1HD-FT into 80 Series

[+dj_hansen+]

I run one of Graeme's turbos... and its silky smooth.

More out of curiosity... but what makes these engines "structurally suitable for > 700nm and plenty of boost"?

[RED60]

I run one of Graeme's turbos... and its silky smooth.

More out of curiosity... but what makes these engines "structurally suitable for > 700nm and plenty of boost"?

I would think in general terms, they have internals strong enough to take the increased torque and probably an injector pump that you can modify/adjust enough to take advantage of the increased boost... Greame would be able to be more specific I'm sure....

[+dj_hansen+]

Im more looking for specifics...

For instance, main bearings are held in by a cradle, not caps. There has also been some talk of valve float at higher boost pressure, but has anyone actually ever come across this on a 1HZ/1HDT/1HDFT/1HDFTE. And things like flow testing on Airboxes, manifolds, heads etc.

[shortyq]

am led to believe the pet and diesel engines have dif eng mount locations!

[shortyq]

I run one of Graeme's turbos... and its silky smooth.

More out of curiosity... but what makes these engines "structurally suitable for > 700nm and plenty of boost"?

I would think in general terms, they have internals strong enough to take the increased torque and probably an injector pump that you can modify/adjust enough to take advantage of the increased boost... Greame would be able to be more specific I'm sure....

the only major being the turbo engines have the drain back into the block,plus the pump calibration!

[+dj_hansen+]

How does a drain in the block and a injector pump make it structurally suitable for 700nm at the fly/wheels? Thats double the factory rating.

A 2L-t has those.

A bit of research to suggest a 1HDFTE is not just a 1HDFT with electric pump timing.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/91617104/1hd-Fte-Engine" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[58bernie]

Good question Dan,
I don't think Toyota would have written a spec for 700Nm maybe the some have tried to go beyond the 700 and found they break so, 700 has been called the working limit.

As far as I knew the FTE had a different piston crown and electronic controlled injection timing and differences to the CT26 turbo vanes as Toyota was trying to meet emissions standards.

All the HZ turbo engines ( T,FT & FTE ) had an oil spray directed under each piston for an extra bit of lube.

[+dj_hansen+]

Good question Dan,
I don't think Toyota would have written a spec for 700Nm maybe the some have tried to go beyond the 700 and found they break so, 700 has been called the working limit.

As far as I knew the FTE had a different piston crown and electronic controlled injection timing and differences to the CT26 turbo vanes as Toyota was trying to meet emissions standards.

All the HZ turbo engines ( T,FT & FTE ) had an oil spray directed under each piston for an extra bit of lube.

Sorry Bernie, but for the sake of maintaining correct information... you mean the all the 1HD* engines, and from what I see/read the Oil squirters are there for cooling, not lubrication.

[Moonshine]

well i suppose if toyota wanted to build a engine for the outback that can provide farmers with power and ultra reliability they could run forged internals, chromoly rings, 4 bolt mains etc etc but unless you have a 1HZ engine and 1HD-FTE block side by side and pull them down and check everything individually then no real way......could go through parts manuals and see if the part numbers are the same then if not find out what the difference is lol

[58bernie]

Good question Dan,
I don't think Toyota would have written a spec for 700Nm maybe the some have tried to go beyond the 700 and found they break so, 700 has been called the working limit.

As far as I knew the FTE had a different piston crown and electronic controlled injection timing and differences to the CT26 turbo vanes as Toyota was trying to meet emissions standards.

All the HZ turbo engines ( T,FT & FTE ) had an oil spray directed under each piston for an extra bit of lube.

Sorry Bernie, but for the sake of maintaining correct information... you mean the all the 1HD* engines, and from what I see/read the Oil squirters are there for cooling, not lubrication.

No worries there Dan, I stand corrected,
Yes, the under piston oil jets (commonly called oil squirters) are for cooling by removing heat from under the pistons and for the sake of maintaining correct information, I will in future only refer to the turbo variant of the 1HZ engine as the 1HD-T, 1HD-FT or the 1HD-FTE.

[58bernie]

well i suppose if toyota wanted to build a engine for the outback that can provide farmers with power and ultra reliability they could run forged internals, chromoly rings, 4 bolt mains etc etc

They are tough enough already, I push 22 psi of boost into my 1HD-FT

[80's_delirious]

well i suppose if toyota wanted to build a engine for the outback that can provide farmers with power and ultra reliability they could run forged internals, chromoly rings, 4 bolt mains etc etc

Ever had one apart?

1HZ, 1HD series engines already have a full crank cradle for the main caps (lower section of block), conrods are beefy, gudgeon pins are beefy, pistons are beefy, there is not much in them that's not built like a brick shithouse!

[Moonshine]

well i suppose if toyota wanted to build a engine for the outback that can provide farmers with power and ultra reliability they could run forged internals, chromoly rings, 4 bolt mains etc etc

Ever had one apart?

1HZ, 1HD series engines already have a full crank cradle for the main caps (lower section of block), conrods are beefy, gudgeon pins are beefy, pistons are beefy, there is not much in them that's not built like a brick shithouse!

no ive never had one apart, i was just guessing what toyota could be running in it to make them "bullet proof"

[CustomTurbos]

Toyota builds for 500kkm, its part of the Toyota ethos, thats the secret.

Its the same with engines such as the 2JZ-GTE. These have made as much as 950hp at the wheels (dyno queen) on a stock bottom end unopened. Thats quite incredible. Compare that to the much coveted RB26-DETT which gets block distortion above 450whp (so I have been told).

The marinised engines use identical block, cranks and rods. The pistons are different; the compression is lower. They run 30psi and make 740nm/232kW "short term power" which is Marine terms is full power for a few minutes. Long term power is closer to 210kW. These values are thermal limtations, not mechanical. In a vehicle, we have far lower cooling ability, far less efficient intercoolers but we will never be at full power for long. I most certainly do not reccomend having high boost, high egts due to an overly agressive tune and hold 3000rpm+ foot to floor for long time periods. On the other hand, at 2000rpm I am OK with that (if the EGT pre turbo is ~ 750C). The engine is at a better area of operation efficiency wise, the overall heat required to be dissapated by the pistons and block and head is significantly lower. I tow under these conditions often.

In a nutshell, mechanically the engine is bulletproof, I wouldnt be afraid of a breakage at 900nm on my own engine so long as turbo is well matched etc and Im not on the gas for long. Theramally you should do what you can to let the engine breath and have efficient intercooling, as this combined with a good turbo really helps the engine maintain a high performance level for a longer life. The water temp gauge is the best device for monitoring safety along with either an AFR meter (if you know what you are doing) or a quick response EGT gauge.

There are no structural differences in crank, rods, main bearing girdle etc between the 1HZ and the turbo engines. The FTE pistons have enhanced crown cooling - on all the turbo engines, the pistons have a channel that the oil squirters fire oil into.

Has anyone summarised these engines?


1HDFT - std 82 rear wheel kW (rwKw)

Out of the box, the 1HD-FT has the highest potential. One of the few older style DI diesel engines that really love to rev. Any owner will testify to this:

- 15% better airflow and improved swirl for cleaner combustion (or run lower AFR's before smoke)
- Injection pump that while a 12mm head like the 1HDT pump, has a more aggressive cam profile for quicker injection rates
- Centrally located injector for more even heat distribution in piston
- more agressive exhaust camshaft profile (than the 1HDFTE)
- largest intake plenum (c/w 1HZ and 1HDT)
- full main bearing crank girdle
- oil cooled pistons (improved from 1HDT)
- Awesome engine that combines fuel economy and power
- jury is out on maxpower, but on stock injectors its around the 170rwKw mark. High flow injectors and 35psi... watch out

1HDT - std 77 rear wheel kW (rwKw)

Out of the box, BE bearing issues aside it has the potential to be the most reliable and same economy as the 1HDFT. Suffers from lousy inlet manifold.

- torque within 5% of the 1HDFT std and when modified
- bulletproof valvetrain - doesnt flow as well as FT (down 15% up top) but it never breaks. Could easily pull 6000rpm. Not that its actually needed since it cant make much power way up there
- 12mm head injection pump
- cheap to buy compared to 1HDFT
- easy to mod the inlet manifold due to injector lines running under maniold (FT owners blessed with better flow cant do this as injector lines run over top of manifold, but their plenum is bigger already....)
- Bargain for 150rwKw. Add an eBay FMIC and a Gturbo Grunter 2 = >150rwKw. No need to change anything else on engine!!
- jury is out on maxpower, but on stock injectors its around the 160-170rwKw mark. High flow injectors and 35psi... watch out (....for FT owners, because they will drive past you at above 2400rpm if you dont make it breath with some port clean up and inlet plenum mod)


1HZ - std 45 rear wheel kW (rwKw)

Asthmatic std, they go well turbocharged. After some mods, reliable 120kW @ wheels on stock inj pump

- IDI lowers economy by 10-20% (typically the later since IDI injectors need replacement every 100kkm)
- late model 1HZ's got an injector pump (10mm head) with an aneroid (used for altitude compensation) and electronic controlled timing - so these inj pumps are ideal for big power converted to 12mm and used on any of these engines for big power and economy (used in conjunction with a capable tuner).
- same strength bottom end as turbos except for pistons (and rods). This can no be rectified cheaply (call SMS Diesel)
- can run lower air fuel ratios than the 1HDT/1HDFT providing some head cooling mods are done (steam bleeds).
- head flow similar to 1HDFT due to tumble port design (1HDT is swirl, FT has both), except same rubbish inlet manifold as 1HDT
- better high speed combustion than the 1HDT or 1HDFT plus a high speed valve train :-)
- In theory, lots of power potential here to nearly 5k - stock inj pump max and not intercooled ~83rwKw stock inj pump max and intercooled ~110-130rwKw, 11mm pump ~ 150-170rwKw, 12mm pump ~160-210rwKw. Its debateable what the stock pistons can handle. I would try 120kW so long as intercooler is great (50deg C intake temps and 19psi). Otherwise, and its by far my preference, to fit upgraded pistons and steam bleeds in head, increased intake plenum volume

[Shadow]

Hi CustomTurbos

i have a HDJ100r with 1HDFTE

How do you get around the over-boost fuel cut on the 1hdfte?

I have attempted to raise the boost but I cannot increase it even 1psi or the engine goes into fuel cut.

[CustomTurbos]

Hi CustomTurbos

i have a HDJ100r with 1HDFTE

How do you get around the over-boost fuel cut on the 1hdfte?

I have attempted to raise the boost but I cannot increase it even 1psi or the engine goes into fuel cut.

You must stop the ecu seeing 4v. You can do this electroncially or via pressure bleed to the sensor. When I tune these engines I like to do it electronically, because they are 25psi sensors and I like to program the fuel all the way to 25psi. Dont do that on a stock turbo though.

[Shadow]

Hi CustomTurbos

i have a HDJ100r with 1HDFTE

How do you get around the over-boost fuel cut on the 1hdfte?

I have attempted to raise the boost but I cannot increase it even 1psi or the engine goes into fuel cut.

You must stop the ecu seeing 4v. You can do this electroncially or via pressure bleed to the sensor. When I tune these engines I like to do it electronically, because they are 25psi sensors and I like to program the fuel all the way to 25psi. Dont do that on a stock turbo though.

so say you put a diode inline to drop the voltage 0.7volt, would this allow me to increase the boost to say 20psi? (not that i would without a new turbo though)

is the pressure sensor in the crossover pipe ontop of the engine?

i have a 3" mandrel exhaust, what else would i need to do to get the full benefit of one of your turbo's?

[CustomTurbos]

It's not the way that I do it (diode) but it will probably work well and give you what you want. Im always available to take a call, or at least will call back. I even have to do this with dealers.... Raising the boost alone on an FTE will do nothing for you if you are that close to boost cut. In fact, you will loose marginally some power since your lean enough already.

As a plug and play, the easiest (5 minute install) and best experience I have had is with the $650 "chipexpress" chip. It has 7 settings and is fuel only, but its cleverly done and seems to protect the auto box well. My turbo, 3" exhaust (better intercooler, no EGR and 22-4psi at max chip setting will make your 100 fly - really fly. Like the front end slides sideways when you accelerate off the mark on bitumen (5spd auto) kind of fly...

I had this chip on mine (since sold it and run a Unichip which gives me alot of options and timing control, but I am still shocked at how good a job that chip does) and the car I installed it on smoked quite a bit even on position 4 (stock), we had to back it off to position 3... I was at 7 on mine and did smoke a bit, but very acceptable.

Hi CustomTurbos

i have a HDJ100r with 1HDFTE

How do you get around the over-boost fuel cut on the 1hdfte?

I have attempted to raise the boost but I cannot increase it even 1psi or the engine goes into fuel cut.

You must stop the ecu seeing 4v. You can do this electroncially or via pressure bleed to the sensor. When I tune these engines I like to do it electronically, because they are 25psi sensors and I like to program the fuel all the way to 25psi. Dont do that on a stock turbo though.

so say you put a diode inline to drop the voltage 0.7volt, would this allow me to increase the boost to say 20psi? (not that i would without a new turbo though)

is the pressure sensor in the crossover pipe ontop of the engine?

i have a 3" mandrel exhaust, what else would i need to do to get the full benefit of one of your turbo's?