonable shape. They last pretty well. But check the spring mounts for any cracks and any misalignment that may indicate metal fatigue. Especially in the rear chassis mounts. While you're there check for any signs of cracking or fatigue around the chassis panhard mounts as well.
Fluids:
Check all your fluid levels and change them if needed. This includes diff, transfer, gearbox, engine, clutch, brake, battery, radiator and windscreen fluids. Physically check the condition of the oil in the diffs, gearbox and transfer by undoing the drain plug enough for some oil to leak out so you can see if it milky. If it is milky then you have water in the oil. Check the engine oil for the same thing just by using the dip stick. Check your fuel filter as well to make sure you have a clean fuel system.
Breather tubes:
Check all the breather tubes for wear and tear. Make sure they aren't cracked or undone from one end. There are breather tubes on the diffs, gearbox, transfer case and fuel tanks.
Drive shafts:
Get under the car and check your drive shafts for any visual damage. Grease up your uni joints and check the mounting bolts are done up properly.
Tyres:
Check over your tyres for any damage and also check the pressures. Check over the rims and make sure there isn't any rubbish in the beads and if you have bead locks then remove them and make sure they're all clean and damage free and then refit them.
Engine:
Check all belts and plug leads (if you have them) Check injector lines and pump for any leaks. (TD 42, check thimble fliter in top of injector pump). Check viscous fan and condition of the fan itself. Check radiator hoses and any vacuum lines. Check and clean air filter and replace if neeeded.
Electrical:
Check all your wiring in the engine bay and do a check of all your lights and electrical systems. Clean connectors and spray with an inhibitor to keep them clean and ready for use.
Overall:
Give the truck a good wash and make sure you get underneath and clean off any mud. Especially if you have been around water or salt. Touch up any exposed metal areas with paint.
If you do this then your truck will last your lifetime and then some. Hope this helps.
Steve
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 6&t=231346j-top paj wrote:gayer than jizz on a beard
Re: Basic Maintainence you should do after a trip/comp/wheel
Thanks Steve. Now in the FAQ Bible.
Re: Basic Maintainence you should do after a trip/comp/wheel
Great thread.
Just sent it to the missus, now she doesn't have to keep asking me what's next;.....
Just sent it to the missus, now she doesn't have to keep asking me what's next;.....
" You can't fix it if you don't break it "
Re: Basic Maintainence you should do after a trip/comp/wheel
Not bad at all, definitely could take up a full day but worth it.
brooksy
brooksy
C44F-Custom 4x4 Fabrications
0400 443 802
brooksy72@live.com.au
0400 443 802
brooksy72@live.com.au
Re: Basic Maintainence you should do after a trip/comp/wheel
Most of it is just inspecting and checking so once you get a routine going it doesn't actually take that long to do.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 6&t=231346j-top paj wrote:gayer than jizz on a beard
Re: Basic Maintainence you should do after a trip/comp/wheel
do you really remove the front hub every time you wheel?
I agree with the rest, but I would only remove the front hubs after a serious amount of water crossings or salt water work, or if i suspected a problem.
am i lazy ? D:!
I agree with the rest, but I would only remove the front hubs after a serious amount of water crossings or salt water work, or if i suspected a problem.
am i lazy ? D:!
03 HDJ100R GXL / 94 FJ45-80
Re: Basic Maintainence you should do after a trip/comp/wheel
Its just 6 hex bolts. Takes about 5mins to take them off to check inside. If you've done some wheeling through mud and water then I'd recommend to do this. Its just a quick inspection and if you have lockers and larger tyres then this is a good idea because you can check for cracks etc in the free wheel hub at the same time. I'm not talking about removing the entire knuckle. Just the hub.Shadow wrote:do you really remove the front hub every time you wheel?
I agree with the rest, but I would only remove the front hubs after a serious amount of water crossings or salt water work, or if i suspected a problem.
am i lazy ? D:!
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 6&t=231346j-top paj wrote:gayer than jizz on a beard
Re: Basic Maintainence you should do after a trip/comp/wheel
x 2 But didn't send to the missus, I will do it myself (missus is too damn lazy when it comes to maintenance)loosecanon wrote:Great thread.
Just sent it to the missus, now she doesn't have to keep asking me what's next;.....
Re: Basic Maintainence you should do after a trip/comp/wheel
That would take a lot of the fun out of wheeling for me... Other than being on trip (where I have a quick look each day) I barely look under the bonnet anymore.
I'm not quitting drinking, I'm retiring at the top of my game - sporting comeback likely.
Re: Basic Maintainence you should do after a trip/comp/wheel
you mean the free wheel hubs, or the wheel hub?toughnut wrote:Its just 6 hex bolts. Takes about 5mins to take them off to check inside. If you've done some wheeling through mud and water then I'd recommend to do this. Its just a quick inspection and if you have lockers and larger tyres then this is a good idea because you can check for cracks etc in the free wheel hub at the same time. I'm not talking about removing the entire knuckle. Just the hub.Shadow wrote:do you really remove the front hub every time you wheel?
I agree with the rest, but I would only remove the front hubs after a serious amount of water crossings or salt water work, or if i suspected a problem.
am i lazy ? D:!
03 HDJ100R GXL / 94 FJ45-80
Re: Basic Maintainence you should do after a trip/comp/wheel
Just the free/auto hub. Not the entire knuckle.Shadow wrote:you mean the free wheel hubs, or the wheel hub?toughnut wrote:Its just 6 hex bolts. Takes about 5mins to take them off to check inside. If you've done some wheeling through mud and water then I'd recommend to do this. Its just a quick inspection and if you have lockers and larger tyres then this is a good idea because you can check for cracks etc in the free wheel hub at the same time. I'm not talking about removing the entire knuckle. Just the hub.Shadow wrote:do you really remove the front hub every time you wheel?
I agree with the rest, but I would only remove the front hubs after a serious amount of water crossings or salt water work, or if i suspected a problem.
am i lazy ? D:!
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 6&t=231346j-top paj wrote:gayer than jizz on a beard
Re: Basic Maintainence you should do after a trip/comp/wheel
Would only go that far if you are driving an old beat up bunky with questionable parts.
A car with good quality equip should just need a thorough wash down / degrease and then during servicing inspect the above.
A car with good quality equip should just need a thorough wash down / degrease and then during servicing inspect the above.
Ryan
96' HDJ80R, Safari Intercooled, 3" Beaudesert
05' XR6 Turbo, 400hp of fun
09' Hyundai Getz, daily
96' HDJ80R, Safari Intercooled, 3" Beaudesert
05' XR6 Turbo, 400hp of fun
09' Hyundai Getz, daily
Re: Basic Maintainence you should do after a trip/comp/wheel
I would do this after each comp or if I did a big trip or a hard weekend of wheeling. Its just a guide and if you don't like it then simply don't follow it. Once you have a bit more experience you get to know what you need to check properly and what you can skim over depending on what you've been doing but for me this was a minimum after a competition.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 6&t=231346j-top paj wrote:gayer than jizz on a beard
Re: Basic Maintainence you should do after a trip/comp/wheel
yeh i agree, whip the free-wheeling hub off(drive flange on my 100) and see if there's any water in there is a good check.toughnut wrote:Just the free/auto hub. Not the entire knuckle.Shadow wrote:you mean the free wheel hubs, or the wheel hub?toughnut wrote:Its just 6 hex bolts. Takes about 5mins to take them off to check inside. If you've done some wheeling through mud and water then I'd recommend to do this. Its just a quick inspection and if you have lockers and larger tyres then this is a good idea because you can check for cracks etc in the free wheel hub at the same time. I'm not talking about removing the entire knuckle. Just the hub.Shadow wrote:do you really remove the front hub every time you wheel?
I agree with the rest, but I would only remove the front hubs after a serious amount of water crossings or salt water work, or if i suspected a problem.
am i lazy ? D:!
03 HDJ100R GXL / 94 FJ45-80
Posts: 3725
Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2004 1:45 pm
Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2004 1:45 pm
Location: Blue Mountains, or on a rig somewhere in bumf*ck idaho
Re: Basic Maintainence you should do after a trip/comp/wheel
Agree, After a few years of hard wheeling and comps i know my vehicle back to front. I can save a lot of time by checking the bits that i know are susceptible from experience and past failures first.toughnut wrote: Once you have a bit more experience you get to know what you need to check properly and what you can skim over depending on what you've been doing but for me this was a minimum after a competition.
http://www.populationparty.org.au/
Re: Basic Maintainence you should do after a trip/comp/wheel
Buggered if I'm doing that once a week!
80 xtra cab
Supercharged LS1, Locked n shit
80 Wagon, TD Tourer, locked, Interco 35s, G turbo
Supercharged LS1, Locked n shit
80 Wagon, TD Tourer, locked, Interco 35s, G turbo
Re: Basic Maintainence you should do after a trip/comp/wheel
You don't have to. Like I said its just a guide. There are a lot of things on there that you wouldn't need to do if you don't drive in mud or water and most of it is just a quick check over. If you go out for pretty much a dry wheel on the weekend then you wouldn't have to do the brakes or hubs or anything like that. You wouldn't have to do much to the electrics if you haven't been near water or the beach. But linkages, springs, fluids, tyres, engine and a clean should all be done after a decent wheel, trip or comp. These things would only take a couple of hours at most if done properly.crankycruiser wrote:Buggered if I'm doing that once a week!
But if you're the kind of person that prefers to just drive your car and then fix it after something breaks or fails then no problem. But if you spend a little time to check things over regularly you'll find things before they become a problem and cost you much less to fix than it would after it causes a failure.
Its completely up to you. I only did this as a guide for people that want to know what to check. So use it as you like.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 6&t=231346j-top paj wrote:gayer than jizz on a beard
Re: Basic Maintainence you should do after a trip/comp/wheel
I think the tounge in cheek may have been missed on that one as i'm guessing cranky spends a fair bit of time in the scrub?toughnut wrote:You don't have to. Like I said its just a guide. So use it as you like.crankycruiser wrote:Buggered if I'm doing that once a week!
But after reading this it is guilting me into spending some quality time under the old girl (the GQ, not the wife).
Decided to do a "quick" rotate and balance at my mates work yesterday which turned into replacing a front wheel bearing!
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests