3b turbo

[hulsty]

I need to make a decent video of mine, you will love the extra torque, here is a reasonably steep climb taking it easy in low 2nd. Recently did a high country trip and I could happilly do most moderate hill climbs in low 3rd and pull from 1200rpm. RE Cooling, what is the current setup? I have the stock BJ74 cooling system with a new radiator and a viscous fan with 2.5 tubes of silicon in it, generally its pretty fine temp wise, does gradually climb to about half on the guage when holding high boost rpm (which is more than you will be running).

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10150178108378780

[shorty_f0rty]

Current cooling is all stock with a fixed fan. It maintains a constant temp at 80-90degc unless really pushing up a long hill then the water temp will climb to about 100degc...

[shorty_f0rty]

Denco Exhaust manifold was picked up today..



Cheers to Ray for getting this in for me too.. thanks man!

[Ricko]

Sweet! Wanna test it on mine first...
I await further results with interest.

[shorty_f0rty]

Sweet! Wanna test it on mine first...
I await further results with interest.

Might be waiting a while before we can drive your rig eh..

Turbo should be here tomorrow or Thursday..

[shorty_f0rty]

Turbo was picked up today ($920 from east coast customs who ordered via MTQ).. initial fit up looks like I need to clock the oil drain pipe..
The Garrett turbo that turned up was a 727264-5001S. Wasn't expecting the S on the end and not sure what that means.




I can confirm t2 gasket and all mating flanges match up so no adapters need to be made to fit turbo to manifold..

[shorty_f0rty]

Just sorting out a shopping list to finish this up for anyone else who has this turbo kit in mind for their 3b...

Turbo Shopping list:
X use existing exhaust manifold gasket
- 4 x 8mm incanol studs + 8mm locknuts (exhaust manifold to turbo) (~$3/each brass studs and nuts)
X use supplied T2 gasket for manifold->turbo
X hope current Airbox to compressor intake rubber hose reaches
X 2-2.5" stepped rubber hose - $30 (compressor out) + 2 x t-bar clamps
X ~9”*2.5” dia crossover pipe - Free
- 90deg 2.5id rubber elbow (crossover pipe to intake) + 2x T-bar clamps
x Oil drain
- Oil drain gasket + bolts (2 x m6x 1.00 - $5 bulk pack)
- Exhaust Flange + bolts (3 x m8 x 1.25 - $5 bulk pack) for dump pipe
- vdo pyro - $380
- t-peice for boost gauge into wastegate line

Things I need to do to fit:
- check oil feed suits gt2052 (m10x1.0 F)
- remove current turbo kit
- clock compressor housing and oil return
- get exhaust fitted (inc bung for pyro post turbo)

[thehanko]

Just sorting out a shopping list to finish this up for anyone else who has this turbo kit in mind for their 3b...

Turbo Shopping list:
X use existing exhaust manifold gasket
- 4 x 8mm incanol studs + 8mm locknuts (exhaust manifold to turbo)
X use supplied T2 gasket for manifold->turbo
X hope current Airbox to compressor intake rubber hose reaches
- 2-2.5" stepped rubber hose (compressor out) + 2 x t-bar clamps
- ~9”*2.5” dia crossover pipe
- 90deg 2.5id rubber elbow (crossover pipe to intake) + 2x T-bar clamps
x Oil drain
- Oil drain gasket + bolts (2 x m6x 1.00)
- Exhaust Flange + bolts (3 x m8 x 1.25) for dump pipe
- vdo pyro
- t-peice for boost gauge into wastegate line

Things I need to do to fit:
- check oil feed suits gt2052 (m10x1.0 F)
- remove current turbo kit
- clock compressor housing and oil return
- get exhaust fitted (inc bung for pyro post turbo)

have you priced up your list?

[shorty_f0rty]

Just sorting out a shopping list to finish this up for anyone else who has this turbo kit in mind for their 3b...

Turbo Shopping list:
X use existing exhaust manifold gasket
- 4 x 8mm incanol studs + 8mm locknuts (exhaust manifold to turbo)
X use supplied T2 gasket for manifold->turbo
X hope current Airbox to compressor intake rubber hose reaches
- 2-2.5" stepped rubber hose (compressor out) + 2 x t-bar clamps
- ~9”*2.5” dia crossover pipe
- 90deg 2.5id rubber elbow (crossover pipe to intake) + 2x T-bar clamps
x Oil drain
- Oil drain gasket + bolts (2 x m6x 1.00)
- Exhaust Flange + bolts (3 x m8 x 1.25) for dump pipe
- vdo pyro
- t-peice for boost gauge into wastegate line

Things I need to do to fit:
- check oil feed suits gt2052 (m10x1.0 F)
- remove current turbo kit
- clock compressor housing and oil return
- get exhaust fitted (inc bung for pyro post turbo)

have you priced up your list?

I'll update with prices as I go along..

[SCANAS]

Should have hit me up for the turbo price through MTQ.

Forget the pyro, set it up properly once and it will be sweet.

[shorty_f0rty]

Should have hit me up for the turbo price through MTQ.

Forget the pyro, set it up properly once and it will be sweet.

No biggy Dan but thanks for the offer, ex tax from MTQ direct was $840.

Want the pyro for tuning and since having one in both vehicles now for a while I have learnt to drive by the pyro. Probably even more important when turboing an older engine with a few kms on it.

[shorty_f0rty]

So after removing the rear diff center in prep for new gears/bearings and seals I had a play with the turbo stuff.
Clocked the turbo so the compressor output and the oil drain were pointing to where they need to be.. .might need another slight adjustment to get a bit more clearance for the 2.5" of pipe over the head to the intake..



had to disco the wastegate so I could rotate the compressor housing all the way around.. will source some longer hose too..

Question: can you T in the boost gauge to that blue hose off the wastegate? If you wanted to use a boost controller there which side would you put the boost guage? Is it worth using a boost controller at all with this setup?

oil drain


and thats about it for tonight..

[RAY185]

Yes you can T your boost gauge into that hose. If you use a boost controller (you will only need one if you want to increase the boost pressure above whatever that waste gate actuator is set to open at) the hose would go turbo compressor housing - boost gauge - boost controller - actuator. The pressure in the hose between boost controller and actuator is being restricted by the controller to keep the waste gate shut till a set pressure is reached so for a true boost reading (for your gauge) you need to tap the hose before the controller.

Do you know what pressure that actuator is set to open at? If you're not sure, google the numbers off the actuator. Pretty sure there is a list somewhere.

Nice work so far. How did you go with a manifold gasket?

[shorty_f0rty]

Cheers for clearing that up for me Ray, I think I've got some hardware around to let me T in the boost gauge so will sort that out. Not sure if I'll use the controller yet or if I'll need it. I think I recall reading somewhere that the actuator opens at 15psi but will try and track that down. Wondering if remounting the actuator bracket when I clocked the compressor housing has the potential to affect this default setting at all as there was a little bit of a stretch to re-bolt it back on and not sure its entirely square..

I got the old manifold off easily enough and the gasket came off in one piece, I used some high temp gasket goo when I installed it previously so the gasket could use a bit of a clean up. Hoping it'll do the job.

[RAY185]

If you mounted the actuator bracket back to the compressor housing bolts again after clocking it (and you have if that's an "after" pic above), it shouldn't have altered anything. There is supposed to be some preload on the rod to start with which is what you felt.

Yeah def check that 15psi. Might be a bit much without an intercooler.

[shorty_f0rty]

Well if my current exhaust gasket is cactus I found a place at salsbury that sells them for $9.10 (inc).. Would just need to get there on tuesday sometime.

Also discovering the hardest part about this build is the dump pipe flange.. if anyone has any ideas please let me know..





Rang MTQ (who supplied the turbo) and they say its a factory part, from the engine the turbo is suited to
Took it into the local exhaust shop that has done work on the 40 before and they had no idea at all (Speedy exhausts everton hills)
Talking to two other exhaust shops, ultimate performance @ brendale and Rob bliss about possible solutions today..

Seems like its a bit of a curve ball ...

[shorty_f0rty]

Have also noticed when attempting to use studs to mount turbo to manifold that all the studs are too long, was there is not enough depth in the manifold to use studs, so what is the alternative?

Are studs the preferred method or are hi tensile bolts sufficient (with suitable spring washers?)

[SCANAS]

I'm sure Rob Bliss will be able to sort you out if you go and see them. They do a lot of custom work and I have used them heaps of times always happy.

[shorty_f0rty]

I'm sure Rob Bliss will be able to sort you out if you go and see them. They do a lot of custom work and I have used them heaps of times always happy.

Yeh talking to Aaron there at the moment over phone/emailing pics and pdf specs across.. fingers crossed they can sort something..

[KiwiBacon]

Flare a piece of exhaust tube, make a round hole flange that slips over it and bolts up to the three holes.

Good to see my turbo selection has gone global.

[shorty_f0rty]

Flare a piece of exhaust tube, make a round hole flange that slips over it and bolts up to the three holes.

Good to see my turbo selection has gone global.

Thanks for the help i'm sure there is and will be a heap of 3B owners out there with you to thank for a budget turbo option.

Do you know by chance what the actuator pressure is set to from the factory? I haven't been able to find it anywhere yet.

[KiwiBacon]

Cheers, I don't know what the stock setting for the wastegate is, but it probably changes a little when you clock the turbo. Most guys are running under 10psi.

[RED60]

Flare a piece of exhaust tube, make a round hole flange that slips over it and bolts up to the three holes.

Good to see my turbo selection has gone global.

I agree with KB.... IF you can get it double flared (ie the piece of the exhaust that fits over the coned turbo outlet is flared and bent back on itself, so it's double thickness) it may be a little tougher... tho this part of the exhaust sustem is rarely first to fail..

and one for shorty forty... do you know if the exhaust manifold is Australian made.... if not, where if you know.......

[shorty_f0rty]

Flare a piece of exhaust tube, make a round hole flange that slips over it and bolts up to the three holes.

Good to see my turbo selection has gone global.

I agree with KB.... IF you can get it double flared (ie the piece of the exhaust that fits over the coned turbo outlet is flared and bent back on itself, so it's double thickness) it may be a little tougher... tho this part of the exhaust sustem is rarely first to fail..

and one for shorty forty... do you know if the exhaust manifold is Australian made.... if not, where if you know.......

Hmm.. double flared eh? Well I'm a bit short on time but I will mention it and see if it can be incorporated into whats done. I'm taking the turbo into Rob Bliss tomorrow for them to hopefully make a template whats there in prep for a dump pipe install on friday. and so I can install it on Wednesday.

I'll grab the name off the box for you tomorrow as it wasn't branded 'denco' as I thought.
*EDIT*: box has BorgWarner, http://www.turbodriven.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and Schwitzer all over it, appears original packing sticker says Country of Origin: GT Britian - Turbo Kit S1BG. Turbolader - Schwitzer. Hope this helps!

[KiwiBacon]

Just one other thing to check. Your turbo has a round entry and your manifold has a square exit. It may pay to put a plate in there with a nicer transition.

[shorty_f0rty]

Just one other thing to check. Your turbo has a round entry and your manifold has a square exit. It may pay to put a plate in there with a nicer transition.

That was a consideration but the thought was that due to it not being a performance vehicle it wasn't a big deal... do you think it'll have a noticable impact on performance?

In other news, dropped off the turbo to Aaron at Rob Bliss and he's been able to find a suitable flange to modify for the dump pipe.

Found some flexible ducting for airbox to turbo intake and got a heap of T-bolt clamps to suit.

Got some flanged nuts for studs (had figured out that the short end of the stud goes into the manifold after talking to Aaron this morning).

Still trying to find a gasket for the oil drain.. how important is this? Is it ok to do a thin film of gasket goo here very carefully as not to contaminate the oil galleries, etc? Or can I get away without using any gasket here as its not under pressure?

Apart from fitting a VDO pyro and the oil return hose thats about it.

[shorty_f0rty]

YAAY! Aaron at Rob Bliss found a flange, all it needed was some die grinding on the holes to match the turbo.. exhaust is booked in for friday morning!

Just need to find a m10x1.00 to 6-JIC fitting now for the oil feed..

[shorty_f0rty]

Just need to find a m10x1.00 to 6-JIC fitting now for the oil feed..

I found one from extreme motorsports but when I tested it at home it appears I need a m10x1.0 to -8 JIC/AN fitting.. So i'll be back there tomorrow to get the right sized.

Today I spent most of my time on the front diff getting the old open diff out and new air locker diff in. bit of a struggle on your own having to manouvre the diff so the copper airline doesn't get damaged (I found this out after getting it installed the first time, everything torqued up and the diff would catch on the copper line. I had it in/out about 4 times to make sure it was all good. Just really hoping I haven't created an air leak in that cooper line.

Anyway got to spend a bit of time on the turbo afterwards much to the wifes disgust.

Manifold and new gasket is mounted and torqued up, turbo is mounted with the gasket and whiz-lock nuts. locktite for all studs,bolts and nuts. Had to source a few more stepped silicon hoses for inlet. Got some flexible ducting from Tony Powell to do airbox to turbo intake as well as a fist full of t-bolt clamps. Got some 6mm silicon hose to extended the wastegate line as well as a T peice for the boost gauge.

Tomorrow AM I hope to chop up the pipe I have for the cross over pipe, get the proper sized oil feed adapter and get it all hooked up tomorrow night for a spin around the block before exhaust gets fitted on friday.

[shorty_f0rty]

Oh also picked up a VDO pyro on tuesday. I noticed it comes with 5 metres of wire from the sender to the gauge. I have seen a few comments online saying you can't shorten it.. is this the case on the VDO guages too?

[shorty_f0rty]

Cheers, I don't know what the stock setting for the wastegate is, but it probably changes a little when you clock the turbo. Most guys are running under 10psi.

Keith aka Diesel42 off ih8mud reckons stock setting is 14-15psi.