Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.

SHARKS BODY LIFT

Tech Talk for Nissan owners.

Moderators: toaddog, V8Patrol

Post Reply
Posts: 365
Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2003 1:03 am
Location: Perth

SHARKS BODY LIFT

Post by Shark »

Hey guys just a big THANK YOU for all your help and information!!! Took me 3.5hours to do. Only had to bang the area around the transfer out a little towards the 4l area but basically stuff all. I had to drop the fan shroud two inch's oh and to get the rear bolts i just drilled out some of the body to get to them, no bother really.

Was actually quite easy but what helped the most was all the help and information i got off this site.

CHEERS :D :D
Marc
Posts: 4494
Joined: Mon Nov 25, 2002 9:51 pm
Location: Golden Square

Post by turps »

Good to see another happy camper. It took a mate and I about 2.5hrs and 6pack each.
THOUGHT FOR THE DAY....
God of Magnificant Ideas!
Posts: 6774
Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2003 11:22 am
Location: Balls Deep

Post by V8Patrol »

Gesh ...... sorry mate I totally forgot about the pics u wanted :oops:
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
Posts: 1032
Joined: Mon Mar 17, 2003 10:14 am
Location: Newcastle, NSW

Post by Heathx4 »

Congrats. 3.5hr aint bad at all for your first. As tiresome as it might be, just double check all the things that may have stretched:

- fuel tank filler
- fuel line from tank
- fuel line to engine
- breathers
- steering column, in particular the rubber yoke before the steering box (if you have the rubber yoke)
- air lines
- wiring around firewall
- head light wiring
- towing wiring

That sort of stuff. Be better to pick up dangerous stuff now than have it fail on you on the trail (not that I know or anything :oops: )
* Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool *
Posts: 365
Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2003 1:03 am
Location: Perth

Post by Shark »

Have checked most things around the car and will re-check in a week from now.
What did grab my attention was the way the steering spline seperated once the lift was done. I dont know exactly how to explain it but it seems the steering shaft goes directlty into the steering box with the exception of some sort of unijoint. The spline came out of one side of this unijoint about 10mm but none out of the other side, closer to the steering box.

Would it be possible to loosen those two grub screws off again and try and centralise the ammount of spline on each side ie. 5mm on each side??

I know this sounds awfully confusing but its really hard for me to describe.

Cheers in advance for the information.

Marc
Posts: 3523
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Location: Somewhere they can't reach me, shoot me or electrocute me...

Post by Area54 »

The steering box shaft has a groove around the whole shaft, the bolt on the rag joint runs in this groove, preventing the joint from coming off. The shaft from the steering wheel has a flat ground into it ( so the shaft is D shaped), but not right to the end, this allows some slip in the spline when the bolt is loosened, but as the shaft is not ground all the way to the end, the rag joint will still be retained when the bolt is in place. So you will only be able to extend the steering shaft from this end.
Built, not bought.
Posts: 1032
Joined: Mon Mar 17, 2003 10:14 am
Location: Newcastle, NSW

Post by Heathx4 »

Area54 is right - the two ends of the rag joint will not come off the spline until the grub screws are taken out completely. They should slide a few centimeters on the spline though, with a bit of coaxing with a hammer. Just make sure they slid enough to keep the guide pins on one half of the rag joint in their slots on the other half. Mine were out too far, and the rubber is not enough to hold the joint together by itself.

Actually checked the stretch in my clutch yesterday - I was totally stupid and didn't realise it was hydraulically actuated! I thought it was a cable and lever type like other cars I've owned. Learn something every day, don't you? Now I see where the stretch occurs - at the back of the engine bay (on the firewall) the fluid line comes out of the clutch cylinder and into a brace on the firewall. A tube then runs down to the clutch behind the engine. After the body lift, the brace obviously moves up and the clutch doesn't. Mine was tight, but not terribly so I don't think. I just hammered the brace down a bit to give it a bit of slack.
* Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool *
Posts: 365
Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2003 1:03 am
Location: Perth

Post by Shark »

Thanks for the description it really helped heaps.


Marc
Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests