How strong are 80 series drive hubs?

[want33s]

How strong are 80 series drive hubs? You know, the plate the CV locks into instead of the locking hub... Stupid centre diff.


Are they a commonly broken item ?

[Black Bull]

The early ones had a tendency to flog out the splines, you can either change them to the later ones which will also mean getting new CV's to match as the splined section is about 10mm longer.

You can also get solid 4130 drive slugs, I think Trail Gear and Longfield do them.

OR...just put a set of normal Asin locking hubs on them, if you're running 4130 joints, upgrade the gear in them too and they are near bullet proof anyway

[want33s]

Cheers Bull.

I am fitting them to my buggy with hilux diffs.
I want the TG units but am running very low on cash nearing the end of the build.

[Black Bull]

Just run standard Aisin hubs for now mate, they'll survive unless you're running mega gearing and big stickies

[DIRTY ROCK STAR]

do you mean the drive flanges?
longfield make chromo ones which i run.
i sheared off all the studs holding the stock one in place somewhere on the frame twister at tuff truck.
since fitting longfield chromo ones with dowels no dramas.

[want33s]

Just run standard Aisin hubs for now mate, they'll survive unless you're running mega gearing and big stickies

Well I have dual transfers with gears so 10.72:1 transfer reduction... 4.88 diffs and 37" sticky Treps.

I would run the Aisin hubs but I don't have any.. My diffs came with ugly old WARN farked hubs.

do you mean the drive flanges?
longfield make chromo ones which i run.
i sheared off all the studs holding the stock one in place somewhere on the frame twister at tuff truck.
since fitting longfield chromo ones with dowels no dramas.

Yep..
I'd love some longfield or TG items but $$$ I don't have at the moment.

[rockcrawler31]

The stock one's are pretty good from what i've heard. I've only ever had freewheelers, but neither mine, nor my brother's full time flanges have ever busted. The studs for sure, but not the flanges themselves. For him that's 35's and longs on a heavy right boot in a full weight 80 series

For me that's 37's and turbo diesel torque in an even heavier rig.

But in the end the chromo one's would be a good investment.

DRS how did you get around the issue with the cutouts in the 80 series hubs to install the extra dowels? I might have asked this already but i forget

[stilivn]

How much money do you have left, you can get second hand aisins for under 150, or i have a second hand set of drive hubs im willing to sell pm me an offer. I also have a new set that came with a terrain tamer set but not sure who manufactured them.

[TheBigBoy]

Don't forget to add to the budget arp hub stud upgrades.

[rockcrawler31]

Don't forget to add to the budget arp hub stud upgrades.

Forget them and upgrade the M8 studs to M10 recessed shank SHCS's. In effect it makes it 6 x M10 dowels instead of the lateral shearing force being directed at the thread root of the studs like it is in factory applications.

[TheBigBoy]

What's this about recessed studs. There isn't enough meat to run 10mm studs. I looked into it as my rear has 10mm upgrades.

[rockcrawler31]

What's this about recessed studs. There isn't enough meat to run 10mm studs. I looked into it as my rear has 10mm upgrades.

There is. I've got 80 series front hubs and the ID and OD is the same on the hub where the bolts go into the hub face. Instead of just tapping an M10 thread in the exising hole you drill the hole for the thread, then drill a 10mm countersink to a depth of about 14mm (depends on what shank your bolts have) then tap the remaining portion of the original hole for M10. Ideally this should be done in a press so that the holes are true to vertical and the tolerances remain good, that way there's no lateral side loading and fatigue cycles on the stud in a slightly overbore hole

This means that your SHCS can have a shank of about 30mm or thereabouts, with 10 - 15mm of that taken up with the flange/locking hup and the cone washers. and the remaining 15mm continuing in to the hub. In effect you have taken away the prime weak point of the original studs which is having a thread (read - stress riser) adjacent to the flange matiing surfaces (read - the point of highest shear forces)

You use the M10 cone washer with the original taper as it fits the tapers quite well anyway. The original M8 cone washers actually have a gap or void at the bottom of the taper when seated. The holes in the flange/locking hub are actually pretty close to M10 already (about 9.2 last time i did this) so you just drill them to 10mm and use the later model cone washers.

In the rear i have been able to use a full length 80mm SHCS whereas on the front i have to use the same screw chopped down on the thread a tad otherwise the holes will start to protrude into the bearing cavity.

I took these out with my 37's on while doing a pre-run of the KOTR course. I had accidentally wired the locker switches the wrong way and ran the entire course full noise (and i mean flat knacker) with the front locker on thinking it was the rear. Up hills, down hills, turning corners, (while thinking there was a problem with my power steer) you name it. Held up just fine where in the past i was destroying the front studs regular as clockwork.

[evanstaniland]

I'd love some longfield or TG items but $$$ I don't have at the moment.

Longfield drive flanges are only $170 a pair
Trail gear $146
Def worth it

[TheBigBoy]

What's this about recessed studs. There isn't enough meat to run 10mm studs. I looked into it as my rear has 10mm upgrades.

There is. I've got 80 series front hubs and the ID and OD is the same on the hub where the bolts go into the hub face. Instead of just tapping an M10 thread in the exising hole you drill the hole for the thread, then drill a 10mm countersink to a depth of about 14mm (depends on what shank your bolts have) then tap the remaining portion of the original hole for M10. Ideally this should be done in a press so that the holes are true to vertical and the tolerances remain good, that way there's no lateral side loading and fatigue cycles on the stud in a slightly overbore hole

This means that your SHCS can have a shank of about 30mm or thereabouts, with 10 - 15mm of that taken up with the flange/locking hup and the cone washers. and the remaining 15mm continuing in to the hub. In effect you have taken away the prime weak point of the original studs which is having a thread (read - stress riser) adjacent to the flange matiing surfaces (read - the point of highest shear forces)

You use the M10 cone washer with the original taper as it fits the tapers quite well anyway. The original M8 cone washers actually have a gap or void at the bottom of the taper when seated. The holes in the flange/locking hub are actually pretty close to M10 already (about 9.2 last time i did this) so you just drill them to 10mm and use the later model cone
washers.

Where the ones you where destroying the arp's? Or stock. Chich some pics up of your studs.

In the rear i have been able to use a full length 80mm SHCS whereas on the front i have to use the same screw chopped down on the thread a tad otherwise the holes will start to protrude into the bearing cavity.

I took these out with my 37's on while doing a pre-run of the KOTR course. I had accidentally wired the locker switches the wrong way and ran the entire course full noise (and i mean flat knacker) with the front locker on thinking it was the rear. Up hills, down hills, turning corners, (while thinking there was a problem with my power steer) you name it. Held up just fine where in the past i was destroying the front studs regular as clockwork.

[rockcrawler31]

I had a long response typed out but it got lost

I used stock studs initially then M8 SHCS

I had no idea that ARP studs were available for this configuration, but to be honest after talking to a few engineers about how it works i still wouldn't. If they're working for you then great though.

As i said, i spoke to an engineer about it with a view to machining and end cap like the DANA system does that has an internal and external spline to mate the axle to the hub. His advise was to do what i have done now. His exact words were that the best system for holding load in that application is dowels in a tight fitting hole. The proof of this being that my already multi dowelled rear axles were holding up fine. (in fact i had progressed to blowing the axles - even though people told me they considered the 80 series axle unbreakable )

He also said the factory 2 x 6mm dowels were a joke once you went past stock horsepower or tyre size. When i mentioned upgraded bolts or studs (and that i had already destroyed M8 shcs') he told me that studs really ought only to be used for longitudinal tensile loading like in a cylinder head, and that in my application the shanks should be a minimum of 1.5 x shank diameter recessed below the surface in a tight hole to minimise shear loading and lateral loading at the thread root.

given that people have been shown to be quite capable destroying even ARP studs in the lower kingpins on the knuckle, i'd be prone to believe him.

Note that on most built an aftermarket Dana 60 knuckles the steering arm is located wth a giant keyed slot to take the load and the bolts only hold the arm down on to the key.

[MogLux]

I rang stock 80 series full time hubs for 6 yrs and the only time i ever broke the mounting studs was when i was doing front digs on the tar out the front of my place with 42s on...

[rockcrawler31]

I rang stock 80 series full time hubs for 6 yrs and the only time i ever broke the mounting studs was when i was doing front digs on the tar out the front of my place with 42s on...

Well lucky you

But for every one of you that says that there's probably a good couple of dozen who have busted them on 35's doing nothing particularly hard.

But i guess you went to mog diffs and all the expense and difficulty associated with that because stock diffs are awesome and never break...........

But back to the OP's question, i've seen the actual drive plates itself put up with some horrible abuse, although for the sake of your warranty on the longfields (if that is what you are running) i'd get aftermarket asap on that alone.

[TheBigBoy]

hmmm I think arp is still easier and just as good.

[want33s]

Thanks for all the info guys...

But back to the OP's question, i've seen the actual drive plates itself put up with some horrible abuse, although for the sake of your warranty on the longfields (if that is what you are running) i'd get aftermarket asap on that alone.

Dirty 30's and I'll find the cash somewhere and get some TG or Longfield drives ASAP.
Thanks.

[MogLux]

I ran stock 80 series full time hubs for 6 yrs and the only time i ever broke the mounting studs was when i was doing front digs on the tar out the front of my place with 42s on...

Well lucky you


But i guess you went to mog diffs and all the expense and difficulty associated with that because stock diffs are awesome and never break...........

.

It wasnt the drive hubs i kept braking it was everything else... The expense to put my mogs under was cheaper than fitting a set of Pootrol diffs under like everyone else normally does .. By the time you buy axles, lockers, chromo cvs for both front and rear, mogs were way cheaper... Dont get me wrong they still break too, i had the front apart twice already due to breakages..

And i agree with you i was lucky not to break studs alot more.. and i to know guys breaking them on 33s-35s quiet easliy.

[rockcrawler31]

By the time you buy axles, lockers, chromo cvs for both front and rear, mogs were way cheaper...

And i agree with you i was lucky not to break studs alot more.. and i to know guys breaking them on 33s-35s quiet easliy.

Never a truer word said. People say to me how can i justify the cost of getting built D60 gear. I say how can you justify NOT getting it.